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 Ukrainian Lhotse 2002 

Ukrainian Lhotse Expedition

Name List


Vladimir Pestrikov


Vadym Leontyev


Vladislav Terzyul


Update 5/20/2002: Dear EverestNews.com, The Ukrainians have summited the 8516 meter high Mt. Lhotse Main on 16th May. All members of team Vladimir Pestrikov, Vadym Leontyev and Vladislav Terzyul reached the summit. On Saturday, May 18, they descended  in BC. More details later. Very Best Wishes, Liudmila.

Update 5/31/2002: A 3 men lightweight Ukrainian team reached the summit of Lhotse on May 16 following the 'classic' route via the Khumbu Ice Fall & the West Face route. The summiteers included Vladislav Terzyul, 49, Leontyev Vadym, 50 and Vladimir Pestrikov, 38.  

Ukrainian Lhotse Expedition: Vladislav Terzyul bags his 11th 8000 meter peak including Shishapangma, Central. 

Vladislav Terzyul

Leontev Vadym

Sharing their permit with a Japanese Cleaning Expedition team, the Ukrainian had arrived at the base camp on the 12 April to start their climbing.  They set up their CI (6000m) on 17 April, CII (6400m.) on 18 April and CIII (7200m) on 24 April.  After setting up CIII all climbers retreated to base camp and descended down to Dingboche for a good rest to prepare for the summit bid.  On the 8th May, they started from BC to CII for the summit push, climbed from CII to CIII on 9 May, made deposit of food and tent from CIII to CIV on 10 May, climbed up again to CIV from CIII to set up the camp with a tent on the 11 May and same day descended down to Camp II for a two day rest.  On the 14th May, they climbed up to CIII and then to CIII to CIV on the 15th May with plan to head for the summit on the 16th May. 

On the 16th May, they set-out from their final camp for the summit around 7 am with the weather looking good.  Taking time to watch the long queue of Everest climbers making it to the summit from the South Summit, they reached the summit of Lhotse around 3 pm.  Making themselves comfortable on a narrow rock ledge just a man's height from the corniced summit of Everest, they watched a few of slow Everest climbers making their way down to South -Col. The weather on the summit was windy with thick fog moving around, they made descent from summit around 4 pm and were able to arrive at CIV around 6pm.  Vladislav Terzyul Terzyul and Vladimir Pestrikov decided to overnight at Camp IV whereas Leontyev Vadym climbed down to CIII to spend the night.  Next day, with no Sherpa to help, they loaded up all their equipment and clothing on their own and climbed down it to the CII for the night and making it safely to base camp next day. 

This was probably most the lightweight and minimum budget expedition which set out with only 4 porters carrying the all personal clothing, climbing equipment and high altitude food, fuel of the expedition team from Lukla.  For the base camp meals, they shared mess with a commercial Everest team which was arranged by their trekking agent. Despite of the compactness of the expedition, they managed to carry a sauna fueled by two kerosene stoves.  It was a big hit with the climbers of  opposite sex members from other expedition team at the Everest - Lhotse base camp. The expedition was organized and sponsored by Ukrainian Mountaineering Foundation and Alpine Club of Odessa.

About the Climbers: For Vladislav Terzyul, the success on Lhotse marks the 11th successful ascent in the list of 14 peaks above 8000 meter including Shishapangma, Central.  Makalu, Dhaulagiri and Hidden Peak are the 3 peaks remaining unclimbed in his list of fourteen 8000 meter peaks.  He hopes to climb Makalu next autumn with a home team and then attempt Dhaulagiri and Hidden Peak next year to complete his list of all fourteen 8000 meter peaks. Terzyul takes great pride and satisfaction to mention that unlike many 8000 meter climbers, all his climbs so far have been completed without use of supplementary oxygen and support of climbing sherpas. His first taste of an 8000 meter success was on Kangchenjunga in 1993 with a joint Indo-Ukraine Expedition - approaching the mountain from the Sikkim side  and followed the route climbed by the Indian Army in 1977 along the north-east spur / north ridge route..  In the list of 11 successful 8000 meter climbs, he considers his climb on the North West ridge of Annapurna in 1996 autumn completing a very new route with Polish climber Andrez Marciniak the most challenging and fulfilling.  Married with two children Vladislav Terzyul live in the Ukrainian city of Yunzy. He is today the most famous living climber in Eastern Europe and much ahead of other Eastern European climber in the 8000 meter summit bagging race.  On his recent climb on Lhotse, he was well amused and equally concerned about the extensive use of fixed line on the mountain by commercial expedition guides.  He comments with the commercialization of the 8000 meter peaks, the challenge of climbing an 8000 meter peak is turned in to " everyone waiting for his/her turn on the fix rope to the summit".  He also found it interesting to encounter with some of the Everest climbers using oxygen right from Camp II in their quest to reach the summit.  Even though he found fixed ropes put by other expedition teams within 200 meter of the of the summit, he thinks the normal route on Lhotse technically not difficult and climbable without fixed ropes. 

At 50 years of age Leontev Vadym is pursuing his dream to climb all fourteen 8000 meter peaks and hopes to become the oldest person ever to complete the list.  He has already reached the summit of four 8000ers: Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma, Manaslu and Lhotse, and has climbed to the last camp of Mt. Everest and Annapurna.  All of Vadym's climbs in the Himalaya has been without bottled oxygen and support of climbing Sherpas.

For Vladimir Pestriokov, 38, summit of Lhotse marks his first 8000 meter success.

Both Vadym and Pestriokov hope to return to Makalu with Vladislav Terzyul in coming autumn season.

(Above report based on an interview with on 23 May 2002) AKS

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