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Updates are below...
For earlier reports and
an introduction: 1999
K2:
Update 7/1/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pepe Garces and I rested
at camp 2 today and fortunately Abele, Christian and
Ralph came from base-camp up and now the
team is all together. Therefore, we intend to
follow to camp 3 tomorrow. The weather is reasonable,
winding a little and quite cold at high
altitudes. Here, at camp 2 it was (-) 18 degrees C
at night . Let's cheer the weather
doesn't get worse and then we can arrive
at Camp 3 at 7,200m of altitude and on Saturday
we can get the summit of Hidden Peak at 8,068m.
Exclusive. Don't miss
this Sunday, at a TV Program called
Fantástico in Brazilian TV, Globo Network, images
from the beginning of the expedition of the Project
K2: the arrival in Pakistan, the approximation walking
to Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum
base-camp.
Update 7/2/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak - Camp 2,
6,500m/7,100m / Camp 1 5,950m,
41st day of the expedition
Today was the longest
and toughest day of the expedition. We
started climbing at 7:00 am through the "Japanese
Corridor" and at 2:00 pm we were at the end of
the fixed ropes amidst a strong snowstorm. The wind
was strong and the visibility was less than 40 meters.
Unfortunately the
difficulty in our path has surprised us. We went up to
7,100m of altitude, climbing on a breaking rock and
sank in a snow up to 50 degrees
inclination.
At that moment we
were all decided to return to camp 2. Pepe and I
initiated our descending immediately. Before, we
left a warehouse with tent, food and fuel for our next
lunge. To our surprise, our
colleagues didn't come down, improvising a camp 3 at
7,100. Pepe and I came to camp 1, where we
arrived at 8:00 pm very tired. I'll send further
details tomorrow direct from base-camp.
Update 7/3/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak -
Camp 1, 5,950 m / Base 5,220 m,42nd day of the
expedition
Fortunately we are at
base-camp for resting after 6 work days in superior
altitudes. And here, at base, I can explain better
what we have been doing, because I update K2 on-line
directly with my notebook. When I am climbing, I use
the Iridium to update K2 on-line, calling my office in
Brazil, but not always possible to publish what I
want.
Well,
Pepe and I descended from camp 1 today, amidst a thin
snow. In fact, the weather has got worse and we took
the right decision to return from 7,100 m yesterday,
leaving there just some equipment and setting our camp
3. It was a hard decision, as with camp 3 set, we
could reach the summit. Here's a part of the story
that neither I nor Pepe can understand well.
Yesterday the day was
very hard, we worked much to get the superior Glacier
which would take us to camp 3. On Jun 30th Pepe and I
fixed 600m ropes in the Japanese Corridor. On Jul.
1st, Abele Christian and Andrew (our colleagues who
were at base-camp), arrived at camp 2 where we were
resting (in that day the Koreans fixed more 200 m of
ropes). then, all our team left early (6:00 am)
yesterday trying to reach camp 2 definitively in order
to prepare our final attack. But, while we were going
up, the weather got worse, a cold wind started blowing
and when we finished the fixed ropes the difficulties
went on. We were climbing on a ground, half rock, half
ice, from 45 to 55 degrees inclination. And we had no
option unless continue fixing ropes.
Around 7,000 meters
of altitudes, the rock wall was
replaced by an immense glacier, there we put the last
stake in the snow and tied the rope end. At
that point, we were climbing amidst a snowstorm with a
short visibility. The wind became stronger, but
sometimes it almost stopped. At that time we all had
decided to return to camp 2, because with such weather
conditions it would be hard to set camp 3 and,
furthermore follow to the summit in the next day. I
started the long descending followed by Pepe and
asking myself if we could get the base, it would be
better to rest. Unfortunately it was late when we
arrived at camp 2 (5:00 pm), even tired we didn't rest
and went on to camp 1 (the lower altitude it is,
the better you feel to rest, due to an increase of
oxygen concentration). We always looked up, to see if
our friends were descending, but we couldn't see
anything. I was surprised when I was near camp 1, I
saw in the same place where we had finished the climb,
3 dots moving. Pepe and I
can't understand why our colleagues didn't respect
what we had agreed and decided to spend the night at
7,100m. We haven't had news of them so far, although
we have insisted on a contact by radio, no success.
Now, it is 5:15 pm at base-camp, it's snowing
a lot , we hope Abele, Christian
and Andrew are OK.
Photo
(legenda da foto) The
photo shows the beginning of the Japanese Corridor. 3
work-days to find a safe path among the rock towers.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/4/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak
Base-camp 5,220m, 43rd day of the expedition
Pepe
and I have had some tense moments here at base-camp. The
weather keeps unstable, it snowed a lot at night, and
so far 3:10 pm we have no news
of our friends. Well, it's sure that they set
camp 3 at 7,100m, a day before yesterday, when Pepe
and I came to camp 1. Yesterday would be the day
that they would attack the summit, but as the weather
was very bad, they probably decided to wait one day
else at 7,100 m. So, I believe that they are coming
down today to camp 2, very frustrated by the bad
weather, and tomorrow they must arrive at base-camp. I
hope so, but I can't understand why they couldn't get
in touch by radio, I don't believe that they haven't
taken a radio with them.
Photo
Today I leave you one
more photo in the Japanese Corridor, where my friend
Pepe Garces appears in one of the most difficult
parts, under a negative wall, fixing ropes. On the
first workday Pepe and I spent seven hours
to fix 600 m of ropes. These ropes are very important
to ease our climb, and a possible exit in case of bad
weather.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/5/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak
- Base-camp 5,200m, 44th day
of the expedition
Dear friends:
With pleasure I
communicate that all our team is
well. And the news is still better, Abele
Blanc and Christian Kuntner are the first alpinists
that arrived at the summit of Hidden Peak this year,
although it has been very hard and they were very
unruly.
In fact, they decided to
set camp 3 at 7,100 m, just after Pepe and I had
started descending to camp 2, as it was agreed among
us (on Jul. 2nd). The Australian Andrew Lock had
stayed with them, all of them intended to leave to the
summit at 10:00 pm, but the wind was very strong. They
waited all night for a wind stop and it stopped around
4:30 am. Then, they began the final attack by 5:00 am,
quite late and with short visibility. After 30 minutes
Andrew got late and couldn't see his companions
anymore returning to his tent at camp 3. Abele
and Christian went on facing difficulties, threat of
board avalanches, strong wind, short visibility. They
got lost several times, but they went on up, arriving
at the summit at 5:30 pm yesterday (Jul. 4th). The
wind was very strong and Abele has confessed he was
afraid of being taken by the wind. The descending was
nervous too, our friends couldn't find the descending
path amidst a snowstorm and with the sunset they were
already imagining to spend the night out. It was when
they found several signals of old camps and finally
their tent at camp 3. The arrival at the summit of
Hidden Peak by Abele and Christian was, undoubtedly, a
big demonstration of courage but also an unnecessary
demonstration of imprudence. The life exposition to
such extreme conditions isn't worth. The rest of
the team got very worried, because all of us had taken
the decision to go to camp 2 and not to continue
up the summit. My friends, the mountains life is very
beautiful and knowing how to live it and preserve it
depends on each one. The nice living among a
good team is one of the biggest satisfaction I've
already had. It's a pity that, sometimes, the man puts
his personal pride above the common aim.
That's why, on one hand I'm very glad because they are
Ok, but on the other hand, I'm very disappointed by
our companion's individualism and by the lack of
respect to their own lives.
Our Sunday (yesterday)
was dark and cold. It snowed all day long..
Practically everybody descended from superior camps to
base today. The weather got a little better today, but
the snow kept falling, provoking big avalanches. Koreans
and Spaniards have already set camp 3 at Gasherbrum II
and wait at base-camp for good weather
conditions. Two new expeditions
are among us, both Americans, one of them will climb
Gasherbrum IV through via Bonatti and other commercial
to Gasherbrum II.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Photo
(legenda da foto)
Christian Kuntner and Abele Blanc, the first alpinists
to climb Hidden Peak this year, just after arriving at
base this morning.
Update 7/6/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak -Base
5,220m, 45th day of the expedition
My friends, the
weather is very bad unfortunately. The sky was
full of dark clouds today, with an intermittent
blizzard every hour. We receive the forecast today
from Spain and this instability will go on till Friday
at least. That forecast was done by the meteorologist
Daniel Ramirez, with very high efficiency, and is
sponsored by BARRABES (one of
the best alpinism equipment shops in Spain, see
www.barrabes.com. )
While we are waiting, we
take advantage to rest and have a good food . Here at
base-camp we have a cook, who offers us a great
variety of meals. His name is Baker and
cooks very well. He's the same cook we had in our
expedition to K2 last year. Baker works for Adventure
Tours Pakistan (www.atp.com.pk), the agency
which is supporting us. Each four days the agency gets
the food to our base-camp. Yesterday afternoon
we had a surprise, which made Baker's eyes shine: a
Goat!!! Our cook followed by Mohamed (his helper)
hunted the animal today morning and prepared a lovely
lunch. Here at base-camp we eat basically potatoes,
rice, chapati (a kind of bread) and dhal (lentils). We
are free of that type of menu thanks to food that we
have brought from Italy (much pasta, many
olives, cheeses, hams, sweets, biscuits, etc...).
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/7/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum Base,
5,220m / Camp 1, 5,950 m, 46th day of the expedition
The meteorology has
forecasted unstable weather with storms
for yesterday and today, getting better tomorrow but
with strong winds S-SW on the summits. Temperature
0 degrees C at 4,500m and minimum from -20/-25 degrees
at 8,000 m. The weather must get worse on Friday. In
this situation and taking in consideration that the
days are going by so quickly, we have decided to
change our plans once more. We believe that here is no
enough time to end the climb to Hidden Peak, but we
can make an attempt to climb Gasherbrum, a much
less complicate mountain. It's a pity, but it will
just be successful if the weather permits.
Also, it's an effort
union, with the Spanish Oscar Cardiach's expedition
and with the Korean Sang Bae Lee's expedition, who are
at Gasherbrum camp 2. We are
going to leave at 5:00 pm to camp 1 and early in the
morning, around 5:00 am, we'll go on aiming to reach
camp 3, at 7,000m and finally make the final attack
together in the morning after. Let's cheer the weather
helps us.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/8/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum - Camp 1
5,950m, 47th day of the expedition
Wind has blown a lot at
heights today on Gasherbrum. Koreans tried to get the
summit, but they returned from 7,400m due to wind
strength. Even though, Pepe and Andrew and the
Spaniards followed to camp 3 (7,000 m). I've got a
super coughing attack and sore throat. I preferred to
be waiting for a weather improvement here at camp 1.
Tomorrow Abele and Andrew are arriving from base-camp
and I intend to go up with them.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/9/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Camp I, 5,950m / Camp III, 7,000m, 48th
day of the expedition
Abele, Christian and I
have come to camp 3 today at 7,000m of altitude, while
the Spaniards and Englishmen took advantage of the
beautiful day to get the summit of Gasherbrum II,
8,035m. In a total 16 people have succeeded.
I expect to go on
in my attempt today at midnight with Abele, Pepe and
Christian. Let's cheer this year's first climb in
the Project K2 succeeds.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/10/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum,
Attempt to Attack the Summit of Gasherbrum 8,035m
49th day of the expedition
It was a long and
extremely tough day, but worthy. We
have succeeded to climb the 8,035m of the 14th highest
mountain in the world. Abele Blanc,
Christian Kuntner and I arrived today at 1:20 pm
(Pakistan hour - 8 hours earlier than the
Brazilian hour) at the summit of Gasherbrum after an
icy night ( -21 degrees C). We're exhausted, but
happy!
The
day was wonderful, but when we got the summit, the
weather changed suddenly, strong winds and threatening
storm clouds took place. The great difficulty
was the soft snow found on the way, mainly at the last
200m before getting the summit, where we sank up to
the knees. So, unfortunately, it wasn't possible to be
there for a long time, mainly due to strong winds. We
are at Camp 3, 7,000m, where we have
hydrated, melting snow. But, we've got it, that's the
important!
Gasherbrum in Urdu means
"light mountain". This
success, the conquest of the light mountain, I offer
to Adriana Carioba, the woman of my life, with whom I
expect to get married as soon as I arrive in Brazil.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/11/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Camp 3, 7,000m / Base-camp 5,200m,
50th day of the expedition
We are leaving Camp 3
today towards base-camp for resting. We are happy by
the team's conquest and by the fact that I have
been the first Brazilian to climb Gasherbrum with its
8,035m of altitude, the 14th highest mountain in the
world. This is a unique victory to Brazilian Alpinism,
and for me a good motivation to go on the
Project K2.
As soon as I get the
base I'll send you the photos. Once more thank you for
cheering!
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/12/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum Base-camp,
5,220m, 51st day of the expedition
Dear friends
With great pleasure I
send this message direct from base-camp, after
climbing Gasherbrum II successfully, with 8,035
of altitude, the 14th highest mountain in
the world.
Abele and I had a
nervous descending yesterday from 7,000 meters,
camp 3, as far as base-camp. The final attack, from
7,000 meters to the summit was long and tough, it
seemed endless. And when we got the summit,
what we were expecting, happened.
The weather changed suddenly, a strong wind blew at
8,035m and the clouds started to fulfill all horizon.
During our descending it
started to snow very strongly and it got colder as we
went down. We arrived at camp 3 very tired and the
blizzard went on all night long. We almost couldn't
sleep, worried about going down to camp 1 and having
the possibility of an avalanche on our tent.
Around 4:00 am, when the sun was rising we tried to go
out of the tent for the first time but it was
impossible. All camping was about 30 cm under the
snow, from 50 to 60 km/hour wind. The
worst was the lack of visibility, we couldn't see
further than 10 meters. So, we waited the
wind calm down. By 6:00 am Abele and I could go out of
the tent and started to look for the rope end which
would take us safe down. I found the end of the
fixed rope 40 cm under the snow, far about 20 cm from
Abele I insisted on saying " I'm sure it's
here".
It was craziness to go
down in that weather, but the storm was similar to
days before (it's snowing till now), and being
hung in that tent at 7,000 meters of altitude could be
fatal. Therefore we needed to do something
quickly. So, we started doing a series of
descents by fixed ropes, on a wall between 30 and 60
degrees inclination. The wind, furious, almost
blinded us. The snow that had just fallen, fell in
great avalanches on our feet. We started digging
each meter of rope with difficulty and the most
incredible, although we were in front of each other
just some meters ahead, the one who came behind
couldn't find any other's footsteps.
The wind and the snow erased everything very quickly
hiding the ropes again. As far as camp 2, at 6,500 m
(place where we didn't use for camping, so we hadn't
any tent there) it was one of the
greatest adventure I've ever had. After being
sheltered by the wind, thanks to the mountain
geography, the descending was calmer to 6,000 meters,
where the fixed ropes finished, because the
inclination diminished and there was just 30 minutes
walk to camp 1. We arrived there at 11:00 am,
when it stopped snowing. We ate and drank much, so we
went on descending to base. At 1:00 pm it started
snowing hardly again. The descending to base was
nervous again, due to a great quantity of snow that
was falling. It hid
innumerable glacier cracks.
But, my friends, we
arrived in our base-camp, where the first thing that
called my attention was the Brazilian flag, trembling
on a bamboo amidst a strong blizzard. Our
green and yellow flag, trembling for the
first time in the history at the heights of 8,035 meters
of Gasherbrum, 'the light mountain" the
14th highest in the world.
Photo
(legenda da foto) The
accomplishment of a great dream, Waldemar Niclevicz
with the Brazilian flag, that was received by
the Minister of Sports and Tourism of Brazil, Mr.
Rafael Greca, on the heights of Gasherbrum, with
8,035m of altitude, the 14th highest mountain in the
world.
PS.: During this week,
each day a photo of a new climb. Don't
miss!
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/13/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum, Base,
5,220m,52nd day of the expedition
It's incredible, but
just a day resting here at base- camp makes the
difference. I feel much better, but even thought very
sure to go to K2, leaving Hidden Peak for another
opportunity.
Unfortunately the days
have gone by so quickly and the weather hasn't
helped much. I'd like to have already climbed those
two mountains . Yesterday was the foreseen day that
the porters would come to move to the base of K2. I
have a good feeling, that we will have good weather in
the next full moon, on the 28th, when I intend to do
the final attack to K2.
A little good sense can
solve everything. I'm very glad by my ascending to
Gasherbrum, although I'd like to try Hidden Peak
again. Nothing is more important in this expedition
than K2. I feel perfectly acclimatized for this
comfort, and a new attempt to Hidden Peak would bring
us an useless and unnecessary waste. It's
my point of view. Unfortunately
I couldn't convince my friend Pepe Garces to give up
of Hidden Peak. So, he waits the weather gets better
in the next days to go on to superior camps with the
Australian Andrew Lock.
While I recover my
energy, I look after my throat that is getting
better step by step. On the other hand, I take the
necessary arrangements to climb K2. I've already got
in touch with the agency in Islamabad, that will send
36 porters on Jul. 20th, when we intend to leave to
K2, base-camp, just a two-day walk from here.
Photo
(legenda da foto)
As I have promised, I'll send a new photo of our
climbing to Gasherbrum each day. Today's photo I
took when I was at 6,500m, where camp 2 is placed. On
the photo appears Abele and Christian on the top of
the called "banana", the first obstacle on
our climb route, a 300-metre ram . In the
centre, in the back and below, the Glacier Gasherbrum
joins the Glacier Duca de Abruzzi, where appears a
narrow black spot, it's where our base-camp is
placed. The other big round mountain in the centre is
"Golden Throne".
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/14/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum Base, 5,220m,
53rd day of the expedition
If you have been
following K2 on-line since the beginning, I remind you
that we were the first expedition that arrived in
base-camp. So, we prefer to put our tents as high as
possible, avoiding being located in the midway of
other expeditions. And if you think that all this
concern is too much you are wrong, because there are 11
expeditions around here, an average of 120 alpinists
and almost 200 people, counting the cooks and
porters, that almost all expeditions take. That's why,
we are at 5,200m and below there are other tents
located around: Spaniards from
Catalonia, Frenchmen, Englishman, Koreans, Spaniards
from Valencia, Americans, more Koreans, etc. on
a narrow moraine that is squeezed between the Glacier
Gasherbrum and goes down by the Glacier Duca de
Abruzzi.
For our surprise, there
are a great number of military Pakistanis troops all
around Karakorum, and the brave Pakistanis soldiers
have their camps on the Glacier during all year long.
About 500 meters from our tents there are an army
base, where it's forbidden to get close or take
pictures, and take a look, we are talking about
something around 5,350 m of altitude. But, it's not
all, going the glacier Duca de Abruzzi up, you get the
"control line", the called undefined
frontier between Pakistan and India. It's
up there at 6 thousand meters of altitude that's
placed the last military base of Pakistan. Here from
the base we can see some organized tents on the snow.
When the weather is good, as it was today,
heavy helicopters bring groceries for the
soldiers, in big hanging nets. As the air is rarefied,
it can't land, so it releases the groceries at a
minimum altitude that it can get. Today I counted
seven of them flying over our camping. But the worst
of all, is to hear shootings at night, that go and
come I don't know where they are from, but they make a
big noise.
Photo
Well, let's return to
our climbing to Gasherbrum, analyzing other photo.
Don't forget to see yesterday's photo, to understand
it better. Today's photo was taken from a place around
7,600 m of altitude, so you can see the
"banana" from the height (the tower
over below ), where there are some tents, is
camp 2 at 6,500m, where we didn't stay at. Further
there is a big snow ramp that is interrupted by a
80 m serac (cracks and ice blocks).
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/15/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Base, 5,220m , 54th day of the expedition
A very hectic
day here at base, due to a nice forecast, that says
that there will be good weather until Sunday.
Therefore, many people went up to superior camps to do
the final attack to the summit in the next days. In
our expedition, Pepe Garces and Andrew Lock went as
far as camp 2 ( Hidden Peak), in order to try again.
I am , as you
know, very calm, having some rest for K2. I had a
consult with the Spaniard Xavier Botella, one of the
greatest specialists in Medicine of altitudes in the
world. I had the great pleasure to meet him in 1991 on
Everest, and he has told me that I have a "sub
clinic pulmonary oedema". What disturbs me a lot
is coughing, probably due to a little liquid
accumulation in one of the alveolus in one of my
lungs, such coughing is called the " Everest
coughing" or "mountain coughing " by
Dr. Xavier. But it's not necessary to worry, because
it's a sub clinic case and Dr. Xavier has guaranteed
it's not very dangerous, it's just need some care and
don't let it develop. So, take it easy, no hurry or
panic, because each day resting I feel better.
The lively
Spaniards led by Oscar Cadiach went away yesterday and
also the Englishmen led by David Hamilton. Both of
them very glad, because the success rate was high on
Gasherbrum. Those, who stayed here, have been
frightened by two avalanches, one yesterday and other
today, that came down from Golden Throne (a mountain
located on the other side of the glacier, where is the
base-camp, the Abruzzi). An enormous ice mass has
loosened and came down destroying everything ahead,
forming an enormous smoke cloud that involved all
base-camp. Everybody ran into their tents, holding its
as firmly as possible the frame, while it was possible
to feel the air moving outside and the noise of the
ice crystal on the nylon. The heart, of course beating
a lot, but not so serious, just some empty tents were
taken by the air movement.
And the photo
today is our camp 3 of Gasherbrum, at 7,000 m, from
where we did our last attack to the summit. A nice
landscape for one of the principal mountains in
Karakorum, as Trango Towers, Masherbrum, and
Chogolisa. On the photo Golden Throne appears on the
left and Chogolisa on the right. On the photo appears
Golden Throne on the left and Chogolisa (geometric) on
the right.
Photo
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/16/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Base, 5,220m,55th day of the expedition
Fortunately,
it's a very nice weather today, many people went up
and must try to attack the summit this evening. Pepe
Garces and Andrew Lock are at 7,100m, in our camp 3 at
Hidden Peak, and must leave today at 10:00 pm trying
to get the summit. I'm going to be here at base,
following them in each step by radio, cheering for
them to succeed. There are many alpinists in
Gasherbrum, from several expeditions, that must take
advantage of the good weather to get the summit of
this great mountain.
I expect
anxiously the porters' arrival, foreseen to next 19th,
to go to K2 definitely. I wish to face the
"mountains of the mountains" again. For a
while, we don't have news from K2, the Koreans and
Japanese have barely got camp 3, around 7,400m and the
Italians have just started helping them, because they
arrived later. It means that the situation is not easy
there.
A great
quantity of snow is disturbing the works. K2 is really
a mountain with no comparison, and although it is
around 15 km from Gasherbrum in direct line, the
climbing conditions can be completely different.
I leave you a
photo of our last 300 m on Gasherbrum, that has taken
more than 3 hours to overcome. Let's take as a
reference the big rock tower on the superior part,
almost in the centre of the photo. Over this rock
tower, there is a small ice that raises towards the
sky , the summit is just on the left side of this ice
point. In fact it's a big "cornisa"). And
just on the right side of that tower, it's possible to
see two black spots, they are the two Koreans who
spent the night at camp 4 and arrived at the summit
ahead of us, one of them calls Sang Bae Lee stayed
more than two hours at the summit, waiting for good
weather conditions to fly on paraglider, but the wind
didn't permit.
Photo
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/17/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Base, 5,220m, 56th day of the expedition
We are anxious
to get news from those who are trying to get the
summit of Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak . I hope to
update the news about it today here on K2 on-line.
I take
advantage to leave another photo of Gasherbrum. The
photo shows the view that we have from the summit
towards China. Unfortunately, when we reached the peak
it was winding a lot, we couldn't stand up, and this
wind started bringing a lot of clouds. So, the
landscape was covered and uncovered by clouds
all the time. The mountain I wanted most to see was
K2, but its pyramid rarely appeared very far, amidst
many clouds. Looking at the photo today, K2 should
appear in the back, just a little right of
the rock tower.
Latest News:
Pepe Garces and Andrew Lock reached the summit
of 8,068m of Altitude at Hidden Peak, the 11th
highest mountain in the world, today at 3:45 pm.
They left camp 3, at 7,100 m, at 2:00 am, because
before the wind was blowing too strongly, and they
found a lot of snow on the path. They are the second
ones to reach the summit this year, Abele Blanc and
Christian Kuntner were the first ones (they got the
summit on Jul. 3).
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Update 7/18/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Gasherbrum
Base, 5,220m, 57th day of the expedition
Unfortunately
few people have succeeded to reach the summits of
Gasherbrums this weekend. The expectancy was great,
because the weather was good in fact, but there was
a lot of snow on the path and the wind blew strongly,
principally this Sunday. So, the Spaniard Pepe Garces
and the Australian Andrew Lock have succeeded
yesterday at Hidden Peak. And also, three
Koreans led by Jong Seung Lee, reached the summit of
Gasherbrum yesterday.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Other K2
News:
Hans
Kammerlander attempts the Summit of K2:
Hans Kammerlander best
known in America for his speed ascent of Everest
(standard North Col, to the standard North Col Ridge
Route: 5/24/96, 16 hours 45 minutes from base camp),
has attempted the summit of K2. The unconfirmed reports
Everest News has received, said that Hans and Konrad
Auer attempted the summit of K2 as a two man team.
Everest News has received UNCONFIRMED information that
Hans and Konrad turned around a
few hundred meters from the summit due to bad weather
conditions and huge amount of snow. The fresh
snow was shoulder height and avalanches were occurring
during their ascent. It is reported that Hans and
Konrad are disappointed and they will not make any
further attempts to summit K2 this year. We would hope
they would stay and attempt with Waldemar, however,
that seems unlikely as Hans usually does things
without much support, "the hard way".
Hans
Kammerlander is a "climber in another
league". Clearly, one of the best H.A.
climbers climbing in the world today. Hans, never
does it the easy way, from his speed ascent of
Everest, to the South West Wall of Cho Oyu (as his
first 8000 meter peak), north west route on Makalu, to
his many ski descents among his many difficult climbs
to date. Hans it is believed only has K2 and Manaslu
left to finish to obtain his goal of all 14 8000 Meter
Peaks. Assuming he finishes the 8000 meter
peaks, he will place himself in the elite class of
climbers, not only for the summits 14 summits, but
because of the way he did them. Hans has a chance to
be compared to Messner himself.
Last year,
Hans plans were to attempted the summits of
Kanchenjunga, Manaslu and K2. He was going to try
Kanchenjunga with camps, then he was going to try to
summit Manaslu without setting any camps -- no base
camp or fixed camps along the way. After that, an
attempt at K2 alone.
He made it to the summit of Kanchenjunga on the second
attempt. As reported on Everest News, he then
realized after getting back to base camp that he had
frostbite on his right foot. He went to the hospital
in Kathmandu and then was shipped directly back to
Innsbruck, Austria. He then called off the rest of
expeditions for last year. This
goes to show us all, that under the right conditions,
these 8000 meter peaks can humble even the greatest
climbers in the world.
Update 7/19/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2- Base of Gasherbrum -
5220 m/ Concórdia 4.720m - 58th day of the
expedition
The porters surprised us
yesterday, arriving a day before combined at
Gasherbrum's Base. So, today we started our camp-base
moving We are going to K2 at last. A short walk, only
two days long, that will take us to our great
challenge of the Project K2.
Pepe Garces and Andrew
Lock arrived yesterday very late and tired. So, at the
base, they preferred to rest one more day, before
moving again. Andrew goes back home, because he has
already climbed K2 (the same thing Christian Kuntner
did a couple of days before). Then to K2 rest
just Abele Blanc, Pepe and I.
Today we left the
Gasherbrum's base and many friends we met
last month. It was extremely gratifying to leave
together with Koreans, Spaniards, Englishmen,
Americans, Frenchmen, Austrians and Swiss. Fatally in
K2 new friendships and new emotions will wait for us.
May God permit a happy end!
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
- Hans
Kammerlander Update: Hans'
people (see below) confirm that Hans turned around
and did not make the summit of K2.
We have read your letter
and what you heard about Hans and Konrad is true.
There is no chance to climb to the top of the K2.
Yours, Alpinschule
Südtirol,
Pircher Tanja
Update 7/20/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2- July 20th- Concórdia
4,720m/ K2 Base-camp, 5,100m - 59th
day of the expedition
Dear friends,
I'd like to start this
message very enthusiastically. We arrived at base-camp of
the mountain which does make sense to all project,
and gives the name to this page "K2 on-line"
at Internet. But I sorry to say to you that I'm here,
for the second time, in front of K2, the
mountain I've most wanted to climb in all my life, and
my feeling blends between distress and a big
disappointment.
The news from K2, my
friends, are worse than I could imagine. And I
was walking full of will to get base-camp today, to
talk with the alpinists, to see how the works are. The
weather that we faced was the worst, much fog and
rain, but my enthusiasm renewed recognizing the place
where I had felt big emotions last year and more than
two months of my life. After, we had the so
expected meeting with other expeditions that are
already trying or, have tried to climb K2 this year.
And that atmosphere that had been grey, started to be
black. Bad news, followed by bad news. We met
everybody disappointed with bad weather and a lot of
snow over seven thousand meters. Furthermore, in
Abruzzos Ram, a week ago, a little below camp-1
(6,050m), a stone hit the Romanian's back Mihai
Cioroiano, who died. This death has touched everybody
and it has made alpinists many give up.
Here, among us, is Hans
Kammerlander, a famous Italian alpinist who has
already climbed twelve mountains of the fourteen
mountains higher than eight thousand meters of
altitude in the world (to complete the 14 ones its
missing Manaslu and K2). Kammerlander arrived around
8,200 meters a couple of days ago and said it is
impossible to go on, because the snow reached the
waist or more. Tomorrow he and his team will
start going back home. And when a Hans Kammerlander
speaks that it is impossible to climb K2 this year,
many people believe, and other Italian expedition that
is here will take a ride and starts going back
tomorrow.
Yesterday when Abele and
I arrived in Concórdia, it was funny to know that the
famous German Peter Gegelnos, after climbing Nanga
Parbat this year (also a very difficult mountain over
8 thousand) came to K2, but a day after decided to go
away, because he understood that the conditions were
not favorable. And my big surprise today, I'd
say disappointment, when Abele Blanc turned to me and
simply said that he's going back tomorrow. It's almost
unbelievable, but it's serious!
Someone must be asking:
"And who will want to climb K2 this year? ".
Well, one thing is to want, and other thing is to know
if it is possible. But, let's answer this question
first. There is still a Korean expedition, six
members, who are trying to climb the route called Tomo
Cesen, and have already arrived near 7 thousand.
Besides them , we have
only two other alpinists, a Turkish called Ugur
Uluocak, and a Canadian called Jay Sieger. And taking
into consideration that Spaniard Pepe Garces must
arrive within the next days, because he stayed at the
base-camp resting after climbing Hidden Peak. He and I
add more two.
Who said that alpinist's
life is easy??? Tough my friends, very tough! 'I've I
decided to stay here, for a while. I hope
the weather gets better, take advantage to think a
little, and take a decision within the next days.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2 -
Base-camp, 5,100m, Jul. 21st- 60th day of the
expedition
The weather has kept
very bad today, snow all day long and a dense fog over
the camp. Early in the morning, at 6:00 am, it was
possible to hear the porters murmuring that came
to take those who have decided to go away, almost
everybody. And they began leaving, one by one,
with a sad face sprinkled by snow, mountain down.
Inside each one, surely, there must have a great
relief because they were going back safe. The Italian
Hans Kammerlander passed in front of my tent with
some Austrian friends, and the Swiss Aldo
Verzaroli, the Italians Oskar Piazza, Angelo
Giovanetti, Manuel Lugli and other alpinists, that
I've barely had the opportunity to meet. Yeah, without
forgetting my friend Abele Blanc, who took his
backpack and disappear amidst the mist, as scaping
from a giant that was frightening him. And I was alone
at base-camp, waiting all day long for my friend Pepe
Garces, and hasn't appeared yet (certainly he's still
very tired of climbing Hidden Peak, and as the
weather is horrible, it makes no sense to get here so
quickly)
The atmosphere here is
silence, an immense silence, broken just by some
snowflakes, where each one of us who have decided to
be here, must ask "What to do?" - at least,
I confess everybody who follow K2 on-line, that's the
question that follows us all the time. But, as I said
yesterday, let's wait for good weather, the sun heat
our ideas and then take a decision at the right
time.
I leave you a photo
here, which was taken at 1:00 pm, so that you can feel
what the weather is doing here, cold, wind, snow.
Photo
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2 Base
5,100m July 22nd, 61st day of the expedition
Let's see if you guess
the weather here at K2? If you say wind, snow, cold,
you are right! The weather is terrible! As bad as
yesterday. And confidentially, the enthusiasm here
keeps horrible.
But what worries really,
is the snow that doesn't stop falling. There is
already a lot of snow over 7 thousand meters, and this
snow must go away. For that, the weather needs to get
better, it's necessary a lot of sun and wind. The sun
to compact the snow and wind to send the snow excess
far from the crests (our natural path towards the
heights ). Who went away, believes that it will not
happen this season, i.e., that the big amount of snow
on the superior part of the mountain is an
insurmountable barrier this year. It was said by Hans
Kammerlander, and everybody believe. He
showed a film about his attempt, here at base, where
he appeared at 8.300 meters, at the end of
"Bottle neck" with snow over this waist, an
image to frighten any mortal. According to him, it
will take at least "ten" days for the snow
to get the ideal conditions. It was said before these
horrible days that we had, when more snow has been
falling here. And "ten" days of good
weather at K2, is almost impossible (last year we had
only "four" successive days of good weather
in two months).
That's why, my friends,
I don't leave to say my prayers, burn my incenses,
sing my mantras. My faith in God, is above all
those difficulties that have tried to touch me.
I'm not sure if everything will get better and I will
climb K2, but I know that God will protect my way, or
going to the summit of this big mountain or going back
to my beloved Brazil.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2 -
Base K2, 5,100m Jul. 23rd 62nd day of the expedition
The weather
is better today than yesterday, but only a little bit.
Once more I resisted to awake, hearing the snow flakes
falling continuously all morning long, what had
happened all night long. But at sunrise shy blue
windows appeared on the sky, and a little before
getting dark, K2 disclosed in a whole, perfectly
beautiful, but full of snow.
Today some
of the reliable weather forecast arrived from Spain,
sponsored by Barrabes Shop. Such forecast has
surprised us a lot, because they are very efficient,
and quite sharp. And for the next 5 days we have:
Strong monsoon in India, what involves strong storms
in the centre of Pakistan. Many clouds above all
Karakorum with many precipitation. Strong winds from
South to Southeast. On the weekend the rain and snow
may diminish but without disappearing completely. The
improvement is partial, the clouds will go on. Stable
temperatures, with isotherm of 0 degrees at 4,700m.
And our efficient meteorologist Daniel Ramirez sends
us each days' profile, and until the 27th we'll have
snow daily.
Thus, we go
on waiting, my friends, I confess a little worried.
But, let's wait some more days to see what will
happen. In fact, I'd bet everything to know the
forecast for 28th on, but as I don't have a crystal
ball, I beg God Patience.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2
- Base K2, 5,100m Jul. 24th 63rd day of expedition
We had a
meeting with the Koreans today, in order to join our
forces. Maybe that's the only way to climb K2 this
year. Six Koreans alpinists, Pepe Garces (that arrived
at base yesterday, very tired), I and the American Jay
Sieger and the Turkish Ugur Uluoack were there too.
And that's all!!! i.e., there are just 10 alpinists
rest having the hope to climb K2 this year. I confess
you that we are not a very expressive number, and
moreover if we take into consideration someone's
experience.
The Koreans
are climbing a route called "Tomo Cesen",
shorter and quicker, and it's not more difficult than
"Abruzzos", the same route that we intended
to do. But to do "Abruzzos", Pepe and I
counted on Abele . And counting on other expedition
members' help, who unfortunately have gone away. It
would be necessary to fix ropes (we fixed 2,500 m last
year), besides spending much energy to open the path.
I.e., a tough work, for a good team. And this team for
Abruzzos, unfortunately there isn't anymore. So, the
solution is to work with the Koreans.
The Koreans
have been here since Jun 7th. They have fixed more
than 3,000 meters of ropes at "Tomo Cesen",
setting camp 1 at 6,300m and camp 2 at 7,100m. Well,
if we follow that route we'll be benefited by all the
work they've already done. On the other side hand, the
idea is to do an attack together, and so we can help
them to open path over 7,500m, from where there is a
great amount of snow on . But to use the ropes already
fixed, the Koreans are asking 1,000 dollars each one.
Of course I agree in paying some money but not a
thousand dollars. Well, at that point the meeting was
over, without drawing a conclusion. But, I'm sure that
we'll make a deal in the next days.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2
Base - K2, 5,100 m- Jul. 25th, 64th day of the
expedition
Nothing is better than a
good Sunday for a rest. And the weather has helped
with a little sun. Thus, I took advantage to take a
good bath and wash some dirty clothes.
Pepe and I are calm,
without false expectancies, but avoiding
that some unfavorable conditions touch us. And, it's
very difficult to keep the balance, but we get
it." Take it easy" is all we need, this
patience, day by day re-evaluating our situation, and
trying to make our enthusiasm increase.
Photo
(legenda da foto)
The Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz and the Spaniard Pepe
Garces, at k2's base-camp, at 5,100 m.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2
- Base Jul. 26th, 65th day of
the expedition
We got closer to the
Koreans' expedition last weekend, I'd say,
it was a reciprocal approximation , because we need
each other to conclude the climb of K2. And our
talking was very productive, we don't need to pay
"a thousand dollars anymore" to
use the fixed ropes that they had already fixed, the
turnpike has diminished to "500 dollars".
Pepe and I have no definitive answer yet, if we go
through Tomo Cesen (the Koreans' route) or by Abruzzos
(our initial route).
The weather will really
decide our staying in K2. If it doesn't
stop snowing in the next days, I believe that it 's
not worth to be here. So, let's cheer
the full moon brings a blue sky, strong
sun and much cold. They're the necessary
conditions so that the snow becomes a firm layer,
turning our climbing safe and giving us a chance
for success.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hopes appeared on the
sky of K2, today. We were granted by a beautiful
sunrise and the sun shone all day long and just
lost its purity at sunset, when some bad meaning
clouds, turned to appear. The wind, hasn't stopped
yet, and blew violently on the heights, forming a
typical clouds tail on the high summits.
Pepe and I decided to
stretch our legs. We went to the base of both routes
that interest us, Abruzzos and Tomo Cesen in order to
have an idea about the conditions they are. And our
impressions weren't good. First we were almost caught
by a big avalanche, just at Tomo Cesen's
base, that is a sharp ram that rises about one
hour walking from base-camp. On the left side of that
ram, where the biggest avalanche corridor is
placed, about 7 thousand meters of altitude, there is
an enormous serac (an icy wall about to fall) in
front.
Well, the first 300
meters climbing Tomo Cesen, are completely
exposed to avalanches of that big serac, it means
about one hour and half climbing there is risk
of life. And Pepe Garces, who has already
climbed Tomo Cesen in 1995 up to 8300 meters, didn't
like the enormous quantity of snow over 7 thousand
meters.
After the avalanche
frightening, we went on more one hour and half by
Glacial Godwin Austen, up to 5250 meters, of the
called advanced base-camp where the Abruzzos ram
starts. The impression was very different, but also
negative, it's incredible how Abruzzos, in its
inferior part, is practically without snow, having
a fragile rock ramp . And in the few
minutes that we stayed there,
we saw a big sliding and various stones were projected
down as missiles. It wasn't difficult
to imagine how the Romanian lost his
life weeks ago.
Therefore, we got
a logical conclusion: the most suitable route for our
climb is Tomo Cesen, as the Koreans and their fixed
ropes are already there, but, it's necessary to wait
the snow excess falls mountain down. Let's cheer the
good weather goes on some days more. The most
important is that it stops snowing.
Photo
(legenda da foto)
Waldemar Niclevicz at K2's base-camp, today
morning.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2 -
Base, 5,100m Jul.
28th - 67th day of the expedition
At last the day that I
most expected all long the month has arrived, we have
full moon today, and it is also the day to receive the
weather forecast. The weather seems to help us.
The forecast for the
next 5 days: a big monsoon in India, but no in
Pakistan. Almost no changes all week long, with
reduction in last week's rains and snow. The weather
tendency is to keep stable or variable, but not
unstable. A long fog continues in the centre east of
Pakistan. A new instability appears in the west
of China, that will have no interference in Karakorum.
South and South-west moderate winds and temperatures
stable going up, step by step. Isotherm of 0 degrees
at 4,900 meters. Minimum of 18 degrees on the peaks
and + 2 degrees at 4,800 meters. The temperature goes
up from 3 for 4 degrees on 30th, Friday, when the
clouds may come back.
Well, the forecast isn't
bad. But it is good to remind you that we
need to wait until the enormous quantity of snow gets
harder, that is over 8 thousand meters. The only
negative point is that there will be a hot
week . On the contrary we need cold, much cold,
because with minimum of 18 negative on the peaks, the
snow neither melt nor freeze.
Other point important,
there is no sense Pepe and I climb alone, now it
is necessary to climb all together so that we have
more chances to open path on the snow, towards the
peak. And the Koreans have decide to climb only from
Aug. 6th on. Patience, that's what I beg God. But a
thing we've already decided, if the weather gets worse
next week, we'll desist of our climbing.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
WALDEMAR
NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
K2 -
29th July - K2 Base-camp, 5,100
meters - 68th day of the expedition
It is amazing the
quantity of e-mails that I have been receiving
these days, many of them even asking us to giving up
climbing. I am very happy and thank everybody for
sending those e-mails, I'm trying to answer all of
them. And you can be sure that giving up
climbing at this moment isn't a so bad idea. It's an
enormous relief because, we are going mad with the
uncertainty principally regarding the weather, that
keeps undecided. What worries us too, and
much, it the expectations for a propitious
moment, when we can accomplish our final attack,
hoping to reach the summit. Now, unfortunately, there
is no sense to set camp 1 or 2. Our
idea is to attack in a alpine style, setting up and
untying a small tent every days, always gaining
altitudes, that's why the weather can't be so it must
be terrific!
This consciousness we
need and we expect to keep having it. Much calm, much
patience, because we know exactly what to do.
Here we don't make believe games, our life is and will
always be the most important thing.
Don't miss next Sunday,
The Project K2 at the program "Fantástico"
in the Brazilian Network TV, Rede Glob - unpublished
images of the climbing to Gasherbrum and the attempt
to Hidden Peak.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2-
Base K2, 5,100m Jul 30th, 69th day
of the expedition
A beautiful shooting
team from National Geographic is here at base-camp,
what makes us feel truly a movie character
everyday. They've already interviewed each one of us
at least ten times, and each one of the smart
interviews leads us to think about the expedition aim,
about this immense desire to overcome a real dangerous
challenge, but fascinating.
And then, I draw a
conclusion the bigger the wish, the nearer we get
close of the reality of this dream. And it isn't
craziness! Everybody has dreams, but really few ones
search the this dream accomplishment. This
is, for me, escape from reality. Because these dreams
will never come true. What we do here is exactly the
inverse, we face the reality of this dream, we
give direction to our existence, we give direction to
these wishes that tie us to life itself, and no to
hypothetical delusions. Here we live intensively each
second, here our life depends on the consciousness of
our acts, here the life is the pure reality, where
each of us is here because we feel the blood vibrates
powerfully, because a tear heats our face, because our
smile brings always hopes. Here we don't wear masks
and we aren't actors, here we are just the character
of our own existence. And the mountain isn't our stage
simply and nor a false scenery where we play our
adventure. The mountains raises our feelings,
reveals the true human being in each one of us, with
its magnificence reduces us to nothing.
And inside this
insignificance we understand the human being's value,
the importance of a friend, and our weakness in
front of nature. In fact, we don't step forward if
that big mountain doesn't permit. In fact we don't go
anywhere if we don't believe in ourselves, no dream
will come true if we don't search its accomplishment.
Today, I was doing some
photos for my sponsor and the National Geographic team
shot everything and so they asked me what I was doing
"Photos for those who trust in the
Project K2, it is the minimum I can do for those
whom deposited so much confidence on me".
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
K2,
Base - K2, 5,100m Jul. 31st
70th day of the expedition
Brazil, Brazil, I
miss you a lot!!!
It has been 70 days
since I left home, far from my country, my family and
the person I most love. But the distance makes feel
well, makes me want more what I have and I can
be sure of my feelings and my return day will be very
nice.
These mountains
fascinate me, and I discover that I'm not else than a
pilgrim here, full of faith!
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
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