International Mountain Guides ( Everest 2002 Expedition

IMG Everest 2002 Dispatch 7 - May 6 2002 Camp 4 established, now the rubber hits the road

All of our members are now at BC resting after successfully sleeping at Camp 3.  In a few days they will begin heading back up for the first summit bids.  It is rapidly coming to the moment everyone has been dreaming about for a long time…when the rubber hits the road and all the planning and preparation pays off…hopefully.  This is an exciting time for all of us and a nerve-wracking time too. 

On May 4 nearly 100 Sherpas from many teams reached the South Col. For the IMG group, this meant that all 16 of our climbing Sherpas successfully made it up. Today (May 6) seven of our Sherpas went to the Col for a second time, and tomorrow the remaining eight (one came down to BC today) are scheduled to go a second time as well.  This will come close to putting us in position for summit bids.  For the summit bid, we need to get three bottles of O2 to the Col for every member, and two for each Sherpa.  Additionally, we are sending food, fuel, fixed rope, tents, bags, pads, stoves, etc to the Camp 4 site. 

The SPCC (Sagarmartha Pollution Control  Committee) has responded to the complaints received from several expedition teams about the condition of the Icefall route.  Today Mr. R.C. Karki came to Base Camp from the SPCC office in Namche.  He is going to stay here at BC for a few days to get the Icefall Sherpas back on track.  To assist with this task the SPCC has hired another Icefall Sherpa to help, in this case Mr. Ang Nima from Dingboche, who has worked on the Icefall in past years and is experienced at building anchors, setting ladders, etc. Safety is the number one priority in this dangerous part of the mountain, so it is important that the job is well done.

We are hoping that the condition of the Icefall route will improve now that there is some accountability and direction attributed to the Icefall Sherpas and we would like to thank the SPCC for responding to our concerns and acting to improve the situation.  The SPCC is a good organization that has supported many projects in the Khumbu to reduce pollution.  We would like to see them be successful at administering the Icefall and generating income that can be used to support their other worthwhile activities.

Eric Simonson

Expedition Leader


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