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 To the Edge of The Impossible" Everest 2000 Expedition

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish

Two objectives of the Expedition:

Recently the program of the TVE "To the Edge of The Impossible" announced its intention to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway. Last Tuesday, 15 of March TVE publicly presented in the studies of Prado of the King, the expedition " To the Edge of the Impossible to Everest ". This poses many challenges including high altitude cinematography, a historical re-creation of the June 1924 attempt and a sporting challenge to ascend without oxygen. No member of the expedition, neither mountain climbers, nor technicians, will take bottled oxygen. From 7000 meters and above mountain climbers will be in charge of shooting film. For this complicated project they have reunited to an outstanding team, seven mountain climbers: Juanito Oiarzabal, Inaki Querejeta, Josu Bereziartua, Juan Vallejo, Ferrαn Latorre, Oscar Cadiach and Alberto Cerain; and four technicians: the cameramen Antonio Pιrez-Grueso and Manolo Rojo, the sound technician Daniel Salas and Sebastiαn Alvaro as producer. Oscar Cadiach will play of Mallory and Alberto Ceraνn will be his companion representing Irvine. The expedition is taking more than 6000 kilos of material (equipment, food and cameras) including 6000 meters of 16mm film and six cameras for high altitude filming that is  needed to allow the group to climb Everest and record their entire adventure.

    

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Oscar Cadiach and Alberto Ceraνn

 

Interview with Juanito:

The ascent will once again match Oiarzabal against Everest. A summit of which he recognizes that he does not have good memories from his two previous expeditions. On the first expedition, by not being able to reach the summit and on the second, in 1993, when a few hours of stepping on the Summit an expedition member ran into tragedy. Antonio Miranda died during the decent." I keep no resentment. I return to enjoy the mountain and because I want to make this 8000 meter mountain without oxygen like the others ", Juanito comments.

To the Edge Of the Impossible and Everest:

The television program already has a long history in common with the highest mountain on Earth. The first expedition in 1987 was not able to reach the summit. In the 1992 the TVE expedition returned next with members of the Mountain Military School of Jaca. On this occasion the expedition summited, the 15 of May, the 8848 meters of the top of Everest, following the complex Route of the Poles. This year the expedition will undertake a new sporting challenge, climbing without oxygen via the North Face route along with the cinematographic challenge to reproduce what could be the first human expedition to reach the top of the mountain called Goddess Mother of the Earth.

Until the last detail...

Amongst the more than 6000 kilos of material that the expedition will bring for this project, are two period costumes made of wool, similar to which the members of the British expedition 1920's wore. Ice axes, ropes, and other material from the expedition also has been made of for the project. Boxes of wood of the time, lamps, old gas cylinders of oxygen, chairs and tables, notebooks, pencils, pipes, pens, clocks, compasses, old maps, and other many materials of the past will serve to reproduce in images any moment of the old expedition. With all the necessary details that the spectators who traveled in 1924 to the Base Camp to witness and adventures with Mallory and Irvine will see what it was like. costumes made of wool, similar to which the members of the British expedition 1920's wore. Ice axes, ropes, and other material from the expedition also has been made of for the project. Boxes of wood of the time, lamps, old gas cylinders of oxygen, chairs and tables, notebooks, pencils, pipes, pens, clocks, compasses, old maps, and other many materials of the past will serve to reproduce in images any moment of the old expedition. With all the necessary details that the spectators who traveled in 1924 to the Base Camp to witness and adventures with Mallory and Irvine will see what it was like. costumes made of wool, similar to which the members of the British expedition 1920's wore. Ice axes, ropes, and other material from the expedition also has been made of for the project. Boxes of wood of the time, lamps, old gas cylinders of oxygen, chairs and tables, notebooks, pencils, pipes, pens, clocks, compasses, old maps, and other many materials of the past will serve to reproduce in images any moment of the old expedition. With all the necessary details that the spectators who traveled in 1924 to the Base Camp to witness and adventures with Mallory and Irvine will see what it was like.

EverestNews.com will report on Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" expedition thanks to our friends in Spain, which we have agreed to exchange certain information and other sources. Desnivel source of images and interview with additions and modifications by EverestNews.com.

More on this expedition soon including their comments on Graham return to Everest to find the camera. The Expedition left on the 23th !

  • Everest Spring 2000: Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish

Part 2: In search of the camera of Mallory:

Last spring an expedition lead by Eric Simonson found the frozen body of George Mallory who disappeared in the Everest 75 years ago. The "Investigating Expedition Mallory and Irvine 1999 " mainly intended to find convincing evidence that demonstrated that Mallory and Irvine were first to climbing to the top of the world. On April 1st search for evidence started and Mallory's body was located on May 1st 1999, about 521 meters from the summit. Mallory was found in a jacket and trousers of wool.  The investigators looked for the camera but without success.  The photos that this camera MIGHT contain could show that M&I had summited or at least show that they died on descent (photo being taken above where the body was found). According to the specialists, the impression on the film that could be in good state and be preserved by the low temperatures.  This would prove Mallory and Irvine the first men who climbed a mountain of 8000 meters (since Maurice Herzog climbed the Annapurna in 1950) and first in arriving at the summit of the highest mountain of the world, almost three decades before famous Edmund Hillary and the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. Graham Hoyland, great nephew of Somervell who was intimate friend of Mallory, to try to recover the camera.  Graham is returning to Everest, where he summited in 1993, and who will count on the support of the BBC. The BBC team, sponsored by the English public television station, will leave at the end of March to the base camp of the North of the Everest, to ascend by its northeast route and to try to recover the camera George Mallory carried. According to Graham, the BBC was also the major sponsor of last year's M&I expedition.

Can the answers be found in the camera?

We asked Sebastiαn Alvaro, director of the program of television To the Edge of the Impossible, what he thinks of the search of the all-important camera. 

Note his answers are translations from Spanish !

What do you think about the fact that the BBC organizes an expedition to look for the camera of Mallory? 

"We knew that the great nephew of Somervell had been the initiator of the idea last year, when they were in the Americas, and this year they have been put in contact with us to ask for aid and our cooperation in the search. "

Is "To the Edge" interested in looking for the camera? 

"Our objective never has been to look the camera nor bodies. Our objective is to climb Everest without oxygen and to reconstruct and narrate to the viewers the fascinating history of Irvine and Mallory.  "

If the camera is found it would solve the great mystery of the ascent? 

"No, I believe that there are many possibilities that the camera had broken and therefore the material inside is unimportant. In addition, in my opinion, the camera is going to have no test, neither in a sense nor in another one, that it contributes any more light on the situation which we know about. "

EverestNews.com should add that in our research we discovered that Juan Oiarzabal had a plan to reconstruct the fascinating history of Irvine and Mallory before last year. In fact, he had been working on this for several years, EverestNews.com has learned. Many thanks for our friends at Desnivel for the source of the interview with additions and modifications by EverestNews.com.

Current Status 3/30/2000, Expedition Delayed: A general strike with the new government of Nepal has delayed Juan and his expedition. They are being prevented from leaving the airport of Tribhuvan.

This general strike is affecting many trekkers. Almost the norm in Nepal for issues of this kind it seems every year.

A earlier Report is below:

  • AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE (Irvine & Mallory)

In Spring 2000, Juan Oiarzabal from Spain will head an expedition to emulate Mallory & Irvine's 1924 attempt on Everest. Juan is one of only 6 men to Summit all of the 14 8000 meter peaks. This expedition will film their climb while attempting to reproduce Mallory & Irvine's ascents. Juan and his expedition will attempt the same route as Mallory & Irvine without the use of bottled oxygen. Juan Oiarzabal is clearly one of the greatest H. A. climbers ever, gives this group hope and credibility.

What is their Everest experience? Alberto climbed Everest (S Col) in May 1993. Oscar climbed Everest in Aug 1985 (N Col route) and May 1993 (S Col). Juan did the 14 8000m peaks between 1985 (Cho Oyu) and 1993 (Everest S Col with oxygen.).

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