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Spanish-Mexico
K2
2002!
Update
7/12/2002:
Our team had a diversion from
climbing this week when we discovered the remains of
American Dudley Wolfe who died here 63 years ago
without a trace. Until now.
While the British were hot in the pursuit of
conquering Everest during the first half of the 20th
century, Americans focused on the world’s #2
mountain at 8611 meters (28,250 feet). Tucked high
and deep into the Karakoram Range in northern
Pakistan, K2 is known in the climbing world by the
nickname, The Savage Mountain. It is a well-earned
moniker. While over a thousand have stood on Mount
Everest at the top of the world, less than 200 have
climbed K2, and nearly 50 have died trying.
And
Dudley Wolfe of Boston was the first.
An
American playboy in the Gatsby mode, according to
his nephew, Wolfe was apparently chosen for the 1939
American K2 expedition by leader Fritz Weissner on
the strength of his bank account, rather than his
climbing skills. Nonetheless, clumsy or not, Wolfe
was reportedly dogged in his climbing, and reached
nearly 8000 meters before high snows bogged him down
and he returned to Camp VIII at 7800 meters to await
Weissner. By the time Weissner returned, exhausted
and unsuccessful in his summit bid, Wolfe had been
in what we now refer to as the Death Zone, above
25,000 feet, for over a week. When he, Weissner and
Sherpa Pasang Kikuli started their descent, Wolfe
trod on the rope nearly killing them all. Weissner
decided to leave him at Camp VII, saying he would
send climbing Sherpas to bring him down. But by the
time the Sherpas returned, Wolfe had now been above
7000 meters for nearly two weeks!, and emerged from
his tent, ill and soiled, insisting he needed a day
to collect himself before descending.
He
and the Sherpas were never seen again. Until this
week.
Jeff Rhoads and I, who are on K2 this summer
producing our documentary “The Women of K2,” were
walking on a remote stretch of the Godwin-Austin
glacier at the base of K2, when we discovered what
looked to be human bones. As we searched the area,
we found it flooded with clues.
First, near the bones, we found pieces of an old
canvas tent. Obviously our man (and it had to be a
man since the only women to die on K2 who are still
unaccounted for are British climbers Julie Tullis in
1986 and Alison Hargreaves in 1995, too recent for
the age of these bones and tent) died in or near his
tent, and long before the days of nylon and rip
stop. Then we found a cook pot and lid engraved with
a “Made in India” logo, indicating his expedition
was before partition in 1947 and the creation of
Pakistan.
When we returned the next day, after the sun had
melted off the latest snow, we found the definitive
links; large, double layer pants with a label from
an old clothier in Cambridge, Massachusetts (our man
was obviously an American), a canvas and leather leg
gaitor (he and his clothes were pre-Goretex), and
then, casually leaning against a rock as if waiting
to be found, Jeff found a canvas and leather mitten
with WOLFE written in clear block letters near the
cuff.
When contacted from base camp, members of the Wolfe
family expressed bewildered relief that Dudley had
finally been found, and are presently making
arrangements to travel to K2 to conduct a formal
service at the base of the mountain.
Sixty-three years of glacial churning, and the
mystery of Dudley Wolfe is finally over. All
indications are that he died alone, in his tent, and
that the brave Sherpas who tried one of the most
daring mountain rescues in Himalayan history were
nonetheless unsuccessful in their heroic attempts.
While the remains of Sherpa Pasang Kikuli were found
in 1993, the other two have not been found. Yet.
Stay tuned. Jennifer Jordan
Dispatches
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