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 Winter Makalu 2000/2001  1-9-2001 Dispatch  

EXPEDITION TO MAKALU

I Can't Froth With My Soap - Shampoos frozen - The Farewell to Sugar - My Computer Goes Crazy - We have winter, there is no doubt

Mountain roaring with hurricane

Gia Tortladze, Maciej Pawlikowski and Piotr Snopczynski prepare to build the tent of camp no.2 II (6900 m)

photo: MONIKA ROGOZINSKA

The most important moment has come for the Polish Winter Expedition to Makalu. Only one group of Alpinists are at the western slope. Krzysztof Wielicki, Dariusz Zaluski and Jaroslaw Zurawski spent the night of 8th January in Camp II (currently 6900 m).

The camp was moved up to reach the Makalu La pass (7400m) faster. That point is crucial for us to move and attack the peak.

The lower part of the lobby leading to the pass has balustrades. The teams which were recently in camp II, went down to the base to have a rest. It is difficult to function in frost reaching a few tens of degrees below zero, in hurricane wind. Such are the weather conditions at the height of 7000 meters. Gia Tortladze wishes to spend Christmas in the base. It is Christmas time for the Orthodox Church. He wants to climb to the top in a few days, taking Krzysztof Liszewski. Of course, everything depends on the weather.

Jerzy Natkanski was going to leave for the "two" with Maciej Pawlikowski. Unfortunately he felt bad after a sleepless night in camp 1 (6200m). Natkanski should not have gone to the upper parts of the mountains. He still has an upper respiratory passages infection together with larynx inflammation and voice loss. It was however not possible to keep him in the base. He left with indispensable equipment. Finally Pawlikowski went up from the "one" and Natkanski, equipped with a radio-phone, was to come back to the extended base 2-3 hours away.

written by Monika Rogozinska, "Rzeczpospolita",
transl. by "TRANSLATOR" Technical Translation Agency
http://www.rp.pl  ("Rzeczpospolita") and
http://www.translator-warsaw.com.pl ("TRANSLATOR")

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