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 June 98 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 6/30/98 Report

  • Interviews: We have several. Most are being confirmed or being held because we have told risk we will wait to release information on Fran & Sergi until after them. HOWEVER, we have several more interviews to conduct. If you have questions you would like asked, submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net ASAP.
  • South Summits: Nepal is still reporting 43 summits (Jeff Rhoads once not twice), we still have Jeff as twice (therefore 44 summits). If you are a friend of Jeff's or his team you might ask that they contact us or Nepal. For Nepal is official as 43 !!!
  • As far as Mark Jennings death, if you read Craig John interview below, it should answer many of your questions. We have found no dirt here, just a climber that died after giving his all. We agree it is strange this death has not been widely reported. EverestNews.com would speculate that climbers are fearful of talking about these deaths after ITA.
  • K2 three teams? We have no information that the Swiss or Italian teams are going for K2, they might, we just don't know that they are so we have not added them yet. No one has seen Woodall yet...many are seeking answers from him on the Everest events...
  • K2 details: What we know is that, Waldemar was the first to arrive at base camp and no one else was at base camp at that time. The weather was very bad (24- 26th) and the climbers made a decision to give up trying to climb the Magic line. Our source said, the conditions are out of control, there are avalanches all the time, usually at the end of the day. It would be impossible to cross the Negrotto Col without facing one. So they will try to summit via the traditional route (Abruzzi Spur- the South-East Face. On Friday they were at Abruzzi's base (ABC) at 5,250m.

Daily News: 6/29/98 Report

  • Some of our people are back, others are still on the road, but on the way back.
  • No News on David Lim. We seem to receive what is a standard reply that our message will be forwarded to David? But no response from Allison Lim. Let's all hope for the best.
  • We are receiving updates from K2 which hopefully we can post SOON. The reports we are receiving is that there are only the three teams, we have told you about, but this is NOT confirmed at this point.

Daily News: 6/20/98 Report

  • At the time of Wally Berg's "record time at the summit report", it was reported to EverestNews.com that there was another climber (s) that was on the summit for more than three hours. The source said they would confirm the information and report back to us. The source has confirmed that Waldemar Niclevicz (who is currently climbing K2) and Mozart Catao stayed on the summit 3 hours and 10 minutes. We understand Waldemar made an video during much of this time. Waldemar Niclevicz still wants his record.
  • EverestNews.com have gotten out our passports and are hitting the road for the next week. We planned a week in both June and July to let the web designers work on the site and for site maintenance. Therefore, we are taking this time to conduct as many interviews as we can. Daily updates will return on the 27th or 28th. NEWSFLASHES will continue to be reported as necessary. We are not sure how often the discussion forum will be updated during this time. Initially the web site was huge and very pretty, however it ran like a one legged dog ! Therefore, the site was cut...and cut some more. The web designers hope to add some legs back, but we told them it must be fast...
  • Several interviews should be posted upon our return (and maybe sooner) with hopefully closure on some issues.
  • EverestNews.com has not received a reply from Allison Lim from our request for more information you requested. However, we understand the Singapore site has including information on David's condition...
  • You can find a link to those Everest book reviews on the Bookstore page.
  • EverestNews.com new book review is: Everest, the West Ridge Thomas F. Hornbein / Hardcover / Published 1980.Submit those reviews. We would also like for you to review the IMAX film. The bookstore site has added a two Mountaineering book pages, K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

UPDATE 6/19/98 12:01PM EST US

  • David Lim: What EverestNews.com knows is this : "David Lim, the Singapore expedition leader is now in hospital suffering from a rather serious illness.", this message was sent by Allison Lim a reporter covering the Singapore Expedition. Please check  the Singapore web sites for updates. Their links are on the 98 expedition link page. This update is posted in response to several persons inquiring about David's condition. Yes, we have asked all the questions.

Daily News: 6/19/98 Report

  • The alpinist Fausto De Stefani has succeeded in climbing all 14 8000 meter peaks in his ascent on Kangchenjunga on May 15th. This was his third attempt on Kangchenjunga. Fausto De Stefani, while little known to the general public here in American, ranks somewhere up there with Diemburger, Messner and Bonnington among those who have become influential in mountaineering on an international basis. Fausto De Stefani has completed the 14 8000 meters peaks - but with a little less fanfare than some of the others., Update, it was found later that one of his Summits (Lhotse) is disputed because some say that he did not reach the True Summit of one of these peaks. Therefore, he has one to go.
  • You might be wondering why we have not posted some of the other interviews. EverestNews.com would like to get Fran's death "straight". We feel there are loose ends that need resolved, therefore we are getting out our passports and heading out for the road. Therefore, we are holding the interviews and will post them later. When in doubt wait.
  • K2: Waldemar and others are going by jeep from Islamabad to Skardu in the middle of the Karakoram Highway. The Karakoram Highway is a road that crosses all the north part of Pakistan till China. The road runs beside the Indo river. Then the expeditions will travel by jeep on a secondary road until Askole, where they start walking until Base Camp. (see NEWSFLASH below). Usually this trip from Islamabad to Skardu is done by plane, but with all these nuclear bombs tests and discussion involving Pakistan and India the fights in this area were cancelled more than two weeks ago. It's because the route passes near the India border and it seems once India shot down a plane with 48 passengers. That's why fights are cancelled. We think it a situation that all climbers moving to Skardu and base camp will face...

NEWSFLASH UPDATE 6/18/98 8:32M EST US

  • EverestNews.com has received HORRIBLE NEWS from K2, see below.
  • Two persons from Waldemar Niclevicz's  K2 team died yesterday (Wednesday 17th) and three are severely injured. The accident happened in Askole, at Indo River Valley .  12 jeeps from  the expedition were going up on a line (one following the other) to the base of  K2 in a very steepy road when the first jeep from the group lost its direction and fell down into the river. All the five persons (2 dead and 3 injured) were Pakistanis.  The jeeps were transporting all the climbers equipment.   It's a very dangerous road, very narrow and sinuous. Twenty porters were going on the jeeps (the other 80,  it will be like 100 of them) were already in Askole (which is 2800m). Waldemar told us that although the jeeps drivers were very skilled, since the beginning he was some worried because they drive very fast in these dangerous roads. In many spaces the road is kind of sculpted in vertical rock walls with minimum passageways. and sometimes the inclination of the road gets to 45 degrees (and always with a scaring abism beside ...). The climbers asked the drivers to go slower but after few time they used to accelerate again. Waldemar said it was all very sad. Many porters are relatives and suddenly at the bottom of the abism everybody was crying trying to rescue the bodies. The expedition team is having a hard emotional time but I think somehow this accident will keep in their minds that you just can't take unnecessary risks (climbing K2 is a risk enough). As the Pakistanis says, "Insha Alα", which means something like "hope lord everything is going to be alright". This report is from a source very close to Waldemar, his K2 link is on our K2 links page, please check for more information.

Daily News: 6/18/98 Report

  • If you have not read EverestNews.com interview with American climber Craig John, go here.
  • Jochen Hemmleb two papers have been posted at this site. The first research paper, "Second Step - Unraveling the Mystery", was issued in 1994, with update in spring 1995. It summarizes the first six years of research and the current knowledge about the Second Step at that time. It was very gratifying for me when excerpts of this paper appeared in the revised edition of "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine" by Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld (the book that started everything), therefore bringing the work round full circle.  A new update is to be expected later this year, as new clues have emerged. It will also address itself to hitherto unresolved questions of the mystery.  The second research paper, "Where are you know, Pete & Joe?", is attempting to resolve some open questions surrounding the disappearance of Boardman & Tasker on the North-east Ridge in 1982. Research for this took on a very personal note and brought up an important point: that the history of Everest is as much about the mountain as it is about the climbers attempting it. Pete & Joe were among the most vivid characters of those, and anyone who read their books and that of Joe's girlfriend, Maria Coffey, can't help but missing them...
  • It is being reported to EverestNews.com that the alpinist Fausto De Stefani has succeeded in climbing all 14 8000 meter peaks. More on this story on Friday.
  • The Monsoon entered Nepal last Saturday.

Daily News: 6/17/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com interview with American climber Craig John

    THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.

    Craig John reached the summit of Everest from the North side this year on 5/25/98 as part of the American expedition to Everest this year. Craig was carrying a flag for Matthew Randall the little boy with cancer. Craig is a part time guide on Mt. Rainier. This is part of the continuing story of Craig John’s climb for Matthew Randall.

    We are posting this raw. Because we want you to read it as we discussed the climb and the events surrounding these deaths with Craig. Therefore, this interview is not "cleaned up" (as you will see). A few items has been held back, the "willy" story, and some details about Fran and some private conversations. This is our webmaster and Craig talking as two people do (all over the place), so follow along. We think you will learn much of what happened. This was a very personal interview between two people that have an extensive knowledge of Everest and the events of Everest 98.

    We will say Craig John is one Great guy and One great Climber. And he DID IT !!!!!!!

    Q. Have you seen Matthew since you got back?

    A. Yes, I meet with his mother, her parents and Matthew. He is really a nice kid. He seems to be doing better. But I am still worried about him, let’s hope all works out. I gave them the flag I carried to the summit for Matthew. It was a nice time.

    Q. Tell us about your earlier Everest experience?

    A. Yes this was my second attempt on the North side.

    Q. Tell us about summit day.

    A. It was a great summit day! Alex was with us until about 27,600 to 27,800 .. the yellow band... We had really good weather. I climbed in 7 hours and 15 minutes spend 15 minutes on top, and then it took me 2 hours and 45 minutes to get (down) to 27,000 feet. I then descended to ABC at 21,000 feet that day. I got to ABC at 6:45 that evening.

    Q. How far did you get on you first attempt in 94?

    A. 28,000 feet, the 1st step.

    Q. We have heard from some climbers, that seeing Fran’s body sitting there made them quite sad and that it affected their ability to go on.

    A. I heard about it (her death) the day before. We lost someone in 94....I not immunized, but it did not shock me. I have been climbing for 20 years. People die when people make mistakes and people die when people don’t make mistakes. On summit day, I was going to the top....a dead body was not going to stop me...

    Q. Tell us about your use of oxygen.

    A. I used oxygen from the North Col.....I was very sick as you know...I was not acclimatized well....

    Q. Who did you use for Sherpa support?

    A. We used Great Escape...great cooks...we have been using them for a long time on all these expeditions.

    Q. Any more plans to go to Everest?

    A. Not at this point, I have other plans for other mountains, that I would like to go. Eric has a permit for 2000, but I not sure if he is going next year, I don’t think he has a permit. You know Eric got to 30 feet below the summit again. But he did summit once, but close many times. I am sure glad he made it once.

    Q. What about the South side?

    A. Given the opportunity, I would like to do the south side of Everest.

    Q. What do you know about Hahn and company turning around?

    A. He saw clouds and strong winds. He needed to make a good decision because he had a client with him.

    Q. Have you guided much?

    Yes, mainly at Rainier, but on Everest in 94 and other places also. Both clients this year did not summit.

    Q. We are working with the Russians to answer and ask some questions from them during our interviews.

    A. Sure I understand.

    Q. We would like to know the exact place where Fran is situated. It has been reported to us that she is right under the first step.

    A. That’s right. She is right at the huge rope, under the first step, right on the route. She is sitting by a rock.

    Q. Did you see Sergi's ice axe and rope.

    A. No, but I really didn’t look.

    Q. Oxygen bottles?

    A. No, but I really did not look.

    Q. Did you check Fran.

    A. No

    Q. What aid was done by the South Africans. We heard she (Fran) was off route....?

    A. Yes, they told us she (Fran) was off route and below the first step, they pulled her up to the first step.

    Q. You mean they pulled her up the mountain not down?

    A. Yes they told us they pulled her up to put her back on the route.

    Q. So that confirms she was off the route and their movement of her was correct.

    A. Yes.

    Q. Do you know of any witness to Fran death?

    A. No

    Q. What about the Uzbekistans?

    A. I heard they were around, but I don’t know much. We know the South Africans tried to help her and of course her husband.

    Q. Why risk it all? The question every armchair climber wants to know.

    A. Someway, I don’t feel this. I don’t feel like I am doing that, the sites and views are incredible. It is an incredible experience to summit Everest. It is worth it. What an experience !

    Q. But isn’t death a real probability on Everest North side?

    A. I will say it is a possibility, but not a probability. I think one’s years of experience help minimize the risk of the possibility. I have been climbing for 20 years, that experience helps minimize the possibility. For those that are not experienced climbers, sure it is a real probability on Everest.

    Q. Mark Jennings, you know we know and we were asked by Russell (Brice) to wait and we did wait for 17 days or so, we actually reported last night.

    A. If Russell says you should wait, you should wait. I understand and that was good of you to wait when asked. Mark was a nice guy.

    Q. Let’ s talk about Mark.

    A. He was the first person to leave camp that day, but seemed to be having problems, a real hard time. Mark was about 1 1/2 hours behind me on reaching the summit... He was having a real hard time, his breathing, his Sherpa keep telling him to turn around...He was very slow on the way up...His Sherpa gave him all of his oxygen (the Sherpa’s)... I met him, when I was coming back from the summit... I told him to make a smart decision, He asked me How far to the summit? I told him it is a ways. I told him you need to make a smart decision, make a good decision Mark. I did not tell him directly to turn around. I told him to make a smart climbing decision. The Sherpa told him to turn around and kept telling him to turn around. He made it back down to high camp and actually went to our tents.... One member of our team told him, No your tent is down there, He said, OK.

    Q. Did the Sherpa stay with him?

    A. Yes, all the way back, but the Sherpa keep going back (down) to get more oxygen for him. He kept going back to the tents to bring more oxygen over and over, what he (the Sherpa) did was incredible. The Sherpa did this several times !!... The Sherpa spent the night with him at the high camp in the tents. Mark got up said he felt pretty good, walked a few feet and sat down and died and that was it.

    Q. Was there bodies brought down from Everest, as some are suggesting.

    A. No, it is too high up to bring bodies down.

    Some private conservation here .. Very sad about Fran and how she died, we plan on a summary report on Fran and will probably report some of this information here. We both agreed VERY VERY sad news about Fran, and frankly EverestNews.com is having a hard time deciding how far we want to report her death. To report or not to report?

    Q. Tell us about the light snow cover this year.

    A. Very light, no snow in some places, a lot of rock. However, in one spot there was a lot of snow and the route had to be changed there. There were a few bodies visible but not like everywhere but there were several.

    Q. Was the light snow cover a major factor in success this year? You know we are reporting what must be a record number of summits this year.

    A. No I really did not know there was that many summits this year ... about other teams.. But I think the number of people this year was the main reason. There has never been this many people before...experienced people.....there was 18 expeditions, now some were one man expeditions and the route was very good this year, that was a major factor.

    Q. Did you learn that the India, Russians and these other team supported by Asian trekking put up what has to be record numbers this year.

    A. No, not really, we were away from them most of the time.

    Q. How does it feel?

    A. You know Matthew is a nice kid with a nice family. I felt good doing this for him.

    Q. How far was Sergi’s tent from where Fran’s body is...

    A. Sergi’s tents were at 27,000 feet ... so there is about 1,000 feet difference.

    Q. Who else reached the summit the same day as yourself?

    A. There were ten of us: Danuru Sherpa and Lhakapa Rita Sherpa, Sumiyo Tsuzuki, Russell Brice, his Sherpa, and Mark Jennings and his Sherpa, and two Uzbekistan climbers. (he did not say himself, but it was understood.)

    Q. Do you know Mark’s Sherpa name?

    A. No, Mark and I talked a lot. A lot about the use of oxygen. He was a nice guy.

    Q. Did you have any contact with Roger Buick? No I had no contact with him on summit day, he went up the next day. I talked a lot with him before that day...on the 26th.

    Q. Yes that is what we were told, he would have started his climb after you came to ABC because you went all the way down in one day.

    A. Yes, that is correct.

    Q. Was there a rescue attempt?

    A. No rescue attempt.

    Q. Humm (Pause, not intentional, just thinking).

    A. About 10 people told him to stop and turn around. He disagreed with them and kept going. He did not seem to know what was going on.

    Q. Joao Garcia, has reported to us that he was suffering from High altitude sickness.

    A. I don’t know, you would assume, I did not see him.

    Q. He was climbing under Russell’s (Brice) permit.

    A. Yes.

    Q. And Mark also.

    A. He was climbing under Russell’s (Brice) permit but had his own Sherpa, and support at base camp. Roger had no sherpas.

    Q. So how does it feel to be over? It must be great.

    A. Oh, Yea! This was years in the works, I did Cho Oyu in 95, but this definitely is the BIG ONE! (change in his voice tone, excited.) This was my 6th Himalayan trip. Some has not been successful for one reason or another on some of these trips. I am 2 for 6.

    Q. What else would you like to tell us?

    A. Well Ang Rita Sherpa’s boys were on Russell’s team, one or two of them, I’m not sure.

    Q. Any news on Ang Rita Sherpa this year ?

    A. No he was not on the North side. He must have went to a different mountain.

    Q. What else?

    A. The number of expeditions, when I was here in 94, there was only 8 expeditions, it was bizarre to see so many.

    Q. Why were the Americans so late in getting to the summit, we heard you and others were sick.

    A. We got a later start. We needed to get acclimatized. We also put up a new fixed line up to the North Col. And I was sick.

    Q. Well we hope to see you carry Matthew’s flag again.

    A. Any thing I can do to help Matthew and the family I will. I would ask others to help in any way that might be right for them to help Matthew.

    If you have not read the Craig John/Matthew Randall Story please do.

Daily News: 6/16/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is reporting Mark Jennings as the other death on the North Side of Everest this spring. We have sat on this news for what seems like weeks, and it is time to report what we know. His memorial service is Saturday in Paris. Mark, like Roger Buick, was sharing a permit with Russell Brice's but was not part of Russell's expedition. Russell asked us specifically, to wait to report this news because "the next of kin, they do not have e-mail and need to receive details in a more conventional method", but now we feel it is time to report and time for the story to come out. Once again, we have family members wanting to know what happened. What we know is that Mark reached the summit on the morning of the 25th and was climbing with a Sherpa. It is has been reported to EverestNews.com that Mark died on decent the 26th. He was climbing with oxygen. No cause of death is being reported.
  • Detailed information on Mark's death will be posted within the next 24 hours.

Daily News: 6/15/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com has added more links to the 98 Autumn, 1999 Everest Expeditions Links page. Craig Calonica, who plans to ski down Everest and climbing Everest with him will be Jordi Tosas (Spain) who plans to snowboard down Everest.
  • Jochen Hemmleb: Born in 1971, Jochen is at present a student of geology at the J.W. Goethe-University of Frankfurt, Germany. His interest in Everest started back in 1988, after reading "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine" by Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld. Initially focusing only on the British pre-war attempts and the mystery itself, his research soon expanded to include the whole Tibetan Side of Everest, i.e. expeditions to the North and East Faces. To this date, Jochen's private "Everest Archive" contains about 40 books, some 2000 pages of reports and photographs as well as 25 hours of video related to the topic. Jochen is also an active mountaineer, having climbed extensively in the European Alps and East Africa (Mt. Kenya and Ruwenzori). He has traveled widely in Europe, Africa and New Zealand. Among his other interests are photography, journalism and astronomy. Currently, Jochen is busy seeking support for his own attempt to search for Mallory & Irvine. The outlining of this project will appear on this site later this year.
  • Jochen will have two papers posted at this site (soon). The first research paper, "Second Step - Unraveling the Mystery", was issued in 1994, with update in spring 1995. It summarizes the first six years of research and the current knowledge about the Second Step at that time. It was very gratifying for me when excerpts of this paper appeared in the revised edition of "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine" by Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld (the book that started everything), therefore bringing the work round full circle.  A new update is to be expected later this year, as new clues have emerged. It will also address itself to hitherto unresolved questions of the mystery.  The second research paper, "Where are you know, Pete & Joe?", is attempting to resolve some open questions surrounding the disappearance of Boardman & Tasker on the North-east Ridge in 1982. Research for this took on a very personal note and brought up an important point: that the history of Everest is as much about the mountain as it is about the climbers attempting it. Pete & Joe were among the most vivid characters of those, and anyone who read their books and that of Joe's girlfriend, Maria Coffey, can't help but missing them...
  • EverestNews.com second book review is The Climb : Tragic Ambitions on Everest - Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews !!! The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 6/14/98 Report

  • Josie Kieran (Ireland): It is our understanding that it has been reported (again) that Josie was lost and in trouble on Everest. If you recall (or check our South side news), there were also reports at the time that Josie was lost, however, her team reported to us at the time that she was not lost, which we confirmed with other teams. Josie has now told us herself that she was never alone nor in trouble at any time. This has been confirmed independently by EverestNews.com from Sherpa climbers that were with her on Everest, so we have no reason to doubt her words. Josie had no knowledge of our conversations with the Sherpa climbers when she was interviewed. Her story checked out 100%. Josie also is a very religious person. Josie has asked us to wait to publish our first interview with her until after the Ireland national news publishes her interview with them. We will have more on part one and part two (which we hope she will grant us) of our interviews with Josie in the next few weeks. But we wanted to clear up the facts !
  • Interesting story on Alan Silva. Alan (36) an Australian, is an engineer living in Singapore. He officially listed himself as from Singapore, with the Nepal government, on his successful summit. Most climbers list where they are born on their record with Nepal, unless he was actually born in Singapore, which would make him the first person from Singapore to summit Everest. Anyway, everyone really seemed to enjoyed climbing with Alan. We believe we will hear from him again on Everest.
  • It has been reported to us, but not confirmed, that Ginette Harrison is the first British woman climber to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. She earlier reached the summit of Everest and now sources are telling EverestNews.com she is thinking about K2.
  • Amazon has opened their music store.! Please purchase your music from Amazon though our links (any of them) on our site, so EverestNews.com can get credit for the sale. The new store is built with the help of tens of thousands of suggestions from Amazon customers. The music store has the same foundation as the bookstore: great selection (ten times as many CDs as the typical music store) and everyday low prices (savings of up to 40%--big enough that you save even after shipping costs). Amazon have  worked hard to make it easy to discover music. You can browse through nearly 300 styles ranging from Alternative to Zydeco (everything but Classical, which is on the way) or use "Essentials" (my favorite feature) to learn about the best CDs to help you start or build a collection in a particular style.  And you can reduce guesswork by listening to some of our 225,000 song clips. PLEASE SUPPORT OUR SITE BY BUYING YOUR BOOKS & MUSIC HERE THROUGH AMAZON
  • No are still trying to confirm much information about the North side Everest deaths.

Daily News: 6/13/98 Report

Daily News: 6/12/98 Report

  • Editorial Comment: In case you are having a hard time reading this information about Fran & Sergei. Let us draw the picture for you. The leader of the Uzbekistan expedition reported that two of his climbers gave up their summit attempt to help Fran & Sergei, and were recorded as heroes. The leader then reported that these two climbers reached the summit in the next few days. Now we learn the two climbers did not GIVE UP THEIR SUMMIT ATTEMPT TO assist Fran & Sergei but went to the summit and left Fran & Sergei to ....   Other times on Everest, climbers have gone to the summit instead of giving up their summit attempt to help others, but we know of no case where their leader has done what it appears he has. The leader doesn't want to answer questions now.... EverestNews.com in an Editorial statement earlier told you something smells wrong on Everest. Some were critical of our statement, judge for yourself. Let hope the silent climbers continue to talk and let's  get the truth out in the open. Some climbers don't want to get involved, but should people be painted as false heroes, if you know the truth !!! EverestNews.com believes the truth is getting harder to hide in the information age !!! The risk comment "absence of human morality". Please review the risk news at http://www.risk.ru/himal/reconstr.html .
  • Other News: It has been reported to EverestNews.com that six members of the German expedition lost all their feet fingers with frostbite climbing Makalu; this is the part of the same group that was to go to Everest. No deaths reported.
  • Jochen Hemmleb "pages" will be added in the next few days to the EverestNews.com site. If you don't know Jochen you will.
  • Official South Side Summits: EverestNews.com has received the official list of south side Everest summits from Nepal. It is the same as we have posted on the summit page except that we are listing Jeff Rhoads as reaching the summit twice. Nepal only has him listed once, but they have Tashi Tshering listed twice. All we can figure out is Jeff's second summit was not reported to them or that two climbers the with the name Tashi Tshering (and the same age) reached the summit, which seems unlikely. EverestNews.com has contacted Nepal....the rest is official. Everest is never simple.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews !!! The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 6/11/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is attempted to help risk confirm information about these deaths but many climbers do not wish to talk about the deaths at all, some are talking SLOWLY. The latest information on the risk site is very discouraging based the earlier reports that the Uzbekistan team leader reported. In summary Grigoriev and Fedorov, who they earlier reported to have stopped to help Frances, now are reported to have continued on the summit and not returned to help her until 20:00. The Uzbekistan team leader earlier reported that Grigoriev and Fedorov made a second summit attempt and reached the summit on the 27th when in fact according to risk, they have been on the summit on the 23th, confirmed by other members of the expedition. Grigoriev and Fedorov have been removed from our summit page, for now until we can confirm it they indeed did reach the summit. Please review the risk news at  http://www.risk.ru/himal/reconstr.html .
  • Editorial Comment: Sometimes the News is not want you want, and it makes you not feel like writing anymore. We will write more on Friday or bring you a late update later today.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews !!! The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 6/10/98 Report:

  • Once again, as far as the first summit attempt on the South side, EverestNews.com still stands by its story of  5/19/98 11:04 AM EST US " Sherpa climbers refused to go on last night from the south summit citing dangerous snow conditions, coupled with numerous inexperienced climbers, many of which were running short on energy." EverestNews.com reported this on 5/19/98 at 11:04 AM EST US. EverestNews.com has confirmed this information with members from different teams on the mountain and feels this issue is as we reported back in May. As we stated yesterday, this decision in   hindsight, based on the number of climbers that had difficulty descending from where the group turned around, SAVED LIVES that night on Everest, in our opinion. Did this decision cost some from reaching the summit of Everest, we will never know.
  • Roger Buick Update: The information we have received about Roger's death is still sketchy - it has come from friends of his family and climbers that was on Everest that day, but each time a question is answered, it seems to raise another one.  What we know: Roger was climbing on his own on the north face. The family friends are reporting that he died on Tuesday, 26th May, others are reporting to us that he died on Wednesday May 27th. He had informally teamed up with other climbers but was not officially part of any group.  He was climbing on ropes he had paid others to leave dangling for him and was found slumped over his bag, secured to a fixed rope at around 7,300 to 7,400 meters.  His face was buried in the snow, his pack was open and his drink bottle in his hand. The light on his headgear was smashed, perhaps suggesting something fell from above and hit him - but this is conjecture and the cause of death has not been disclosed. Roger was about 100 meters short of the camp to which Sherpa had carried his gear earlier in the week.  However, the other man (climbing independently of Roger) whose gear had also been taken up by the Sherpa changed his mind at the last minute and didn't make the climb. In a breakdown of communication, both men's gear was removed from camp and taken back down the mountain. Descending climbers tried to tell Roger his gear was not waiting for him but he continued to ascend, probably suffering from effects of altitude and hypothermia.  He never reached camp but had he, there would have been no gear waiting for him anyway. It has been confirmed that other climbers descended past Roger that day while he was alive, one climber has reported to us that Roger seems to be suffering from High Altitude Sickness, in climbers terms, was Roger was crazy.  Roger was spotted with a telescope while climbing and was spotted when he stopped climbing. No rescue attempt has been report to us to have occurred for Roger from family nor climbers, but we are still interviewing climbers. It is believed Roger died alone on the mountain.

    Another climber, climbed back up and cut Roger's body free. The friends of his family are telling us that there are no plans to recover his body - his final resting place is about as perfect as it could be.  Everyone who knew him agrees - it had to have snow and it had to be scenically beautiful.  Everest has both.

    For his 50th birthday two years ago, he climbed Mt McKinley alone, as a present to himself.  After Everest, he planned to head to Kilimanjaro later this year.  Roger loved the outdoors and loved coaxing other people to share in its delights. A memorial service was held on Sunday in Sydney on Middle Head, jutting out into the beautiful harbour.  It was a glorious sunny day, drawing some 200 people to celebrate Roger's life.  Many of his friends spoke of the adventures he had taken and shared with them. It continued to dusk and was just the way Roger would have wanted it - lots of people, lots of dreams and memories, lots of positive thoughts in a beautiful outdoor setting.  It's hard to believe he won't be back but as his brother Don Buick said , "We could never see him as an old man.  It wouldn't have suited him at all.  He lived life to the full and went out in a blaze of glory doing what he loved doing." Source: friends Of Roger Buick and other Everest climbers interviews

  • Update on the Polish 98 Expedition to Everest: They ended up postponing the trip until 1999 due to the injury that Richard Pawlowski sustained on a winter climb to Nanga Parbat.  He was hit by rockfall while coming down a couloir that broke his plastic boot and his leg. The wound was pretty substantial and he had to be evacuated via a helicopter to Islamabad. They expected the injury to heal in time for the Everest bid, but that was not to be. They therefore made the hard decision to postpone until next year, and that is the reason you haven't heard much about them from Everest this year. Richard is doing well now, and will be going to Broad Peak at the end of this month. This fall they will be back in Nepal for an attempt at Makalu and Ama Dablam. You can find their link on our Everest 98 links page.
  • An Irish 98 expedition has been added to the K2 links page, see the index below.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews !!! The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 6/9/98 Report

  • "Mark" has been added to our Summit Page, as his summit has been confirmed by several sources to EverestNews.com. He died on the decent on the 26th of May.
  • As far as the first summit attempt on the South side, EverestNews.com still stands by its story of  5/19/98 11:04 AM EST US " Sherpa climbers refused to go on last night from the south summit citing dangerous snow conditions, coupled with numerous inexperienced climbers, many of which were running short on energy. " In hindsight, based on the number of climbers that had difficulty descending from where the group turned around. These Sherpa actions along with, one would assume Eric Simonson agreement, to  turn around unquestionably  SAVED LIVES that night on Everest.
  • K2 links page is completed, see the index below.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews. The best review comments will be posted for others to read.  Submit book suggestions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  page.

Daily News: 6/8/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com have confirmed that Josie Kieran (Ireland) attempted the summit on 25 May with Lily Leonard & Jim Williams, but they all turned back from the South Summit and descended on May 26th. Lily Leonard is a US citizen that is a Hong Kong resident. Jim Williams is a famous US mountain guide.
  • Our K2 link page should be posted by Tuesday, check the index below.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews. The best review comments will be posted for others to read.  Submit book suggestions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • The bookstore site has added a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal book  page.
  • Autumn Everest 98 attempts: The French and Japanese has reported to us that they plan on having attempts to reach the summit this fall.

Daily News: 6/7/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com believes this was the safest Everest year ever, so far percentage wise. The final totals will need to come in to see if the number of official summits pass 1993. However, there were 8 deaths in 1993. Check out our summit page and statistics page to see for yourself. Many were predicting record numbers of summits due to the light snow cover, but it appears the records occurred mainly because of the experienced teams and support Sherpa (Asian trekking) on the North side combined with the good weather. Far fewer south side summits than expected this year.
  • EverestNews.com received information today that Babu Chhiri Sherpa plans on sleeping at the summit of Everest next year !!! We hope to bring you more on this story soon.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews. The best review comments will be posted for others to read.  Submit book suggestions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • The bookstore site has added a K2 book page and an ice climbing page. Several more pages hopefully will be added in the next few weeks.

Daily News: 6/6/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com has not confirmed any more climbers reaching the summit of Everest. Right now we believe our South side list on the Summit Page is complete. The North side list is missing some Sherpa (and some Chinese names) that were on various teams that just reported their climbers. Late summits might still occur the North side, but very few climbers are on the mountain at this point.
  • EverestNews.com book review forum is done. Please check the bookstore site and submit those reviews. The best review comments will be posted for others to read.  Submit book suggestions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • The bookstore site has added a K2 book page. Several more pages hopefully will be added in the next few weeks.
  • EverestNews.com is interviewing and will be interviewing several Everest 98 climbers. If you have questions of the climbers please submit them to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.

Daily News: 6/5/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is still trying to confirm "late" summit reports.
  • For those of you that are asking about the "fourth death" on the north side of Everest, the death is confirmed.
  • A special fund has been set up for the child (Lhakpa) of Chantal Mauduit and the children of Ang Tshering Sherpa, her Sherpa friend that died with her. The aim of this association is to continue financing the studies of the children and to improve living conditions and education in the villages of these children. Your gifts should be made out  to  "Chantel Mauduit Namaste" and sent to: Association Chantal Mauduit Namaste 56, Street of the Suburb St Antoine 75012 Paris, France 
  • Chantal was the only woman to summit K2 without the use of bottled oxygen. She attempted Everest 7 times without the use of bottled oxygen and sadly failed all 7 times.
  • EverestNews.com plans to post its book review forum in the next few days as part of our bookstore site. The best five book review comments, within a week period on a selected book, will be posted for others to read. One book will be reviewed per week. Submit suggestion to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.

Daily News: 6/4/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is receiving "late" summit reports and attempts. We hope to bring you confirmation soon !
  • EverestNews.com is following the Danish Gasherbrum Expedition 98 which has been added to our list below. This experienced Danish group has some very serious climbing plans this summer. We encourage you to follow them along.
  • EverestNews.com plans to post its book review forum in the next few days as part of our bookstore site. The best five book review comments, within a week period on a selected book, will be posted for others to read. One book will be reviewed per week. Submit suggestion to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
  • Many have been asking questions about the German expedition attempts on the North Side. What we know is that the German expedition planned on attempting Makalu first, then Everest. It appears the Everest attempt was mostly abandoned with only a few climbers coming to Everest. We have no reports on any of these German climbers reaching the summit at this point. However, a few climbers were reported at high camps.
  • It appears the death of Arsentiev-Distefano had an effect on many climbers attempts at the summit. Climbers are reporting to us, that when they got to the point of where her body lay, many just could not go on. This combined with a increase in the wind, as we reported to you, made successful summits drop off significantly.
  • On Roger Buick, we understand from sources that he was climbing using "others ropes", meaning he was paying for "others" to leave their ropes so he could use them as he followed up the mountain. According to sources close to Roger, person(s) at ABC saw Roger stop climbing while attached to a rope at 7000 meters. The next day climbers descending, cut him down from those same ropes. He was only at 7000 meters. 
  • EverestNews.com will be interviewing several climbers "on and off the record" in the next several weeks, so check back. Daily updates will continue.

Daily News: 6/3/98 Report

  • Please check our the EverestNews.com Summit Page, it has been updated and we think you will like it. Please do not copy it to other sites.
  • Roger Buick memorial service will be held at Middle Head (3:30PM), in Sydney for all those that are interested. Roger owned a company called Alpine Experience where he specialized in ski adventures. He was to be married soon, and his wife to be almost went to Everest with him. He had a daughter. More later.
  • We have at least two teams planning on late summer/fall attempts. We plan on adding  a K2 page per your requests. Please send in you information on teams and links for us to list. We will not have "reporters" on K2.

Daily News: 6/2/98 Report

South Side Update 6/2/98 US 

  • EverestNews.com has updated the South Side summits page. We think you will like it. EverestNews.com will soon start reporting late Summer/Fall attempts. 

North Side Update 6/2/98 US

  • The News of Roger Buick (52), a Australian living in New Zealand, is being confirmed to have died on the North side by many news sources around the world. Roger was climbing on the North Side on the same permit as Russell Brice's team   (Himalayan Experience Everest Expedition). Roger was reportedly not part of Russell's expedition, he was climbing alone. Other details are sketchy, however it is believed he died at around 7000 meters. It has been reported to us that Roger Buick died last Wednesday...
  • Check back soon.

Daily News: 6/1/98 Report

South Side Update 6/1/98 US 

  • EverestNews.com is reporting 44 summits by the south route this year, with no deaths. See our list on the summits page. 

North Side NEWSFLASH Update 6/1/98 4:41PM US

  • EverestNews.com is receiving reports that no members of the International North Side 98 Expedition reached the Summit of Everest as of May 28th. Reports state some members reached between 7750 to 8600 meters.
  • Check back soon.

North Side Update 6/1/98 US

  • EverestNews.com is receiving reports that there are still several climbers on the North Side. Information is getting very difficult to receive because most teams have left the mountain.
  • The names of last two climbers that reportedly died are not released at this time. The News cannot be reported until such time as these names and deaths are officially reported and confirmed.
  • As we all agonize over these last two deaths. EverestNews.com ask you to put aside your anger for awhile and consider supporting Matthew Randall, the little boy with cancer. It is very sad but we cannot bring back those that have died. Hopefully we can partially understand what happened with time. But Matthew is till with us, we all have a chance to help him  NOW. Please visit his page and consider giving. Craig John has reached the Summit of Everest from the North side for Matthew. Wouldn't it be great if Matthew had the chance to climb Everest someday! Let's try to give him that chance.

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