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Mar 13-14th, 2000 Daily Reports
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For Latest
News. For earlier reports:
See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. Receiving Reports from Over 20 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.
Daily News: 3/14/2000 Report
- Everest Spring 2000: Jagged Globe, Featured Expedition
EverestNews.com will feature full
dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell.
Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including winter ascents of the
north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition
to an 8,000m peak and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest."
He has climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain
guide.
Steve and Jagged Globe are known as
one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the Best.
This year's expedition will be lead
by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest expeditions and
reached the Summit of K2), supported
by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged Globe for many years including
successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum
II. A highly regarded professional instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter
Courses, and provides their UK technical support for training and advice to all their
group expeditions licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are
using the same Sherpa team as last year.
This is another international team,
comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK),
Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul Giorgio (USA).
Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7
Summits and to to be the oldest summiter this season - he's 61 in March!
Simon Lowe, one of their
most experienced leaders having led successful expeditions to Everest. Simon is Jagged
Globe's Operations Director.
Check them out at :http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/
They
leave on March 23th to attempt the South East ridge of Everest.
- Andalucia
Everest 2000: Featured Expedition
Leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ
This experienced group of seven
climbers includes two women: Manuel Gonzαlez, Manuel Salazar, Shelter Ortega, Immaculate
Fernandez, Santiago Millαn, Fernando Fernandez-Villancos and Jose Antonio Perez. They
have trained the last year for Everest.
EXPEDITION ANDALUCIA EVEREST 2000
ALREADY IS IN NAMCHE BAZAAR
NAMCHE BAZAAR, 13 OF
MARCH 2000
Day 12 : The three
Andalusian mountaineers started three
Andalusian mountaineers started three
Andalusian mountaineers started the approach to Everest Base Camp after completing the previous
preparations. They have found bad weather and, at the
moment are in Nanche Bazaar (3,443 ms), one of the important villages in the sherpa region. Tomorrow a helicopter with
3,000 kg of food and equipment will arrive at Syamboche. They hope that in the morning conditions will be good
early and supplying will be completed without
difficulties.
Today's Picture from Everest (will pop-up).
In
order to arrive at Nanche Bazaar, the Andalusians flew in small plane into the
small airport of Lukla. From there, they made a short day hike into the
mountains. Then on to Namche surpassing one of the important passes during the approach to
the mountain. During the route, they crossed one of the legendary bridges of the
Himalayas, installed on Dhudh Kosi river. This river that takes the name of the first
climber of Everest (Bridge Hillary) Edmund Hillary, who arrived at the summit in May of
1953 next to the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.
The
climbers are finding the last days of winter pose the biggest problem while
transporting the loads by ground. Since, at this altitude of the region is
basically uninhabited, there is very little traffic of animals or people.
In addition, the Expedition Andalucia Everest 2000
was the first to arrive in Nepal and the region of Solu Khumbu. This fact has logistical advantages and
disadvantages. On one side, they will not find it difficult to contact porters and
animals to perform the transports. On
the other, they see a complicated task of confronting the solitary arrival @
basecamp, partiularly if too much snow has accumulated and covers the area.
Manuel
Salazar, Fernando Fernandez-Vivancos and Manuel Gonzalez, are in perfect physical
condition and confront this new load phase with optimism since they consider the
time sufficient, they will have enough to solve any problem that arises.
Source: Andalucia Everest 2000 http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
EverestNews.com will publish the
Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on the
http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
site.
Check them out Today !
- Everest Spring 2000: Featured
Expedition
EverestNews.com is featuring Byron
and his expedition as one of our "featured" expeditions this Spring.
Two days and counting. Here's
Byron's diary for Sunday:
March 12, 2000: I have finally
finished packing all my personal equipment, having arranged it in bags that will go
directly to Basecamp, and bags that will come with me on the trek in. Jamie and Zach are
getting close to being finished arranging all their clothes as well.
Over at the office, we continued
weighing, packing and arranging all the expedition supplies into barrels and gear bags. In
the early afternoon, we received from Vancouver our additional barrels to complete the
packing. By 9 pm our packing was pretty much completed, we now only have to wait till
tomorrow for some final items and we'll be all done and ready. In total we have 16- 100 l
plastic barrels, 32- gear bags (including two pieces for each team member), 6- large
Pelican cases, 4- pieces for the Broadcast gear, and an assortment of other smaller ones.
For the rest of the update check
his site at : www.cbc.ca/everest2000.
- Would You like to send someone an
Everest postcard ?
Thanks to Byron and CBC !
http://cbc.ca/everest2000/postcards/
- Ken Noguchi Everest Expedition 2000:
Ken Noguchi who reached the Summit
of Everest from the South Side in 1999 will be back on Everest in 2000. However, this time
Ken will be on the North East Ridge. Ken who was born in the United States, will does not
plan on attempting the Summit EverestNews.com is told by his family. "He goes for the
cleaning of Everest, around 6000M-8000M. He is planning to get about 2 tons of garbage
from the mountain. The main sponsor will be SONY CORP. "
http://www.mainichi.co.jp/entertainments/sports/noguchi/index.html
In Japanese only.
- Everest Spring 2000: Featured
Expedition
http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp
The French Canadians are having fun as the slowly work their way to Tibet....
These climbers are somewhat
climbing in controversy. See the news reports they have linked to this report...
Spanish
Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest 3/10/2000
Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall 3/8/2000
Graham
Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 insearch of the camera and Irvine.
3/3/2000
Climbers
headed to Everest Base Camp 3/13/2000
Jochen
Hemmleb Q&A Part 7 3/13/2000
India
climber plans to spend the night on the Summit 3/9/2000
Dutch
Climbers prepare for Everest 2/24/3000
- The Everest Spring 2000 Expedition list has
been updated with those Expeditions
EverestNews.com will be featuring and those that EverestNews.com expects to receive News
from. This is NOT a complete list. We
expect to add more expeditions in the next few days.
Daily News: 3/13/2000 Report
Climbers leave for Everest Base Camp
Check out the update !
Note this file contains pictures
and will take a little time to load depending on your connection.
EverestNews.com readers asked
Jochen Hemmleb Questions on Mallory & Irvine. As usual, some questions came really
late.
Part: 7 (Those questions that came
in really late !)
Q.) I am curious as to why there
was no further attempt to find the "dead English" body (possibly Irvine)
after Mallory's body was discovered, especially when the camera was not found with
Mallory. The Ghosts book indicates that they did not expect to fine either body so
quickly, so they had planned to spend more time searching the area, but apparently did not
after finding Mallory. As much information that they obtained from Mallory and the
artifacts they recovered, finding Irvine's body would have significantly increased their
clues. Thanks. Gary
A.) [Jochen] We had originally
intended to search for Irvine during the second search and summit attempt. However, our
second search team got stuck in a snowstorm at Camp V for three days. After the storm,
there was too much snow on the mountain's upper slopes to have a reasonable chance of
finding anything. In the end, it was decided that Andy Politz and Thom Pollard should
return to Mallory and finish the research there - and it was a testimony for how much
conditions had deteriorated that it took them over an hour to rediscover him, even though
Andy had been on the first search and knew the spot. Some members later felt that they
should have stayed at Camp V after the first search and continued their efforts from there
for one or two more days - but given the unexpected success and the physical and mental
strain this discovery had brought with it, it was only too understandable that they
descended to report their tale. They did a terrific job, more than anyone would have
thought possible. And, of course, you are always smarter afterwards.
Q.) Dear colleagues! My name
is Stefan Gatt and I am from Tirol. I appreciate your website very much and want to
congratulate the whole research expedition and "Prof" Jochen for all the
achieved tasks and results - I am admiring all this patchwork!!! I read the book in
German and some questions arose. Almost all of them were answered through other questions
/ answers. However there are still some questions left!
Is there no possibility to go
around the second step? And is this proven? On page number 112 - the picture of the
Chinese camp VI - is it true that this is on 8.200m - or is it somewhere between the 1999
camp V - somewhere around 7.700 to 8.000m??? Or is just because it is a wide-angled
picture? Dr. Stefan Gatt
A.) [Jochen] The Second Step has
only been climbed by one route, the one used nowadays. The Chinese in 1960 attempted to
climb the prow but abandoned their effort due to lack of protection. In 1933, Wager and
Wyn Harris tried to climb an ill-defined gully cutting through the cliff to the W of
today's route, but came to a standstill almost at once. The only option to bypass the Step
altogether would have been Norton's Route along the Yellow Band - but if you believe
Odell's account, M & I must have been on one of the rock steps and therefore have
stuck to the ridge.
The Chinese Camp VI was at c. 8220
m (+/- 20 m), according to photogrammetric investigation. This tallies well with the
Chinese reports, who place the lower position of this Camp at 8200 m (it was later moved
higher, after Wang's discovery). The impression that it was near the modern-day Camp V is
caused by the Chinese Camp being roughly along the same line of sight, but closer to the
Yellow Band. From the picture, it is possible to re-create to lines of sight (by aligning
topographical features) - and the intersection of the lines give the approximate position
of the camp.
Q.) What are the chances that there
is coming up a following Mallory and Irvine exp. in search for Irvine.
A.) [Jochen] There might be one or
two attempts this spring, and hopefully in 2001.
Q.) When are you making a tour
through Germany holding lectures about the Everest 99 Expedition .
I very much like to attend one. Any
Dates for us ?? Kindly regards Peter P.Bosland
A.) [Jochen] Between 24 March and 9
April, mostly in SW Germany: 24.3.: Buchheim
28.3.: Deggingen
29.3.: Detmold
30.3.: Hamburg
31.3.: Stendal/Magdeburg
3.4.: Frankfurt
4.4.: Ravensburg
5.4.: Ettlingen
6.4.: Stuttgart-Vaihingen
8.4.: Pfullendorf
Q.) Hi Jochen, isn't all this talk
of M&I not being able to free climb the 2nd Step ignoring the fact that Mallory
was known to use the axe as direct aid on rock climbs? In other words, why should Anker's
rating of 5.10 A0 mean they couldn't have climbed the second step if direct aid could have
been used? The High Magazine article on his climbing abilities mentions that he climbed a
crack climb by jamming an ice axe. - Pete
A.) [Jochen] What comes out of this
debate is that climbing or not climbing the Second Step is not so much of a clear-cut
matter as some would like to see it. If they used aid or assisted each other, however,
Odell could not have seen them climbing the rocky portion of a great rock step with
alacrity if this had been the Second Step - the movements he described are not in
accordance with belaying, using aid etc. If you believe Odell, and at the same time
believe Anker, M & I could only have been at the First Step. The topographical
description in Odell's account, however, fits the First Step the least and the Third Step
the best.
My current opinion is that I do
believe that Mallory & Irvine COULD HAVE climbed the Second Step (not saying that they
did), but if they did and were seen by Odell they had not been at the Second Step when he
saw them. Jochen
The Book
Ghosts of Everest; The Search for Mallory
& Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Eric Simonson, Larry Johnson
Hardcover - 208 pages
(October 1999) The Mountaineers Books; Price reduced !
The papers:
Jochen
Hemmleb's Research Papers
The
Mountaineering
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