Balti Porters on the way to K2's base, singing
and dancing in Paiju)
Click on this picture:
Paiju (3370 meters) 13th
day of the expedition K2 2000.
When we woke today we
were welcomed by a beautiful day with a blue sky and all around us mountains
full of snow. We hope this weather follows us to base camp but we realistically
know that there will be changes, bad weather, as is the pattern in the
Karakoram.
Today is a rest
day for us, mainly, for the porters. After Paiju, we'll go in Glacial
Baltoro. So, they'll have enough time to prepare their chapati
(bread), because we'll be on the ice and they won't be able to make fire with
wood ( it's need to burn the chapati on fire to be good.)
The porters also take
advantage of the day to relax and at night they join in teams of more than
100 men, forming a big circle, where, inside, they dance alone or in couples,
accompanying the beats of a improvised drum. We can have a good
time, too.
To take all our load
to the base, we have exactly 143 porters. But, as in Paiju we are gathered with
others 2 expeditions, the numbers of the porters is over 300.
I apologize by
my short messages While I'm walking , I can't recharge batteries, so it's
need to be short.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Project K2 is
sponsored by O Boticαrio, TAM, Net Vνrtua and SportsJα.
Update: 14,200'
Camp on Mount McKinley; There was more heavy snow but the forecast for tomorrow
is good and we plan to move to 17,000'. This is a difficult day with a climb of
a 2000' head wall after which we will be on a very exposed ridge. We MUST get it
right! This was reinforced in our minds when an
Armenian climber fell yesterday at 17,000' and was helicoptered out at midnight
yesterday.
Power for the computer
has died and we are unable to send or receive emails. Thanks to all who have
sent messages of encouragement. These are much appreciated even 'though we are
unable to reply.
Gavin Bate
PS: Expect a Summit
Attempt on Thursday or Friday !
Revised: A
partial Year 2000 expedition list for the Pakistan Mountains
Expedition
Name
Leader
Mountain
Brazilian
International Expedition 2000
Waldemar
Niclevicz
K2
USA
International Expedition 2000
Gary
Pfisterer
K2
Japan
K2 Expedition 2000
Ms.
Terawsawa Reiko
K2
Japan Workers
Alpine Federation Expedition
Kondo
Kazuyoshi
K2
Korean
Expedition 2000
Wi
Yeong Kim
K2
Korean
K2 Expedition 2000
Park
Seong
K2
Romanian
K2 Expedition 2000
Bogdan
Cuibus
K2
Belgium
Expedition 2000
Mangelschots
Guy
Nanga Parbat
Italian
Messner Expedition 2000
Reinhold
Messner
Nanga Parbat
Korean
Millennium Expedition 2000
Hong Ki Kun
Nanga Parbat
Slovak Focus
International expedition 2000
Jiri Novak
Nanga Parbat
Spanish
Nanga Parbat expedition 2000
Roben
Dramendiaperes
Nanga
Parbat
Swiss
Nanga Parbat Expedition 2000
Erhard
Loretan
Nanga
Parbat
International
Focus Expedition 2000
Daniele
Tonani
G
I
Spanish
Expedition 2000
Felix
Inurrategui
G I
Venezuela's
Proyecto Cubmro Expedition 2000
Jose
Delgado
G
I
UK
Jagged Globe Expedition 2000
David
W. Hamilton
Broad
Peak
Nazuka
Hideji
Nazuka
Hideji
Broad
Peak
German
International Expedition 2000
Hans Eitel
Broad Peak
Greece
Hellenic Alpine Club Expedition 2000
Katrivanos
Ioannis
Broad
Peak
Hungary
Broad Peak Expedition 2000
David
Klein
Broad
Peak
Italian
Focus Expedition 2000
Renato
Moro
Broad
Peak
Japan Workers
Alpine Federation Expedition
Kondo
Kazuyoshi
Broad Peak
Korean
Broad Peak Expedition 2000
Park
Young Beok
Broad
Peak
Slovakian
Republic Army 2000 Expedition
Jan
Matlik
Broad
Peak
Sweden
Expedition 2000
Roger Reinhold
Broad Peak
UK
Jagged Globe Expedition 2000
Andrew
J Lock
G
II
French
Expedition 2000
Le
Touze Joel
G
II
French
Expedition 2000
Denis
Chatrefou
G II
German
Amical alpine Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000
Ralf
Dujmovits
G
II
German
Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000
Peter
Guggemos
G
II
Greece
Hellenic Expedition 2000
Theodore
Papagiannis
G II
Italian Focus
International Expedition 2000
Mr. Manuel
Lugli
G II
Scottish
International Expedition 2000
Henry Todd
G II
Spanish
Banoa Expedition 2000
Carlos
Garranzo
G
II
Spanish
GII Banoa Expedition 2000
Francisco
Asis Chavarri
G
II
Swiss
Expedition 2000
Kari Kobler
G II
Swiss
Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000
Michal
Ziegler
G
II
Swiss
Gasherbrum II Expedition 2000
Karaz
Marcel
G
II
Venezuela's
Proyecto Cubmro Expedition 2000
Jose
Delgado
G
II
USA
& UK Rakaposhi East Face Expedition 2000
Adrian
Burgess
Rakaposhi
Spanish
Expedition 2000
Jose Carlos
Tamayo
Chogolisa
Switzerland
Expedition 2000
Simon Perritaz
Istoro Nal
Spanish
Skilbrum Expedition 2000
Luis Maria
Cobo
Skil Brum
USA
Ogre Expedition 2000
Douglas
K. Chabot
Baintha
Brakk
Italian
Expedition 2000
Nicolo Berzi
Diran Peak
Japan
Alpine Club Expedition 2000
Hosoda
Ichiro
Diran
Peak
Spanish
UEC Grace at Karakorum Expedition 2000
Pascual
Garriga Marti
Diran
Peak
UK
New Heights Diran Expedition 2000
Mr.
Simon A. Yates
Diran
Himalayan
Association of Japan Spantik Expedition 2000 (HAJ Spantik Exp. 2000)
Mr.
Iwazaki Hiroshi
Spantik
Spain
Baltoro 2000
Luis
Maria Cobo
Spantik
USA/Russia
Spantik 2000 Expedition
Lev
loffe
Spantik
Italian
Ogre II Expedition 2000 Giordani Mourizio
Baintha
Brakk III
Japan
Mountaineering Expedition 2000
Mr.
Minamii Hedehiro
Dir
Gul Zom
Great
Britain Expedition 2000
Scott
Elbourne
Drifica
Peak
Italian
Nameless Tower Expedition 2000
Hans
Kammerlander
Nameless
Tower
German/Switzerland
Expedition 2000
Micheal
Richter
Trango Tower
Japan
Tetsuwan Alpine Club Expedition 2000
Motomu
Omiyya
Latok
V
Japan
Ketac Expedition 2000
Nakayama
Hideki
Russia
Way to Latok III Expedition 2000
Alexander
Odintsov
Latok
III
USA
Latok I North Ridge 2000 Expedition
Thomas
G. Nonis
Latok
I
Details/and a
couple more ! Russia Way to Latok III
Expedition 2000 is called the "Big Walls - Russian Way". The
goal of expeditions - new Russian routes on the famous Big Walls. You can check
their page in RISK http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/bigwall/index.html
They will be four members and doctor Michail Bakin. The members are Alexander
Odintsov - the leader, Yuri Koshelenko (as well as Odintsov, took a part
in all the climbs of this project as in Russia and Troll Wall, Bhagirathi III
and Trango Tower), Alexander Ruchkin (took a part in Russian climbs - 4810 peak
and Ak-Su - and Troll Wall) and new member Sergei Efimov. They are started
to Pakistan yesterday. RISK is going to cover this expedition. The pages for
Latok III at the moment in Russian only http://www.risk.ru/rus/projects/bigwall/latok/index.html
The English version will be ready in a days. The Spantik
International expedition official site of expedition is www.spantik.com
(Italian and English), but it will send you to RISK for more news in English and
for the Russian version http://www.risk.ru/eng/projects/spantik/index.html
We also have the
information for one more expedition to Pakistan, Russian/American one.
The dates are from
July 1st till August 25th.
The staff is the same
as two years ago on Changabang North Wall: Carlos Buhler, Ivan Dusharin, Andrei
Volkov, Andrei Mariev. The challenge of expedition is the exploration of two
valley - Nangma and Charakusa. The main object of climb is Shingu Charpa (5800m)
via North Buttress. Source: Risk www.risk.ru
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