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March 16-31th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 3/31/99 Report
Cho Oyu Spring 99: EverestNews.com first
Dispatch from the American Women's Century Expedition (Cho Oyu All women expedition)
lead
by Supy (Amy) Bullard is here !
Himalayas/Everest Spring 99: "At the moment
three Finnish climbers at targeting to the Himalayas. The most reputable of them is Veikka
Gustafsson. At the moment he is leading the game of all Scandinavian climbers in bagging
8000 meter peaks. Veikka has left for Manaslu and Dhaulagiri with Ed Viesturs and has had
shots in Finnish TV and radio. He arrived in Kathmandu on March 24 and is already on the
approach to Manaslu. Webpage http://www.veikka.com
" (one of the former web sites of the week).
"Two other climbers are Antti Mankinen and Ari Piela. They belong to Borislav
Dimitrov's expedition on the North Side of Everest. However, both climbers climb
individually. Mankinen has homepage in Finnish at
http://www.netron.fi/antti.
He will leave Helsinki on Saturday, April 3. Piela has no homepage but has described his
plans in the greatest daily in Finland. He aims to climb Messner route with his Mexican
partner. Piela has climbed on Lhotse on 1997 but was forced to withdraw at 7400 due to bad
weather.
That all for now", Jukka Tarkkala LT-Consultants Ltd. (website:
www.ltcon.fi)
I talked with Antti Mankinen yesterday, he said on Everest
North side expedition: - the leader is Bulgarian Borislav Dimitrov and co-leader Russian
(Viacheslav) Slava Skripko - the climbers/clients come from Bulgaria, Russia, Mexico,
France and Finland - there are 18 clients -> 20 members - the team intends to meet in
Kathmandu on April 6.- the summits attempts will happen between May 10.-20. Jukka
Tarkkala, LT-Consultants Ltd. (website: www.ltcon.fi)
Everest Spring 99: HKE Jagged
Globe: HKE will be sharing a permit with Henry Todd's group on the South Side of
Everest along with several others sharing this permit. News from Steve Bell, " We are
sharing a permit with Henry and also some of the expedition infrastructure. But the
team will be fairly self-contained, with its own base camp, Sherpas and leader. We
only have a small team this year, hence the need to link up with another team to make it
viable. The team is: David Hamilton (Leader, UK), Joby Ogwyn (USA), Jaime
Vinals (Guatamala), Karl Flynn (Ireland), Marcella Dunne (Ireland), And that's it
! Simon Lowe is the Operations Director and he will be overseeing the expedition
from here. We will keep you updated."
All the best, Steve Bell
HKE Jagged Globe new web site is http://www.hkexpeds.demon.co.uk/index.html. If
you has not seen it, they have done a very nice job. Steve Bell and HKE Jagged Globe are
known as one of the most successful guiding companies on Everest and other peaks. More
later...
Alan Hinkes, England's famous mountaineer who
has already climbed ten 8000 meter peaks has arrived in Kathmandu for his eleventh
8000 meter climb to Mt. Makalu.
Alan Hinkes
plans to finish all the Himalaya & Karakoram Range fourteen 8000 meter peaks by the
end of this century.
Alan Hinkes is the first British climber who has climbed all
five 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan. He is also the first British climber who has
successfully climbed ten 8000 meter peaks. Now the remaining 8000 meter peaks he still has
to climb are all in Nepal: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Annapurna & Dhaulagiri.
Challenge 8000 is Alan Hinkes attempting to be the first
British climber to climb all 14 peaks over 8000 meter. Climbing these ten 8000ers has been
a long and arduous task, involving more than 20 expeditions over 11 years. Surviving is
success and the summit is only a bonus - no mountain is worth a life. In fact, Alan’s
motto is "no mountain is worth even a finger or a toe to frostbite".
Alan Hinkes was last in Nepal in 1997 when he climbed Lhotse
8511 meters, the worlds 4th highest mountain. Last year (1998), he climbed Nanga Parbat
(8125 meters) in Pakistan. This is the most westerly 8000 meter peak in the Himalaya. It
has been dubbed the ‘Killer Mountain" due to its tragic and dangerous
reputation. Along with K2, it is a major prize in extreme altitude mountaineering.
Alan Hinkes expects Makalu to be a serious and demanding
climb more challenging than it’s mighty near neighbor Everest, which he summitted in
1996. He has tried Makalu twice before. So he feels it is like returning to an old friend.
His expedition to Makalu is being organized by his old
friend Mr. Bikrum Pandey, a tourism professional of Nepal.
Cho Oyu Spring 99: EverestNews.com will be
receiving reports from the American Women's Century Expedition (Cho Oyu All women
expedition) led by Supy (Amy) Bullard. Look for a new page for these women climbers
attempting Cho Oyu without Sherpa support and without the aid of bottled oxygen. More Soon
!
Everest Spring 99: We continue to receive
questions on Heidi Howkins Last word, EverestNews.com
heard
was that Heidi is planning Everest and then K2 in 1999. Guta will again be reporting for
EverestNews.com on K2. However, Guta will be at K2 base camp this year. If you know of other
expedition heading to K2 in 1999, please let us know (everestnews2004@adelphia.net), as Guta is
attempting to contact everyone. Right now, K2 1999, appears to be just a few expeditions.
Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign: Arbin Timilsina is the
15 years boy who is going to attempt to Summit Everest this Spring. The three
climbing sherpas who will support him during his climbing are Ang Gyalgen Sherpa (Three
Summits of Everest), Ang Mingma Sherpa (One Summit) and Phurba Sherpa All Sherpa work for
Asian-Trekking, who is handling this expedition.
Change of plans for Enrique Guallart. He will walk the 150
Km. (93 miles) from Jiri to Everest base camp, repeating the course of the 1953 British
expedition. *
This month of March, the weather is becoming quite
problematic in Nepal. Already in the acclimatization phase, Enrique has experienced a
constant and, in some cases, very strong wind, very unusual for this time of the year in
the Himalayas of Nepal.
Airplanes of all sizes are having problems flying, including
taking off and landing in Kathmandu. Specifically, yesterday there was a 767
from the Thai airline which was trying to land, but gave up seconds before touching down,
regained altitude, and flew to Dacca (Bangladesh), waiting for conditions to change. Also
yesterday, 4 flights to Lukla were cancelled, and today no airplanes are taking off. There
is a mixture of fog, pollution, and strong intermittent gusts of wind. Consequently, the
expedition "1999 Everest, Valencia Terra i Mar" cannot stay idle...waiting,
waiting, waiting, (like they say here in Nepal), and so tomorrow it is taking off to Jiri
by bus.
Enrique and his Sherpas took a bus at sunrise to reach this
small village located in the foothills close to Kathmandu. It will be a "gentle"
ride of 6 hours to cover the 200 Km. (125 miles) of winding and very narrow Nepalese
roads.
Jiri had been the starting point of expeditions in the 50's,
when the Tibetan government closed access to the Himalayas from the north and at the same
time, the Nepalese government opened its borders to foreigners, thus beginning the history
of many expeditions that explored, and eventually conquered, the highest peaks of the
Himalayas and of the planet.
This route was walked by such climbers as Shipton, Hunt, and
Hillary in the 50's. *
This access to Everest consists of a long walk of 120 Km.
(75 miles), which, when added to the journey of 130 Km. (82 miles) that Enrique already
went through a few days ago by the high valleys of Gokyo and Solu Khumbu, will make for
great training and will allow him to arrive to Everest in excellent shape.
The days it takes to cover this route, as well as the
vertical gain, varies considerably when compared to other accesses: instead of walking the
8 to 9 days from Lukla to Base camp, starting at 2.480 meters (8.136 ft.), this route will
take approximately 15 to 16 days, and it will start at a mere 1.000 meters (3.280 ft.),
thus making the vertical gain to the summit of Everest consist of almost 8.000 meters !
(26.250 ft.) !!!!.
See EverestNews.com page for Enrique
(which we hope to update soon) and his web site in Spanish
http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ever/ever.htm
* The very early Everest expeditions started walking not
far out of Kathmandu. Jiri primarily became the walk starting point about 15 years ago
when the road was extended. Some of the earliest trips even went up the Barun Valley and
crossed over, not the present route. Flying into Lukla for people actually climbing
Everest is a comparatively recent phenomenon. The walk from Jiri was always considered
necessary for proper acclimatisation. Enrique is doing the same route but starting at
Jiri, after his 17 days trek when he went to Gokyo Peak, he crossed Cho-La, and did the
traverse to Lobuche and then climbed Kala Pattar and back Kathmandu.
The Royal Nepal Airlines strike is over.
The Staff is taking Sunday off, see You on Monday !
Daily News: 3/26/99 Report
Risk tells us that they
will be updating their site soon with information on their climbers Spring 1999 Himalayan
expeditions. They also mentioned that on the Russian expedition will be a climber that is
64 years old, who would be the oldest to summit if successful. Check them out for one the
best sites on the web, Risk
Jamie Clarke: "Some of your visitors who followed Jamie
Clarke's trek through your previous postings that Jamie and his wife Barbara will trek
through Nepal, visiting base camp, next month. Teammate Bruce Kirkby will travel to
Tibet." Sarah Hobbs
EXPLORER
JAMIE CLARKE COMPLETES RECORD-BREAKING, HISTORIC FOOT JOURNEY ACROSS THE EMPTY
QUARTER DESERT OF ARABIA Six-Week Trek, First Foot Crossing in More than 50 Years,
Beats Less than 50/50 Odds of Completion Sheik Sayed’s Famous Camel Guard
to Escort Team to Abu Dhabi Reception ABU DHABI: – Defying the odds, Jamie
Clarke, explorer and Mt. Everest summiter, successfully completed his 6-week crossing
of the Empty Quarter of Arabia, a desert environment so harsh that no human can survive
there year-round and into which few people venture on foot. The completion makes him the
first Westerner in more than 50 years to cross this treacherous desert on foot. The
620-mile long NEC Technologies Empty Quarter Expedition began on February 2, on the
coast of Oman, continued into the world’s largest sand desert (the Empty Quarter)
through Saudi Arabia, and ended today on the coast near Abu Dhabi in the United Arab
Emirates (UAE). Expedition leader Jamie Clarke -- also an author, filmmaker and
professional speaker -- says some of the challenges they faced during this grueling
journey included towering, 600-foot sand dunes, quicksand, scorching temperatures
(sometimes 120 degrees Fahrenheit), blinding sandstorms, long stretches with limited
access to water and a painful, non-fatal scorpion bite. With no permanent roads and few
signs of civilization, even the native Bedu people rarely enter the Empty Quarter on foot.
"During our six-week trek, we saw stunning beauty in this awesome desert that took
our breath away," said Jamie Clarke. "The team experienced a rain shower in arid
terrain that had not seen rain in 10 years, slid down sand dunes as if we were children
playing, and other once-in-a-lifetime experiences. My teammates and I know we are
fortunate to have had the opportunity to make this historic journey and we thank all those
who helped us make it happen." In celebration of completion of this historic
adventure, the president of the UAE, Sheik Sayed, will greeted the team with a
formal diplomatic reception. The team was escorted to the meeting with the Sheik by his
famous camel guard.
Jamie Clarke, 31, crossed the Empty Quarter with teammates
mountain climber/ photographer Bruce Kirkby, 31, and
filmmaker/attorney/brother Leigh Clarke, 33, as well as three native Bedu
(Bedouin) of the Bait Kathir tribe, the nomadic people of Arabia, and 12 camels.
"As a team, we pushed ourselves hard, both physically and mentally. We took on added
risk by cutting through a treacherous section filled with quicksand called the Umm as
Samim – Mother of Poison – in order to make up time," said Jamie Clarke,
31. "This has been an exhilarating challenge in my life-long quest for adventure and
exploration." SCHOOL CHILDREN JOINED IN THE ADVENTURE Around the world,
more than 23,000 school children have been following the team’s progress via
classroom activities and the expedition web site www.alwaysadventure.net , where the team posted
updates throughout the trek. Jamie Clarke, 31, is the project visionary who
managed the expedition financing through his professional speaking. Jamie’s May 1997
summit of Mt. Everest continues a life of outstanding achievement and exploration.
Bruce Kirkby, 31, organized the logistics of the desert expedition and secured diplomatic
permissions for the team. A member of Jamie’s Everest team in 1997, Bruce is an
award-winning photographer and avid adventurer. Leigh Clarke, 33, is an experienced
adventure traveler who managed the legal details of both the Empty Quarter and 1997
Everest Expeditions.
Daily News: 3/25/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: Asian-Trekking has
confirmed that they will have a South Side expedition (in addition to the Pokhara
Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign) in Spring 99. Their South Side expedition is being
headed by Benedict Kashakashvili. Ang Tshering Sherpa Managing Director
of Asian-Trekking, tells EverestNews.com, "We have a Georgian
Leader leading both of our expeditions, from North Side and South Side. The one leading
the expedition on the North Side with Mr. Barth (American) is Tortladze Gia. The other one
leading the expedition on the South Side is Benedict Kashakashvili. The expedition led by
Benedict Kashkashvili took a flight to Lukla this morning (25th March) on its way to the
Everest Base Camp. Arvin Timilsina (Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign) is scheduled to
take a flight to Lukla on 27th March on his way to Everest Base Camp. Sincerely, Ang
Tshering Sherpa Managing Director Asian-Trekking"
Another member of the Asian-Trekking expedition is Lev
Sarkisov. Lev is an ethnic Armenian from Georgia, who if successful will become the oldest
person to summit Everest beating the record of Spaniard Ramon Blanco who reached the
summit when he was 60 years, 160 days old in 1993. Lev, who will be 60 years and 149 days
old on May 1. Lev will be climbing with the Georgian expedition (above) led by Benedict
Kashakashvili along the normal Southeast Ridge route. Source: Asian-Trekking.
Asian-Trekking is expected to "support" several
other Everest Expeditions, also.
EverestNews.com
will also soon be receiving reports from American
Willie Benegas with OTT Expeditions. Willie left America last week. More on Willie
Soon.
On OTT Expeditions, Katja Staartjes is with the OTT
Expedition this spring on Everest . She climbed Cho Oyu last spring in an all Dutch
expedition, led by Rene de Bos. If she succeeds she will be the first Dutch woman to
Summit Everest. Her web site in Dutch is http://www.peijnenburg.nl/right/expeditie.htm.
As you can see the News is rolling in, and we have not hit
April Yet !
Everest Spring 99: Bernard Voyer will be one of the
several other expeditions sending EverestNews.com reports this year from Everest. Bernard's
wife will be at BC during the climb. His web site details some of his other climbs: Bernard Voyer Everest Expedition. It is unclear to
EverestNews.com if he plans on updating his web site during the climb or not. Bernard Voyer is attempting to complete the Seven Summits. His web site is in French and English.
Reports continue that Everest received a much smaller amount
of snow than normal, as reported earlier by Enrique Guallart-Furio.
The pyramid can be seen as black rock in his pictures, which Enrique
considers good. We will try to get a picture on the site later in the week.
EverestNews.com
welcomes the many New visitors coming to our
site in last few days as the news of the Everest climbs begins. We suggest you visit our home page and site index to learn about
other News and Features.
Look for many more changes in EverestNews.com
in the next few
weeks. As always, your feedback is welcome and appreciated: everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Please understand
that as we get closer to May, EverestNews.com simply does not have the staff to reply to
every e-mail (which we hate), but we ask for your understanding during this period as the
News rolls in.
The Royal Nepal Airlines strike continues.
BLOCKBUSTER reportedly is being releasing on March 30, Everest (IMAX). Everest (IMAX)
can be purchased from Amazon for shipping on March 30 Everest (IMAX)
(1998) -- Everest; VHS !
See EverestNews.com page for Enrique
and his web site in Spanish http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ever/ever.htm
Liz Hawley is the foremost keeper of records for 8000 meter
peaks.
Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign: Arbin Timilsina 15
years old climber. Arbin Timilsina is the 15 years boy who is going to attempt to Summit
Everest this Spring. Three climbing sherpas will support him during his climbing.
Asian-Trekking is handling this expedition. Arbin Timilsina is planning to leave his home
(Pokhara) on 26 March. His program:
26 March Pokhara-Kathmandu
27 March Kathmandu-Lukla
28 March to 3 April Trek to base camp
4 April-11 May Acclmatization and setting camps
12 May-17 May Climbing period
23 May Back to Kathmandu
IMAX Everest video will be available for shipping on March 30
! Everest
(IMAX) (1998) -- Everest; VHS !
Daily News: 3/22/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: Jeff and Kelly Rhoads,
has joined the American expedition (1999 American Everest Expedition leader Pete Athans),
on the South Side for 1999. Jeff summitted Everest twice last Spring from the South
Side, reportedly becoming the first non-nepalese climber to summit Everest two
times in the same season. Last Spring Jeff was the camera man on Tom Whittaker's
expedition. Jeff first summitted Everest on the May 20th and then again on May 27th with
Tom.
Other 8000 Meter peak expedition issued for Spring 99 in
Nepal that EverestNews.com has not reported on:
1.) Wilderness Annapurna 99 Expedition, Ferran Garcia Creix,
leader, Route North Face, Spanish expedition with 9 climbers on the permit
2.) Basque Expedition Annapurna 99, Juan Oiarzabal
Urteaga,
Route: North Face, Spain, 7 climbers on permit.
3.) Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition, Martin Fisher leader, Swiss
expedition, 4 climbers on permit.
4.) Australian American Makalu Expedition. Matthew John
Rolfe Leader, Route: North West Ridge.
5.) Saskatchewan Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu, Leader:
Andrew McKinlay, Route: North East Face, Canada Expedition with 7 climbers on permit.
A few other expeditions are expected for Spring 99,
including other we have reported on earlier. The numbers of climbers could change as we
are still somewhat early in this process.
IMAX Everest video will be available for shipping on March 30
! Everest
(IMAX) (1998) -- Everest; VHS ! Our Price: Only $13.99
Daily News: 3/20-21/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: Is finding some changes and
problems in Nepal this year. For one, the Ministry of Tourism changed personnel 1/1/99,
which is causing delays for some expeditions permits being issued.
Two, Royal Nepal Airlines has been on strike grounding the entire
fleet of the Nepal's National Flag carrier. Replacements are being hired.
The management has also sought explanation from 12 other
pilots and 18 cabin crew members, who have joined the strike protesting RNAC's latest
aircraft leasing deal with China Southwest Airlines (CWSA).
President of Pilot Association, Capt. Bijaya Giri says that
their main intention behind this strike is to Save Royal Nepal Airlines from this
controversial aircraft leasing contract, and the corrupt Tourism Minister & Airline
Officials who have okayed the contract, paying nearly US$ 500 more per flight hour, as the
allegation goes in local dailies and periodicals, than what the Airline was used to paying
in the past.
Pilot Association is demanding that Airline void the
controversial leasing agreement with China Air in favor of lease-purchasing a Boeing B-767
jet.
Kickbacks and bribes have been alleged in this new Aircraft
leasing deal. The new Aircraft is to replace, if all goes well, a similar jet currently on
service with the Airline leased from Russia-based Transero Company. But the trouble is
neither Airline Management nor Pilot Association seems to bow down to let the Airline take
off the ground even after these 3 days of paralysis.
This has hurt the start of Nepal's spring season tourism
very badly.
Source: Bikrum Pandey & Himalaya Center of Nepal
If you are traveling to Nepal this Spring, pack several more
books then normal !
Goran Kropp, and his expedition are at Everest BC according
to Bikrum.
IMAX Everest video will be available for shipping on March 30
! Everest
(IMAX) (1998) -- Everest; VHS ! Our Price: Only $13.99
Daily News: 3/19/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: The listing of
Mountaineering Expeditions for Everest Spring 99 from Nepal has been released from the
Ministry of Tourism in Nepal. This lists is only for permits that has been granted and
paid for so far. As EverestNews.com has been reporting, a few expeditions has dropped out for
Spring 99. Additional expedition(s) are expected.
1.) OTT Everest Expeditions with lead climber Jon Tinker has two full
permits.
5.) 1999 International Everest Spring Expedition, Swedish
expedition (detailed reported earlier)
6.) Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign: Arbin Timilsina 15
years old climber.
7.) 1999 Expedition Everest: Bernard Voyer.
More detailed news soon on these expeditions, as everything
becomes set for Everest Spring 99. EverestNews.com is planning on receiving News reports from
5 of these 7 expeditions in one form or another.
Daily News: 3/18/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: News from our friend Enrique Guallart-Furio, who is one of several expeditions who will
be sending EverestNews.com updates from Everest this season: " I enclosed photo taken in
Gokyo Peak with EverestNews.com looking Everest.
My acclimation trek was very good. I did not have any headaches and I feel very well. I
went alone with my friend Ang Dorjee,
Tenzing Sherpa (cook), two kitchen boys and two yaks. During 17 days we went to Gokyo
Peak, we cross Cho-La, we traverse to Lobuche and climb Kala Pattar and back Kathmandu.
The trip was a little windy. Ang Dorjee
checked with binoculars the Hillary Step and there is not much snow in the rock left below
the wall, so this is very good. But at the same time, we checked from Kala Pattar
with binoculars and we did not see few meters snow going down from South Summit, but like
the people walk up the ridge and maybe there is snow up the ridge but we cannot check from
Kala Pattar.
Ang Dorjee is from Pangboche. He said it
did not snow during the winter. The mountain is very dry. Good from one side but bad for
other, so much ice. Best wishes"
Enrique
EverestNews.com
received feedback on Erik Weihenmayer comments
on Aconcagua's sanitation problem from Willie Benegas (OTT Expedition guide for South
American treks and member of OTT's Expedition to Everest in 99) and others. Willie and the
others thought Erik's comments were too strong. There are about 3000 climbers during
this 90 day climbing season on Aconcagua and yes there are issues, but that conditions in
98-98 were pretty good. The park service has a pretty large group of people who work on
these issues to keep the mountain in good shape. The comments also included that they
thought climbers themselves should do more of the clean-up. We will follow up with Erik...
more later on the conditions and comments.
A. I have some great gear sponsors. Mountain Hard Wear has
been very supportive. During my mountaineering trips, I always wear Mountain Hard Wear
fleece, gortex, and long underwear. The quality of their gear is outstanding. Osprey
packs also supported our Aconcagua climb; I found their Zenith Pro pack to be the best
I've ever worn. Salomon gave us wonderful trekking boots which we wore on the 38
miles to base camp. They have the best ankle support of any boot I've ever worn. I also
couldn't get by in the mountains without my Leki Nordic poles.
My upcoming Polar Circus climb is being supported by Boreal.
I have always worn their climbing shoes, but recently they've come out with an insulated
leather boot for ice climbing and winter mountaineering. I'm going to use these on our
Polar Circus climb. Trango is also supporting Polar Circus with the donation of Captain
Hook ice tools, harnesses, and crampons. I've found the climbing companies to be
very supportive, perhaps because of the unusualness of a blind climber. Usually, the word,
"blind," and the word, "climber," don't appear in the same sentence.
Q. As an American, what should we do about the garbage on
mountains that seems to grow every year?
A. On Denali, the park service does a pretty good job
keeping the mountain clean. Their are latrines at most camps. They have a "bag in,
bag out" policy.
On Kilimanjaro, the biggest problem is the deforestation of
the mountain. Local porters and guides don't use white gas with camp stoves, but burn
trees for fuel. The few trees on the mountain are quickly disappearing.
Aconcagua has a huge sanitation problem. The normal route is
the worst. Dead rotting mules lay on the side of the trail below basecamp. Few of the
camps have latrines, so people are going everywhere. Most rocks have piles of crap under
them. Toilet paper blows liberally in the wind. Many people get sick from viruses. My
theory is that they get sick from drinking unsanitary water and from breathing in dust
comprised of dried up feces. This is why we climbed the Polish Glacier side of the
mountain. its more scenic.
On Aconcagua, the park service needs to install latrines at
each camp. There need to be huge fines for people who litter. The park service needs to
get tough !
Q. What advise would you give for people who want to take up
climbing today ?
A. You can get started by taking some classes through a
local mountain club. Learn the basics. Go climbing with experienced climbers or guides.
Learn to function self sufficiently in the mountains. Read a book on avalanche danger.
Take a wilderness First Responder course. Test yourself in the mountains in small
progressions. If you live through your first five years, you'll probably make it !
Q. What would you like Erik Weihenmayer legacy to be ?
A. I don't necessarily want to be known as the blind
mountaineer. I'd rather be known as a competent mountaineer who happens to be blind.
That's an important distinction for me. I'd like to be known as a person who broke through
barriers, who shattered people’s perceptions about what is possible and what is not.
When these perceptions are rebuilt, thousands and thousands of people will live their
lives with more opportunity. Then perhaps, people will no longer be judged by their
disability but by their ability.
Q. What are your present objectives in climbing ? You
seemed to have already climbed Everest ten times in life. I am very happy I read
your story, it moved me. Thank You. What next for you in life ?
A. I have all sorts of climbing objectives. I have a tic
list a mile long. Soon I’m heading up to Polar Circus in Canada. This climb is an
800m, mostly vertical ice climb. We hope to climb it in a day. I also have lots of general
adventuring objectives: to ski in the paraolympics, to race across America on a tandem
bike, to run an Iron Man. I respect Alex Lowe's philosophy to be an "expert in
mediocrity," which doesn't mean to do lot's of activities badly but to have the
boldness and courage to throw ourselves into new endeavors. Some things, I'm sure, I'll
find I can’t do so well or I can’t do at all, but other things, I know,
I’ll be good at. I believe in being the best at the things I can do, and letting go
of the things I can't do. I know I will never drive a car and I will never catch a
baseball, but there are lifetimes and lifetimes of achievement awaiting me, so I have more
than enough to keep me busy. If we are able to reach just a fraction of our potential as
human beings, then that would be much more than we could ever possibly dream.
Everest Spring 99: The number of expeditions
on the South Side appears to be thinning out for Spring 99. Among those expeditions
deciding against attempting the South Side in 99 will be the Czech expedition. The Czech
expedition will still be attempting Lhotse in Spring 99, but has decided against Everest
due to the dollars cost of the permit. Note, this Czech team attempted Everest from the
North Side last year, resulting in success of two members reaching the summit without the
use of bottled oxygen. All members of this Czech team has at least one 8000 meter summit
with the average member having over two 8000 meter summits (All summits were reached
without oxygen.). Very few expeditions has this kind of experience today. This group of
climbers includes Mrs. Sona Vomackova, who has reached the summit of Makalu without
oxygen. She is one of the few women alive who has summitted one of the more difficult
8000
meter peaks without oxygen.
LHOTSE
Spring 99, will include at least two other expeditions, including a group of
Henry Todd climbers.
Look for some surprise coverage of additional 8000 meter
peaks this Spring from EverestNews.com in additional to intense coverage of Everest. Yes, we
have been busy !
