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EverestNews.com
will receive reports from three Expeditions on K2 this
year. (Page
down was the latest updates.)
Update
9/4/2001: Romanians only planned to trek and stay K2
base for 30 days. They came with a big sponsor. They
did not have climbing permit. But due to a
fight, the wife left BC with the guide and a man. She
left the base camp leaving all the equipment there.
There was more fighting between the two in Skardu. But
finally now they are in back in Islamabad and waiting
for the flight back home...
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/16/2001: EverestNews.com has been told by a source
(not our normal sources) that the Romanians have a
permit to climb K2. This would explain what the Czechs
saw when they left K2 BC. We are trying to confirm
this...
Update
8/6/2001: Peter Guggemos says good bye to high
altitude climbing. After attempting K2 on July 22
Peter Guggemos leader of International German
Expedition to K2 says good bye to high altitude
climbing. Now he is planning to concentrate on his
construction company and play golf.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/31/2001: Christian Trojmmsdorff from France return
back from K2 unsuccessfully. it was too dangerous and
I decided to come down.. Without Sherpa or Oxygen it
is too risky. Christian climbed Everest on
May 22 from North Col this year without Oxygen and he
did Cho Oyu in 1997 too.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/25/2001:
Hello EverestNews.com, It is right when we summit and
went down to camp 4 our one member named Park young do
(30 years old). He actually didn't summit but nearly
did. (He turned around 150 meters from the summit.)
When he went down the last fix rope it was nearly camp
4. He fell down the right side (to south east east
ridge route) and was missing about 7 P.M. on 22nd July.
We
couldn't find his body on the way down after that
weather became bad. The wind was so strong. So, we stopped
to find body and the next day also so bad weather. It
was very hard and dangerous for our members on the way
down. On the way down camp 4 - camp 3 snow face,
another member fell down 50 meters. But it was very
lucky she stopped and was not hurt and so on....
It was a nightmare to go down with many sick members
during bad weather. Strong wind like a storm.
We
could down all to basecamp 24th night.
We
can't search anymore. So we stop.
Anyway.
We leave basecamp 27th July.
bye.
Park young seok
Update
7/25/2001:Dear
EverestNews.com, regards from K2 BC. Here are the
answers of your questions
"Yes
One Korean fell down. He was on the way down, but not
from the top. He decided to go down on the way up. He
fell down somewhere around bottle neck."
Can
you tell us more? "Three Koreans reached the top
and their two Nepalese sherpas. Hans
Kammerlander and Jean Christopher Lafaille from Int.
group and two Spanish Carlos and Pepe."
also
did 9 Summit ? "Together 9 people" [Not 10}
Does
the family know yet ? "We don't know this."
With
best regards Josef Simunek Czech Himalaya 8000
Update
7/25/2001:
K2, Korean expedition: One dead, and according to the
Czech team some other Korean climbers still above base
camp. Things do not appear to be good on K2.
The
Czech Expedition have told EverestNews.com that their weather forecast
from the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute: there is
possibly rising-form monsoon situation near K2! Note:
Our weather forecast significantly different than the
free other sources.
The
Korean climber who died fell: "I know that
Kammerlander during his descent after the summit, he
witnessed the fall of a Korean climber - who had
reached the summit with a companion - in the
bottleneck. No other detail so far. I'll keep you
posted. Best regards Manuel, Focus Expeditions"
The
others Koreans were coming down expecting good weather
(based on their forecast) and got caught in the storm.
The Czech Expedition have told EverestNews.com, "2 Korean
men are back in BC; 1 man - ABC; 2 man - C2 (both
sick, snow blindness and brain dropsy); and 1 Korean
man died near C3. Korean expedition wants leave BC
7/27/2001. :-( Weather is very bad, all expedition
wait in BC. Hans Kammerlander and Jean Ch. Lafaille
are back into BC. I will send interview with J.Ch.
Lafaille!" [Note this was about 5 hours ago at
5:44 am in America, we were told this. Things change
fast....]
Things
do not appear to be good... on K2... We are leaving
much of these reports in RAW form, as things are
somewhat unclear.
It
should be noted: The Korean Expedition has not
mentioned any problems to date ! Their last e-mail
today simply said: "We leave k2 basecamp 27th July
. and 30th Skarudu . 1st Aug. Islamabad and 6th Aug.
arrive Seoul. best regard basemanager
kim hyoung woo"
Update
7/24/2001: K2, the best information we have right
now...
EverestNews.com
believes, based on the best information we have right
now, the order of K2 Summiters were: Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille summited at 2:30, next the
Spanish climbers (Carlos Pauner and Pepe Garces) and
then the Koreans. Others seem to reporting the same
details on the Koreans Summiters as EverestNews.com.
It is unclear if any of them has received reports or
are just using EverestNews.com's information.
The
Korean report again: "Mr. Park young seok and Kang seong
gyu, Oh hee jun and
two Nepali Serap Jangbu Sherpa
and Pasang Sherpa summitted today (22nd July) at P.M
2:40. They spent 13 hours on the way to summit. They
start A.M 1:40. He [Park young seok]
finished the 14 peaks this time. Other members (3
members and 3 high porters) are waiting in camp 4
for summit attempt tomorrow. best
regard, Base camp manager kim hyoung woo"
Note
this report was received by EverestNews.com from
Mr. Park young seok's base camp manager kim hyoung woo
as stated.
Jean
Lafaille
is reporting that one Korean climber has died. The
report is now also in the papers in Europe. The report
on another web site stating that Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille summited late in the evening
appears FALSE again.
Details
will become clearer, hopefully, in the coming days. If
you have been wondering why we have been counting who
is coming back to base camp, now you know why....
This
is not new, as 22 of K2 Summiters have died descending
from the Summit, only Everest has more deaths on the
way down from the Summit.
Update
7/23/2001: Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille bivouac on the way down
?
Sources
tell EverestNews.com that Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille apparently bivouac high on K2
on the way UP and the way Down the mountain (after
their Summit)! It is believed to be at 8000 meters or
above where they spent the night. We say believed
because we are not sure people know for sure. However,
there
does not appear to be concern since this is Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille.
Update:
Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille are now back at BC and are
reported as fine.
Update
7/23/2001: Today Monday 07/23/01 at 15.00 pm Spanish
time (18.00 pm local time) Pepe Garces and Carlos
Pauner have safely made it back to K2 Base Camp, after
their Summit success. Best regards Pedro Lopez
Update
7/23/2001: Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille are reported to have summited
K2 via the Cesen route.
It's
confirmed at 20.00 pm Spanish time that Pepe Garces
and Carlos Pauner had safely descent to Camp 4 Sunday
07/22/01. They will descend to Base Camp today. Best
regards Pedro Lopez
Update
7/22/2001: The Czech expedition to
K2 has reported to EverestNews.com that 2 members
of the International expedition (Hans Kammerlander and
Jean Christophe Lafaille) have reached the Summit of
K2. We have NOT received confirmation from the
expedition yet.
NEWSFLASH
Update 7/22/2001 8:22am in America:
Mr. Park young seok and Kang seong gyu, Oh hee jun and
two Nepali Serap Jangbu Sherpa
and Pasang Sherpa summitted today (22nd July) at P.M
2:40. They spent 13 hours on the way to summit. They
start A.M 1:40. He [Park young seok]
finished the 14 peaks this time. Other members (3
members and 3 high porters) are waiting in camp 4
for summit attempt tomorrow.
best
regard, Base camp manager kim hyoung woo
NEWSFLASH
Update 7/22/2001 6:48am in America:
Some
minutes ago, today 07/22/01, at 12.15 pm Spanish time,
Carlos Pauner and Pepe Garces from Spanish K2
expedition have reached the K2 summit 8611 m.
Carlos
had summitted at 11.30 am and Pepe at 12.15 pm. The
last part of ascent was difficult due to deep snow, more
than 1 meter. Both are descending to Camp 4.
Probably they will try to continue to Camp 3. The weather
is changing and there is some clouds, so the second
assault with Javier Barra and Javier Perez probably
must be delayed. More info at k2.redaragon.com Best
regards Pedro Lopez
NEWSFLASH
Update 7/22/2001 4:49am in America:
The
last report from Mila Pauner, Carlos Pauner's wife
from Base Camp K2 9.30 am. Spanish time Pepe Garces
and Carlos Pauner alongside with some Koreans members
are at 150 m. below K2 summit. They are now well above
bottleneck and is supposed that in 2 hours will stand
at the summit. The weather remains good. Source
k2.redaragon.com Best regards Pedro Lopez
More
on the Spanish K2 expedition at k2.redaragon.com
Update
7/21/2001: Very recent news ... Some hours ago
07/21/01 20.00 pm Spanish time, the Spanish
channel Antena3TV had contacted with Base camp Spanish
K2 expedition. The actual situation is Pepe Garces and
Carlos Pauner are in Camp 4 at 8050 meters resting and
preparing the final assault to K2 summit. The weather
looks well and the plans are to depart at 00.00 am
local time 08/22/01. No info about Korean members but
we supposed they are at Camp 4 as well. Javier Barra
is actually at Camp 3 and Javier Perez must retreat to
Base Camp due health problems. Best regards,
Pedro
Update
7/21/2001: With the necessary equipment (tents and
ropes) the Spanish K2 expedition will depart from Camp
3 to Camp 4 (8.050 m.) They plan to arrive there at
noon. 22nd July plan: Summit assault from 00.am They
will bring 150 m. kevlar 6 mm. rope to fix the
bottleneck and the traverse over 8300 meters. The Koreans
members will use oxygen bottles, but the Spanish
members not. Javier Barra and Javier Perez will begin
one day later (20th July) to support. The weather
forecast provided by Koreans members expects two good
days (22nd and 23th) and the conditions will be
deteriorating by 24th July. Best regards Pedro Lopez
Update
7/19/2001: "We will go up to summit tomorrow 20th
July from base camp and try 22nd July. 3 members [of
the Korean expedition] and me are first team and other
5 members will try the next day. The weather is very
clear now until 23th. Today 3 members of first team
went up camp 2. Below camp 1 all of the fix rope was
covered with snow and 1 tent was broken in camp 1. The
camp 2 tent was fine. We will make camp 3 tomorrow and
camp 4 (8060 meters) on the 21st. And on the 22nd we
will try summit."
"We
found a dead body on the way from base camp to ABC. I
think it is more than 10 years already gone. It seem
to be a western guy. Long hair, brown color,
small foot. He/ she weared safety belt (it is old
model - black diamond old style) and ring carabiner
(silver color, only ring is green color auto lock
style). It seem to be a woman but not sure. and
I find 1 koflach [?] shoe with foot and nothing else.
So We bring to memorial camp and keep in stone."
best regard, Park young seok
Update
7/19/2001: Spanish K2 expedition Update: 13th July:
Javier descented from Camp 2 to Base Camp due to bad
weather.
July
13th - 17th: Bad weather in Base
Camp:
July 17th, 15cm of fresh snow. Some concerns about
equipment at Camp 2. The weather forecast predicts
some improvements for 21-22nd July, so that day it's
planned for begin the final assault... Best regards
Pedro Lopez
More
on the Spanish K2 expedition at k2.redaragon.com
Update
7/15/2001: We made camp 3 at 7300 meters. We now rest
in Base camp. We are just waiting for good weather.
When the weather is good we will go up to summit, and
we will set up camp 4 at 7900 meters. The weather
report say the weather will be bad until July 20th. So
maybe around the 25th we will try to summit !. (I
hope.....) Anyway the other teams here (Spanish -same
route . Germany. France. Czech) are also in Base camp
for few days. maybe more..... best regards Young seok.
Park.
Update
7/13/2001: 07/10/2001, the Spanish K2 expedition lead
by Pepe Garces has established Camp III at 7400 meters
on the Abruzzi Ridge. Best regards Pedro Lopez
The
French climber Jean Christophe Lafaille who is attempting K2 by the very difficult South Face on an
Solo Attempt. He is part of the Focus Expedition that
is attempting South East
Abruzzi Ridge. He has come down after several days up
high. You can follow his reports in French here. Jean
has 6 8000 meter Summits to his credit to date
including Manaslu North face.
Note
as K2 heats up will will bring you more reports from
K2...
Update
7/11/2001: Javier Barra and Javier Perez are resting
at Camp 2 (6700 meters) trying to push to Camp 3. Best
regards Pedro
Update
7/9/2001: Spanish Expedition K2
Members:
Pepe Garces (44): Everest (1991) Cho Oyu (1997),
Shisha Pangma central (1998), G-1 & G-II (1999 in
one week), Manaslu (2000 with Inurrategui brothers)
;Carlos Pauner (36); Javier Perez (33); Javier Barra
(33)
Originally
Cesen Route, but he changed to Abruzzi Ridge. They
collaborate with the Korean expedition. Actual
situation 07/06: Installed Camp 1 (6100 meters) and
Camp 2 (6700 meters). Yesterday, Pepe Garces had sleep
at Camp I and today will try to install Camp III (7100
meters), after surmounting the Dark Pyramid. Pedro
Update
7/8/2001: K2 Status: News
from K2 Base Camp.
Czechs
Qgir - K2 (8.611m) Himalaya 8000 expedition 2001 led
by Zdenek Hruby have established C1 on Cesen route,
and tomorrow they will start to build up C2. [Three
new updates directly from them are here.]
Focus
German International K2 Expedition led by Peter Guggemos
has established C2 and climbing above C2 now.
Spanish
group part of Focus International K2 Expedition climbs
Abruzzi,
established C1 and approaching C2. Best Wishes Essar
Karim
For
Mr. Park and the Korean Expedition see below...
Update
7/6/2001: Hi EverestNews.com
I am
at K2 now. Since I arrived at base camp, we had a
problem with notebook computer. So I couldn't send to
you [news] now everything fine. We made camp 2 (6600
meters) on the south east ridge on July 1st and on July
7th we will go up to camp 2 and will set up camp 3 and
then back down. There are 4 Spanish climbers here and
climbing together with us. They fixed rope from ABC to
camp 1 and we fixed rope from camp 1 to camp 2 . We
provided rope to them and they will fix rope camp 2 to
camp 3 with us. Now the weather and everything is
fine. After camp 3 we will wait for good weather and
then try to summit. Our expedition is 16 members (1
woman). I will send any information next week to you
and if you send questions to me I will write .. bye
Park young seok.
The
EverestNews.com list of K2 Summits to Date.
1.)
Qgir - K2 (8.611m) Himalaya 8000
expedition 2001
Check
the Updates !
2.)
Young
Seok Park, who has reached the Summit of 13 of the 14
8000 meter peaks, will attempt to complete the 14
8000 meter peaks this year on K2. EverestNews.com
will carry Mr. Park's reports in English along with
the Czech expedition above, and the World Summits expedition
on K2.
"I
will be climbing K2 this summer, June to August 2001.
It will be a big team. This time we will try to send
video film to Seoul by e-mail every day. Especially on
top of K2 and show on my homepage in SBS (Seoul
Broadcasting system) site. I will also write our
climbing story in English and send to you. Anyway
I'm happy to hear from you anytime. Best
regard", Young Seok Park
Update
6/7/2001:
Hello EverestNews.com ! I'm
in Islamabad now. Around the 20th of June I will
arrive at K2 base camp . I will send my climbing news.
Young seok Park
Update
6/11/2001:
Mr. Park's K2 expedition is in Pindi making their
final arrangements before they will depart for Skardu.
They are having two permits for K2 this year with a 16
members team plus 4 Pakistani high altitude porter
plus 2 Nepali high altitude porters. They are
planning to climb K2 from two routes the South East
Abruzzi Ridge and the South East Spur. The other
members are Park Young Do, Lee Ju Won You Chul Mok,
Youn In Heok, Hun Sung Soo, Nam Ki Tak, Koo Cha Joon,
Lee Jong Kwan, Serap Jangbu Sherpa (note this name,
you will here more about him later on
EverestNews.com), Pasang Chiring Sherpa, Kim Min Kwan.
Follow
Mr. Park's expedition right here on EverestNews.com.
3.)
German (International) K2 Focus Expedition lead by Peter
Guggemos
Hans Kammerlander, will make
his continuously third attempt on K2 this year. He is
planning to climb solo. He is here with his friend, I
will give you further notes sooner. First he want to
attempt Ogre and then he will go for K2 later in the
season. First two attempt in last years were failed. Asghar Ali Porik
Update
6/25/2001:
Peter
Guggemos is fine and still climbing on K2.
Update
6/24/2001:
Greetings from Pakistan! Peter Grote, an American
member of the International K-2 Expedition led by
Peter Guggemos has been helicoptered back from Base
camp and is in Skardu. The same day when Mr. Naiknam
Karim GM of Adventure Tours Pakistan heard the news he
managed to send a Helicopter to Base Camp and Peter
Grote was brought to Skardu. Mr. Grote will fly to
America but we don't know when he wishes to fly back.
He had a minor injury. Mr. Grote is a professional
photographer. The injury is not serious but his doctor
advised him to come back to America. Essar Karim
Update
6/13/2001: German K2 Expedition lead by Peter Guggemos
is here to depart for Skardu. German team has some
international mountaineering among them, including Hans
Kammerlander
who is right now climbing Ogre and would join the
group later. Hans plan is to climb K2 solo and ski
down from South east spur; Jean Christophe Lafaille is
here from France, Jose Antonio Garces from Spain,
Christian Trommsdorff from France, David Jewel from
New Zealand. Peter has climbed Nanga Parbat,
Gasherbrum I and II, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and
Shishapangma. Among others in the team is Peter Grote
an American Photographer who plans to take photos
only.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update: Jean Christophe Lafaille
will attempt K2 by the very difficult South Face on an
Solo Attempt at the Summit of K2. He will initially be
with Peter's expedition on the South East
Abruzzi Ridge, then after acclimatizing will try to
pick that 3-4 day window to go it alone on the South
Face for the Summit of K2.
Jean
has 6 8000 meter Summits to his credit to date
including Manaslu North face. Wish him well, he will
need it.
4.)
Spanish K2 Expedition: Pepe Garces, Javier Barra,
Carlos Pauner and Javier Perez. More soon !
Update
6/16/2001: Insiders have told EverestNews.com that Pakistan and China
plan to attempt K2 together in 2002 !
K2
20001 Expeditions and News; Broad
Peak 2001 Expedition List;
Nanga Parbat 2001 Expeditions;
Gasherbrum I and GII Expeditions and News; General
Pakistan News Page; The
Master list of Expeditions in Pakistan in
2001.
See
here for K2 2000
K2
1999
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