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 David Lim: ASCENT 8000

I'm now in Cho Oyu ABC waiting for a suitable break in the weather and then MB Tamang and I will go for it alpine style over 4 days from ABC. Good bet we will shoot for a summit day on the 18th May.

Cheers, David Lim ASCENT 8000
Singapore Disabled Ascents of Shishapangma and Cho Oyu 2002

Below is the story of Dave's Shisha attempt...

DISABLED MOUNTAINEER RETURNS FROM ABORTIVE SUMMIT BID: Singapore's Dave Lim returned safely to Advance Base Camp at Shishapangma, Tibet without the 8012m summit. The 6-day summit bid was organized after a spate of extremely unseasonable bad weather and aimed at reaching the top of Tibet's highest peak on May 6th. The long summit push was preceded by very heavy load carries by Lim and M.B Tamang, his climbing partner. Three successively higher camps were placed, the last at 7350m before the summit bid began at 330am May 6th. Weather forecasts had put wind conditions to be moderate. However, after about 200-300 meters of upward progress, sustained stretches of hard ice made further progress too dangerous. While the sections themselves would already been exposed and tricky for an able-bodied alpinist, Lim's disabled right leg made progress extremely strenuous. With only a shorter length of rope to protect each other over small, steep sections, it would have been too risky and time-consuming to belay each other in turn over the long section of wind-polished ice. Lim turned back at around  7600meters. 

At the same time the only other summit team, a European team, turned back after one of their members sustained a 200-metre fall higher up. Heavy, localized snowing put at end to the day's summit attempts. No one summitted that day. According to Lim, these are the first known summit attempts of the season. Lim made an arduous descent back to Intermediate Camp, ending a 15 hour day. 

With not much time left, Lim will be leaving advance base camp on May 9th to make his way to Cho Oyu, the second of the two 8000-m peaks on his schedule. He intends to reach Advance Base Camp in under a week and complete the climb in rapid, lightweight style after acclimatizing on Shishapangma. 

Commenting on the summit week: "For some time my conversations with God have not been happy ones. For most of the climbing days, we had been beset by awful and unpleasant weather. We never got a break. None of my prayers for a respite seem to be answered. But most recently, I had two replies. In one, he gave me strength in my legs. In the other, on summit day, he gave me wisdom to make the right decision. it wasn't an easy one, but it was the correct one. Climbing 8000m peaks is, after all, not about summiting, it's about making the right call. You're really on the edge of things if you're tired beyond belief an still have some ways to go to your objective." 

On the next two days", " Eating fried eggs, resting my aching muscles, packing and mentally psyching up myself for the next climb. I can't recall any Asian mountaineer, able-bodied or not, attempting three peaks in a single expedition*. It's going to be tough. This isn't exactly  the kind of adventure where you have relays of porters carrying all your stuff nor is it the kind where you can get airlifts of underwear, food and gear to you. And after the climb, you still have to get  your butt off the mountain. No plane can get you off that hill." 

* Lim summitted Mera peak ( 6476m ) on April 2nd

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