8000 Meter Peaks

Cho Oyu
Nanga Parbat
Broad Peak

Seven Summits

Vinson Massif
Carstensz Pyramid
Mount Kosciusko

Without our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our sponsors. 

imax.gif (11898 bytes)  

 The Everest-Lhotse Traverse 2001

Simone Moro and Denis Urubko


Dispatches are below !


Daily News Index

Everest Facts
The Quest for 8000
Everest Summits & Deaths
Seven Summits
Index of Everest Spring 2001 Expeditions
Daily News Index


Update 5/24/2001: Denis decided to quit the Traverse: "We are a team, we will do together next time". Source: www.acerbis.it


Update: Simone Moro is back to the Base Camp, he did not Summit Lhotse. Denis Urubko did reach the Summit of Lhotse and is now back at camp 4. Denis changed the line at which he crossed to the South Col, avoiding the climbing of the North Ridge and lowering his position to the end of the channel and then crossing it. Source: www.acerbis.it


[So it this a Traverse?]

May 22nd 5.30pm Italian Time  11:30am Et 

Simone is at the South Col. We are receiving information with extreme difficulties, but we learn from our latest message from Nima Sherpa that Simone and Denis already has spent one night at the South Col. The latest news said that they scheduled the summit of Everest for today, but the attempt has been postponed to tomorrow probably to regain energies before the final assault. It is obvious that the original program has been changed, most likely because the climb to various camps has been modified by Simone and Denis. The latest dispatch from Nima told us the two climbers were at 8200meters towards the Lhotse Summit. We are yet to learn if the two reached the summit of Lhotse before descending for the North Ridge and then move to the South Col. We are waiting for our next dispatch with Nima and as soon as possible we will update the website. In the meantime, cross your fingers!!

Source: Emilio Previtali www.acerbis.it

May 13th 10pm Italian Time No News-Good News

We could not reach Simone Moro today for our daily phone conversation. It is a sign that Simone and Denis are climbing the Lhotse. The radio contact with the Pyramid is also unavailable due to technical difficulties. As we agreed with Simone, we called Nayaran at 1.15pm Italian time. Nayaran is our Sherpa friend in the Kumbu Valley and he's always in contact with Simone and he gives us updates when the satellite telephone is not operating. Unfortunately, after several tentatives, we were unable to speak with him due to the damaged phone line. The latest news that we were able to gather show excellent weather conditions, and it seems that tomorrow several teams will attempt the summit of Everest, which remained unclimbed on both sides so far this season. According to Simone's agenda, he will climb the Lhotse tomorrow and then descend to the South Col towards the untouched North Ridge. We are now awaiting our next phone call scheduled for tomorrow at 1.15pm Italian time. Our next Internet update is tomorrow at 2pm. 

Source: Emilio Previtali www.acerbis.it

Monday, May 14th  10pm Italian Time

"The wind brought us the smell of the summit..."

With these words Simone Moro comments their first attempt of their Lhotse-Everest traverse that due to the deep snow failed at 8100 meters. "Yesterday we climbed from Base Camp at 5300meters to Camp 3 at 7300 meters. This morning the weather conditions we excellent to climb  to the summit of Lhotse, and we climbed to Camp 4 very fast in only 2 hours and 20 minutes. There we had the first problems, because the snow above 7800 meters is very deep and it takes a lot of energy to climb. I started vomiting and I lost precious liquids to stay at this elevation for our required time to complete the traverse. I insisted, the summit seemed within our reach, but things were getting worse and the snow was very deep. It was impossible to keep on going. Thus Denis and I decided to descend. It would have been reckless to keep climbing. We descended in 3 1/2 hours from 8100 meters to Camp 2. It is unfortunate because we were in excellent shape and the weather was ideal for the traverse, except the deep snow up high." The weather is finally fair after 4 days of snow and wind. 

"Silvio Mondinelli and Mario Merelli are currently at Camp 3 at 7300 meters, tomorrow they will climb to the South Col. and they will try the summit without oxygen if everything goes as planned. I wish the weather will remain fair, although the forecast from base camp shows contradictory news for the next three days. Some say fair weather while others forecast storms. The only thing is to wait and see what happens." Simone and Denis will recuperate in the next few days "Tomorrow we will descend to the valley to regain our energies for 2 days. The good thing about this first attempt is that we once again reached 8000 meters and that is good
to further acclimatize our bodies. We hope our next attempt will be successful. Talk to you soon, Simone."

Source: Emilio Previtali www.acerbis.it

Older Update:

Simone Moro and Denis Urubko have returned from their attempt to acclimatize towards the Lhotse Summit. They originally planned to reach the summit of Lhotse on April 30, but they changed their program. "We decided to climb to the South Col rather than the summit of Lhotse because the weather conditions on the passage that takes you up the mountain were dangerous. To reach the summit we need to set up more route and that will only cost us more time and energies. The lack of snow causes us to act extremely careful. Denis and I decided to divert towards the South Col where we set up a tent and camped while Silvio Mondinelli and Mario Merelli, who came along with us, stopped at Camp 3. Obviously, going towards Everest was a wise choice because we were able to make difference in altitude without wasting precious energies that we will need in the "true" attempt. We spent a good night at 8000 meters, besides the wind and the cold. We will now descend to the valley for a week, and then we will be ready for the traverse. We are glad to leave the camp, since there is sorrow in the air due to the death of Babu. It makes us reflect the fact that a man who slept on the summit of Everest without oxygen and a 10 time submitter died falling into a crevasse while taking pictures around camp 2.  Talk to you soon. Simone" 

Source: Emilio Previtali www.acerbis.it

 <<< Dispatches >>>

Everest 2001

Daily News and Expedition Coverage

The Mountaineering Must Haves


Video:  Popular Music:  DVD: 

wpe2.jpg (2012 bytes)

Daily News and Notes, what made this site famous among Everest climbers

Updated Everyday !



Send Mail to everestnews2004@adelphia.net.   Copyright©1998, 1999, 2000, 2001. EverestNews.com  All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes. Read it.



Where to get the News and Expedition reports !


 The Best Source for Gear On-line

• Backcountry Gear
• Backpacks
• Bags & Luggage
• Bindings
• Binoculars
• Blankets & Pillows
• Boot & Fabric Care
• Cameras
• Camp Furniture
• Camping Accessories
• Car Racks
• Carabiners
• Cards
• Child Carriers
• Climbing Bags
• Compasses
• Cooking Supplies
• Cycling Components
• Cycling Repair
• Dry Bags
• Dry Boxes
• Electronics
• First Aid
• Fishing Accessories
• Fleece
• Float Tubes
• Fly Boxes
• Fly Line
• Fly Rods
• Fly Tying
• Fly Vests & Packs
• Food
• Footwear
• Gaiters
• Gifts & Games
• Gloves & Mittens
• Goggles
• Harnesses
• Hats
• Helmets
• Hydration Packs
• Indoor Climbing Gear
• Infant Apparel
• Jackets
• Kayaks
• Kid's Cycling Gear
• Kid's Paddling Gear
• Knives & Tools
• Leaders & Tippets
• Lifejackets/ PFDs
• Lights
• Locks
• Long Underwear
• Maps
• Messenger & Bike Bags
• Mountaineering Gear
• Neckwear
• Neoprene
• Nets
• Paddles & Oars
• Paddlewear
• Pants
• Pet Gear
• Poles
• Pontoons
• Prints & Posters
• Rafts
• Reels & Spools
• Rescue Gear
• Rock Climbing Gear
• Rod & Reel Kits
• Rod Tubes & Bags
• Ropes
• Shell Outerwear
• Shirts
• Shorts
• Showers & Toilets
• Skates & Scooters
• Ski & Board Repair
• Skirts & Dresses
• Skis
• Sleds and Tubes
• Sleeping Bags & Pads
• Snowboards
• Snowshoes
• Socks
• Sprayskirts
• Stoves
• Strollers
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen & Repellant
• Sweaters
• Swimming
• Tents
• Travel Accessories
• Underwear
• Vests
• Videos
• Waders
• Watches & Clocks
• Water Bottles & Bags
• Water Filtration