Manaslu 2002 led by Ralf Dujmovits

 

Ralf Dujmovits who has summited 8 of the 14 8000 meter peaks will lead this team of climbers on Manaslu in Spring 2002. He has reached the summits of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma (Main summit), Everest, and Dhaulagiri. 

AMICAL alpin Manaslu Expedition reaches Camp 2 (6600 meters)

We have spent three full days in BC to acclimatize after we reached BC (altitude 4800 m = summit of Mont Blanc) so quick. The air contains only half of the oxygen as is does at home. That means we have to relax and to go slow.

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We enlarged our BC, which is situated on the snow, and anchor all tents to make them storm proof. To get water (we have no water stream here), we build a snow-melting installation. Our team, 16 climbers, 3 high altitude porters and 4 cooks, need 180-250 liter every day. We put snow all over a 6x8 meter dark blue plastic cover and from 9 AM we get a constant stream of water in our water container. The record on the day with the most sunshine was 360 liters. We save a lot of kerosene by not using stoves to melt snow.

On April 21st we could start moving, we ascended to Camp 1 (5600 m). Half of the group went with Sepp on skies, and the "walkers" went with me. Everyone carried a part of his personal gear while the Sherpas and Qudrat carried tents and way-markers. The route to Camp 1, from a technical point of view the easiest part of the entire route, is a very nice hike with beautiful scenery and we had a clear morning sky.  You ascend gradually with the Manaslu Northeast face on your left side. Only the last 100 meter are a little more steep. 

Camp 1 (5600 m) is situated on a peninsula out of the Northeast face glacier, which has many crevasses and seracs. After our second ascend on the afternoon of April 23rd. Camp 1 had 10 tents and a toilet. In contradict to BC where the sky turned gray every afternoon we were here above the clouds the entire afternoon. Everything went well this afternoon and the coming night. We planned to descend to BC after this night for acclimatization. But the most of us felt so good they wanted to ascend to Camp 2 together with the 3 porters. Gianni and Dieter, leading most of the time, and Sepp, Petra, Hannes and I went up. Most of the others climbed just a few hundred meters above Camp 1 to improve the acclimatization. It was a long route and, though we were not sure to find a good site for Camp 2, we enjoyed the beautiful weather. We ascended 1000 meters to find a good campsite just near a 40 meter wide crevasse. At 6600 meters we put up a tent, on the spot of the already successful Norwegians, and left the other carried gear in it. 

It was a beautiful day, far above us clouds in a clear sky. We were, together, looking for a safe campsite on this huge mountain face We are to early to high and we have to take more time from now. It is 11 days after we left Katmandu and now we are sitting together and talking for two hours on 6600 meters. But when the snow started to become to soft we descended to Camp 1 to spend another night.  While writing this report on April 24th, another 3 porters ascended with the last tents for Camp 2. Than we have everything in Camp 2 to spend the night for acclimatization. However we will stay a couple of days in BC to rest. We are ahead of our acclimatization schedule so we should take a break.

Last week, on April 21st, at 9.30 AM, the first climbers reached the summit of Manaslu: two Sherpas, Dawa Tsering and Chilu Pemba and two Norwegian brothers Sven and Jon Gangdal [and Andrew Lock]. Congratulations !! We will benefit from their recommendations and experiences. They gave us also their fixed ropes in exchange for a large donation for the construction of a school building in Samagaon, near the basis of Manaslu. We will do. 

Best regards from Manaslu,
The entire expedition team and Ralf Dujmovits

Alle Bilder AMICAL alpin - Christine Kopp 

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