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Japan
Mt. Spantik 2002 Expedition
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The
Japanese TAC will attempt Mt. Spantik 7027 meter in
Pakistan with an expedition expected to arrive on
7/19/2002. Mr. Sugawara Nagashisa is the leader of the
expedition, from Kanagawa, Japan. They will attempt
the South East Ridge route with a team of 4
climbers. This expedition follow a history of Japanese
expeditions on Spantik (see below).
Source:
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
1/2002: This expedition has cancelled for 2002.
Master
List of Expeditions for Pakistan 2002
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The
Peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramoshi
massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some
foreign maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition
to Spantik peak. The other maps call it Genish
Chish (peak), its height is 7027 meters.
In
1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to
the area to explore the glaciers situated around
the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed
Nushik pass, which it claims is 5273 meters high
and descended on Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu. |
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Spantik |
In
1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the
leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather, went to
Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them
for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area.
The
peak was however climbed from south ridge by a
Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars
and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club
expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year
from south-east ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both
expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area
and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier.
Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak
was climbed in 1955 by Germans.
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