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Winter
Makalu 2000/2001 1-9-2001 Dispatch
EXPEDITION
TO MAKALU
I
Can't Froth With My Soap - Shampoos frozen - The
Farewell to Sugar - My Computer Goes Crazy - We have
winter, there is no doubt
Mountain
roaring with hurricane
Gia
Tortladze, Maciej Pawlikowski and Piotr Snopczynski
prepare to build the tent of camp no.2 II (6900 m)
photo:
MONIKA ROGOZINSKA
The
most important moment has come for the Polish Winter
Expedition to Makalu. Only one group of Alpinists are
at the western slope. Krzysztof Wielicki, Dariusz Zaluski
and Jaroslaw Zurawski spent the night of 8th January
in Camp II (currently 6900 m).
The
camp was moved up to reach the Makalu La pass (7400m) faster. That point is crucial for us to move
and attack the peak.
The
lower part of the lobby leading to the pass has
balustrades. The teams which were recently in camp II, went down to the base to have a rest. It is
difficult to function in frost reaching a few tens of
degrees below zero, in hurricane wind. Such are the
weather conditions at the height of 7000 meters. Gia
Tortladze wishes to spend Christmas in the base. It is
Christmas time for the Orthodox Church. He wants to
climb to the top in a few days, taking Krzysztof
Liszewski. Of course, everything depends on the
weather.
Jerzy
Natkanski was going to leave for the "two"
with Maciej Pawlikowski. Unfortunately he felt bad
after a sleepless night in camp 1 (6200m). Natkanski
should not have gone to the upper parts of the
mountains. He still has an upper respiratory passages
infection together with larynx inflammation and voice
loss. It was however not possible to keep him in the
base. He left with indispensable equipment. Finally
Pawlikowski went up from the "one" and Natkanski,
equipped with a radio-phone, was to come back to the
extended base 2-3 hours away.
Snow
in the Kingdom : My Storm Years on Everest by
Ed Webster, Peter Williams (Editor),
(Illustrator) This item will be published in
November 2000. You may order it now and we will
ship it to you when it arrives.