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Kangchenjunga 2003

Kangchenjunga  8586m Spring  2003 (current member update at the end)

1. Time: This will be a Spring Expedition.  Plan your arrival to Kathmandu for on or before 23rd March 2003, and your return for on or after 8th June 2003.

2. Route: The Expedition will attempt the original route of the British first ascent on the South Face.  The main technical difficulties will consist of moderate angle snow slopes from Base Camp (5300m) to Camp I on top of the "Hump" at 6000m, a higher angle ice wall between Camp II and Camp III and some steep ground just below Camp III, just below the "Great Shelf. We will fix rope in these difficult areas.

3.Team: The team will consist of a maximum of 12 climbers. Members should be strong, fit alpine climbers, comfortable with glacial travel, snow and ice climbing to Grade 3+, and successful experience acclimatizing at altitudes of 7000m or greater. 

4.Type of Expedition; This is a non-commercial and non-guided expedition. There will be no climbing Sherpas or porters above base camp.  There will be no bottled oxygen. All members will be expected to be proficient and competent alpine climbers with sufficient skills and experience to take care of themselves in camp and on the hill.  All members will be expected to participate and share in load carrying and establishing camps.  The opportunity exists for all members with sufficient skills to assist in establishing and fixing the route. 

5. Cost: The cost will be $8500 U.S. per person. This price reflects the non-guided, non-commercial nature of the climb. You’re not a client; you’re a team member. A $1500 deposit is required to secure a position with the expedition.  Positions will be given on a first come, first serve basis to qualified climbers.  All costing is done on a group basis, if for any reason you do not travel and stay with the group additional costs may be involved that will be your individual responsibility.

6. What’s Included: The climbing permit, round trip transport between Kathmandu and base camp, tents, porterage for 30kg of personal kit,  meals for the trek; base camp tents, food, group medical kit and all other base camp essentials; hill tents, stoves, gas, hill food, ropes and hardware.

7.What’s Not Included: Round trip airfares to and from Kathmandu; accommodation and food in Kathmandu; visa costs; alcohol or other bottled beverages; personal kit; staff tips and rescue costs – each member will have to provide proof of rescue insurance.

8. Logistics: We will drive with our kit from Kathmandu to Taplejung.  From here it is approximately 10 days walk to Kangchenjunga base camp.  We will establish base camp at 5300m and plan on putting in four camps on the mountain at approx. 6000m, 6000m, 7000m and 7900m.  The permit will expire on May 31st but we hope to summit by mid-May or earlier. 

9.       Itinerary 

Day 1              Arrive Kathmandu – March 23rd

Day 2-3          Free time in Kathmandu while visas are obtained or pitch in to help sort food, gear, and get last minute supplies.

Day 3-4          Overnight bus to Taplejung

Day 5-15        Trek to Base Camp.

Day 15-61      Climb Kangchenjunga (April 5th – May 31st). 

Day 61-66      Trek to Taplejung and return to Kathmandu on June 6th.

This is an approximate itinerary. There are any number of things that could result in changes to the program.  Travel in these regions requires flexibility and patience.  We are likely to summit before the climbing permit runs out on May 31st, in which case we will return to Kathmandu earlier.

10. Further Information: If you have interest but would like further information or have questions, please contact me: GARY PFISTERER

If you need a contact for Gary, let us know.

Also Note: Climbing can kill you. Climbing and mountaineering are very dangerous activities that can result in serious injury and death. 

Current Members: GARY PFISTERER, Tony Tonsing from the USA Paul Walters from Vancouver, Roland Hunter from BC, Frits Vrijlandt from Netherlands and Mick Parker from Australia.

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