Ciao, while writing, I am "beastly" sleepy
since it's about 48 hours I am awake. Last night we tried to summit
Broad Peak in a fast an ultralight style. Yesterday morning we left the
5000 m. K2 BC, went to the 4800 Broad Peak BC and from there to 6350
meters at camp 2. Barbara came with me and even if not acclimatized, she
didn't suffer from mountain sickness. It has been a good experience for
her and she will go higher when more acclimatized.
I stopped for only one
hour and a half and at 9 pm we took off for the summit almost 2000
meters higher. Altitude, cold and physical capacities made a selection
and only 4 arrived up. I thought we had the summit, but at 7800 meters
we found inconsistent snow..... All climbers decided to turn around
without any silliness.
Certainly it is hard to
smell the top and turn around specially for me who made try climb only 6
days after arriving in BC. It would have been a dream. But I am in good
conditions and with an open account for the next 30 days with Broad
Now my program is to
rest for 3 days and then work hard on K2. Some of us think it's ready
for the climb.