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The
Everest-Lhotse
Traverse 2001
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| Update
April 25, 2001:
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko are ready to
conclude the first stage of acclimatization
towards the Lhotse-Everest climb. It will be a
special stage because the two will try to
traverse Lhotse first and then move on to
Everest. Simone has been constantly in contact
with Italy reporting that "We arrived at base camp well
acclimatized from the trekking and with a
strong preparation from the time spent this
winter in Thien Shan. We started setting up
camps up the mountain and we installed the
fixed ropes between Camps 2 and 3. The ropes
are up to the Yellow Band, then we descended
back to the forest to regain strength towards
the final push. Luckily, the mountain is dry
this year because, with the exception of the
last ten days, it hadn't snowed since the
beginning of December. We have never to
establish a path in the deep snow, although we
had to be extremely careful on the rock hard
snow." In regard to the climbing of
Lhotse "We want to climb Lhotse as an
acclimatization stage, because of the high
exposure above 8000 meters that we will face
(a total of 48 hours in the death zone), which
will be necessary towards the successful traverse. We are hopeful because the two
mountains seem in fair weather conditions and
we are in excellent physical shape. Denis
contribution has been essential and we work as
a team. Today, 4/25, we depart Dingboche
towards base camp and on the 27th we will
leave towards Lhotse, where our first attempt
to the summit will be April 30th. If
everything goes as planned, we will descend
back to the forest to regain our energies
towards the traverse. For now, everything is
proceeding as planned and we are looking
forward to fulfill the dream of a lifetime. |
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Update
April 27, 2001:In
today's phone contact with Simone Moro and Denis
Urubko from Base camp they informed us about
their program for the next several days.
"We are at Base Camp, and tomorrow (4/28)
we will leave towards Camp 2. We will climb
straight to Camp 2 without stopping at Camp 1.
The next day (4/29) we will climb to camp 4 at
7800 meters. We will attempt the summit of
Lhotse on April 30. The weather report shows
fair conditions, although we received 5
centimeters of snow overnight. Denis and I will
be joined by Silvio Mondinelli who has a permit
to climb both Lhotse and Everest. For me and
Denis the acclimatization has been essential, and we
will try to control our enthusiasm and save
energies for the attempt. We are well aware that
this is only the first stage for us, and that
our final objective is the crossing. I will send
further dispatches when we will come back to
base camp in 4 days hopefully with good news.
Ciao Simone.
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Source: Emilio Previtali www.acerbis.it
Dispatches
>>>
Everest
2001
Daily
News and Expedition Coverage
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