April 12: Santi Bazaar to Labubeshi

From Dan: These pictures (not yet available) are from our second night on the trail at Shati Bazaar along the Buri Gandaki River. We camped in a flat area next to the village and were the main attraction that evening. Scott was showing pictures of his family as a group of children gathered around (with Tom looking on). It is very common to see a young girl carrying her younger sibling on her back (notice the Nike stocking cap).

In the morning the porters started assembling at 5:30 so they can start in the cool of the day. Our porters form a long line along the river as they left at 6:30.

Today we made it to Lapubasi and tomorrow are heading for Dobh.

From Mike: “Mike is slow but Manaslu is patient”

Trying to find my pace, moving slowly, taking in the scenery, conserving my energy.  I’m trying to eat everything that Krishna makes, but there just isn’t enough room.  We walk for two hours, eat and then walk for another two hours.

Shiva, our Liaison Officer, has proven to be quite an asset.  He is an excellent translator and is always available to give us the lowdown on the Nepalese culture.

Many of the children are asking for pens; I suppose this is an example of good Western intentions gone bad.  I may be incorrect here, but I believe that there has been a low flow of Westerners up the Buri Gandaki.  Shiva confirmed that this trek is much more unspoiled than the Annapurna circuit or the Everest base camp trek.

Pulled into camp at around 3:15 and I tried to help Kusang, one of our Sherpas, to set up the tents.  I think I bothered him more than helped.  I think he would be more comfortable if I were standing behind him yelling “faster, faster” rather than trying to help.

A mother brought her little boy over to our camp; he’d fallen and cut his head just above his right eye.  It was a good-sized gash, but it wasn’t infected, so Brian cleaned it up and put on a bandaid.  I took a while to soothe the mom, but she went away happy.  Next came a porter with a cut leg, then a local man with a gash down to his shinbone.  Dr. Brian’s office was now open.  A lady stopped me and showed me her baby who was suffering from a major skin disease.  There was nothing I, or anybody on the team, could do so I told her to take the baby to the medical clinic. Kusang told me she had been four times.  It’s tough to see children suffering and not be able to do anything about it.

After dinner the local townspeople put on a dance show for us.  The two dancers were accompanied by a handheld drum and singing.  They managed to get all of us out in the dance floor.  More to come.

Yak cheese tastes good.

April 14 From Scott for the Team:

We are all having a wonderful time on the trekking portion of our trip.  We are in fact living like kings, and are fueling the local economy by employing 85 to 90 porters.  We are healthy and rested, and are gaining weight by all the great food.  Weather has been very comfortable (80's and 90's) with no rain so far, though afternoons do seem to cloud up and threaten thunderstorms.  People and culture are absolutely wonderful.  We are all thoroughly enjoying our encounters with the local Nepalese folks.  In one village where we stayed (Lapabesi) the town put on a folk dance show for us, and even in fact got us out dancing with them! (See previous dispatch for photo of Mike dancing.)

Dispatches