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Lhotse 2001

Page down for reports from different teams...

1.) Gary Pfisterer, Leader of the Successful American International K2 2000 Expedition, will lead an attempt on Lhotse in Spring 2001. Gary, a veteran of expeditions to 8000 meter peaks will attempt Lhotse with a team that includes Everest Summiter Tony Tonsing. Much more on this expedition and other team members in the coming weeks. EverestNews.com plans on some reports from this expedition during the Spring. 

Team List

John Bagnulo, USA

James Fulton, USA

Thomas Moores, UK

Gary Pfisterer, USA

Tony Tonsing, USA

Jefferson Reynolds, USA

Jay Sieger, USA

William Stevenson, USA

Ivan Vallejo, Ecuador

Raphael...(Ivan's friend), Ecuador

 

This year's Gary Pfisterer Lhotse International Expedition is here.

 

One Summit: Tom Moores

 

2.) Ray Yeritsian will attempt the Summit of Lhotse via the West Face Route.

 

3.) Himalayan Guides 6th Lhotse Expedition

 

a.) Inaki Ochoa: a Basque, with 7 x 8000ers

b.) Peta Watts: Scotland, guided Khan Tengri, Ama Dablam, etc

c.) Joby Ogwyn: US, Summits of Everest and others 7 summits etc

d.) Dr Yuri Contreras: Mexico, Summits of Everest from both sides, Cho Oyu

e.) Prof JT Chang: US, Numerous expeditions to 8000ers

f.)  Dr Scott Markey: Canada, New Routes in Maritime Range, Ama Dablam

g.) Tim Cowen:  US, Everest, Cho Oyu

 

Update 5/25/2001: Three members and one Sherpa of Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition successful to climb the Summit of 8,516 m high Mt. Lhotse main on 24th May 2001 at 10:00 a.m. & returned down to Camp II.

1) Mrs. Peta Watts, (1955) Climber, Edinburgh, UK.
2) Mr. Joby David Ogwyn, Climber, Shreveport, LA, USA.
3) Mr. Yuri Contreras Cedi, (1963), Climber, Leon Guanajuato, Mexico.
4) Mr. Pasang Dawa Sherpa (26 Yrs.), Khumjung-7, Solukhumbu.

This Eleven-member expedition team was permitted to climb 8,516 m high Mt. Lhotse from West Face under the leadership of Mrs. Peta Watts, (1955) Climber from UK, during this Spring Season of 2001.

 

4.) International Lhotse Expedition (Asian-Trekking)

Name of foreign climbers:
a. Ms. Anna Czerwinska, Poland
b. Mr. Dariusz Zaluski, Poland
c. Mr. Gia Tortledze, Georgian

Nepalese Member:
a. Mr. Pasang Tshering Sherpa

 

Update 5/22/2001: Anna and Dariusz Zaluski summitted Lhotse on May 21st with their climbing Sherpa Pasang Tsheri Sherpa.

 

Update 5/25/2001: Leader, Two members and One Sherpa of International Lhotse has been successful to climb the summit, of 8516 meter high Lhotse Main Summit on 21st May 2001. 

1) Leader of the Expedition Mrs. Anna Czerwinska (1949), Climber from
Warsaw, Poland.
2) Mr. Dariusz Zaluski (1959), Sales Man from Warsaw, Poland.  (Without Oxygen).
3) Mr. Pasang Tshering Sherpa, (26 Yrs), HAS, Namche VDC-7, Solukhumbu.

This nine-members expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Lhotse from West Face route under the Leadership of Mrs. Anna Czerwinska, (1949) Climber, from Warsaw, Poland during this Spring Season of 2001.
Himalaya Center Kathmandu      25-05-01

 

Update: Some news from Anna Czerwinska 5/11/2001: We rest in base camp after an attempt of our camp 4 at 7800 meters, where from we planned to attack the Summit of Lhotse. Unfortunately, a violent breakdown of weather has forced us to go down to base camp. All wait on the correction of weather here. Forecasts are rather bad. "They are checked on luck not always, so, several pretty (beautiful) days can come on at the end." [Not sure what she is saying in this last sentence.] More: czerwinska.onet.pl 

 

Update: 26th April 26th 2001 The 3 camp 7300 m is ready.

There is a lot of ice on the road so there's no "volunteer" to lead the way higher :o) Darek & Anna spend 3 nights in 3 camp and feel excellent. more: http://czerwinska.onet.pl

 

5.) Russian Lhotse Expedition, Russia

 

Name of foreign climbers:
a. Mr. Nikolai Tchernyi- Expedition leader
b. Mr. Vladmir Ianotchkine
c. Mr. Evgueni Vinogradski
d. Mr. Gleb Sokolov
e. Mr. Jouri Kochelenko
f. Mr. Peter Kouznestov
g. Mr. Yuri Ermachek
h. Mr. Nikolai Jiline
i. Mr. Alexei Bolotov
j. Mr. Serguei Timofeev
k. Mr. Vasily Elagin
l. Mr. Victor Volodine

Nepalese members:
a. Mr. Nwang Tenjing Sherpa
b. Mr. Ang Karma Sherpa
c. Mr. Nima Tshering Sherpa

 

This was the first team to reach Camp 3, and the team that many Everest climbers are talking about since they use the same route. 

 

Update 6/6/2001: We received from a few sources the confirmation that Vladimir Yanochkin and Victor Volodin climbed to the top of Lhotse Middle on May 27th. Now the expedition is Katmandu. They blocked in Sherpa Guest House by chaos situation in downtown. Everybody feels good. They are going to fly back from Katmandu to Moscow on June 8th. Best regards, www.risk.ru Check them for all the Russian News !

 

Update 5/25/2001: Newly opened 8000m peak Lhotse Middle has been climbed second time by three members of the same Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition reaching summit of 8,413 m high on 24th May 2001 at 12:00 noon, & they returned down to Camp IV (South Col.) at 5 PM.

1) Mr. Jouri Kochelenko (1963), Coach from Startovaya Street, Rostov on Don, Russia.
2) Mr. Nikolai Jiline (1950), Adjuster, Opalihinskaya Street, Yekterinburg, Russia.
3) Mr. Gleb Sokolov (1953), Engineer, Kropotknia Street, Novosibirsk,
Russia. 
This Eleven member expedition team was permitted to climb 8,413 m high Mt. Lhotse Middle from West Side under the Leadership of Mr. Serguei Timofeev (1957), Engineer, from Yekaterinburg, Russia during the Spring Season of 2001. Himalaya Center Kathmandu 25 May 2001

 

Update 5/24/2001 Summit Details: Four members of the Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition successfully climbed the summit of 8,413m high Mt. Lhotse Middle from West Side on 23rd May 2001 at 3:00 p.m.

 

1) Mr. Serguei Timofeev (1957), Engineer from Novgorodzevoj Street,
Yekafevinburg, RUSSIA.
2) Mr. Peter Kouzentsov (1958), Builder, Viksm Str, Zheleznogorska
Krasnoyarsk, RUSSIA.
3) Mr. Alexei Bolotov (1963), Engineer of Metallurgical from Kuibysheva
Street, Yekaterinburg, RUSSIA.
4) Mr Evgueni Vinogradski (1946), Doctor from Kalaeva Street, Yekaterinburg, RUSSIA.

It is also reported that they had started from camp IV (South Col.) for the Summit on 23rd May at 8:05 am, and returned down to camp IV around 4:40 p.m. The other members of the team will be trying for the summit on 24th May, 2001. This is the first and Lhotse Middle has been permitted and subsequently summitted.  This eleven-member Expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Lhotse Middle under the leadership of Mr. Serguei Timofeev during this Spring season of 2001. Himalaya Center 23-5-01 Kathmandu, Nepal

 

Update 5/23/2001: Russians Summit Lhotse Middle ! First ever ascent !

 

Update 5/18/2001: Two days from the Summit ? of Lhotse Middle ! Risk 

 

6.) Everest-Lhotse Traverse  (Without oxygen)

 

a. Mr. Simone Moro, Italy
b. Mr. Denis Urubko, Kazakhstan.

 

For reports on The Everest-Lhotse Traverse 2001 see here. 

 

7.) Mr. Park, Hee Joon Oh, and Jangbu Sherpa Summitted Lhotse last week (April 29th). It appears Mr. Park used the short window last week to make the Summit of Lhotse. Mr. Park is headed to K2. Source: Ang Karma Sherpa

 

Report from Mr. Park: Hi EverestNews.com, I summitted LHOTSE 29th . April 2001. with Mr. Hee Joon OH ( Korean ) and Serap Jangbu Sherpa. it is first summit this time in Everest & Lhotse mountains. In my team, one member was try to snowboarding down from summit. Actually he will try to snowboarding down from Everest top. It is for training. This time he snowboarded down from camp 3 to camp 1. He is a beginner of mountain climbing.  So we have to help him to climbing. and I also have to check my condition and body for K2. So I climbed Lhotse and also looking for another route of Everest south west face. that why ... and I will be Islamabad on 2nd June. 2001. bye. Young Seok Park

 

Nepal official news: Two members & Sirdar of 2001 Dong Guk Lhotse Expedition from Republic of Korea, successfully climbed the summit of 8,516m Mt. Lhotse on 29th April 2001 at around 15.15 PM from West face. 

Mr. Young Seok Park (1963), Republic of Korea.
Mr. Hee Joon Oh (1970), Student from Seoul, Republic f Korea .
Mr. Serup Jangbu Sherpa (30),Sirdar from ,Khumjung VDC-3, Solukhumbu, Nepal 

This six member expedition team was permitted to climb 8,516 m Mt. Lhotse from West face under the leadership of Mr. Hyoung-Woo Kim (1968) Alpinist from Cheju, Republic of Korea during the Spring season of 2001. 

EverestNews.com will carry Mr. Park K2 reports this year.

 

8.) Spanish Lhotse Middle 8516 (has never been Summitted) 

 

Members: Oscar Cadiach : 49 years (2 Everest summits, Nanga ,Shisha, Makalu, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu)

Alberto Cerain: 39 years  Everest Summit 93, Makalu 95

Jose Maria Onate: 40 years (Everest Summit 1993)

Eloy Callado

 

Plan: May 20th: Camp II (6400m) to Camp IV (7700 m.)
May 21st: Scheduled summit attempt.

No More news at this moment.

 

Update 5/24/2001: May 23th: 2 members of Al Filo de lo Imposible expedition had summitted Lhotse (8516 meters) without supplemental oxygen. Oscar Cadiach summited at 10.am (Nepal time) and Alberto Zerain at 10.45 am. The rest of the team: Eloi Callado and Jose Maria Onate retreat at 8.200 m due cold and high winds. All the team is reported safe at Camp II. 

 

Zerain was "Irvine" the last year in the recreation that Al Filo de lo imposible made on Everest. Oscar Cadiach was "Mallory".

 

Update 5/25/2001: Another Leader & One Member of TVE AL Filo de Le Impossible Expedition team has been successful to climb the summit of 8,516 m high, Mt. Lhotse Main on 23rd May 2001 at 12 noon. They stayed for one hour at the summit and return down to camp II on the same day.

1) Leader Mr. Oscar Cadiach I Puig (1952), Alpine Guide from Tarragona, Spain.
2) Mr. Alberto Certain Berasategi (1961), Climber from Vitoria Gasteiz,
Spain.
This four-members expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Lhotse from West Face route under the Leadership of Mr. Oscar Cadiach I Puig, (1952) Alpine Guide, from Tarrogona, Spain, during this Spring Season of 2001. 

 

9.) The following two members & the Sirdar of 2001 Korean Lhotse Expedition have been successful to climb the summit of 8,516m. high Mt. Lhotse from west face on 16th May 2001 at 9:30 a.m. and 10:18 a.m. 16th May 9:30 a.m. 1) Mr. UM Hong Gil, (1960), General Manager of Advertising Department from Pagoda Academy Inc, Seoul, The Republic of Korea. 2) Mr. Ang Babu Sherpa (1975), Sirdar from Khumjung VDC-3, Solukhumbu, Nepal. 

 

16th May 10:18 a.m. 3) Mr. RA Kwan Ju (1967), Mountaineer from Jeon Buk, The Republic of Korea. Report says that they had started for the summit from camp IV (7700m) at 3:30 a.m. On the same day the three submitters returned down to camp IV at 2:15 P.M. and camp II at 5:30 P.M The team left the base camp on 19th May.This five-member expedition team was permitted to climb Mt. Lhotse from west face under the leadership of Mr. UM Hong Gil during the spring season of 2001. Himalya Center, Kathmandu, Nepal   23rd May 2001 

 

Report from Mr. Um and Ang Karma Sherpa: 

2001 Korea Lhotse Shar – Lhotse

Two members and one Sherpa of the 5 member 2001 Korea Lhotse Shar – Lhotse  team led by Um Hong Gil, 40, of Seoul, Republic of Korea were successful in reaching the summit of 8511 Mt. Lhotse  on the 16th May via the normal West Face route.

With a plan to attempt both Lhotse Shar 8400m Lhotse Shar and Lhotse 8511, The 2001 Korea Lhotse Shar – Lhotse had first arrived at the Lhotse Shar  base camp situated at 5200 on 24th March, near Imjatse ( Island) – which is among the most popular of all trekking peaks of Nepal.

Overcoming some rock section, they established their first camp at 5600 m on the 28th March. Above Camp I they encountered ice and snow sloped with some crevasses to set up Camp II at 6000m on the 2nd April.

Though no great technical difficult faced, in order to get higher they came up  with snow and ice mixed steep faces leading to rock faces and then to sharp ridges.  On the 8th April Camp # III was set up at 6500 meter.

On the 19th of April a deposit camp was set up at 7000m where they carried all gear and food necessary for their last camp which was to be set up at 7500m.  However, a big avalanche hit this deposit camp in which they lost 3 tents, 4 oxygen cylinders, utensils, fuel and sleeping pad.  The impact of the avalanche had some of the snow stakes broken in pieces.

Having lost the deposit camp, on 22nd April two Korean climbers, Mr. Um and Kwan Ju Ra, supported by  Sirdar Ang Babu, Sherpas Pasang, Lhakpa and Pemba climbed direct from  Camp II to  7500m and back  carrying equipment and food to set up Camp IV. . It took them more than 10 hours climbing through deep snow in a weather that was cold, windy and cloudy to 7500m and  2 hours to return to Camp II.

Next day, all Korean climbers and the Sherpas descended to base camp for a good rest to make  their summit attempt from the Camp IV at 7500m.  Having rested a few days at the base camp, on the 27th April Korean climbers Mr. Um and Kwan with Sirdar Ang Babu and 3 Sherpas climbed to Camp II with a hope to make a summit bid around 30th of April. On the 28th they climbed from CII to CIII. Arriving at the Camp III. On 29 April at Camp III  they weather turned very bad with visibility limited to 5~10 yards.  This day they rested at Camp III with hope the following day will be a good day to push to their final camp at 7500m.  Following, the weather did not improve and they tried climbing up a few hundred meters and then gave up the effort and decided to go down to base camp and save their effort for Lhotse via the West Face ( normal route).

The main reason for their failure to climb the mountain is attributed to weather.  They weather generally went bad after 10 am resulting to severe white out conditions above 6000m followed by snow fall every day.  This was a local weather for this side of Lhotse only as the climbers could see fine weather around the Makalu area.

Lhotse 8511m  via the West Face

Having left the Lhotse Shar base camp on the 3rd May, the Korean Climbers  and the Sherpas arrived at their next base camp on 05 May which is also the base  camp for all Mt. Everest Climb from the Nepal side.  On the 6th May, they had a short Pooja ceremony at the base camp and following day they were up at Camp II in the Western Cwm,

On the 10 May, Mr. Um, Mr. Kwan, Sirdar Ang  Babu supported by Sherpas: Pasang, Lhakpa and Pemba climbed direct from the Western 

Cwm Camp at 6500m direct to their final camp at 7500 m placed near the Yellow Band that is on the South Col route to Everest from  the SE ridge.

On the 11 May, although the weather was not that good, Um, Kwan and Ang Babu climbed about 300 m above their Camp IV for a summit push before they were turned back by strong wind and snowy condition.  Returning to Camp IV, and being very tired from their effort the trio decided to descend down to Camp II for a more comfortable rest.

Having taken it easy on the 12 and 13 May, the trio climbed up to Camp IV on the 14th May for another shot at the summit.  However, the following day did not look encouraging either.  The day started with frequent thunderstorm in the morning.  The climbed for 2 hours for the summit but fearing the thunder storm to produce electrical current in their bodies, they decided to return to their camp. 

On the 16th, they were prepared by 3.30 am for yet another go for the summit.  The day looked calm and clear.  It looked liked the break they had hoped to climb it all the way to the summit.  Consequently, after about a 9 hr. climb traversing a wide snow field leading to the main gully that takes a workable to route to the  summit, Mr. Um Hong Gil climbing in pair with Sirdar Ang Babu was able to reach the summit around 9.15 An hour later, Korean climber Kwan Ju Ra also arrived at the summit.  After the traditional hoisting  of flags, prayer flags and picture taking ceremony, the 3 climbers made  their way down to Camp IV which they arrived around 2.15pm.  After a brief rest and  they decided to go down Camp II arriving there at 5.30 pm.

On the 17 May, they descended to base camp and  on the 19 the they left base camp for Kathmandu.  On the 21 May, they were able to take a helicopter to fly them all the way to Kathmandu from Syangboche.

10.) There are about 12 expeditions on Lhotse this Spring.

Lhotse 2000

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