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Winter
Makalu 2000/2001
12-09-2000 Dispatch
The
advanced base is set up
Rocks
in the tent
The
Polish expedition already climbs up the Western Leg of
Makalu. They set up the advanced base below its foot
7-8 hours away from the main base. So far the wind is
the most disturbing factor for the climbers.
It
was the worst for the climbers who set up the advanced
base. There were four of them sleeping in one tent
plus big stones which they had to put inside in order
not to be blown away.
On
Friday Krzysztof Wielicki climbed to the height of
5700 meters on his own. He was helped by Dariusz Zaluski,
Jerzy Natkanski and Piotr Snopczynski. Gia Tortladze
and Krzysztof Liszewski, who have just finished
carrying the equipment and setting up the balustrade,
will leave the base on Saturday. All this is happening
without stopping, as if the climbers have not noticed
that they were at the sea level not so long ago. The
acclimatization requires several weeks. I sadly
observe my colleagues unsuccessfully trying to
overcome their physical weaknesses.
Unfortunately
we have patients. The infection brought by the
tourists has stayed with us. We look like genuine
Himalayas climbers. As a result of wind and dust our
faces turned into shells, our nostrils and mouths are
cracked, hands swollen. The frost is still not that
bad. Temperature goes down only to 15 grades C below
zero.
The
nights are starry. The Charle's Wain is positioned
right over Makalu. The full moon will come in a few
days. We fear it will bring a change of weather.
Snow
in the Kingdom : My Storm Years on Everest by
Ed Webster, Peter Williams (Editor),
(Illustrator) This item will be published in
November 2000. You may order it now and we will
ship it to you when it arrives.