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 May 16-20th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit Everest News Sponsor page !

Daily News: 5/20/99 Report 12:41 PM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: It started snowing heavily on the way down from the summit for the three climbers on the Polish expedition, Joao Garcia and Pascal Debrouwer. It has been reported to Everest News that the climbers reached the Summit much earlier than the two climbers from the American expedition the day earlier and in a much shorter time. The Americans encountered an afternoon storm on the way down and only arrived back at Camp 6 after other members of their expedition when up to meet them with supplies and tea. The American arrived back in darkness. They are lucky to be alive. Details of the 5 climbers, Jacek Maselko, Ryszard Pawlowski, Tadeusz Kudelski, Joao Garcia, and Pascal Debrouwer, are still coming in. Everest News has been told, two of the climbers made it back to high camp on the night of their Summit. Our friends at Risk will update their site with a report from Skripko detailing some activities, including the apparent rescue of the Ryszard Pawlowski (three summit of Everest, and known as one of the leading H.A. climbers in the world). It has been reported to Everest News that assistance has been by apparently by sherpas from the Polish expedition, sherpas and possibly other members of the International Expedition organized by Asian-Trekking. Details of this and other details are not confirmed. Therefore Everest News will say no more for now, except rescue efforts are underway, and we still have hope for all the climbers. Our prayers are with them and their families.
  • This is the fourth time this year that an afternoon storm has come without warning. The best forecasts are being used. But the risk is high. The weather on Everest at 8,000 meters can and does change without notice. It changed on the Ukranians, the OTT expedition on the South, the Americans, and now of five more climbers from two different expeditions on the north. It has changed in the past on some of the greatest climbers in the world, some have made it home others have not. Other expeditions are moving up in place for their attempts at the Summit. We would like to say the efforts of the Georgians and some members of the International expedition and their sherpas including Appa  continue to be of  the highest in assisting other expeditions as reported to us. These climbers are getting no press, writing no reports, getting no fame, but are putting their lives on the line for others. Therefore, we say, Thank YOU.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side:  As You know, Michael Matthews, aged 22, was lost and is presumed dead while descending from the summit of Mount Everest on the afternoon of 13th May 1999. Michael's family wishes to recover the body of their son without others taking actions that might endanger themselves. This information has been in the UK media, but Everest News has not reported it. Everest News has been in contact with the family, and  doing what small part we can to help them in their efforts. OTT's sherpas have been searching the mountain and other climbers has been asked to look for evidence of Michael. OTT has 22 sherpas working to find him. Jon Tinker has flown back to Nepal to lead the efforts.
  • A ice axe has been found which might be Mike's about 100 meters above the Balcony. So there is some hope. Michael Matthews' equipment and clothing: Grivel Mont Blanc ice axe - silver color - may be taped at the handle on the T part, North Face Himalayan down suit - one piece - red with black patches, Size 11 or 11 and a half yellow one sport boots, Either Grivel Rambos or Grivel 2Fs - both pairs had extension plates as he had large feet, Gloves - North Face Himalayan mitts, black, large, North Face Alpine Light 70 liter rucksack, red back with yellow ripstop cross pattern, North Face hat - either a blue and black one or a red one. He had Oakley Iridium goggles and was carrying a Canon Ixus camera.
  • We publish this information with the blessing and request of the family. The family hopes to find their son this spring but also knows that might not happen. Therefore, their hope is that maybe another Everest climber will find his body this Autumn or later, so they can bring him down. If you are going to Everest in the fall and we have not spoken with you, please contact us at everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • Everest News feature books: Everest : The History of the Himalayan Giant  by Roberto Mantovani, Roberto Montovani, Kurt Diemberger, William Fortney (Translator) Hardcover - 144 pages (October 1997) Mountaineers Books;
  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books;
  • Check out the Bookstore !
  • What is next ? 1999 K2

Daily News: 5/19/99 Report 9:44 AM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Portuguese climber Joao Garcia (becoming the first Portuguese climber to Summit Everest) and Pascal Debrouwer summited Everest on May 18th ! Both Summits were without the use of bottled oxygen.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side:  The Summit of American Charles Corfield has been confirmed by our friends at HIMALAYA Center in Kathmandu. Three Sherpa Climbers  Nima Tashi Sherpa, Da Sona Sherpa, and Chhewang Nima Sherpa, also climbed the summit of Everest on May 18 at 1300 hrs. They had started climbing from the Camp IV (South Col) on 17th May 10 pm.
  • Cho Oyu Spring 99: America Expedition page has been updated with another dispatch.
  • Numerous Summits are reported on the North Side to Everest News. Everest News will bring them to You as we attempt to confirm them.
  • Everest News feature books: Everest : The History of the Himalayan Giant  by Roberto Mantovani, Roberto Montovani, Kurt Diemberger, William Fortney (Translator) Hardcover - 144 pages (October 1997) Mountaineers Books;
  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books;
  • Check out the Bookstore !

NEWSFLASH: 5/19/99 Report 9:08 AM EST

  • Joao Garcia and Pascal Debrouwer summited Everest on May 18th !

NEWSFLASH: 5/18/99 Report 4:40 PM EST

  • Makalu Summits: Michael G. Groom (1959), Mountain Guide from Coorarad Qld., Australia and David Bridges (1970), Mountain Guide from Colorado, USA both of the Australian American Makalu Expedition successfully climbed 8,463 meter high Mt. Makalu I on May 16th 1999 from North West Ridge.  It is also reported that the team is returning to Kathmandu on 28th May 1999. This ten member expedition was led by Mr. Matthew John Rolfe (1968) from Bulimba, Australia.
  • Makalu: Andrew Georges, 1953, Mountain Guide of Les Haudres, Switzerland climbed Makalu I (8,463) from North West Ridge on 13th May. He reached the summit at 1400 hrs. This 8 member H.G. Makalu International Expedition of UK was led by Michael Jorgensen.
  • Manaslu: Saxon Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu (8163 m.),  Gotz Wiegand,  Merkus Walter, Dieter Rulker, Reinhard Mittag, Volker Tiller, Jorg Steingel, all from Germany. The team have all returned to Kathmandu today, the 18th May 1999.

    Earlier, two member of this team had also climbed Dhaulagiri I on 4th May, after climbing Manaslu on 21st April.

    Compiled by HIMALAYA Center, Kathmandu, May 18, 1999

Daily News: 5/18/99 Report 9:49 AM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency, Success! American Jacek Maselko, Ryszard Pawlowski, Tadek Kudelskiare on the summit of Mt. Everest! The Patagonia Mountain Agency Team made the summit via the North face of Everest at 1:45 PM in good weather. Half the climb still lies ahead as the team now descends to Camp III.  So more than likely Jacek, Rsyzard and Tadek will be sleeping tonight at Camp III -- 8,300 meters -- and then coming down. Check their site for all the details: Patagonia Mountain Agency.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: More Summits news from Nepal to Everest News indicates American Charles Corfield has finally reached the Summit. Charles, as most of you know, has attempted Everest several times. Along with Charles was one or more Sherpa climbers.  The news is unconfirmed from the Min. Of Tourism, but received by Everest News from two reliable sources. The expedition leader Pete Athans, reached the Summit earlier this year and was not with Charles. Good job Charles !

Update: See Questioned Summits on Everest

  • Matt Dickinson Part One Q&A is posted here.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: We talked with Willie Benegas from OTT Expeditions on the phone again last night. Willie was very high on the efforts of American Joby Ogwyn. Willie said he and Joby took turns breaking the path to the Summit on Everest. He said Willie would go for 15 minutes breaking the trail for other climbers, then Joby would take 15 minutes. This is not something one would expect from a young first time Everest climber. He said Joby was a very strong climber. Willie, a very strong climber himself and member of the North Face team, knows a strong climber when he sees one. He said the snow was very deep.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: Graham Ratcliffe arrived home in Newcastle safe and well last night - he was even showing off his frostbite at the airport. He will be speaking to the BBC and doing a live TV interview this afternoon. So tune in to the BBC if you can. His website is also updated with the latest audio and pictures. So keep checking them out: Graham Ratcliffe, who will be reporting for the BBC
  • Nuptse: Peter Athans (1957), Mountain Guide from Boulder, Colorado USA, Leader of 12 member 1999 American Nuptse Expedition has reached the Summit of 7,855 meter high Mt. Nuptse at 1135 hrs, today on 18 May 1999.

    He had started the climb earlier at 0530 hrs from Camp III.

    Source: Himalaya Center

  • Look for a NEWSFLASH This AFTERNOON EST US TIME WITH MORE SUMMITS.

NEWSFLASH: 5/17/99 Report 10:40 PM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side:  The PMA Team One of Jacek, Ryszard and Tadek are headed for the Summit. They left at around 3:00 am Tibet time. They are reporting the weather as good. Check their site for all the details: Patagonia Mountain Agency.
  • No Everest News does not know yet, who all besides the Americans has attempted in the last two days. But the news will come out...

Daily News: 5/17/99 Report 11:49 AM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency: Reported at 9:35 AM in Tibet, This is Eric Brown for Patagonia Mountain Agency with a quick update. Today is May 17th, Monday morning. The weather right now is nice --  calm winds up high which is what we want. Team One -- which is Jacek, Ryszard, Tadek -- is moving up to Camp III. Camp III is at 8,300 meters. Team II -- Omar and Ian -- are moving up as we speak to Camp II at 7,600 meters. Last night Jacek and Ryszard had to put up a new tent at Camp II because the wind had destroyed the one tent that was there. Jacek commented many tents at Camp II had been ripped up by the winds. Team Three (3) is leaving as I speak for North Col, and that's Barbara and Masadu. Right now the Americans [Expedition] are at the Second Step, which is above 8,600 meters, and still have 2 to 3 hours to go if they choose to continue to the summit. As I said, tonight Team One is at Camp III and will be waking between 2 and 4AM tomorrow morning to start their summit bid. So I will be updating you soon. Check their site for more details: Patagonia Mountain Agency. The weather in his full report become party cloudy with little snow showers.
  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Everest News does not know who all is up their right now. Several expeditions are reported at high camps. Communications for the most part continue to be a mess except for calls out... It is night in Tibet, so we will know more in the morning. Weather forecast was good, but the weather forecast has not very very good this year.... We have confirmed Appa Sherpa (or Apa), who has reached the Summit of Everest nine times, is working for Asian-Trekking on their huge North Side expedition. For more on the Ukranian climber please check yesterday's report from Patagonia Mountain Agency.
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: One item of interesting note:  It was reported that some of OTT tents at Camp 2 were lost. Another report said all the tents were lost. Actually Everest News has learned that all the OTT tents were put flat on the ground by the sherpas because of the high winds to keep them from blowing away. Another issue solved.
  • Mt. Nuptse: Two climbers and one Nepalese Sherpa of reached the Summit of Mt. Nuptse (7,855m.) on 17th May 1999 at 1505 hrs from the Western CWM (North East Face).

    They had started climbing from Camp III Western CWM at 0730 hrs. The Summit of Nuptse was cloudy and snow falling in the afternoon. They returned to Camp III same day evening, safely.

    Jeff Rhodes, from Idaho (USA), Andy Lapkis (Henry Todd's lead guide, Mountain Guide of Colorado USA) and Mr. Gyalzen Sherpa, 37 age, Tamakhani, Solukhumbu are the summitters of Nuptse today, the 17th, May 1999.

    Mr. Peter Athans and one more climber member will attempt the summit tomorrow, 18 May 1999.

    Compiled by HIMALAYA Center, Kathmandu, May 17, 1999

Daily News: 5/16/99 Report 2:04 PM EST

  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: Where to start ?
  • Everest Spring 99 South Side:  It is Official, Lev Sarkisov (2/12/38) is the oldest man to summit Everest . He climbed Everest on May 12th in the morning and stayed at the summit for 1 hour. He descended to the South Col at 1600 hrs. on the same day. He was part of the Caucasus Everest Expedition 1999 organized by Asian-Trekking.

    Lev Sarkisov is one of those very strong climbers few know about in the US that we love to report on. Lev Sarkisov, started to climb in 1962. Hopefully, many of you know from the RISK web site, that in former USSR and Russia mountain climbing is a sport with championships and cups. In his 37 years of climbing Lev received all existing champion titles according to our sources. He reached all 7 000 m peaks in former USSR and got the title of Ounce of snow, a very famous title in Russia. In his climbing he always had priority of reaching technically hardest routes. A lot of first ascents and first passing in mountains of Caucasus, Pamir and Tyan-Shan.

    Since 1975 until 1991, he was a coach of Caucasus club. All Georgian climbers trying to reach this spring summit from the both sides of Everest was his pupils at one time or another.

    Presently Lev is member of Alpindustria club. He is doing high-altitude guiding jobs not just because to keep him self in climbing shape  but also to support his family.

    The last few years he climbed Pick of Victory (Pobeda) in Pamir, McKinley and support climbing of Mt. Kazbeck (5047 m) with 5 handicaps young men.

    Do to the week economy conditions in Georgia, this was his first attempt to climb a Himalayan mountain.

    Lev is an ethnic Armenian from Georgia, who has become the oldest person to summit Everest beating the record of Spaniard Ramon Blanco who reached the summit when he was 60 years, 160 days old in 1993. Congratulations to Lev and his family !

  • Enrique Guallart-Furio http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ developed a very bad cold that was reported to Everest News to be pneumonia. Enrique was to be evacuated from BC.... It is unclear to us if Enrique ever got to make a summit attempt from Camp 4 ... This is second time the flu has gotten Enrique. In 1997 Enrique was part of a high profile expedition and did not get to attempt the Summit due to the flu.
  • OTT Expeditions: Summit News: Michael Smith (UK), Martin Doyle (UK), Katja Koomen Staartes (Dutch), David Rodney (of Alberta, Canada), Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (6th time), Kami Rita Sherpa, Nima Gyaltsen Sherpa, Tshiring Dorjee Sherpa, Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Janhul Sherpa, Mr. Christopher Brown  (UK), Michael Matthews (from the UK, see 5/15/99 report), all reached the Summit of Everest on 5/13/99.
  • Michael Smith has significant frostbite injuries and was to be evacuated from BC.

  • Mrs. Katja Koomen Staartes (1963) a Dutch lady of La Abit France is the first ever woman Everest Summitter from Netherlands.

  • Two additional climbers reached the Summit on 5/13/99. Their names have been withheld per their request. The climbers are in BC and planning on departing. These two climbers requested from the beginning of the climb that they be given no press and their names not to be released. Everest News has granted their request and has not reported on these two climbers. We will soon request to release their information.

  • Mt. Kanchenjunga: Park Young Seok (1963), Korean of Donggok University Expedition 1999 summitted Mt. Kanchenjunga on the 12th May 1999.

    Jangmu Sherpa & Shangey Sherpa also summitted Kanchenjunga on the same day. Source: HIMALAYA Center, Kathmandu, May 16, 1999

  • Everest News appears to have out grown it Daily News format as we expected we might during this Everest season. Look for changes after Everest is complete. Rather than list all of the summits of the 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal, the staff has updated the expeditions page with the summits. We probably have a few more to add. Let us know what we have missed: everestnews2004@adelphia.net

  • Czech Lhotse Expedition: It is confirmed, five Czech climbers reached the summit of the Lhotse! Three of them (Josef Simunek - expedition leader, Sona Vomackova, and  Lhakpa Dorjee Sherpa) reached the summit on May 12th at 14:00. The other two climbers Zdenek Hruby and Josef Pepino Moravek reached the summit on May 13th. On May 14th they all were at Camp 1 at 6100 m (The weather was very bad, snow storm). Best regards, Jana Hanzlikova.

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: The climbers appear to be on the move again. Check the last two updates from Patagonia Mountain Agency. The staff will attempt to summarize the North Side in the next few days... EverestNews.com feature books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest   by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt   ( Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999)  St Martins. Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore Page in the last few weeks.

  • Matt Dickinson Part One Q&A should be posted next week.

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