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 Mar 13-14th, 2000 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from Over 20 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

Daily News: 3/14/2000 Report

  • Everest Spring 2000: Jagged Globe, Featured Expedition

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide.

Steve and Jagged Globe are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the Best.

This year's expedition will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest expeditions and reached the Summit of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged Globe for many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their UK technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using the same Sherpa team as last year.

This is another international team, comprising:  Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul Giorgio (USA).

Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to to be the oldest summiter this season - he's 61 in March!

Simon Lowe, one of their most experienced leaders having led successful expeditions to Everest. Simon is Jagged Globe's Operations Director.

Check them out at :http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

They leave on March 23th to attempt the South East ridge of Everest.

  • Andalucia Everest 2000: Featured Expedition

Leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ

This experienced group of seven climbers includes two women: Manuel Gonzαlez, Manuel Salazar, Shelter Ortega, Immaculate Fernandez, Santiago Millαn, Fernando Fernandez-Villancos and Jose Antonio Perez. They have trained the last year for Everest.

EXPEDITION ANDALUCIA EVEREST 2000 ALREADY IS IN NAMCHE BAZAAR

NAMCHE BAZAAR, 13 OF MARCH 2000

Day 12 : The three Andalusian mountaineers started three Andalusian mountaineers started three Andalusian mountaineers started the approach to Everest Base Camp after completing the previous preparationsThey have found bad weather and, at the moment are in Nanche Bazaar (3,443 ms), one of the important villages in the sherpa region. Tomorrow a helicopter with 3,000 kg of fooand equipment will arrive at Syamboche. They hope that in the morning conditions will be good early and supplying will be completed without difficulties.

Today's Picture from Everest (will pop-up).

In order to arrive at Nanche Bazaar, the Andalusians flew in small plane into the small airport of Lukla. From there, they made a short day hike into the mountains. Then on to Namche surpassing one of the important passes during the approach to the mountain. During the route, they crossed one of the legendary bridges of the Himalayas, installed on Dhudh Kosi river. This river that takes the name of the first climber of Everest (Bridge Hillary) Edmund Hillary, who arrived at the summit in May of 1953 next to the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. 

The climbers are finding the last days of winter pose the biggest problem while transporting the loads by ground. Since, at this altitude of the region is basically uninhabited, there is very little traffic of animals or people. In addition, the Expedition Andalucia Everest 2000 was the first to arrive in Nepal and the region of Solu Khumbu.  This  fact has logistical advantages and disadvantages. On one side, they will not find it difficult to contact porters and animals to perform the transports. On the other, they see a complicated task of confronting the solitary arrival @ basecamp, partiularly if too much snow has accumulated and covers the area.

Manuel Salazar, Fernando Fernandez-Vivancos and Manuel Gonzalez, are in perfect physical condition and confront this new load phase with optimism since they consider the time sufficient, they will have enough to solve any problem that arises.

Source: Andalucia Everest 2000 http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm

EverestNews.com will publish the Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm site.

Check them out Today !

  • Everest Spring 2000: Featured Expedition

EverestNews.com is featuring Byron and his expedition as one of our "featured" expeditions this Spring.

Two days and counting. Here's Byron's diary for Sunday:

March 12, 2000: I have finally finished packing all my personal equipment, having arranged it in bags that will go directly to Basecamp, and bags that will come with me on the trek in. Jamie and Zach are getting close to being finished arranging all their clothes as well.

Over at the office, we continued weighing, packing and arranging all the expedition supplies into barrels and gear bags. In the early afternoon, we received from Vancouver our additional barrels to complete the packing. By 9 pm our packing was pretty much completed, we now only have to wait till tomorrow for some final items and we'll be all done and ready. In total we have 16- 100 l plastic barrels, 32- gear bags (including two pieces for each team member), 6- large Pelican cases, 4- pieces for the Broadcast gear, and an assortment of other smaller ones.

For the rest of the update check his site at :  www.cbc.ca/everest2000.

  • Would You like to send someone an Everest postcard ?

Thanks to Byron and CBC !

http://cbc.ca/everest2000/postcards/

  • Ken Noguchi Everest Expedition 2000:

Ken Noguchi who reached the Summit of Everest from the South Side in 1999 will be back on Everest in 2000. However, this time Ken will be on the North East Ridge. Ken who was born in the United States, will does not plan on attempting the Summit EverestNews.com is told by his family. "He goes for the cleaning of Everest, around 6000M-8000M. He is planning to get about 2 tons of garbage from the mountain. The main sponsor will be SONY CORP. "

http://www.mainichi.co.jp/entertainments/sports/noguchi/index.html

In Japanese only.

  • Everest Spring 2000: Featured Expedition

http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp The French Canadians are having fun as the slowly work their way to Tibet....

These climbers are somewhat climbing in controversy. See the news reports they have linked to this report...

  • Recent News

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest 3/10/2000

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall 3/8/2000

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 insearch of the camera and Irvine. 3/3/2000

Climbers headed to Everest Base Camp 3/13/2000

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7 3/13/2000

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit 3/9/2000

Dutch Climbers prepare for Everest 2/24/3000

  • The Everest Spring 2000 Expedition list has been updated with those Expeditions EverestNews.com will be featuring and those that EverestNews.com expects to receive News from. This is NOT a complete list. We expect to add more expeditions in the next few days.

Daily News: 3/13/2000 Report

  • Everest Spring 2000:

Climbers leave for Everest Base Camp

Check out the update !

Note this file contains pictures and will take a little time to load depending on your connection.

  • Jochen Hemmleb Q&A

EverestNews.com readers asked Jochen Hemmleb Questions on Mallory & Irvine. As usual, some questions came really late.

Part: 7 (Those questions that came in really late !)

Q.) I am curious as to why there was no further attempt to find the "dead  English" body (possibly Irvine) after Mallory's body was discovered,  especially when the camera was not found with Mallory.  The Ghosts book indicates that they did not expect to fine either body so quickly, so they had planned to spend more time searching the area, but apparently did not after finding Mallory.  As much information that they obtained from Mallory and the artifacts they recovered, finding Irvine's body would have significantly increased their clues. Thanks. Gary

A.) [Jochen] We had originally intended to search for Irvine during the second search and summit attempt. However, our second search team got stuck in a snowstorm at Camp V for three days. After the storm, there was too much snow on the mountain's upper slopes to have a reasonable chance of finding anything. In the end, it was decided that Andy Politz and Thom Pollard should return to Mallory and finish the research there - and it was a testimony for how much conditions had deteriorated that it took them over an hour to rediscover him, even though Andy had been on the first search and knew the spot. Some members later felt that they should have stayed at Camp V after the first search and continued their efforts from there for one or two more days - but given the unexpected success and the physical and mental strain this discovery had brought with it, it was only too understandable that they descended to report their tale. They did a terrific job, more than anyone would have thought possible. And, of course, you are always smarter afterwards. 

Q.) Dear colleagues!  My name is Stefan Gatt and I am from Tirol. I appreciate your website very much and want to congratulate the whole research expedition and "Prof" Jochen for all the achieved tasks and results - I am admiring all this patchwork!!!  I read the book in German and some questions arose. Almost all of them were answered through other questions / answers. However there are still some questions left!

Is there no possibility to go around the second step? And is this proven?  On page number 112 - the picture of the Chinese camp VI - is it true that this is on 8.200m - or is it somewhere between the 1999 camp V - somewhere around 7.700 to 8.000m??? Or is just because it is a wide-angled picture? Dr. Stefan Gatt

A.) [Jochen] The Second Step has only been climbed by one route, the one used nowadays. The Chinese in 1960 attempted to climb the prow but abandoned their effort due to lack of protection. In 1933, Wager and Wyn Harris tried to climb an ill-defined gully cutting through the cliff to the W of today's route, but came to a standstill almost at once. The only option to bypass the Step altogether would have been Norton's Route along the Yellow Band - but if you believe Odell's account, M & I must have been on one of the rock steps and therefore have stuck to the ridge. 

The Chinese Camp VI was at c. 8220 m (+/- 20 m), according to photogrammetric investigation. This tallies well with the Chinese reports, who place the lower position of this Camp at 8200 m (it was later moved higher, after Wang's discovery). The impression that it was near the modern-day Camp V is caused by the Chinese Camp being roughly along the same line of sight, but closer to the Yellow Band. From the picture, it is possible to re-create to lines of sight (by aligning topographical features) - and the intersection of the lines give the approximate position of the camp. 

Q.) What are the chances that there is coming up a following Mallory and Irvine exp. in search for Irvine.

A.) [Jochen] There might be one or two attempts this spring, and hopefully in 2001.

Q.) When are you making a tour through Germany holding lectures about the Everest 99 Expedition .

I very much like to attend one. Any Dates for us ?? Kindly regards Peter P.Bosland

A.) [Jochen] Between 24 March and 9 April, mostly in SW Germany: 24.3.: Buchheim
28.3.: Deggingen
29.3.: Detmold
30.3.: Hamburg
31.3.: Stendal/Magdeburg
3.4.: Frankfurt
4.4.: Ravensburg
5.4.: Ettlingen
6.4.: Stuttgart-Vaihingen
8.4.: Pfullendorf

Q.) Hi Jochen, isn't all this talk of M&I not being able to free climb the  2nd Step ignoring the fact that Mallory was known to use the axe as direct aid on rock climbs? In other words, why should Anker's rating of 5.10 A0 mean they couldn't have climbed the second step if direct aid could have been used? The High Magazine article on his climbing abilities mentions that he climbed a crack climb by jamming an ice axe. - Pete

A.) [Jochen] What comes out of this debate is that climbing or not climbing the Second Step is not so much of a clear-cut matter as some would like to see it. If they used aid or assisted each other, however, Odell could not have seen them climbing the rocky portion of a great rock step with alacrity if this had been the Second Step - the movements he described are not in accordance with belaying, using aid etc. If you believe Odell, and at the same time believe Anker, M & I could only have been at the First Step. The topographical description in Odell's account, however, fits the First Step the least and the Third Step the best.

My current opinion is that I do believe that Mallory & Irvine COULD HAVE climbed the Second Step (not saying that they did), but if they did and were seen by Odell they had not been at the Second Step when he saw them. Jochen

The Book

Ghosts of Everest; The Search for Mallory & Irvine  by Jochen Hemmleb, Eric Simonson, Larry Johnson  

Hardcover - 208 pages (October 1999)  The Mountaineers Books;  Price reduced !

The papers:

Jochen Hemmleb's Research Papers

The Mountaineering Must Haves

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