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 June 11-20th, 1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit Everest News Sponsor page !

Daily News: 6/20/99 Report

  • On the Serious and Lighter Side: The next few weeks at EverestNews.com appears like they will be some of the most serious days here so far as "Summits are Questioned". Therefore, today seems like a good day to tell You about a Cyber Game, EverestNews.com agreed to help with. The Game is  http://www.lycos.com/cybersurfari/home.htm. As we understand it, you have to go find "items" on different web sites on the web with only a little clue. We don't "know" the people at cybersurfari well, but they seem nice, and it sounds like a good cause. As You know, we like good causes. Check them out, as always read the rules, look both ways, be careful, and have fun ! All of you should find the EverestNews.com clue easy (assuming you have been reading carefully !).
  • Have a great Sunday !
  • Featured Books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover.
  • Into Thin Air; The Illustrated Edition  Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998

  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books

Daily News: 6/19/99 Report

  • Montagnes du Monde goes on without Pascal Debrouwer. Montagnes du Mond is going to Manaslu this autumn. If well, Joao Garcia will manage the organization.  We know Pascal would be proud and would want it this way. Good luck !.

    More information on Montagnes du Monde can be found on the classified pages and the Joao Garcia pages.

    The agency Montagnes du Monde contact information is Montagnes du Monde -  Chemin du Parc, 161  B-5377 Hogne Tel/Fax : +32 (0)84 321602  m.d.m@skynet.be RCD 45494  TVA 688428202  GB 250-0107920-44 En collaboration avec Latitudes Lic A1764

Daily News: 6/18/99 Report

  • 1999 Spring Everest North Side: Heber A. Orona continues to be reported as reaching the Summit of Everest from the North Side without the use of oxygen from several reliable sources. including  Heber A. Orona, we believe is the third climber from Argentina to Summit Everest. The first Argentinean was Tommy Heinrich in 1995 who left Everest this year after an accident in BC. Willie Benegas (born in Argentina) was the second. Willie Benegas reached the summit this year from the South Side on May 12th, 1999.
  • 1999 Spring Everest North Side: Most climbers EverestNews.com has talked with, tell us that the South Africans arrived late and that they had little or no contact with them. A couple of climbers has told us that the South Africans were a "self contained unit", and bought their own Sherpas with them. Hopefully this will explain these mystery Sherpas this year. Little news on the South Africans from other climbers so far.
  • If anyone knows the kind and color of the boots Pascal Debrouwer was wearing this year on Everest. Please contact us at everestnews2004@adelphia.net
  • Featured Books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover.
  • Into Thin Air; The Illustrated Edition  Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998

  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books

Daily News: 6/17/99 Report

  • 1999 Spring Everest North Side: A brief description of Summit day from Geoff Robb who reached the Summit of Everest from the North side this spring on 5/27/99:

Summit day was virtually windless until we got to the summit where there was a reasonable wind blowing. Just about everyone who summitted that day started around 1am. Heading up towards the ridge line we left most others and it was just a leapfrogging game with the 10 Tibetans and me and Karsang Sherpa. They went up the first step first, but Karsang and I were lucky to get to the top of the 2nd step with no one in front as the dawn was breaking. The sunrise was majestic. The Tibetans steamed past us on the summit pyramid, and it seemed crowded on top as they took their endless group photos in triumph. I spent 30min on top which was fully necessary to unfurl the Aussi flag, take all the photos Karsang and I wanted to, and dodge the Tibetans.

About 25 min coming down from the summit I passed Ivan from Ecuador who was doing an incredibly quick climb without oxygen. Similarly, after about another 30 min Heber from Argentina was doing it well without oxygen. I managed to get back to the North Col around 5.45pm but didn't have enough strength to get down to that beer at ABC until 8.15am the next morning. Kind regards, Geoff

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/16/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan - Base-camp 5,220 m / Camp 1  6,100 m      

    Jun 16th 25th day of the expedition

    We woke up at 2:00 am today and at 3:00 we were facing   the delicate Gasherbrum Glacial  for the second time. It was very cold, 11 degrees centigrade below zero what made us walk quickly and  at 6:30 am we arrived at the equipment warehouse that we had made before. We went on enthusiastic opening path in a hard snow up to a big  amphitheater which left us in front of Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak. In that place we set our Camp 2 at 6,100 m of altitude. Camp 1 is an enormous amphitheater.

    I have been amazed by the beauty of Gasherbrum massif. There are 7 summits in a remarkable beauty. I'm seeing all of them now, thanks to the nice weather. There is no cloud in the sky, which is completely blue. We are all very excited. Our main difficulty is to find a path in the  labyrinth through the cracks. We don't go far from the tents avoiding falling in one of these cracks. Later we went out for recognizing a way to Gasherbrum - Camp 2. We found soft snow where we sank up to the knees. We arrived around 6,400m of altitude, then we returned to our base-camp for some sleep.

    I'm with Iridium phone but not with the notebook, so  I leave a photo of our last attempt  where Abele Blanc and Pepe Garces appear in the beginning of the most complicate part, on the way to camp 1. The summit in the centre is Gasherbrum.

    Photo 6/16/98

  • Featured Books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover.
  • Into Thin Air; The Illustrated Edition  Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998

  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books

Daily News: 6/16/99 Report

  • 1999 Spring Everest: Our 1999 EverestNews.com Summit list is on the right shared border. The list is still very draft.. We would hope to "complete" the list in the next 30 days.
  • Several "Questions" remain in 1999. One of the more interesting questions is if Boris Korshunov made the Summit. Boris not only would be the oldest climber to make the Summit of Everest, but Boris appears to have spent the night above Camp 6 and lived ! Three climbers this year spent the night on Everest North Side above Camp 6 and lived to tell about it.... Remarkable. Therefore, even if Boris did not make the Summit, at 63 ? years young. He deserves a "medal", as one climber stated, for apparently spending the night above Camp 6 after his oxygen ran out and making it back down... Remarkable !
  • Risk has some news on Boris in their 6/1/99 report.
  • EverestNews.com is talking with several climbers on these "other questions". We need to finish these interviews and draw what conclusions are possible before posting those details. We are also waiting on others to report in...

Daily News: 6/15/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/14/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan  - Jun 14th  Starting climbing up to 5,650 m and back to base-camp  23rd day of the expedition  

    Since the weather has been better, we started with immense satisfaction to climb Gasherbrums. We went to 5,650 m, open a path on the  South Gasherbrum Glacier. It wasn't easy to get there, we suffered from warmth of the sun and got very tired trying to find a safe path among blocks of ice and deep cracks, what we call serac or ice fall. Abele, Pepe, Christian and I (Andrew stayed at base having some rest) went joint by the rope all the time, what saved us of many falls in deep cracks. In fact we faced true labyrinth, several times we were in a blind alley or in front of a insurmountable  crack (some of them 5m wide and 30m deep). We marked our path with some red flags, what will help in our next lunge. It was very difficult because we were the first ones to face the South Gasherbrum Glacial this year.

    We went half way to camp 1. In this camp, that must be placed at 6,100 m of altitude we'll do our attacks to both Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak. We expect to end to climb these two mountains in 40 days, and then go on to K2.

    Falling in the cracks was practically unavoidable. The one who was ahead suffered more, both by the effort to squash the soft snow and by the frighten to see the legs loosen  in an abysm very deep. (We sank in the crack up to the waist, because we were always alert in order to stop the fellow's fall with the rope. So, each 30 minutes one of us went to the point of the rope. My friend Abele Blanc was the most enthusiastic by starting the climb, so I leave you a photo where he appears among the ice blocks of the ice fall.

    Photo 6/14/98

  • More to follow

Photo 6/4/98 ***

Photo 6/7/98

Photo 6/8/98

Photo 6/13/98***

*** Staff Favorites: "Real Life"

Daily News: 6/14/99 Report

  • 1999 K2:

    Update 6/10/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
    Pakistan, Urdukas 4010 m / Gore 4345 m  Jun 10th 1999 - 19th day of the expedition

    The weather has changed drastically. In the morning there was a strong mist and it has snowed all day long. We arrived in Gore with no problems but we have no idea how the way will be. The temperature was 30 degrees centigrade and   fell to 5 degrees centigrade. It happened because we are walking on Baltoro Glacier. I keep leaving little messages by Iridium Phone and from two days on (when we are likely to arrive at Gasherbrum base-camp) I'll set my solar energy equipment and charge my notebook battery so I'll update K2 online as usual. I'll send news and photos from Gasherbrum base-camp.

    Update 6/11/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan, Gore 4345 m / Concσrdia 4720 m  

    Jun 11th 1999 - 20th day of the expedition

    Last night there was a strong storm on our camp. It snowed more than 20 cm. The wind stopped around 10:00 am and we decided to go back to our walking. After midday the snowed  kept falling uninterruptedly. We couldn't find   the steps on the path so we had to look for them sinking in the snow. We hope this snow diminishes so that we can arrive at Gasherbrum base-camp tomorrow. I'm sending this message by Iridium phone and I hope to be able to operate K2 online as usual tomorrow with all the communication equipment charged, sending photos as well.

    Update 6/12/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan, Concσrdia 4720 m/ Gasherbrum base-camp 5220m   Jun 12th 1999.  21st day of the expedition 

    It's a pleasure to inform you that today we arrived at Gasherbrum base-camp. After 105-km walking we are at the base of the first two mountains that we are going to face this year: Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak

    There was a violent storm yesterday so it was hard  to open a path on a soft snow today from Concσrdia to here. As our expedition is the first one this year,  the path was completely hidden by snow. We decided to set our camp 100 higher than the usual place, trying to avoid other expedition's noises,  that must arrive in the next weeks.

    I leave you a photo of our walking, where there are some courageous balti porters facing the snow to arrive at base-camp. (Note the photos should be posted soon.)

    Update 6/13/99:

    WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

    Pakistan -  Gasherbrum base-camp 5220 m   Jun 13th    22nd day of the expedition

    Today is a day off here, or better, day to set tents, bathrooms, kitchen. We're likely to be here for two or three days ending our base-camp before start climbing.

    I must explain one thing: we are at "Gasherbrums" base-camp. Gasherbrum is a massif with 5 imposing peaks, two of them higher than 8 thousand meters. The highest is Gasherbrum I, with 8,068m , also called Hidden Peak; the second one is Gasherbrum II with 8,035 m. We are trying to climb both, but to avoid misunderstanding I'll always call Gasherbrum I - Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II - Gasherbrum.

    As there was technical problems in my communication equipment I take advantage to send you photos of our approximation walk, so that everybody can have an idea about the beauty around us. On the photo there are two  balti porters on Baltoro Glacial and at the back the famous Trango Towers.

    Photo 6/14/98

  • Everest Autumn 1999: EverestNews.com is still trying to "sort out" some of these North Side summits. EverestNews.com plans some Q&A's soon. Let us know who and what, You would like to ask. For previous Q&A's see the site index.  Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
  • Featured Books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover.
  • Into Thin Air; The Illustrated Edition  Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998

  • Kurt Diemberger Omnibus : Summits & Secrets the Endless Knot Spirits of the Air by Kurt Diemberger Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 858 pages (March 1999) Mountaineers Books;

Daily News: 6/11/99 Report

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