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Lhotse
2001: Gary Pfisterer And the International Expedition
Dispatch
Four:
April 14, 2001
A snowstorm dumping 6" of snow in BC and
12"+ on higher elevations paralyzed all activity
on the hill today. Only one person from our team
went up today to Camp I while most others on the hill
bailed to BC and all others remained in BC.
Three of our team got down from Camp I and Camp II.
Camp II was established at 6,400 meters on April 13th.
While the morning brought clear skies & sun, the
weather deteriorated again in the PM with snow
beginning at 3:00. We have 3-4 members planning
to go up tomorrow, conditions permitting.
Dispatch
Five: April
15 - 19
Spent
4 nights on the hill. Two in Camp I and two in
Camp II. All team
members have spent at least two nights in Camp I by
now with load carries to Camp II. Everyone is
fit and going well with exception of standard minor
ailments. Most teams are pressing on to Camp II
and starting to acclimatize there, while waiting for
the route to proceed on the face. There
was another storm on the 17th and 18th which slowed
progress on the face. As per a team meeting on
April 13, the Russian team agreed to fix the face if
other teams provided ropes and hardware and got them
to the base of the Lhotse face at 6,700 meters.
This cooperative venture seems to be going well with
most materials in place as of April 17. With the
weather going fine on the 19th, I think everyone is
hoping for rapid progress. Meanwhile everyone is
moving kit up the hill for higher camps and getting
acclimatized at Camp II. I think most teams are
looking at the full moon in early May for initial
summit prospects. As always, greetings and
love to family and friends from all. Gary