Dan Mazur's Kangchenjunga Spring 2002

6 May Dispatch Addendum: The weather was poor, deteriorating to snow in the afternoon, making work on the rockband difficult. Nevertheless, Felix aided by Jambu managed to fix another 50 meters of rope through a 60-85 degree mixed ice and rock traverse, but decided further progress was unwise as the spindrift was somewhat heavy. Stu and Chris went up from Camp 2 to the base of the rockband, and carved away the overhang on the bergschrund. Mike, Malte, and Mark dug away in the ice cave to make room for an extra tent - Mark particularly showed his artistic touches with finely designed terracing! Ivan and Julio rested after their heroics the previous day. After festering on the mountain for 8 nights, Paul, Steve, and Ian returned safely to basecamp and tucked into delights such as pizza. 

7 May Dispatch: On the rockband above Camp 2, there was beautiful sunny weather today. Ivan, Julio, and Felix busily fixed rope on the rockband, each leading one long pitch. The first pitch was lead up a vertical rock section with some old fixed lines used as protection. This was followed on the next pitch by 60 degree mixed rock and snow climbing with poor protection. The final pitch was a traverse on a 70 degree solid narrow ice band between rock. This progressed the fixed rope by another 120 meters, successfully entering the snowfield above the rockband. Malte carried a load up to the ice cave. Mike and Mark enjoyed another rest day in Camp 2, whilst Stu and Chris descended to basecamp, having dire urges for daal bhaat (lentil curry). Dan and Kipa and Matay and Nike spread out in Ghunsa and Phale, canvassing house to house, in search of more gas canisters, with the aid of Himalaya Chungda. Gas began to roll in.

After the rope had been successfully fixed through the rockband, Ivan, Julio, and Felix descended to Camp 1 so that they could savor the chili soup of the climbing sherpas, Gallu and Dorje. Heavy breathing was later heard on the radio. Paul, Steve, and Ian enjoyed their rest day, and played chess and backgammon badly.

8 May Dispatch: Ivan, Julio, and Felix had a lie-in, and were soon joined at Camp 1 by Mike, Malte, and Jambu. They all then descended to basecamp. Mark enjoyed another rest day at Camp 2. All other members enjoyed the rest day at basecamp, except for Ian. Bad diarrhea meant that he was only seen between his tent and the toilet - we never knew he could move so fast! Dan dispatched Kipa and Matay to the Ramche basecamp on the Yamphuding side of the mountain, with a letter, for the other expeditions stationed there, asking if they could assist by loaning our team more gas. We reckon that we will see Kipa and Matay in 5 to 7 days, and we will hope for the best answer, and fraternality between expeditions.

9 May Dispatch: The weather was good today, and all members enjoyed a well-earned rest day at basecamp, except for Mark. Mark is still enjoying his rest days at Camp 2, and had his food supply replenished by Tek, his climbing Sherpa. We had news of Dan today, and he appears to have found gas. Dan began the long walk up to basecamp today, heading from Ghunsa to Kambachen, he stayed with two yak herders tonight, and they made potato stew in a tiny hut with no windows, teaching him Tibetan, and telling stories of feeding their yaks (unwittingly of course) to the snow leopards. 

Thank you very much. Cheers for now. Yours
Sincerely, Daniel Mazur from http://www.SummitClimb.com

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