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 Makalu 2001 Expeditions and News

Autumn Makalu: Swiss team led by Nobert Joss, Diego Stefani is a member.

Update 10/24/2001: Nobert Joss and Diego Stefani tried to reach the Summit at the end of last week, but Nobert, didn't feel so good at around 7500 meter, they decided to come back. They will try again, we are waiting for a telephone call from Diego, I will let you know, Bye Silvia

Update 10/19/2001: Weather and snow conditions are good. They have reached the base camp on the 10th of October, till now they have fixed a tent at about 6500 m. and went up to 7000 m. Silvia

Winter Makalu Expedition 2000/2001Krzysztof Wielicki takes on Makalu in the Winter ! Complete coverage on EverestNews.com here.

Spring 2001 Expeditions:

1.) Adventure Consultants Makalu 2001 led by Guy Cotter

Summits see the link above...

2.) American Makalu Expedition 2001

They are intending to make an alpine style ascent of the Southwest buttress, first climbed by the Czechoslovakians in 1976. There has not been a second ascent to date although attempts have been made. This expedition is a group of six climbers comprised of Brendan Cusick Leader, Carolyn Parker, John Kear, Chris Brown, Glenn Dunmire, and Cecelia Mortenson. If Cecelia and Carolyn are successful they will be the second and third American women to summit Makalu. They have significant equipment sponsorship from the North Face, Wild Country, Maxim ropes, Misty Mtn products and about 12 other kind folks the funds have been the hardest. 

"An alpine style attack of this mountain from any angle will be difficult. So we are very excited about pushing it. This has been my dream for ten years (I am 26) so to finally be getting ready to shove off is exciting. We have a very strong and dynamic team with a good mix of altitude experience and very hard technical climbers. This is what we will need for a single push in May. We will be acclimating for the month of April [on Makalu] then going for the top sometime in the second week of May. " Best,  Brendan Cusick

Leader American Makalu Expedition 2001 "in style" 

 

Update 5/18/2001: A family member of the team tells EverestNews.com, that after an unsuccessful attempt at the summit of Makalu, "all of the climbers left Base Camp this past Monday, the 14th, by helicopter. They are all doing fine."

 

We will let the expedition tell the story when they check back in...

2.) FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITION: Makalu Expedition. This team is composed by 10 Italian UIAGM Mountain Guides from Dolomites (S. Martino di Castrozza), led by expert Renzo Corona. They will attempt the normal route. Start of the expedition from Italy, April 1st. 2001.

More Details: A team of professional Italian Alpine Guides, named The Eagel of San Martino, will try Makalu summit to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their first expedition. The team will include Renzo Corona (leader), Narci Simion, Mariano Lott, Tullio Simoni, Sebastiano Zagonel, Donato Zagonel, Giampaolo Corona, Gianfranco Dell'Antonia and Alessandro Rigobello (medical staff). Leader Renzo Corona is on his first hiamalayan expedition, but joined teams on Chinese climbs , summited Patagonia summits, and has a good curriculum on Dolomites walls. The team will fly to Nepal on April 1st, heading for Tumlingtar. Then a 12 day trek to base camp. From there, they expect to establish 4 more camps with advanced base camp at 5500 meters and three more to the top. "We'll try the 3.000 meter leap in 4 days, and the whole thing will require us 55 days in Nepal", says Corona. 

Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes, northern Italy, journalist

Update : Summit see the link above..

3.) Chilean Makalu Expedition North W. Ridge, leader Mr. Carlos Bascou from Chile with 7 members.

Update 6/19/2001: Dear EverestNews.com, Congratulations for your accurate and complete data base. It was a useful source of information at the time we were planning our expedition to Makalu. Now, we are back home and safe after reaching the summit, I'd like to contribute with further information. Expedition Members:

a. Mr. Carlos Bascou, 27 years old (expedition leader)
b. Mr. Ernesto Olivares, 34 (summit without oxygen)
c. Mr. Pablo Gutierrez, 34 (summit)
d. Mr. Rodrigo Echeverrνa, 32
e. Mr. Francisco Larraνn, 28 (medical doctor)
f. Mr. Josι Pedro Montt, 28
g. Mr. Andrιs Stambuk, 26 (summit)
We hired the trekking company Nepal Himal Treks. We had one cook (Palde Tamang) and two kitchen boys (Santa Man Tamang and Kumar Rai), but no high altitude sherpas.
At first, the plan was to reach the summit with oxygen, and indeed two of the summiters did so. But, Ernesto Olivares had to do it without oxygen because his equipment failed. He realized it didn't work at the base of the French Couloir (8200 m). The weather started deteriorating at noon with clouds and snow. Pablo Gutierrez and Andrιs Stambuk reached the summit at 14:00, 12 may, along with three members of the Kiwi Expedition (Guy Cotter, Takashi Ozaki and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa). Ernesto Olivares reached the summit one hour later. We worked in cooperation with the kiwis, fixing 200 meters of rope the summit day. The kiwis and the Chileans were the first group in the summit this season.
 
Regards, Andrιs Stambuk

Official News: Chilean Expedition members successfully climbed the Summit 8,463 m high Mt. Makalu I on 12th May 2001 at around 2:00 pm and 3:10 pm 12th May at 2:00 pm 

Mr. Pablo Gutierrez (1966), Electronic Engineer from Antofagasta, Chile.
Mr. Andres Stambuk (1974), Civil Engineer from Lo Barnechea, Chile.

12th May at 3:10 pm
Mr. Ernesto Olivares (1964) Mountain Guide from Depto C, Nunoa, Chile.

It is also reported that Mr. Ernesto Olivares reached the summit without oxygen. This seven member Chilean Expedition team was permitted to climb 8,463 m high Mt. Makalu from North West Ridge during this Spring Season 2001 under the leadership of Mr. Carlos Bascou (1973), a construction Engineer from Santiago, Chile.

4.) "O O" Naturfreunde (Austria group) Makalu Expedition: Normal Route, Mr. Hermann Trippocher Leader with 10 members.

Name of climbers:
a. Mr. Hermann Trippacher- Leader
b. Mr. Franz Fend
c. Mr. Herbert Wolf
d. Mr. Siegfried Klenttner
e. Mr. Rudolf Denk
f. Mr. Fritz Hangweyer
g. Mr. Joachim Motitz
h. Mr. Walter Arnold
i. Ms. Gerline Kaltenbrunner

j. Ms. Roswita Trippacher
k. Mr. Karl Watschinger

 

Name of Nepalese Staff (Asian Trekking):
a. Mr. Ramesh Kumar Basnet- Sirdar
b. Mr. Ningma Gelu Sherpa
c. Mr. Nga Temba Sherpa

5.) Asturias (Spanish group) Makalu Expedition, North W. Ridge, Mr. Eloy Sanchez Gonzalez, leader with 8 members. 

6.) Carinthia Makalu Expedition, North W. Ridge, Dr. Erich Resch Leader from Austria with 6 members. 

Update Makalu 5/17/2001: The missing alpinist is Erich Resch, leader of the Carinthia expedition [see the expedition list below]. Another Austrian expedition (The "Nature friend") is on the way to Makalu top today and are looking for him.

Only Erich Resch is missing. No other climbers are missing or dead. All three Austrians who summited on Monday are back safe at base camp.

Gigi Zoppello, journalist, Trento (Italy)

At least one Korean climber on this permit reached the Summit. 

7.) Iranian Expedition

The latest news from Makalu. According to the last connection with the Iranian Makalu Expedition we received this news. Seven Iranian Climbers could successfully reach the summit of Makalu at about 5pm 13.05.2001.This is the first Iranian Expedition who tried to climb  the fifth highest peak of the world. 

Iranian expedition had 16 members and with the leadership of Mr. Sadegh Aghajani went to Nepal. Name of climbers will be announced later on. Hoimayoun Bakhtiyari   I.R.Iran Mountaineering Federation Foreign Secretary  

Eight members and two Sherpa of Iranian Makalu Expedition successfully climb the summit of 8,463 m Mt. Makalu I on 13th May 2001 at 17:40 hrs. 

1. Mr. Mehdizadeh Akbar (1975), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering
federation.
2. Mr. Zarej Todeshki Reza (1969), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation.
3. Mr. Hassan Najarian Mohammed (1965), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation.
4. Mr. Cheshmeh Ghasabani Jalal (1959), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation.
5. Mr. Oraz Mohammed, Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation.
6. Mr. Aflaki Aghbelagh Eghbal,  Employee from Iranian Mountaineering
federation.
7. Mr. Khadem Asl Davoud (1957), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation.
8. Mr. Giampaolo Corona (1963), Mountain Guide from Mezzano (TN) Italy, 31426 
9. Mr. Lhakpa Sherpa (39 Yrs), High altitude Sherpa from Khumjung - 1-
Solukhumbu, Nepal
10. Mr. Lhakpa Wongel Sherpa (35 Yrs), High Altitude Sherpa from Makalu VDC-5-Shankhuwa Shawa, Nepal.

This Expedition team was permitted to climb Makalu I from North West Ridge under the leadership of Mr. Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran, (1960), Employee from Iranian Mountaineering federation during the Spring Season of 2001. HIMALAYAN Center Kathmandu, Nepal 16th May'2001 

9.) Lesachtaler Makalu-expedition, another Austrian expedition from Carinthia (8 members). Helmut Orntner, the leader of the expedition.

Report: Report: 4 more Austrians reached the Summit of Makalu, but sadly no signs of Erich Resch the missing alpinist from Helmut Ortner

On May 14th Alexander Lugger reached the top at 1.00 p.m. Wastl Ruckensteiner and Karin Katstaller followed him a short time later. Karin Katstaller is the first Austrian woman who reached the summit. The second group of the expedition started a few days later. Helmut Ortner reached the top of the Makalu on May 18th, 4 p.m.

These Summits appear to be still unconfirmed from Nepal. Probably because of the missing alpinist Erich Resch, leader of the Carinthia expedition was lost right before Helmut's attempt. Friends of the Resch family has told EverestNews.com that this expedition did not see Erich Resch on their Summit attempts.

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