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Dan
Mazur's Kangchenjunga
Spring 2002
"The
route (North Face) is definitely the safest,
although not the easiest" H. Warth 1983 German
expedition.
DESCRIPTION
OF THE ROUTE
In
1983 Herman Warth's German expedition found a route
on the lower part of the North Face that by-passed
the avalanche dangers of the Japanese route, to its
right.. Unfortunately they were not able to summit.
Dan will climb the Warth route which was ascended to
the summit by his teams in 1997 and 1998.
Base
Camp 5140 meters - Camp 1 at 5500 meters
Walking
up moraine and across the low angle non technical
rock and ice glacier to make a temporary camp.
Camp
1 - Camp 2 at 6000 meters
Continue
up the non technical glacier to make Camp 2 at 6000 meters.
Camp
2 - Camp 3 at 6600 meters
Climb
through a short icefall and up an ice gully (45o)
through rock wall to reach first snow plateau.
Camp
3 - Camp 4 at 7300 meters
Cross
15-30o snow slopes to camp at base of the
rock band.
Camp
4 - Camp 5 at 7500 meters
Climb
250m rock band (via a snow gully and 100m mixed rock
wall, grade british severe, u.s. grade 5.4) to reach
upper snow field at 7500 meters.
Camp
5 - Camp 6 at 7900 meters
Climb
upper snowfield to make high camp below summit
pyramid.
Camp
6 - Summit 8586 meters
Climb
snow gully and mixed rock and ice that cuts through
rock wall to reach West Ridge. 100 meters from
summit climb along ridge (scrambling on rock and
snow) to top.
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