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Makalu
2001 Expeditions
and News
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Autumn
Makalu: Swiss team led by Nobert Joss, Diego Stefani
is a member.
Update
10/24/2001: Nobert Joss and Diego Stefani tried to
reach the Summit at the end of last week, but Nobert,
didn't feel so good at around 7500 meter, they decided
to come back. They will try again, we are waiting for
a telephone call from Diego, I will let you know, Bye
Silvia
Update
10/19/2001: Weather and snow conditions are good. They
have reached the base camp on the 10th of October,
till now they have fixed a tent at about 6500 m. and
went up to 7000 m. Silvia
Winter
Makalu Expedition 2000/2001: Krzysztof
Wielicki takes on Makalu in the Winter ! Complete
coverage on EverestNews.com here.
Spring
2001 Expeditions:
1.)
Adventure Consultants Makalu
2001 led by Guy Cotter
Summits
see the link above...
2.) American
Makalu Expedition 2001
They are intending to make an alpine style ascent of the
Southwest buttress, first climbed by the
Czechoslovakians in 1976. There has not been a second ascent
to date although attempts have been made. This
expedition is a group of six climbers comprised of
Brendan Cusick Leader, Carolyn
Parker, John Kear, Chris Brown, Glenn Dunmire, and
Cecelia Mortenson. If Cecelia and Carolyn are successful
they will be the second and third American women to
summit Makalu. They have significant equipment sponsorship from the North
Face, Wild Country, Maxim ropes, Misty Mtn products
and about 12 other kind folks the funds have been the
hardest.
"An alpine style attack of this mountain
from any angle will be difficult. So we are very
excited about pushing it. This has been my dream for
ten years (I am 26) so to finally be getting ready to
shove off is exciting. We have a very strong and
dynamic team with a good mix of altitude experience
and very hard technical climbers. This is what we will
need for a single push in May. We will be acclimating
for the month of April [on Makalu] then going for the top sometime
in the second week of May. " Best,
Brendan Cusick
Leader
American Makalu Expedition 2001 "in style"
Update
5/18/2001:
A family member of the team tells EverestNews.com,
that after an unsuccessful attempt at the summit of
Makalu, "all of the climbers left Base Camp this
past Monday, the 14th, by helicopter. They are all
doing fine."
We
will let the expedition tell the story when they check
back in...
2.)
FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITION: Makalu Expedition. This team
is composed by 10 Italian UIAGM Mountain Guides from
Dolomites (S. Martino di Castrozza), led by expert
Renzo Corona. They will attempt the normal route.
Start of the expedition from Italy, April 1st. 2001.
More
Details: A team of professional Italian Alpine Guides,
named The Eagel of San Martino, will try Makalu summit
to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their first
expedition. The team will include Renzo Corona
(leader), Narci Simion, Mariano Lott, Tullio Simoni,
Sebastiano Zagonel, Donato Zagonel, Giampaolo Corona,
Gianfranco Dell'Antonia and Alessandro Rigobello
(medical staff). Leader Renzo Corona is on his
first hiamalayan expedition, but joined teams on
Chinese climbs , summited Patagonia summits, and has a
good curriculum on Dolomites walls. The team will fly
to Nepal on April 1st, heading for Tumlingtar.
Then a 12 day trek to base camp. From there, they
expect to establish 4 more camps with advanced base
camp at 5500 meters and three more to the top.
"We'll try the 3.000 meter leap in 4 days, and
the whole thing will require us 55 days in
Nepal", says Corona.
Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes,
northern Italy, journalist
Update
: Summit see the link above..
3.) Chilean Makalu
Expedition
North W. Ridge, leader Mr. Carlos Bascou from
Chile with 7 members.
Update
6/19/2001: Dear EverestNews.com, Congratulations for
your accurate and complete data base. It was a useful
source of information at the time we were planning our
expedition to Makalu. Now, we are back home and safe
after reaching the summit, I'd like to contribute with
further information. Expedition Members:
a. Mr.
Carlos Bascou, 27 years old (expedition leader)
b. Mr.
Ernesto Olivares, 34 (summit without oxygen)
c. Mr.
Pablo Gutierrez, 34 (summit)
d. Mr.
Rodrigo Echeverrνa, 32
e. Mr.
Francisco Larraνn, 28 (medical doctor)
f. Mr.
Josι Pedro Montt, 28
g. Mr.
Andrιs Stambuk, 26 (summit)
We hired the
trekking company Nepal Himal Treks. We
had one cook (Palde Tamang) and two kitchen boys
(Santa Man Tamang and Kumar Rai), but no high
altitude sherpas.
At
first, the plan was to reach the summit with oxygen,
and indeed two of the summiters did so. But, Ernesto
Olivares had to do it without oxygen because his
equipment failed. He realized it didn't work at the
base of the French Couloir (8200 m). The weather
started deteriorating at noon with clouds and snow. Pablo
Gutierrez and Andrιs Stambuk reached the summit at
14:00, 12 may, along with three members of the Kiwi
Expedition (Guy Cotter, Takashi Ozaki and Lhakpa
Dorje Sherpa). Ernesto Olivares reached the summit
one hour later. We worked in cooperation with the
kiwis, fixing 200 meters of rope the summit day. The
kiwis and the Chileans were
the first group in the summit this season.
Regards,
Andrιs Stambuk
Official
News: Chilean
Expedition members successfully climbed the Summit
8,463 m high Mt. Makalu I on 12th May 2001 at around
2:00 pm and 3:10 pm 12th May at 2:00 pm
Mr.
Pablo Gutierrez (1966), Electronic Engineer from
Antofagasta, Chile.
Mr. Andres Stambuk (1974), Civil Engineer from Lo
Barnechea, Chile.
12th May at 3:10 pm
Mr. Ernesto Olivares (1964) Mountain Guide from Depto
C, Nunoa, Chile.
It is also reported that Mr. Ernesto Olivares reached
the summit without oxygen. This seven member Chilean
Expedition team was permitted to climb 8,463 m high
Mt. Makalu from North West Ridge during this Spring
Season 2001 under the leadership of Mr. Carlos Bascou
(1973), a construction Engineer from Santiago, Chile.
4.)
"O O" Naturfreunde (Austria group) Makalu
Expedition: Normal Route, Mr. Hermann Trippocher
Leader with 10 members.
Name of climbers:
a. Mr. Hermann Trippacher- Leader
b. Mr. Franz Fend
c. Mr. Herbert Wolf
d. Mr. Siegfried Klenttner
e. Mr. Rudolf Denk
f. Mr. Fritz Hangweyer
g. Mr. Joachim Motitz
h. Mr. Walter Arnold
i. Ms. Gerline Kaltenbrunner
j. Ms. Roswita Trippacher
k. Mr. Karl Watschinger
Name of Nepalese
Staff (Asian Trekking):
a. Mr. Ramesh Kumar Basnet- Sirdar
b. Mr. Ningma Gelu Sherpa
c. Mr. Nga Temba Sherpa
5.)
Asturias (Spanish group) Makalu Expedition, North W.
Ridge, Mr. Eloy Sanchez Gonzalez, leader with 8
members.
6.)
Carinthia Makalu Expedition, North W. Ridge, Dr. Erich
Resch Leader from Austria with 6 members.
Update
Makalu 5/17/2001: The
missing alpinist is Erich Resch, leader of the
Carinthia expedition [see the expedition list below].
Another Austrian expedition (The "Nature
friend") is on the way to Makalu top today and
are looking for him.
Only
Erich Resch is missing. No other climbers are missing
or dead. All three Austrians who summited on Monday
are back safe at base camp.
Gigi
Zoppello, journalist, Trento (Italy)
At
least one Korean climber on this permit reached the
Summit.
7.)
Iranian Expedition
The
latest news from Makalu. According to the last
connection with the Iranian Makalu Expedition we received
this news. Seven Iranian Climbers could successfully
reach the summit of Makalu at about 5pm
13.05.2001.This is the first Iranian Expedition who
tried to climb the fifth highest peak of the
world.
Iranian expedition had 16 members and with the
leadership of Mr. Sadegh Aghajani went to Nepal. Name
of climbers will be announced later on. Hoimayoun
Bakhtiyari I.R.Iran Mountaineering Federation
Foreign Secretary
Eight
members and two Sherpa of Iranian Makalu Expedition
successfully climb the summit of 8,463 m Mt. Makalu I
on 13th May 2001 at 17:40 hrs.
1.
Mr. Mehdizadeh Akbar (1975), Employee from Iranian
Mountaineering
federation.
2. Mr. Zarej Todeshki Reza (1969), Employee from
Iranian Mountaineering federation.
3. Mr. Hassan Najarian Mohammed (1965), Employee from
Iranian Mountaineering federation.
4. Mr. Cheshmeh Ghasabani Jalal (1959), Employee from
Iranian Mountaineering federation.
5. Mr. Oraz Mohammed, Employee from Iranian
Mountaineering federation.
6. Mr. Aflaki Aghbelagh Eghbal, Employee from
Iranian Mountaineering
federation.
7. Mr. Khadem Asl Davoud (1957), Employee from Iranian
Mountaineering federation.
8. Mr. Giampaolo Corona (1963), Mountain Guide from
Mezzano (TN) Italy, 31426
9. Mr. Lhakpa Sherpa (39 Yrs), High altitude Sherpa
from Khumjung - 1-
Solukhumbu, Nepal
10. Mr. Lhakpa Wongel Sherpa (35 Yrs), High Altitude Sherpa
from Makalu VDC-5-Shankhuwa Shawa, Nepal.
This Expedition team was permitted to climb Makalu I
from North West Ridge under the leadership of Mr.
Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran, (1960), Employee from
Iranian Mountaineering federation during the Spring
Season of 2001.
HIMALAYAN Center Kathmandu, Nepal 16th May'2001
9.) Lesachtaler
Makalu-expedition, another Austrian expedition from
Carinthia (8 members). Helmut Orntner, the leader of
the expedition.
Report:
Report: 4 more Austrians reached the Summit of Makalu,
but sadly no signs of Erich
Resch the
missing alpinist from Helmut
Ortner
On
May 14th Alexander Lugger reached the top at 1.00 p.m.
Wastl Ruckensteiner and Karin Katstaller followed him
a short time later. Karin Katstaller is the first
Austrian woman who reached the summit. The second
group of the expedition started a few days later.
Helmut Ortner reached the top of the Makalu on May
18th, 4 p.m.
These
Summits appear to be still unconfirmed from Nepal.
Probably because of
the missing alpinist Erich Resch, leader of the
Carinthia expedition was lost right before Helmut's
attempt. Friends of the Resch family has told
EverestNews.com that this expedition did not see Erich
Resch on their Summit attempts.
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