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 August 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit Everest News Sponsor page !

Daily News: 8/10/99 Report

  • QUESTIONED SUMMITS on Everest has been updated again.
  • If anyone has any background and/or contact information on the climber from Turkey, Ugur Uluocak, who has been climbing on K2, please let us know at everestnews2004@adelphia.net.   EverestNews.com could use some contacts from Turkey.

Daily News: 8/9/99 Report

OK, now for the answers to the rest of your questions:

1.) Both Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini has completed the True Main Summit of Shishapangma.

2.) Neither the great H.A. Climbers Hans Kammerlander nor the great American H.A. climber Ed Viesturs have reached the Main Summit of Shishapangma according to our records. Both reached the Central summit according to our records.

3. ) Therefore, Hans has three summits left to complete the 14 8000 meter peaks. Ed has 4. According to the records, Ed only reached a fore-summit of Broad peak. 

4.) EverestNews.com has debated if there should be one list or two of completers on the 14 8000 meter peaks. The first list is for those climbers that have reached the true summits of 14 8000 meter peaks. The second list is the problem. How close is close enough? 50 meter, 100 meters, a fore-summit? Where does it begin and end. The feedback from the readers of EverestNews.com has been 100% the true summit, period. Our view is to make his list, you must go to the true summit, period. EverestNews.com is also going to keep this standard.

5.) The apparent issue with Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini is much more complex. Both of these men unquestionably rank in the best of the best H.A. climbers in the world. (Look at Sergi's picture on the QAGeorge page. Sergi is the climber who looks as it he is out for a daily hike.)

Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini both climbed Lhotse. The question is how far they reached. On Summit day, they believed they reached the summit, however, the conditions were horrible with a white out occurring. Another climber who summitted later claimed the footprints ended clearly short of the summit and that they did not make the summit. However, the tracks could have been filled with the snow conditions.

Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini have not denied that they might not have made it. As we understand it, they state that this is a possibility that they reached the fore-summit of Lhotse in that the conditions were horrible.

Fausto De Stefani tells reliable sources that he has no plans to go back to Lhotse. Fausto De Stefani is remembered on Everest in 1991 where he came down with a serious case of edema very high of Everest with cost him some body parts. He reached the summit of Everest in 1996 !

No word from Sergi on this issue yet.

6.) Many feels all that really counts is what matters to oneself, therefore each climber must make his or her own decisions.

7.) EverestNews.com want to be clear. In our opinion there is NO SHAME with any of these climbers mentioned above. To our knowledge no climber above has lied nor not stated the truth. In fact these climbers discussed above, are believed to be very honest, truthful, and honorable.

8.) Therefore what is the confusion ? A Shishapangma issue? No we don't think so. To EverestNews.com this really appears simple, as our source states, "you have done it or you have not." If you want your name listed with Messner, Kukuczka, Loretan, Carsolio, Wielicki, an now Oiarzabal, you must do the Top... But to add climbers to the list that has done less simply is not factual.

  • On a lighter note: A sixteen year old boy and his father summitted Mt. Rainier on Friday. Sound as if Jim Frush (Seattle climber and AAC expedition committee chairman) and some National Park Service Rangers were with them. The climbers names: Al Gore and his son Albert Gore III. Al currently is Vice President of the United States of America. Way to go AL !!!

Daily News: 8/7/99 Report

The Everest News Shisha Pangma Spring 99 Expeditions page has been updated with several summits in the last few weeks. Note this list is not complete at this point, but it reports information on some of the expeditions.

Shisha Pangma or as it is called by the Chinese Xixabangma in the only 8000 meter peak located entirely in China. The Chinese made the first ascent on May 2, 1964.

Shisha Pangma has become more interesting lately, is that some climbers attempting to complete the 14 8000 meters peaks, has not done the True summit at (Main) at 8027Meters but rather the lower and much easier Central Summit at 8008m.

The Great climber Ehardt Loretan went back and summitted the Main summit, after reached the Central Summit.

All 6 men listed on our 8000 meter page has completed the True Summits of all 8000 meter peaks. 

With that said, expeditions are lead to the Central Summit at 8008 meter regularly. The Central Summit is not an easy climb, but a significant achievement for most climbers (It is over 8000 meters).

  • Some additional Spring 1999 Shishapangma information from Martin Kung of the Swiss/German Double Cho-Oyu & Shishapangma Expedition Spring 1999.

Brief Recap: "A diary: 4/26/99 : Andrea Boll & Michael Borrmann on summit of Cho-Oyu

5/1/99  : Martin Küng on summit of Cho-Oyu

5/10/99 : Andrea, Michael and Martin arrived at the BC of Shishapangma. Bert went back to Germany (planned!). I think nobody was on summit between 5/10/99 and our attempt. 5/23/99 : Michael & Martin on summit of Shishapangma 5/25/99 : Members from the Australian army expedition on Central summit then more Australian climbers reached the Central summit alter 5/26-5/27"

On Shishapangma: "We arrived the base camp on 10th of may. I can't tell what happened before. When we arrived, the Australian group from Adventure Consulting told us they reached the Main Summit. The same said also some American team members, which arrived the summit some days before we did."

"In general, at Cho-Oyu and also Shishapangma there was very few snow. We had to climb 2 passages with black ice (about 65 degrees). At Shishapangma were many crevasses and it was quite dangerous. In mid May the weather was not stable and it snowed nearly every day. So the way to the Central summit followed through wind pressed snow and was very exhausting. If somebody climbed the Main summit, I'm sure he chose the way direct from about 7800m. The snow burr between the summits was very sharp with bad snow. On the Central summit was a little marking flag."

Martin

Daily News: 8/6/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 1999: Joao Garcia

Barrabes has a story of Joao Garcia, who reached the Summit of Everest this Spring from the North Side without the use of oxygen. Joao became one of a few climbers in the world that can stake this claim.

  • Everest News has decided that we will attempt to publish the Fran/Sergi story here on Everest News. This has been a very difficult decision for many reasons, but in the next several weeks we plans to show what is believed to have happened to these two climbers last Spring on Everest. Knowing our limitations, Everest News will tell this story in our Daily News format in our "usual style".  We will not be able to go into the hundreds of climbers who were on the mountain that year, but will concentrate on Fran and Sergi.

Daily News: 8/5/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 1999: The Chinese Climbers !

The names of the ten Chinese climbers, Gyalbu, Lodue, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na, Akebu, Tshering Dorje, La Ba, Tashi Tshering, Guisang Sang and Ji JI,  who reached the Summit of Everest from the North Side this Spring has been added to our 1999 Everest Summit List.

There are several interesting facts related to these Chinese climbers:

1.) Guisang Sang is a woman "repeater" on Everest . Meaning this is her second summit of Everest. A rare event for a woman (We believe only the third (?) woman to summit Everest twice.).

2.) This is the Chinese Expedition Team attempting to Summit all 14 8000 meter peaks.

3.) For Gyalbu, Lodue, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na, and Tshering Dorje, this was their 10th 8000 meter peak Summit completion, only 4 to go. "All True Summits." Several others on this team has done 8 or 9 summits.

  • As we have stated, Everest News plans on discussing our opinion (and some others) on "True" Summits in the next few days. Including a discussion of where Sergio, Ed, and Hans among others are at, in our opinion. This is a subject Everest News has received numerous requests to address from our readers.
  • The 1999 Everest Summit List is still not complete, but getting close.
  • 1999 K2:

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ CLOSES THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE DEATH MOUNTAIN

The alpinist, Waldemar Niclevicz, 33, has become the first Brazilian to reach the seven summits of the world - arrive at the highest peak of each continent, among them Everest , with 8,848m considered the highest in the world - has just given up, this Monday,  of  reaching   K2's summit, the second highest mountain in the world and the most dangerous of all  with 8,611m, placed in Pakistan.

No alpinist has got the peak for two years,  which   receives the name of "the Death Mountain".  According to statistics just 122 alpinists could complete the climb and 54 have died trying, a frightening average, a death in two successes.

That's the second time that the Death Mountain defeats Niclevicz. In August , last year, Waldemar Niclevicz got very close to the summit, just 571m far from it, but the 100- per- hour winds and snow up to waist made the alpinist postpone the dream to be the first Brazilian to reach K2's summit.

THE END OF THE EXPEDITION

After 72 days, the expedition led by Waldemar Niclevicz, had two big reasons to close the climb: A member's giving up and again the weather conditions at K2.

The climb was planned  to be accomplished by three alpinists, the Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz, the Italian Abele Blanc and the Spaniard Pepe Graces. But, after 3 days at K2's base-camp, the Italian alpinist has decided to draw back   "Abele Blanc's giving up was decisive  and negative for us, being a small group, just three alpinists, when a third part disappears, the team becomes too small, not only physically  but also psychologically. Only Waldemar and I are not able to face the tough conditions that that mountain shows over 8 thousand meters" said the Spaniard Pepe Garces, who, in 1995 lost 3 friends and saw other 4 died on the highest part of the mountain, trying to climb K2.

"Unfortunately we have no other option. There is an immense quantity of snow on the superior altitudes that reached up to the waist and it's an insurmountable barrier. At seven thousand meters there is an enormous serac (a snow wall) which can fall at any moment. The weather has got worse, and we believe that there aren't enough alpinists to go on doing the  necessary work. These are the main reasons for our giving up, and  Romanian Mihai Cioroianu's death last week has touched us a lot" explained Waldemar Niclevicz.

The dream to conquer K2 was postponed again "Once more I was obliged to respect such forces endlessly  more powerful than mine. K2 is on a rage moment, but I know that I can dare again. One day I'll return to K2  in order to accomplish the great dream of taking  our green and yellow flag to the top of that big mountain ,considered the most dangerous in the world"   said Waldemar Niclevicz.

Expedition Details

To return to K2 this year, Waldemar Niclevicz spent a long   acclimatization and training time. In May, in Bolivia, Niclevicz climbed 3 mountains higher than 5 thousand - Tarija (5,060m), Pequeno Apamayo (5,370m) and Condoriri (5,648m). Still, before starting climbing K2, on the Himalayans Cordillera in Jun and Jul., Niclevicz with other  expedition companions (the Italians Abele Blanc and Cristian Kuntner and the Spaniard Pepe Garces and the Australian Andrew Lock)   arrived at 7,100m of altitude at Hidden Peak and climbed Gasherbrum with 8,035 m - one of the fourteenth mountains  world higher than 8 thousand meters in the world.

Further details about the expedition can be found on the Alpinist's site www.sagarmatha.com.br

The Project has been possible thanks to Sponsorship of O BOTICÁRIO, NUTRIMENTAL, MATTE LEÃO and IRIDIUM DO BRASIL. These companies are from the   State of Paraná. Waldemar Niclevicz has received the support of the Minister of Sports Mr. Rafael Greca.

Leila Kaltman Press Officer

Daily News: 8/4/99 Report

  • Everest Autumn 1999: The Climbers !

    ÁNGEL VILLÁN POLO, 36 .
    EMILIO VICENTE LAGUNILLA ALONSO, 36 
    PEDRO RODRÍGUEZ SÁNCHEZ, 31
    FERNANDO MARNÉ CABALLERO, 46 
    IGNACIO GARCÍA PINACHO,
    ISIDORO RODRÍGUEZ CUBILLAS, 46 (Leader)
    JUAN CARLOS MARTÍNEZ LOPEZ, 40 
    MIGUEL ÁNGEL PÉREZ ÁLVAREZ, 30 
    ADELINO CAMPOS NIÑO, 42

    Plus 5 Sherpa climbers.

    It appears right now that this might be the only south side expedition in Autumn 99. Therefore these climbers will need to maintain the icefall and attempt Everest with only the support of 5 Sherpa in the Autumn conditions.

    Everest News will be bring you reports from Everest this Autumn from the EXPEDICIÓN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expedición Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/.

    We will post their reports in English, and they will post the reports in Spanish on their site. The expedition is dedicated to Samuel Rubio a Leon mountaineer who died at 84.

  • Cho Oyu Autumn 99:

Cho Oyu Autumn Coverage including reports from Adventure Consultants Ltd - http://www.adventure.co.nz.

Adventure Consultants has a team of 10 lead by Jim Litch and assisted by Andy Lapkis of the USA, Ang Dorje Sherpa of Nepal and Dean Staples of NZ. Look for more Cho Oyu News in the coming days...

  • Questioned Summits on Everest:

Risk has published additional information on some of the Everest "questioned summits" in English. Everest News encourages you to read their information. http://www.risk.ru/eng/news/index.html

Also have you all seen their wonderful new site? Risk

Daily News: 8/3/99 Report

K2 -  Base-camp, 5,100m -August 2nd, 72nd day of the expedition

Message written by my Friend Pepe Garces, Project K2's   partner:

"Again I'm on the feet of this big, mountain called Chogori or K2. Less than a year, since I joined Waldemar Niclevicz and other three Italian companions, we overcome the limits of 8 thousand meters, when a strong blizzard pull us down, where we looked for shelter on the inferior camps, obliging us to close the climb to K2 in 1998.

Now, a year later, after climbing Gasherbrum, we've arrived at K2's base-camp where, as it had appeared a plague and most of its inhabitants escaped believing that it was impossible to climb the big mountain, It's true that there weren't so many  and important forces, but it's true that if the little that exists here disappears, rest nothing or almost nothing.

Few days ago, before arriving at K2's base-camp, a Romanian expedition lost one of the six alpinists, the Romanian Mihai Cioroianu, 32, who was hit by a stone on the Abruzzos ram, and then everybody left  the mountain. Afterwards the famous Italian alpinist Hans Kammerlander with his two companions reached the "Bottle Neck" at 8,300m, and they withdrew by the snow depth, giving up definitively. And then, Abele Blanc, our team companion, did the same, knowing the mountains condition by Kammerlander 's report . So, just a 6-Korean expedition and two other alpinists (one Turkish and other American) have decided to stay.

Abele Blanc's giving up, was decisive and negative for us, because being a small group, just three alpinists, when the third part disappears, the team diminishes not only physically but also psychologically. The hopeless union of forces, that are not a lot  here at base-camp, it's not the best way to climb K2, and just Waldemar and I can't face the hard situation that this mountain has shown over 8 thousand meters.

I've already had a very tough experience to be overcome at K2, when in 1995 I lost 3 companions, while other four disappeared forever on the heights of this mountain. I, and other companion survived  to that situation, just after serious freezing on feet  and hand toes, what have resulted in serious amputation. In such case, once more, K2  demands its law against our capacity of decision and caution.

This mountain here, waiting for us, and surely, some day not so long, it will  lean to our power, our technical  skill and  above all to our mind.   It is and it will be"

Pepe Garces

Dear friends:

With those words from my friend Pepe Garces, and with a deep sadness, we  close our attempts to climb K2 this year. Unfortunately we have no other option. There is an immense quantity of snow on the superior parts and  the weather has got worse again, with other blizzards. We believe that there aren't alpinists enough to go ahead with the necessary works, i.e., set up camp 4, at  8,050m both by Tomo Cesen  and by Abruzzos. That is, undoubtedly, the greatest reason for our giving up.   And the Romanian's death Mihai Cioroianu has touched us a lot.

It's very hard for me, but I'm sure I'm taking the right, propitious  and conscious decision. I'd like to remind you that we are at K2, and that K2 is considered the most dangerous and difficult mountain to climb. Just 122 alpinists have reached its summit  with its  8,611m , and this year the death number increased from 53 to 54.

I thank everybody who have followed K2 on-line for the last 72 days, and surely we have learned a lot together. I've received wonderful messages and I hope  I could transmit you a little of the  mountain fascination. I thank also my loyal sponsors, O BOTICARIO, NUTRY, IRIDIUM DO BRASIL and MATTE LEÃO, that have believed in the Project K2, investing much more than money, and revealing a sincere relationship from the beginning to the end.

Here I bend in front of this big mountain, as a sign of respect. Here I thank your confidence. Here I thank God for being alive, full of health and  able to return home (you can't imagine how I'm happy!!!). Here the great dream goes on, a dream to climb K2, that one day I intend to accomplish. Thank you very much for your support. May your spirit reach the heights!

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ

P.S.: I'm very happy to not  return empty-handed , after all, Brazil has conquered Gasherbrum for the first time, the "Light Mountain" with 8,035m, the 14th highest mountain in the world. That's a big Victory!!!

  • Coming Up

Autumn Everest 1999 South Side

Autumn Everest 1999 North Side (will anyone go?)

Cho Oyu Autumn Coverage including reports from Adventure Consultants Ltd - http://www.adventure.co.nz

Mountain by Mountain Spring re-caps, with Summit additions

What is a Summit ? The true Summit ? Is a fore-summit a Summit ?

Discussions of trends in Commercial guiding

1999 Spring Everest Summits finished

Web Site of the week returns

Daily News: 8/2/99 Report

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM

K2-  Base K2,  5,100m  Jul 30th,  69th day of the expedition

A beautiful shooting team from National Geographic is here at base-camp, what makes us feel truly a  movie character everyday. They've already interviewed each one of us at least ten times, and each one of the smart interviews leads us to think about the expedition aim, about this immense desire to overcome a real dangerous challenge, but fascinating.

And then, I draw a conclusion the bigger the wish, the nearer we get close of the reality of this dream. And it isn't craziness! Everybody has dreams, but really few ones search the   this dream accomplishment. This is, for me, escape from reality. Because these dreams will never come true. What we do here is exactly the inverse, we face  the reality of this dream, we give direction to our existence, we give direction to these wishes that tie us to life itself, and no to hypothetical delusions. Here we live intensively each second, here our life depends on the consciousness of our acts, here the life is the pure reality, where each of us is here because we feel the blood vibrates powerfully, because a tear heats our face, because our smile brings always hopes. Here we don't wear masks and we aren't actors, here we are just the character of our own existence. And the mountain isn't our stage simply and nor a false scenery where we play our adventure. The mountains raises  our feelings, reveals the true human being in each one of us, with its magnificence reduces us to nothing.

And inside this insignificance we understand the human being's value,  the importance of a friend, and  our weakness in front of nature. In fact, we don't step forward if  that big mountain doesn't permit. In fact we don't go anywhere if we don't believe in ourselves, no dream will come true if we don't search its accomplishment.

Today, I was doing some photos for my sponsor and the National Geographic team shot everything and so they asked me what I was doing "Photos for those who  trust in the  Project K2, it is the minimum  I can do for those whom deposited so much confidence on me".

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ

K2,  Base - K2,   5,100m   Jul. 31st   70th day of the expedition

Brazil, Brazil,  I miss you a lot!!!

It has been 70 days since I left home, far from my country, my family and the person I most love. But the distance makes feel well, makes me want more what I have  and I can be sure of my feelings and my return day will be very nice.

These mountains fascinate me, and I discover that I'm not else than a pilgrim here, full of faith!

WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ

  • Everest Spring 1999

Risk plan to publish information on some of the Everest "questioned summits" today in English. We understand the Russian version has been posted. Check them out ! Risk

And "Follow the Ball"...

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