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 Daily News: 6/15/2000 Report

For  Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000:

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000:  Annapurna 2000:

  • K2 2000: Waldemar Niclevicz 
k20708p.jpg (40312 bytes) Balti Porters  on the  way to K2's base, singing and dancing in Paiju)
Click on this picture: 

Paiju (3370 meters) 13th day of the expedition K2 2000.

When we woke today we were welcomed by a beautiful day with a blue sky and all around us mountains full of snow. We hope this weather follows us to base camp but we realistically know that there will be changes, bad weather, as is the pattern in the Karakoram. 

Today is a rest  day for us, mainly, for the porters. After Paiju, we'll go in  Glacial Baltoro. So,  they'll have enough  time to prepare their chapati (bread), because we'll be on the ice and they won't be able to make fire with wood ( it's need  to burn the chapati on fire to be good.)

The porters also take advantage of the  day to relax and at night they join in teams of more than 100 men, forming a big circle, where, inside, they dance alone or in couples, accompanying  the beats of a improvised drum.  We can have a good time, too.

To take all our load to the base, we have exactly 143 porters. But, as in Paiju we are gathered with others 2 expeditions, the numbers of the porters is over 300.

I apologize by  my short messages While I'm  walking , I can't recharge batteries, so it's  need to be short.

Waldemar Niclevicz

Project K2 is sponsored by O Boticαrio, TAM, Net Vνrtua and SportsJα.

Update: 14,200' Camp on Mount McKinley; There was more heavy snow but the forecast for tomorrow is good and we plan to move to 17,000'. This is a difficult day with a climb of a 2000' head wall after which we will be on a very exposed ridge. We MUST get it right! This was reinforced in our minds when an Armenian climber fell yesterday at 17,000' and was helicoptered out at midnight yesterday.

Power for the computer has died and we are unable to send or receive emails. Thanks to all who have sent messages of encouragement. These are much appreciated even 'though we are unable to reply.

Gavin Bate

PS: Expect a Summit Attempt on Thursday or Friday ! 

  • Revised: A partial Year 2000 expedition list for the Pakistan Mountains

Expedition Name 

Leader 

Mountain 

Brazilian International Expedition 2000

Waldemar Niclevicz 

K2 

USA International Expedition 2000 

Gary  Pfisterer

K2

Japan K2 Expedition 2000 Ms. Terawsawa Reiko K2

Japan Workers Alpine Federation Expedition

Kondo Kazuyoshi

K2

Korean Expedition 2000 Wi Yeong Kim K2
Korean K2 Expedition 2000 Park Seong K2
Romanian K2 Expedition 2000 Bogdan Cuibus K2

Belgium Expedition 2000

Mangelschots Guy

Nanga Parbat

Italian Messner Expedition 2000

Reinhold Messner

Nanga Parbat

Korean Millennium Expedition 2000

Hong Ki Kun

Nanga Parbat

Slovak Focus International expedition 2000

Jiri Novak

Nanga Parbat

Spanish Nanga Parbat expedition 2000 Roben Dramendiaperes Nanga Parbat
Swiss Nanga Parbat Expedition 2000 Erhard Loretan Nanga Parbat
International Focus Expedition 2000 Daniele Tonani G I

Spanish Expedition 2000

Felix Inurrategui

G I

Venezuela's Proyecto Cubmro Expedition 2000 Jose Delgado G I

UK Jagged Globe Expedition 2000

David W. Hamilton

Broad Peak

Nazuka Hideji Nazuka Hideji Broad Peak

German International Expedition 2000

Hans Eitel

Broad Peak

Greece Hellenic Alpine Club Expedition 2000 Katrivanos Ioannis Broad Peak
Hungary Broad Peak Expedition 2000 David Klein  Broad Peak
Italian Focus Expedition 2000 Renato Moro Broad Peak

Japan Workers Alpine Federation Expedition

Kondo Kazuyoshi

Broad Peak

Korean Broad Peak Expedition 2000 Park Young Beok Broad Peak
Slovakian Republic Army 2000 Expedition Jan Matlik Broad Peak

Sweden Expedition 2000

Roger Reinhold

Broad Peak

UK Jagged Globe Expedition 2000

Andrew J Lock

G II

French Expedition 2000 Le Touze Joel G II

French Expedition 2000

Denis Chatrefou

G II

German Amical alpine Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000 Ralf Dujmovits G II
German Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000 Peter Guggemos G II

Greece Hellenic Expedition 2000 

Theodore Papagiannis

G II

Italian Focus International Expedition 2000

Mr. Manuel Lugli

G II

Scottish International Expedition 2000

Henry Todd

G II

Spanish Banoa Expedition 2000 Carlos Garranzo G II
Spanish GII Banoa Expedition 2000 Francisco Asis Chavarri G II

Swiss Expedition 2000

Kari Kobler

G II

Swiss Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000 Michal Ziegler G II
Swiss Gasherbrum II  Expedition 2000 Karaz Marcel G II
Venezuela's Proyecto Cubmro Expedition 2000 Jose Delgado G II
USA & UK Rakaposhi East Face Expedition 2000 Adrian Burgess Rakaposhi

Spanish Expedition 2000

Jose Carlos Tamayo

Chogolisa

Switzerland Expedition 2000

Simon Perritaz

Istoro Nal

Spanish Skilbrum Expedition 2000

Luis Maria Cobo

Skil Brum

USA Ogre Expedition 2000  Douglas K. Chabot Baintha Brakk

Italian Expedition 2000

Nicolo Berzi

Diran Peak

Japan Alpine Club Expedition 2000 Hosoda Ichiro Diran Peak
Spanish UEC Grace at Karakorum Expedition 2000 Pascual Garriga Marti Diran Peak

 

UK New Heights Diran Expedition 2000 Mr. Simon A. Yates Diran
Himalayan Association of Japan Spantik Expedition 2000 (HAJ Spantik Exp. 2000) Mr. Iwazaki Hiroshi Spantik
Spain Baltoro 2000 Luis Maria Cobo Spantik
USA/Russia Spantik 2000 Expedition Lev loffe  Spantik
Italian Ogre II Expedition  2000 Giordani Mourizio   Baintha Brakk III
Japan Mountaineering Expedition 2000 Mr. Minamii Hedehiro Dir Gul Zom
Great Britain Expedition 2000 Scott Elbourne Drifica Peak
Italian Nameless Tower Expedition 2000 Hans Kammerlander Nameless Tower

German/Switzerland Expedition 2000

Micheal Richter

Trango Tower

Japan Tetsuwan Alpine Club Expedition 2000 Motomu Omiyya Latok V
Japan Ketac Expedition 2000 Nakayama Hideki  
Russia Way to Latok III Expedition 2000  Alexander Odintsov  Latok III
USA Latok I North Ridge 2000 Expedition Thomas G. Nonis Latok I

Details/and a couple more ! Russia Way to Latok III Expedition 2000  is called the "Big Walls - Russian Way". The goal of expeditions - new Russian routes on the famous Big Walls. You can check their page in RISK http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html They will be four members and doctor Michail Bakin. The members are Alexander Odintsov - the leader, Yuri Koshelenko (as well as Odintsov,  took a part in all the climbs of this project as in Russia and Troll Wall, Bhagirathi III and Trango Tower), Alexander Ruchkin (took a part in Russian climbs - 4810 peak and Ak-Su -  and Troll Wall) and new member Sergei Efimov. They are started to Pakistan yesterday. RISK is going to cover this expedition. The pages for Latok III at the moment in Russian only http://www.risk.ru/rus/projects/bigwall/latok/index.html The English version will be ready in a days. The Spantik International expedition official site of expedition is www.spantik.com (Italian and English), but it will send you to RISK for more news in English and for the Russian version http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/spantik/index.html 

We also have the information for one more expedition to Pakistan, Russian/American one. 

The dates are from July 1st till August 25th. 

The staff is the same as two years ago on Changabang North Wall: Carlos Buhler, Ivan Dusharin, Andrei Volkov, Andrei Mariev. The challenge of expedition is the exploration of two valley - Nangma and Charakusa. The main object of climb is Shingu Charpa (5800m) via North Buttress. Source: Risk www.risk.ru 

New Books ! 

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