Update: Just a quick message to let you know four Koreans
topped out yesterday 26 June at about 1:00 pm. They left a high camp III
at 1:00 am on 26 June. They had fairly good conditions, a bit of wind in
the morning but it settled. This team of ten arrived in Base camp late in
May. The other six members set off yesterday 26 June for Camp I and will
continue camp by camp to make a summit attempt which should occur early in the
morning on the 29th. This team is unsupported and on the SSE Spur. Don't
have names or other bio info.
Also another small
Japanese team is rolling into BC. I think they are planning to attempt the
Abruzzi which is getting a bit crowded now. There is a ten person Japanese team
currently on Broad Peak. I think they got to Camp IV on the 25th and are
back in BC now resting before a summit attempt. They will continue on
Broad Peak until the end of the month and then descend to Piaju before coming up
to K 2 base camp to attempt the Abruzzi.
Weather thus far has been
exceptional and conditions on the hill are such that maximum progress can be
made, limited only by carrying loads, fixing the route and acclimatizing.
All the best.
Cheers, Gary
P.S. Nasuh is very
keen on next years project. Heading up the hill 29 June to try to get Camp
III established, I should be back with another report on 3 July. If everything continues to go
well we should be in a position to begin making summit attempts around the 6th
or 7th of July.
Editorial Note:
In Autumn of 2001 we have plans
for a great expedition that would involve Gary,
Nasuh, and other Everest climbers. The climb would be an attempt at a first ascent. Much more on this expedition in the coming months. We are
looking for sponsors
but at this point all climbers would be Everest summiters
and pay their own way. We are looking of a team of 12 climbers who has reached
the Summit of Everest from 12 different
countries. Gary is the expedition leader.
K2 2000: Waldemar
Niclevicz
Dawn at Camp 1 (6050 meters) the
small space between our two tents (red ones), two Koreans' (green - Orange) and
one American (Orange)
Click on the picture !
Camp 1 (6050 meters) / Camp 2
(6500 meters) 25th day of the expedition K2 2000
Going to Camp 2
Those grey clouds that
filled the sky did not discourage us. Today in the morning we followed towards
the summit of K2, up to Camp 2, placed at 6500 meters. We have cross many
vertical parts and faced more rocks pathways, the climbing has become more
technical and has demanded more effort mainly due to loosen rocks that could roll and
hit the colleague climbing below us. Next to Camp 2, Marco and I fixed 80
meters of ropes, obeying the original route plan made in 1998, because the
option, chosen by the Koreans, faces a vertical part of rock that did not please
me due to its "exposition to emptiness" (nasty part of the climb) and
the need effort to overcome it.
After getting Camp 2, we have
fought against the wind to set the other tent to be used by our Pakistanis
friends who follow us as porters: Meherban and Hassan (in fact two
alpinists).
Waldemar Niclevicz
Project K2 is sponsored by O
Boticαrio, TAM, Sportsjα and Net Vνrtua.
A
Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond by
Jim Whittaker, Tom Hornbein (Introduction), Edward Kennedy (Foreword), John
Glenn (Foreword) Availability: This title usually ships within
2-3 days.
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