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 Daily News: 6/28/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000:

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000:  Annapurna 2000:

  • USA International K2 Expedition 2000 

    Leader : Gary Pfisterer

    K2 8611m Abruzi Ridge 

Update: Just a quick message to let you know four Koreans topped out yesterday 26 June at about 1:00 pm.  They left a high camp III at 1:00 am on 26 June.  They had fairly good conditions, a bit of wind in the morning but it settled. This team of ten arrived in Base camp late in May.  The other six members set off yesterday 26 June for Camp I and will continue camp by camp to make a summit attempt which should occur early in the morning on the 29th. This team is unsupported and on the SSE Spur.  Don't have names or other bio info. 

Also another small Japanese team is rolling into BC.  I think they are planning to attempt the Abruzzi which is getting a bit crowded now. There is a ten person Japanese team currently on Broad Peak.  I think they got to Camp IV on the 25th and are back in BC now resting before a summit attempt.  They will continue on Broad Peak until the end of the month and then descend to Piaju before coming up to K 2 base camp to attempt the Abruzzi.  Weather thus far has been exceptional and conditions on the hill are such that maximum progress can be made, limited only by carrying loads, fixing the route and acclimatizing.  All the best.

Cheers, Gary   

P.S.  Nasuh is very keen on next years project.  Heading up the hill 29 June to try to get Camp III established,  I should be back with another report on 3 July.  If everything continues to go well we should be in a position to begin making summit attempts around the 6th or 7th of July.

Editorial Note: In Autumn of 2001 we have plans for a great expedition that would involve Gary, Nasuh, and other Everest climbers. The climb would be an attempt at a first ascent. Much more on this expedition in the coming months. We are looking for sponsors but at this point all climbers would be Everest summiters and pay their own way. We are looking of a team of 12 climbers who has reached the Summit of Everest from 12 different countries. Gary is the expedition leader. 

  • K2 2000: Waldemar Niclevicz 
Dawn at Camp 1 (6050 meters) the small space between our two tents (red ones), two Koreans' (green - Orange) and one American (Orange)

Click on the picture !

Camp 1 (6050 meters) / Camp 2 (6500 meters) 25th day of the expedition K2 2000

Going to Camp 2

Those grey clouds that filled the sky did not discourage us. Today in the morning we followed towards the summit of K2, up to Camp 2, placed at 6500 meters. We have cross many vertical parts and faced more rocks pathways, the climbing has become more technical and  has demanded more effort mainly due to loosen rocks that could roll and hit  the colleague climbing below us. Next to Camp 2, Marco and I fixed 80 meters of ropes, obeying the original route plan made in 1998, because the option, chosen by the Koreans, faces a vertical part of rock that did not please me due to its "exposition to emptiness" (nasty part of the climb) and the need effort to overcome it.

After getting Camp 2, we have fought against the wind to set the other tent to be used by our Pakistanis friends who follow us as porters: Meherban and Hassan (in fact two alpinists). 

Waldemar Niclevicz

Project K2 is sponsored by O Boticαrio, TAM, Sportsjα and Net Vνrtua.

  • New Books ! 

"The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine," by Tom Holzel & Audrey Salkeld, Pimlico/Random House (UK), The Mountaineers (USA) Available Now

Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest

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