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K2 2000 Coverage
with Waldemar Niclevicz
reporting for Project K2 and
Gary Pfisterer reporting with the American
International Expedition! Included is news on other
climbers on the mountain including Hans Kammerlander,
Araceli Segarra and many others.
Day 45
Time
for another update from K2: 7/14/2000
It
has been a long time since you heard from me because
we have had a problem with our server. Anyway,
everything has been fixed and we are up and running
again.
On
the 29th of June Ivan Vallejo and myself descended
from Camp 2 to Base Camp in very strong winds and thus
began the start of a 9 day storm that left us for the
most part tent bound in Base Camp. It was a rather
frustrating time as we were all pretty sure that since
our team had fixed the whole of the Black Pyramid -a
notoriously difficult section of the mountain
stretching from Camp 2 at 6700 meters to 7300 meters.
We were quickly going to progress to Camps 3 at 7450
meters, and then to Camp 4 at 8050 meters. But all we
could do was drive ourselves a little bit crazy by
constantly discussing the weather, different food that
we would enjoy and everything else we didn't have
available at base camp.
Finally on the 7th of July things started to clear and
a few members headed up to Camp 1 and then Ivan and I
climbed up to Camp 1 the following day. One major
event did occur though, another Korean team arrived,
with 12 members, 4 Nepalese Sherpas and 3 Balti High
Altitude Porters. The Climbing leader, Mr. Um, has
climbed several 8000m peaks and in no uncertain terms
has very little regard for our team members nor the
other Korean team that we have worked so closely with.
We were very afraid of how they were going to treat
the ropes because of their previous climbing styles.
We could only wait and see how it would work its self
out.
After
a very quick ascent to Camp 1 on the 8th, 1:45 with a
ten minute rest to Advanced Base Camp - the
average for all the climbers this season being 3:00 -
and 2:45 to Camp 1 - the average being around 5:30, we
awoke on the 9th to find a foot of fresh snow and
again made a good time to Camp 2, 6700 meters. Our
normal time of 3:00 hours was pushed to 5:30, we
rested and joked about how well we were doing. The
following morning we woke to find another foot of snow
and climbed through the Pyramid and arrived after 6
hours at Camp 3 at 7450 meters. We put up our tent
warmed our feet and made our way back to Camp 2. The
whole day the wind had continuously pushed us over and
we were very grateful for our previous efforts fixing
the rope all the way through the pryamid. The morning
of the 11th we woke to very strong winds and descended
all the way to Base Camp.
On
our way down from Camp 2 Ivan and I found out how the
new Korean team lead by Mr. Um had chosen to climb.
Ivan left the ten twenty minutes before me so that we
wouldn't have to wait any time in the wind as we
descended the 37 rope lengths to Advanced Base Camp,
parting with a hand shake, smile and saying that we
would maintain visual contact and stop for some water
at Camp 1. Ivan left and I hoped the ropes hadn't been
worn out too much by the wind and fresh snow. I waited
and then went out into the wind and started off down
the ropes. I reached the bottom of House's Chimney, a
very steep rock pitch first climbed on the 1938
American Expedition. The 40m section has been the
basis for much discussion as the ropes have taken a
fair amount of abuse and the 100m section below is
laced with loose rocks and every rope runs over
very sharp edges. I started down the dangerous section
very slowly and was surprised to see the members of
the new team. I was surprised for two reasons, the
first they had only been in base camp a few days and
the second more important was five people were on one
rope which was probably the worst rope of the whole
stretch. I protested rather loudly, and if you have
ever climbed on a mountain with me you know just how
loud that can be. The Koreans said they were very
strong and experienced and that I should mind my own
business. I said they were climbing on my ropes and
that this was my business. The issue of the ropes was
discussed at length and I said they would now have to
climb to my team's standard if they wished to continue
to piggyback off our hardwork.
I
moved on and they managed to hit me with three rock
and then they had a minor accident and one of the
climber's helmet went flying by. I new it was time to
get off the mountain and have a discussion with all of
our team members. We have decided to work things out
between the teams and if they stick to our terms they
are welcome to use our ropes. But upon the first
infraction they will have to fix their own.
Anyway we are all back down in base camp and after an
aborted attempt to try for the summit we are again
facing a long spell of bad weather. We are all worried
about the new snowfall and the condition of the last
few hundred meters of the summit slopes.
Ivan
and I now wait for the first sign of good weather and
then we are off on our summit attempt. The moon is
almost full and we are a little restless. But we will
wait it out. I hope all is well. Wish us luck.
Fabrizio
Member of the American International Expedition lead
by Gary Pfisterer
8/17/2000
Italian climber Hans Kammerlander, trying to summit K2
along with teammate Konrad Auer, is still waiting in
Base Camp, due to heavy snow blizzards. "There's more
than one meter of fresh snow fallen in the last days"
says Kammerlander's manager Sigi Pichler. So the
expedition, wanting to summit K2 and descend on skis,
has been stopped due to high danger of avalanches.
Pichler, who had contact with Hans by satellite phone
only few hours ago, is still optimist: "Weather
reports say there'll be clear sky in the next days, so
Hans and Konrad will wait two or three days, to try
the summit again" says Pichler.
Kammerlander and Auer tried the same ascent one year
ago, but had to retreat for bad weather conditions
after ten days.
Source: Luigi Zoppello, Trento, Italy
Day
45
Back
at Base Camp after our attempt to reach Camp 3, more
tomorrow.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Day 44
Camp 2 (6500 meters ) / Camp 3 (7450 meters) 44th day
of the Expedition K2 2000!
From
Camp 2 to 3
My
friends,
This
is the fifth day of our lunge lunge towards the summit
of K2. Our goal is to try to set Camp 3 at 7450
meters. In 1998 I passed through this section
and I can attest to the difficult challenge we face.
This part is called the Black Pyramid, it is the most
difficult section of the entire route. It is
almost all on dark rock that is amazingly vertical,
the exposure is hard to comprehend. Fortunately
Marco and I, along with the American and Korean
teams, have fixed the ropes on this section. We
now need the weather to become our ally because it is
almost impossible to succeed on the Black Pyramid
fighting wind and blizzards. If we succeed in
our goal to establish Camp 3 we will have reason to
celebrate because the path to K2's summit will have
been cleared!!!
(legend of the photo: Marco Camandona getting close
House's Chimney; at the back, on the right the
tent of Camp 2 (6,500 m). Photo by Waldemar
Niclevicz.)
Waldemar Niclevicz
Project K2 2000 is sponsored by O Boticαrio,
TAM, Net Vνrtua and Sportsjα.
Day
43
 Waldemar At
Camp 2
Camp 1 (6050 meters) / Camp 2 (6500 meters) 43rd day
of the expedition K2 2000
Again
at Camp 2
This
is the fourth night that I will spend at Camp 2 (6500
m), it is important for our acclimatization (body's
adaptation to the rarefied air). We still need to
spend the night at Camp 3 (7450 meters) to avoid
problems at the end of the climb due to a lack of
oxygen in the atmosphere. The alpinists with more
experience usually adapt better that those people who
seldom face the rarefied air.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Day
42
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Alpinists
restart climbing at Abruzzos Spur. Photo by Waldemar Niclevicz
Click on this Picture !
You must see this !
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Base-camp (5100 meters) / Camp 1 (6050 meters) 42nd
day of The Expedition K2 2000
Starting the 5th lunge
The
weather has got better at last, it is great. Well, we
do not know for how long. It is necessary to take the
best in order to recover the waste time. Main Aim: Set
camp 3 (7450 meters) anyway. Setting such camping we
will already have conditions to attack the summit.
Insha Ala!
Kammerlander and Konrad Auer have also left this night
to the get the superior altitudes, via a path called
Tomo Cesen. Americans and Koreans are also following
us through Abruzzos Spur. The movement is intense in
all expeditions, everybody hoping to set camp 3 and
also if the weather keeps good make the first attempt
to the summit of K2.
I
count on your cheering in the next days.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Project K2 is sponsored by O Boticαrio, TAM,
Net Vνrtua and Sportsjα.
Update from the American Expedition 7/13/2000
Greetings Everyone,
It
has been quite a while since the last e-mail.
This was due in part to the fact that our e-mail
service was interrupted from the 2nd to the 6th of
July and the good news was after that we were back on
the hill for a bit.
The
weather continued to be terrible through the 4th of
July. On the fifth it brightened up a bit but we
were so spoiled with the memory of the early weather
we enjoyed that we stayed in base camp. By the
tie the 6th rolled around we realized that if we were
going to continue to make progress on the hill we
would have to go back up pretty much regardless of the
weather and hope for a break while we were there to
move up. With this in mind a group of five set
off on the 6th and went up to Camp I. Two others
followed on the 7th and another two on the 8th.
We moved up to Camp II on the 7th. There had
been a fair bit of new snow but the route was in
pretty good thick. The weather at Camp I was
unnaturally calm and as we went up the wind increased
and by the time we got to House's Chimney at 6600
meters it was blowing a gale and snowing sideways.
When we popped out the top of the chimney the wind was
about 50mph. Fortunately we were close to Camp
II by then. Another 50 meters and 20 minutes got
us to Camp II. The tents were a bit wind blown
and drifted but still serviceable and we didn't waste
any time getting in and settled.
The
next day the 8th two of us in Camp II went back to
base camp as the weather was looking grim and two
others were arriving from Camp I. The other
three at Camp II sat tight and took a rest day.
The next day we had a bit of luck and the weather
eased off. The five members in Camp II set off
up the ropes of the Lower black pyramid. By this
time two Koreans and two of their porters were also in
Camp II and set off as well. It had snowed
another foot or so the night before so the ropes were
under deep snow. The first person out, in
pulling up the ropes set off an avalanche in the first
gully out of the Camp. They pressed on, making
slow progress, three members and the Koreans were
carrying fixed line with the intention of making a few
repairs to areas already fixed and to complete the
route to Camp III. The other two members were
carrying tents and equipment to establish Camp III
once it was reached.
It
was a very slow process that we were able to watch
from base camp through binoculars. It continued
late into the afternoon and early evening. We
were all wondering what was going on up there when
finally about 6:30 we could see most of the climbers
descending. When we finally established radio
contact we were happy to learn that the day was a
major success. The route through the pyramid was
established and so was Camp III with two members
staying in the Camp for the night. The pyramid
is the most difficult section of the climb and takes
about 7 hours to negotiate on the ropes. Two
other members did a carry to Camp III the following
day while most other members descended to base camp
for a well earned rest. Everyone was back in
base camp for the 11th when we celebrated Andy Evans'
birthday with a giant cake. He was so out of
breath from all the work on the hill that he could
only blow out two out of three candles!!!! He'll
get another wish next year so no worries.
The
Brazilian team has now moved up the hill with three
members and four porters to try to get their Camp III
established with the intent to try to push on to Camp
IV and possibly the summit. The Koreans are
moving up tomorrow 13th for what they are hoping to be
a summit bid. They too still lack a Camp III but
they purchased the other Korean Camp IV from the
successful Korean team that was on the Spur. So
if that is still there they will have this advantage.
As I
write we are the only team on the hill with a Camp
III. It was placed a bit lower than normal at
7350 meters in a very sheltered and protected area.
We traded off the additional elevation of the normal
site at 7450 meters for the safety of this location.
We are now in the process of retrenching for another
assault. This next trip we hope at the least to
establish Camp IV at about 8050 meters. There is
a bit more fixing to do which we hope the Brazilians
or Koreans will take care of. Optimally the
group that establishes Camp IV will also make a summit
attempt if the weather permits.
Unfortunately the weather continues to be very
unstable and unpredictable. We have given up
doing anything but ignoring it and attempting to press
on in spite of it. So far this approach has
enabled us to continue to make progress, but as we get
higher on the hill we will have to be more
circumspect.
Unfortunately the weather continues to be very
unstable and unpredictable. We have given up
doing anything but ignoring it and attempting to press
on in spite of it. So far this approach has
enabled us to continue to make progress, but as we get
higher on the hill we will have to be more
circumspect.
The
most recent development has been the Korean invasion
of Mr. Um's team. This is one
of his last 8000er
and he arrived with a twelve person team with six
high altitude porters. His arrival has
essentially doubled the traffic on the ropes and the
consequent wear and tear. It is a bit of a
difficult situation as they have done nothing to help
establish or fix the route but use the ropes as a
birth right by virtue of the work of the other Korean
team that helped put the route and ropes in.
Hopefully all this will sort out satisfactorily.
We had a meeting this morning to discuss the use and
care of the ropes etc that seemed very positive.
With
regard to other teams, the small Japanese team on the
Spur is still acclimatizing on our route. Voytek
and his Japanese partner who were attempting the new
route on the east face have moved to the Spur.
The Brazilian team is now in Camp II. The old
Korean team is going up tomorrow. The new Korean
team is moving material up to Camp II. Mr. Um's
competitor Mr. Park is also here but is on Broad Peak
before coming to K 2. He has a base camp here
and has established a Camp I in anticipation.
The
Broad Peak mob tried a mass summit bid on the morning
of the 7th. Five teams joined forces to be
turned back by deep snow at 7700m. When the
Japanese team returned to their high camp the found
two of their tents had been swept away by an
avalanche. Everyone returned to base camp.
David Hamilton is done and leaving on the 15th.
The other teams are all awaiting better weather for
future attempts. Thankfully the Japanese team
that was planning to come to K 2 after Broad Peak is
staying there to see things through. The Camps
and ropes are getting very crowded here.
With
regard to the Korean descent off the Spur, they did
have a bit of a problem as they did not wand the route
and had to sit at the bottom of the bottleneck for
about three or four hours for a break in the weather
that engulfed them on their descent to see their high
camp. As I'm sure you know by now they all
returned safely. It took them two days to get
down in the soup.
Forgot to mention Hans Kammerlander. I think he
is just sitting tight and conserving energy. He
has a small team and i think will likely tuck in with
the Japanese when they begin to move up the Spur.
Voytek and one Japanese are already up there in Camp
II or III.
So,
hope the summer is progressing nicely for everyone.
I am anticipating leaving for Camp I tomorrow.
We have two groups heading up two days apart to try to
push the route to Camp IV and hopefully beyond.
I think summit success is a bit optimistic at this
point but who knows, we are hoping with the full moon
the weather may clear for a bit and we might just get
lucky.
Back
in touch in a week or so, Thanks for all the messages
and love to all. Cheers, Gary
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Day 41
Marco Camandona, Waldemar Niclevicz and Abele Blanc
waiting for good weather at K2's Base Camp.
41st
day of the Expedition K2 2000
Waiting for good weather at Base Camp
We
can say that there has been 13 days without good
weather, very different from the nice days when we
arrived here at Base Camp 25 days ago.
Our
expectation about the next full moon is great, on
16th, because the weather usually tends to keep on
stable. For a while, we can just wait patiently for
such improvement, because a new frustrated lunge means
unnecessary physical waste; our aim is to set Camp 3
(7450 meters) and do it just in a good weather. It is
not easy to be at base-camp waiting for good weather.
The days go by so quickly and fatally the end of the
climbing season (in the middle of August, arrival of
monsoon, a constant bad weather) is getting closer,
diminishing our chances to finish the climb
successfully. Even so, our hopes to get the
summit of K2 still in this month are great. I believe
that the weather will give us a break, as it happened
with the Koreans two weeks ago. So, what we are trying
to guess is when there will be a break, so that our
efforts don't be in vain.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Day 40
Base
Camp (5100 meters) 40th day of the Expedition K2 2000
More
Koreans at K2
A
Korean Expedition left K2 victorious last week, and
this week other two expeditions arrive hoping to get
its 8611 meters. What happens, exactly, is that we
have been surrounded by Koreans at Base Camp. Two
expeditions have arrived, one set its camp below
ours and other over.
I do
not have details about these new Korean
expeditions yet, because they have just arrived,
making our Sunday very agitated. But I am sure that
the number of alpinists that are trying to climb K2
this year must be a record in the history. At
least 50 alpinists from Pakistan side. From the
Chinese side there must be 20 alpinists at least, in 3
expeditions. [ Actually more than that.... others he
does not know about...] We hope, too, there can be
many successes, and no tragedy this year.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Day 39
Sight of Camp 2 yesterday, the clouds persisted around
K2. Photo by Waldemar Niclevicz
Base-camp (5100 meters) 39th day of the Expedition K2
2000
Being back at Base camp.
Being back to base camp, we have started to
cheer for good weather, so that we can go on
our work and end the climbing successfully at
last. We really hope to finish the climbing in
this month of July, more specifically in the
full moon, (July 16 and 17th).
Today the weather has shown some good signs.
It is a good luck for Koreans and Americans
who are at Camp 2, because I believe that they
have good chances to get Camp 3 (7450 meters).
If the weather really keeps good, maybe they
can get the summit tomorrow.
Another important thing that I didn't say
yesterday. Although the weather was bad, Marco
Camandona, Abele Blanc and I are in great
physical condition. That's very important. We
know we are a strong and competent team and
that we depend on just 4 good weather days to
reach the summit of K2.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Project K2 is sponsored by O Boticαrio, TAM,
Net Vνrtua and Sportsjα.
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