down for reports from different teams...
1.) Gary Pfisterer,
Leader of the Successful
American International K2
2000 Expedition, will lead an attempt on Lhotse in
Spring 2001. Gary, a veteran of expeditions to
8000 meter peaks will attempt Lhotse with a team
that includes Everest Summiter Tony Tonsing.
Much more on this expedition and other team members
in the coming weeks. EverestNews.com
plans on some reports from this expedition
during the Spring.
Pfisterer Lhotse International Expedition is here.
Summit: Tom Moores
Yeritsian will attempt the Summit of Lhotse via
the West Face Route.
Himalayan Guides 6th Lhotse
Inaki Ochoa: a Basque, with 7 x 8000ers
Peta Watts: Scotland, guided Khan Tengri, Ama Dablam,
Joby Ogwyn: US, Summits of Everest and others 7
Dr Yuri Contreras: Mexico, Summits of Everest from
both sides, Cho Oyu
Prof JT Chang: US, Numerous expeditions to
Dr Scott Markey: Canada, New Routes in Maritime
Range, Ama Dablam
Tim Cowen: US, Everest, Cho Oyu
members and one Sherpa of Himalayan Guides Lhotse
Expedition successful to climb the Summit of 8,516 m
high Mt. Lhotse main on 24th May 2001 at 10:00 a.m.
& returned down to Camp II.
1) Mrs. Peta Watts, (1955) Climber, Edinburgh, UK.
2) Mr. Joby David Ogwyn, Climber, Shreveport, LA, USA.
3) Mr. Yuri Contreras Cedi, (1963), Climber, Leon
4) Mr. Pasang Dawa Sherpa (26 Yrs.), Khumjung-7,
This Eleven-member expedition team was permitted to
climb 8,516 m high Mt. Lhotse from West Face under the
leadership of Mrs. Peta Watts, (1955) Climber from UK,
during this Spring Season of 2001.
International Lhotse Expedition (Asian-Trekking)
Name of foreign climbers:
a. Ms. Anna Czerwinska, Poland
b. Mr. Dariusz Zaluski, Poland
c. Mr. Gia Tortledze, Georgian
a. Mr. Pasang Tshering Sherpa
Anna and Dariusz
summitted Lhotse on May 21st with their climbing
Sherpa Pasang Tsheri Sherpa.
5/25/2001: Leader, Two members and One Sherpa of
International Lhotse has been successful to climb the
summit, of 8516 meter high Lhotse Main Summit on 21st
Leader of the Expedition Mrs. Anna Czerwinska (1949),
2) Mr. Dariusz Zaluski (1959), Sales Man from Warsaw,
Poland. (Without Oxygen).
3) Mr. Pasang Tshering Sherpa, (26 Yrs), HAS, Namche
This nine-members expedition team was permitted to
climb Mt. Lhotse from West Face route under the
Leadership of Mrs. Anna Czerwinska, (1949) Climber,
from Warsaw, Poland during this Spring Season of 2001.
Himalaya Center Kathmandu
Some news from Anna
Czerwinska 5/11/2001: We
rest in base camp after an attempt of our camp 4
at 7800 meters, where from we planned to attack the
Summit of Lhotse. Unfortunately, a violent breakdown
of weather has forced us to go down to base camp. All
wait on the correction of weather here. Forecasts are
rather bad. "They are checked on luck not always,
so, several pretty (beautiful) days can come on at the
end." [Not sure what she is saying in this last
sentence.] More: czerwinska.onet.pl
26th April 26th 2001
The 3 camp 7300 m is ready.
is a lot of ice on the road so there's no
"volunteer" to lead the way higher :o) Darek
& Anna spend 3 nights in 3 camp and feel excellent.
Russian Lhotse Expedition, Russia
Name of foreign climbers:
a. Mr. Nikolai Tchernyi- Expedition leader
b. Mr. Vladmir Ianotchkine
c. Mr. Evgueni Vinogradski
d. Mr. Gleb Sokolov
e. Mr. Jouri Kochelenko
f. Mr. Peter Kouznestov
g. Mr. Yuri Ermachek
h. Mr. Nikolai Jiline
i. Mr. Alexei Bolotov
j. Mr. Serguei Timofeev
k. Mr. Vasily Elagin
l. Mr. Victor Volodine
a. Mr. Nwang Tenjing Sherpa
b. Mr. Ang Karma Sherpa
c. Mr. Nima Tshering Sherpa
was the first team to reach Camp 3, and the team that
many Everest climbers are talking about since they use
the same route.
We received from a few sources the confirmation that
Vladimir Yanochkin and Victor Volodin climbed to the
top of Lhotse Middle on May 27th. Now the expedition
is Katmandu. They blocked in Sherpa Guest House by
chaos situation in downtown. Everybody feels good.
They are going to fly back from Katmandu to Moscow on
June 8th. Best regards, www.risk.ru
Check them for all the Russian News !
opened 8000m peak Lhotse
Middle has been climbed second time by three members
of the same Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition
reaching summit of 8,413 m high on 24th May 2001 at
12:00 noon, & they returned down to Camp IV (South
Col.) at 5 PM.
1) Mr. Jouri Kochelenko (1963), Coach from Startovaya
Street, Rostov on Don, Russia.
2) Mr. Nikolai Jiline (1950), Adjuster, Opalihinskaya
Street, Yekterinburg, Russia.
3) Mr. Gleb Sokolov (1953), Engineer, Kropotknia
This Eleven member expedition team was permitted to
climb 8,413 m high Mt. Lhotse Middle from West Side
under the Leadership of Mr. Serguei Timofeev (1957),
Engineer, from Yekaterinburg, Russia during the Spring
Season of 2001. Himalaya Center Kathmandu 25 May 2001
5/24/2001 Summit Details:
Four members of the Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition
successfully climbed the summit of 8,413m high Mt.
Lhotse Middle from West Side on 23rd May 2001 at 3:00
Mr. Serguei Timofeev (1957), Engineer from
2) Mr. Peter Kouzentsov (1958), Builder, Viksm Str,
3) Mr. Alexei Bolotov (1963), Engineer of
Metallurgical from Kuibysheva
Street, Yekaterinburg, RUSSIA.
4) Mr Evgueni Vinogradski (1946), Doctor from Kalaeva
Street, Yekaterinburg, RUSSIA.
It is also reported that they had started from camp IV
(South Col.) for the Summit on 23rd May at 8:05 am,
and returned down to camp IV around 4:40 p.m. The
other members of the team will be trying for the
summit on 24th May, 2001. This
is the first and Lhotse Middle has been permitted and
subsequently summitted. This
eleven-member Expedition team was permitted to climb
Mt. Lhotse Middle under the leadership of Mr. Serguei
Timofeev during this Spring season of 2001. Himalaya
Center 23-5-01 Kathmandu, Nepal
5/23/2001: Russians Summit Lhotse Middle ! First ever
days from the Summit ? of Lhotse Middle !
Everest-Lhotse Traverse (Without oxygen)
a. Mr. Simone Moro, Italy
b. Mr. Denis Urubko, Kazakhstan.
reports on The
Traverse 2001 see here.
Park, Hee Joon Oh, and Jangbu Sherpa Summitted
Lhotse last week (April 29th). It appears Mr. Park
used the short window last week to make the Summit of
Lhotse. Mr. Park is headed to K2.
Source: Ang Karma Sherpa
from Mr. Park: Hi EverestNews.com, I summitted LHOTSE
29th . April 2001. with Mr. Hee Joon OH ( Korean ) and
Serap Jangbu Sherpa. it is first summit this time in Everest
& Lhotse mountains. In my team, one member was try
to snowboarding down from summit. Actually he will try
to snowboarding down from Everest top. It is for training.
This time he snowboarded down from camp 3 to camp 1.
He is a beginner of mountain climbing. So we
have to help him to climbing. and I also have to check
my condition and body for K2. So
I climbed Lhotse and also looking for another route of
Everest south west face.
that why ... and I will be Islamabad on 2nd June.
2001. bye. Young Seok Park
official news: Two
members & Sirdar of 2001 Dong Guk Lhotse
Expedition from Republic of Korea, successfully
climbed the summit of 8,516m Mt. Lhotse on 29th April
2001 at around 15.15 PM from West face.
Young Seok Park (1963), Republic of Korea.
Mr. Hee Joon Oh (1970), Student from Seoul, Republic f
Mr. Serup Jangbu Sherpa (30),Sirdar from ,Khumjung
VDC-3, Solukhumbu, Nepal
six member expedition team was permitted to climb
8,516 m Mt. Lhotse from West face under the leadership
of Mr. Hyoung-Woo Kim (1968) Alpinist from Cheju,
Republic of Korea during the Spring season of
will carry Mr. Park K2 reports this year.
Spanish Lhotse Middle 8516 (has never been
Oscar Cadiach : 49 years (2 Everest summits, Nanga ,Shisha, Makalu,
Broad Peak, Cho Oyu)
Cerain: 39 years Everest Summit 93, Makalu
Maria Onate: 40 years (Everest Summit 1993)
May 20th: Camp II (6400m) to Camp IV (7700 m.)
May 21st: Scheduled summit attempt.
More news at this moment.
May 23th: 2 members of Al Filo de lo Imposible
expedition had summitted Lhotse (8516 meters) without
supplemental oxygen. Oscar Cadiach summited at 10.am
(Nepal time) and Alberto Zerain at 10.45 am. The rest
of the team: Eloi Callado and Jose Maria Onate
retreat at 8.200 m due cold and high winds. All the
team is reported safe at Camp II.
was "Irvine" the last year in the recreation
that Al Filo de lo imposible made on Everest. Oscar
Cadiach was "Mallory".
Another Leader & One Member of TVE AL Filo de Le
Impossible Expedition team has been successful to
climb the summit of 8,516 m high, Mt. Lhotse Main on
23rd May 2001 at 12 noon. They stayed for one hour at
the summit and return down to camp II on the same day.
Leader Mr. Oscar Cadiach I Puig (1952), Alpine Guide
from Tarragona, Spain.
2) Mr. Alberto Certain Berasategi (1961), Climber from
This four-members expedition team was permitted to
climb Mt. Lhotse from West Face route under the
Leadership of Mr. Oscar Cadiach I Puig, (1952) Alpine
Guide, from Tarrogona, Spain, during this Spring
Season of 2001.
The following two members & the Sirdar of 2001
Korean Lhotse Expedition have been successful to climb
the summit of 8,516m. high Mt. Lhotse from west face
on 16th May 2001 at 9:30 a.m. and 10:18 a.m. 16th May
9:30 a.m. 1) Mr. UM Hong Gil, (1960), General Manager
of Advertising Department from Pagoda Academy Inc,
Seoul, The Republic of Korea. 2) Mr. Ang Babu Sherpa
(1975), Sirdar from Khumjung VDC-3, Solukhumbu,
May 10:18 a.m. 3) Mr. RA Kwan Ju (1967), Mountaineer
from Jeon Buk, The Republic of Korea. Report
says that they had started for the summit from camp IV
(7700m) at 3:30 a.m. On the same day the three
submitters returned down to camp IV at 2:15 P.M. and
camp II at 5:30 P.M The
team left the base camp on 19th May.This five-member expedition team was permitted to
climb Mt. Lhotse from west face under the leadership
of Mr. UM Hong Gil during the spring season of 2001.
Himalya Center, Kathmandu, Nepal 23rd May
from Mr. Um and Ang Karma Sherpa:
Korea Lhotse Shar Lhotse
members and one Sherpa of the 5 member 2001 Korea
Lhotse Shar Lhotse
team led by Um Hong Gil, 40, of Seoul, Republic
of Korea were successful in reaching the summit of
8511 Mt. Lhotse on
the 16th May via the normal West Face
a plan to attempt both Lhotse Shar 8400m Lhotse Shar
and Lhotse 8511, The 2001 Korea Lhotse Shar Lhotse
had first arrived at the Lhotse Shar
base camp situated at 5200 on 24th
March, near Imjatse ( Island) which is among the
most popular of all trekking peaks of Nepal.
some rock section, they established their first camp
at 5600 m on the 28th March. Above Camp I
they encountered ice and snow sloped with some
crevasses to set up Camp II at 6000m on the 2nd
no great technical difficult faced, in order to get
higher they came up
with snow and ice mixed steep faces leading to
rock faces and then to sharp ridges.
On the 8th April Camp # III was set
up at 6500 meter.
the 19th of April a deposit camp was set up
at 7000m where they carried all gear and food
necessary for their last camp which was to be set up
at 7500m. However,
a big avalanche hit this deposit camp in which they
lost 3 tents, 4 oxygen cylinders, utensils, fuel and
sleeping pad. The
impact of the avalanche had some of the snow stakes
broken in pieces.
lost the deposit camp, on 22nd April two
Korean climbers, Mr. Um and Kwan Ju Ra, supported by Sirdar Ang Babu, Sherpas Pasang, Lhakpa and Pemba climbed
direct from Camp
II to 7500m
and back carrying equipment and food to set up Camp IV. . It took them
more than 10 hours climbing through deep snow in a
weather that was cold, windy and cloudy to 7500m and
2 hours to return to Camp II.
day, all Korean climbers and the Sherpas descended to
base camp for a good rest to make
their summit attempt from the Camp IV at 7500m.
Having rested a few days at the base camp, on
the 27th April Korean climbers Mr. Um and
Kwan with Sirdar Ang Babu and 3 Sherpas climbed to
Camp II with a hope to make a summit bid around 30th
of April. On the 28th they climbed from CII
to CIII. Arriving at the Camp III. On 29 April at Camp
weather turned very bad with visibility limited to
5~10 yards. This
day they rested at Camp III with hope the following
day will be a good day to push to their final camp at
the weather did not improve and they tried climbing up
a few hundred meters and then gave up the effort and
decided to go down to base camp and save their effort
for Lhotse via the West Face ( normal route).
main reason for their failure to climb the mountain is
attributed to weather.
They weather generally went bad after 10 am
resulting to severe white out conditions above 6000m
followed by snow fall every day.
This was a local weather for this side of
Lhotse only as the climbers could see fine weather
around the Makalu area.
8511m via the West Face
left the Lhotse Shar base camp on the 3rd
May, the Korean Climbers
and the Sherpas arrived at their next base camp
on 05 May which is also the base
camp for all Mt. Everest Climb from the Nepal
the 6th May, they had a short Pooja
ceremony at the base camp and following day they were
up at Camp II in the Western Cwm,
the 10 May, Mr. Um, Mr. Kwan, Sirdar Ang
Babu supported by Sherpas: Pasang, Lhakpa and
Pemba climbed direct from the Western
Camp at 6500m direct to their final camp at 7500 m
placed near the Yellow Band that is on the South Col
route to Everest from
the SE ridge.
the 11 May, although the weather was not that good,
Um, Kwan and Ang Babu climbed about 300 m above their
Camp IV for a summit push before they were turned back
by strong wind and snowy condition.
Returning to Camp IV, and being very tired from
their effort the trio decided to descend down to Camp
II for a more comfortable rest.
taken it easy on the 12 and 13 May, the trio climbed
up to Camp IV on the 14th May for another
shot at the summit.
However, the following day did not look
The day started with frequent thunderstorm in
the morning. The
climbed for 2 hours for the summit but fearing the
thunder storm to produce electrical current in their
bodies, they decided to return to their camp.
the 16th, they were prepared by 3.30 am for
yet another go for the summit.
The day looked calm and clear.
It looked liked the break they had hoped to
climb it all the way to the summit.
Consequently, after about a 9 hr. climb
traversing a wide snow field leading to the main gully
that takes a workable to route to the
summit, Mr. Um Hong Gil climbing in pair with
Sirdar Ang Babu was able to reach the summit around
9.15 An hour later, Korean climber Kwan Ju Ra also
arrived at the summit.
After the traditional hoisting
of flags, prayer flags and picture taking
ceremony, the 3 climbers made
their way down to Camp IV which they arrived
around 2.15pm. After a brief rest and they
decided to go down Camp II arriving there at 5.30 pm.
the 17 May, they descended to base camp and
on the 19 the they left base camp for
the 21 May, they were able to take a helicopter to fly
them all the way to Kathmandu from Syangboche.
There are about 12 expeditions on Lhotse this Spring.