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Everest Spring 2000:
Jagged
Globe, Featured Expedition
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EverestNews.com will
feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was
founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering
experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and
Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak
and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has
climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain
guide.
Steve and Jagged Globe
are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the
Best.
This year's expedition
will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous
Everest expeditions and reached the Summit
of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged
Globe for many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and
Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional
instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their
UK technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions
licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using
the same Sherpa team as last year.
This is another
international team, comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff
Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul
Giorgio (USA). Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to be the oldest
summiter this season - he's 61 in March!
Dispatch One: This
is the first report from the Jagged Globe 2000 Everest Expedition. The team
members have been gathering over the last three days here in Nepal. With the
exception of Andy Lock all the team is now here at the Summit Hotel in Katmandu.
We've had a busy few days in preparation for tomorrow's 5am departure for Lukla
and onto Base Camp. The outline programme for our trek to BC is as follows:
26-Mar Lukla to Phakdig
27-Mar Namche
28-Mar Namche
29-Mar Khumjung
30-Mar Pangbouche
1-Apr Dingbouche
2-Apr Dingbouche
3-Apr Chukkum ri
4-Apr Rest/Spare day
5-Apr Lobuje
6-Apr Gorak Shep
7-Apr BC
Our next dispatch will not be until we get to Namche. Our love, best wishes and
thanks to family, friends & sponsors who have got us to Nepal.
Tim Bird, Deputy Leader
Dispatch Two: The
third day of our trek to base camp and all is well! Today is a rest and
acclimatization day in Namche (3445m). We've had a late breakfast at 8am instead
of the usual 5am start on trekking days. The reason for the early starts is to
try and beat the afternoon storms. Yesterday we started in blue skies and
sunshine, only to arrive in a light snow storm in Namche. Today started fine but
the weather is once again clouding over. The guys have been heeding my advice
and taking it easy in this very important phase in the trek. Today we have visited
the Everest Museum and had lunch at the Everest bakery. Now its back to the
Panorama Lodge to rest, read and write a few postcards. Tough life! I hear you
say, but its really important not to rush around up hear. The development in the
Khumbu region is phenomenal, with tea houses and lodges being built very
quickly. Even since my visit last Autumn, I can see a change in the number of
lodges on route. The National Park had 25000 visitors in 1999 in comparison to
around 20000 in '98. However even with all this growth I believe that this will
be our last dispatch until we meet up with our sat phone and lap top at base
camp on or around the 7th April.
Tim Bird Deputy Expedition
Leader
Dispatch Three:
The team arrived at base camp on 7 April and is preparing to go to Camp 2
tomorrow (on 11 April). Andrew
Lock has joined the rest of the team and they have already got acquainted with
the Khumbu Icefall, having
made several forays into it over the last few days. There is a temporary
glitch with the email facility hence this report which was sent to the Jagged
Globe office by sat-phone. First-hand reports from the deputy leader, Tim
Bird, are expected to resume on 12 April. Tom Briggs, Jagged Globe office.
Dispatch Four: The
seventh of April saw the arrival of the whole team at base camp ( BC = 5350m)
This included the arrival of Andrew Lock, the Team Leader. Andrew had been
delayed due to unavoidable hold ups in Antarctica, something familiar to several
of the other team members! Andrew has been with us for one week now, and brings
with him a great breath and depth of experience including; two previous Everest
attempts and six other 8000m summits. Under Andrews competent leadership the
team has prepared for and completed phase one of our acclimatisation plan. Phase
one included:
1. Equipment checks and fix
rope practice
2. A short excursion into the
ice fall to practice crossing the infamous ladders that span the crevasses
3. An acclimatisation load
carry to Camp 1 and return to BC (climb high and sleep low!) The team is now on
its second rest day after completing this first phase, and is preparing for
phase two. Tomorrow morning the 13 April we plan to leave BC at am to spend two
nights at camp 1 with an acclimatisation trip to camp 2 between the nights. The
BC communications systems are just coming through the normal teething problems
associated with high tech equipment in adverse conditions, so we hope to keep
family and friends updated on our return from phase two. The team are all safe
and well and apart from small discomforts that life above 5000m brings are all
focused on the stepping stones to climb the Mountain. Tim Bird Deputy Team
Leader
Dispatch Five: The
Jagged Globe team is now back from its second foray onto the mountain. Most
members were able to complete the load carry to the site of camp two and drop a
small amount of equipment to be used later on the climb. It
is with sadness that we have had to say goodbye to Curt Peterson,
an expedition member from the USA who retired from the climb yesterday the 17
April due to an ankle injury. After
taking advice from the base camp doctor and
the expedition leadership, Curt decided that his injury would not have time to
heal during the expedition. If all goes well, he should be home with his family
in approximately one week from leaving BC.
The rest of the crew
is now resting and recuperating in BC for three days (17 19) before our
next and final acclimatisation climb. We plan to leave BC early on the 20 April
for camp one, then two nights at Advanced Base Camp (camp two ABC) where we have
a simple mess / cook tent facility at 6400m. Then onto the Lhotse face and up to
camp three at 7300m, a precarious camp cut out of the ice face! This is not a
camp to hang around in, and our next visit here will be on the summit attempt in
May. On this trip we will spend one night at camp three, getting up early to
descend to BC for breakfast at ABC / camp two.
This last planed phase
of acclimatisation will lead us into a longer period of rest at BC and most
probably at lower elevations before our summit bid in May. The team is preparing
for the next stage of the climb and sends love and best wishes to our family and
friends. Our next report will be during the next rest at BC, on approximately
the 27 April.
Tim Bird Deputy
Expedition Leader
Dispatch: The
team acclimatizes at camp 2 and has a scare on the Lhotse Face. Hi again from
the Jagged Globe Everest expedition base camp. In the last week we've had plenty
of activity and a few exciting incidents. All expedition members and staff are
well.
On Thursday 20th
April, the team was saddened to farewell one of our members, Jack Culley, who
had decided to depart for home. Jack was a valued team member and we wish him an
enjoyable and safe trip home.
On the same day, the
majority of the team headed up to camp 1, en route to camp 3 for an
acclimatisation trip. The plan was to move on Friday to camp 2, rest for a day
and then make the long climb to camp 3 for a taste of thin air. Deputy leader
Tim Bird led the group to camp 1, whilst expedition leader Andrew Lock stayed in
base camp to facilitate Jack's departure.
On Friday 21st, the
team trekked from camp 1 up the magnificent Western Cwm, surrounded by the
towering walls of Nuptse, Lhotse and of course Everest, to establish camp 2 at
the foot of Everest's steep south west face. Andrew joined the team by climbing
direct from base camp to camp 2.
An acclimatisation day
at camp 2 was much appreciated by all, as were the continual hot drinks and
meals served up by our Sherpa cooks, Ghombu and Ming Ma. Watching them melt
chunks of ice from the surrounding seracs, one ponders the age of the liquid we
are drinking. Camp 2 serves the purpose of an advance base camp and so is well
stocked for prolonged stays by the expeditioners.
Easter Sunday saw the
whole team, leaders, members and four Sherpas, make a 5.30am departure for the
Lhotse face, the intention being to climb that day to camp 3 around 7300 meters.
Strong winds and low temperatures took the fun out of the hour long journey to
the base of the face. This year the Lhotse face is bare of snow and the climb to
camp 3 is made over the exposed hard ice.
Almost immediately,
the mountain reminded us all of the potential dangers of climbing these big
peaks. One of the team was only a short distance up the ropes when an anchor
pulled and he slid over 10 meters down the ice. His fall was arrested by the
snow at the base and two of our Sherpa team who were well positioned to assist.
Whilst a nasty scare was the worst injury, we were faced with the need to re-fix
the ropes on the lowest section of the face.
The team returned to
camp 2, to organize the rope and ice equipment for the following day. As luck
would have it, the weather deteriorated that night and saw a heavy dump of snow.
We decided to descend to base camp to allow the avalanche danger to pass and to
rest for a couple of days in the thicker air.
The weather remains a
little fickle but the team are enjoying the base camp services of emails from
home and the opportunity for a hot wash (albeit a quick one in the chill air).
The team are in good health and anxious to continue the climb. Until next time,
best wishes from base camp.
Tim Bird, Deputy
Expedition Leader
Dispatch: Back
up for acclimatisation at Camp 3
Hi again from Jagged
Globe Everest expedition base camp. With three rest days under our belts, the
team is ready to venture back up the mountain. It's been a beneficial
opportunity to recover from the various minor ailments that can hamper Himalayan
expeditions. Sore knees, minor snow blindness, split lips and dry cough; all
typical of high altitude expeditioning.
The rest days have not
been wasted. Team members Tim G., Jeff, Paul and Joe have made preparations for
the next ascent. Jeff and Paul have sharpened their crampon points for the
anticipated hard ice of the Lhotse face whilst Joe took a walk down the glacier
to stretch his legs and maintain the fitness. Additionally, endless games of
Risk have seen Paul dishing out a few tactical lessons to willing victims.
Back to the mountain.
Whilst we are ready to go, close attention is being paid to the weather, as wind
is the major obstacle at the moment. Strong winds (50 knots +) have been blowing
about the higher slopes of Lhotse and encroaching down towards camp 3. Thus the
clear dawns that present themselves most mornings, are not necessarily the best
indicators for safe climbing.
Weather depending, we
plan to ascend directly to Camp 2 tomorrow (Friday) with a view either to ascend
to camp 3 on Saturday, or to take a rest day at Camp 2 and ascend on Sunday. It
is a climb of nearly 2000 meters from base camp to Camp 3, so a rest day may
well be in order. Having already slept at Camp 2 for several nights, we hope to
be sufficiently acclimatized for the night's stay at Camp 3.
If all goes to plan,
this should be our final acclimatisation trip before our summit attempt. Our
Sherpas still have plenty of hard work ahead of them, ferrying food, equipment
and oxygen to Camp 4, in preparation for the attempt. They will accompany us to
Camp 2 tomorrow but remain there after we descend from camp 3, in order to
complete the carries.
The usual afternoon
cloud is rolling in over base camp as I type (about 2.30pm local time), and a
few centimeters of snow will probably be with us by dinner time. The cloud has
generally dispersed by the time we retire and our 4am wake up should see clear
skies and chilly temperatures. Brrrr.
Until we return, best
wishes from all at base camp.
Andrew Lock,
Expedition Leader
Andrew is a former
Summitter of that smaller
mountain, K2....
Dispatch: Well
its Thursday, 4th May and the Jagged Globe team are all safely back in base camp
after a successful acclimatisation climb to camp 3.
On April 28th, we set out at
5am for the climb to camp 2. The trip through the icefall is quicker each time,
as we acclimatize and become more familiar with the route. Still it's no place
to hang around and camp 1 is a welcome place to stop and rest for a while.
We prefer now to climb direct
to camp 2, as the energy expended in collecting and melting snow, cooking meals
etc. at camp 1, is greater than pushing on to the higher camp. Our advance base
Sherpa staff occupies camp 2 throughout the expedition, so it's well maintained.
We took a rest day on Saturday, to recover from the one vertical kilometer climb
from base. Sunday dawned fine and not too windy, so we headed off at 6am for our
second attempt on the Lhotse face. The long slog up the final section of the
Western Cwm saw the team spread out below the imposing ice wall.
Once onto the Lhotse face, the
ropes were found to be in good condition and the slope
less threatening than rumor had predicted.
The ice was hard but our crampons gripped well and we made slow but consistent
progress up the face. The first members arrived about 11.30am and spent the
afternoon cutting ice for the stoves and digging out buried tents.
The thin air and cold early
morning wind took its toll on the team and the final members didn't arrive until
6pm. A fairly sleepless night was endured, during which the winds strengthened
until by dawn the tents were being buffeted continuously. We waited for the sun,
then descended quickly to the cwm and back to camp 2. The following morning the
climbers descended to base.
Our Sherpas remained in camp
2, to await an opportunity to ferry some loads to the south col. This is where
our camp 4 will be located. Having completed their load carries, the Sherpas
will descend for a rest at base camp, prior to the whole team ascending for the
summit attempt.
Whilst we wait for them, the
team has an opportunity to rest and regain strength for the big push. Tim B. and
Joe will head down to one of the local villages to spend a couple of days in the
thicker air. Paul and Tim G. prefer to remain in base camp. Andrew will also
stay in base to liaise with the Sherpas and to watch the weather for the best
summit opportunity.
Sadly, Jeff has chosen to
depart the expedition, as he suffered some minor frostbite to his fingers on the
climb to camp 3 and with medical advice feels that the risk of serious injury
would be too great if he continued the climb. The injury should heal quickly
back at home and he will depart today for Kathmandu.
The weather today is clear,
though a little windy. Our
Sherpas are at this minute en route to camp 4 with a load. We wish them well. It
will be a few days before we can consider a summit attempt,
so plenty of opportunity to catch up on sleep, reading and perhaps a little socializing
with the other expeditions.
Cheers from base camp. Andrew
Lock
Dispatch 5/10/200: Summit
attempt
A strong team of 4
lead by Andrew Lock, and supported by four experienced climbing Sherpas, is
today in camp two on route to
the South Col and a summit
push planned for the 13 May.
The Met Office day report for the Everest region, forecasts
low summit winds during this period.
The team will be using
supplementary oxygen above camp three both to climb and sleep. Many variables
can still affect the teams progress, so here at Base Camp we wish them the best
of luck and we will endeavour
to keep folks at home posted on their progress.
Tim Bird, Deputy
Expedition Leader
Update 5/13/2000: The
Jagged Globe team led by Andrew Lock is today moving from Camp 2 to Camp 3 in preparation
for a summit attempt
on the May 15. The
delay from the previously mentioned summit day is due to logistics and climbing
conditions on the mountain. Today (13th May) a Himalayan Guides team led by Rick
Allen attempted the summit but turned back near the balcony due to extreme cold
(-37) and we believe difficult snow conditions. The weather is very stable and
we wish the team every success on the 15th. Tim Bird
Status 5/21/2000:
As time draws short for our attempt on this mountain, Paul and Andrew have
headed up today for their final summit attempt. The weather forecast indicates
an opportunity on May 23rd, so that will be their aim. Today they have gone to
camp 2 and weather permitting, they will continue their ascent to arrive at camp
4 on the afternoon of the 22nd.They will be accompanied on the attempt by their
Sherpa team of Nima Ghombu and Tsillen.
EverestNews.com will feature
full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was founded by
Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including
winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims
"Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak and was the first
Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has climbed all of the
continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide. Steve and
Jagged Globe are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some
think the Best.
This year's expedition will be
lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest
expeditions and reached the Summit
of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged Globe for
many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and Island
Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional instructor
(MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their UK
technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions
licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using
the same Sherpa team as last year.
This is another international
team, comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David
Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul Giorgio (USA). Joe
Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to be the oldest summiter this season -
he's 61 in March!
Update ! They did it!
SUCCESS! 25-May-00
Hi all, just down to Base Camp
and letting you know that Andrew Lock, Paul Giorgio and Nima Ghombu reached the
summit of Mt Everest at 6.30am on 24 May. All have just reached Base Camp and
are going to have a bite to eat and a good wash and will then give a full report
of the climb. Everyone is in good health and extremely happy!! cheers A.L.
The summit story 25-May-00 Hi
again from Jagged Globe BC, where the summiteers are rejoicing.
After setting out on our last
attempt with the intention of summiting on the 23rd, we found that we were
delayed by bad weather for one day. We stayed at camp 2 for the day before
heading up to camp 3 on the 22nd and camp 4 on the 23rd. Reclimbing the mountain
so soon after our previous attempt was not as exhausting as expected and we felt
strong for the summit push.
One of our sherpas had left us
the night before the attempt, due to a sick child in Kathmandu, so we had only
Nima Ghombu with us. Nima is without doubt the strongest of our Sherpa staff.
We set out for the summit at
10pm, and quickly found ourselves on the large face leading up to the 'balcony'
. On the way, we passed a couple of other teams making their attempt and we then
had the mountain to ourselves. We climbed quickly in a fairly stiff breeze, with
temperatures around -25C. Reaching the balcony at 2.30am, we changed oxygen
bottles and continued upwards towards our previous high point of the south
summit. This we reached in the dawn light and we again changed oxygen bottles to
finish the climb. Departing the south summit at 5am, we traversed the delicate
ridge, climbing the Hillary step on the way. The step proved less difficult than
expected but by this time the winds had increased severely and we had to haul on
the fixed ropes which were flying horizontally above China.
Once over the step, we had
some further ridge traversing before emerging onto easier ground towards the top
and a final gentle slope that took us to the summit at 6.30am. Andrew arrived
first, with Paul and Nima Ghombu all on the summit by 6.45am.
Whilst another success for
Jagged Globe, this was a particularly rewarding achievement for the three, who
just 9 days earlier had been stopped at the south summit. Having descended all
the way to Basecamp where they rested for just 2 days prior to reclimbing the
entire mountain, all three are justifiably ecstatic at their success.
The ascent has particular
significance for each of the climbers: For Andrew, it is his seventh 8000 meter
summit, having already climbed K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Hidden Peak,
Gasherbrum 2 and Dhaulagiri. He has now climbed more '8000ers' than any other
Australian. For Paul, this was his first 8000er and to have virtually climbed
the entire mountain twice in the one expedition is a fantastic achievement. For
Nima Ghombu, this is his 6th ascent of Mt Everest, a phenomenal success.
The climbers plan to depart
Basecamp tomorrow for Kathmandu, hoping to arrive on 29 May. A final update will
be sent from there.
Best regards from Basecamp. A.L.
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/
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