Dan Mazur's Kangchenjunga Spring 2002

"The route (North Face) is definitely the safest, although not the easiest" H. Warth 1983 German expedition.


In 1983 Herman Warth's German expedition found a route on the lower part of the North Face that by-passed the avalanche dangers of the Japanese route, to its right.. Unfortunately they were not able to summit. Dan will climb the Warth route which was ascended to the summit by his teams in 1997 and 1998.

Base Camp 5140 meters - Camp 1 at 5500 meters 

Walking up moraine and across the low angle non technical rock and ice glacier to make a temporary camp.  

Camp 1 - Camp 2 at 6000 meters 

Continue up the non technical glacier to make Camp 2 at 6000 meters.

Camp 2 - Camp 3 at 6600 meters

Climb through a short icefall and up an ice gully (45o) through rock wall to reach first snow plateau.

Camp 3 - Camp 4 at 7300 meters 

Cross 15-30o snow slopes to camp at base of the rock band. 

Camp 4 - Camp 5 at 7500 meters 

Climb 250m rock band (via a snow gully and 100m mixed rock wall, grade british severe, u.s. grade 5.4) to reach upper snow field at 7500 meters.  

Camp 5 - Camp 6 at 7900 meters

Climb upper snowfield to make high camp below summit pyramid.  

Camp 6 - Summit 8586 meters 

Climb snow gully and mixed rock and ice that cuts through rock wall to reach West Ridge. 100 meters from summit climb along ridge (scrambling on rock and snow) to top.


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