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 Daily News: 5/10/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: 

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000: Annapurna 2000:  

How soon we forget.

  • In Spring of 1995 only one climber (a Sherpa) reached the Summit of Everest from the South.

With 1172 Summits of Everest by 873 climbers by EverestNews.com numbers, do people feel Everest is easy ?

Let look at the numbers:

Of the 1172 Summits, 392 has been by climbers from Nepal and 43 (37 from Tibet) from China, include a few Sherpas that live in India and about 40% of the Summits have been by the "people living near Everest". In fact 639 to the Summits are from climbers from Asia.

In recent years, have people forgotten 1991, where 38 climbers reached the Summit with 2 deaths or 1989 where 24 Summited with 8 dead ? Or 1987 where only 2 climbers summitted Everest the whole Year, and 4 died ? Or 1986 where 4 Summited and 4 died trying ? In 1986 two of the Summiters were the great Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, who did the North Face/Hornbein Couloir, "Not your usually Summits." 

Have we forgotten ? Everest has a way of reminding people.

  • Let's talk "first up", in recent years.

In 1993 two climbers died descending on the first day of Summits from the South.

1994 Shih Fang-Fang, first up on the North, died descending.

1995 Only one Summit from the South in the Spring.

1995 North the strong team lead by our friend, Kiyoshi Furuno, lead the way up the North East Ridge without problems with an experienced strong expedition.

1996 5 dead on the first day from the South.

All three dead on the first day from the North.

1997 Apa Sherpa & company lead the way on April 26th fixing much of the route on the South. No deaths. The route was in place for others.

On the North four strong Russian climbers summitted Day 1, two climbers died descending on the Second Summit day.

1998, Teams fail... Apa Sherpa & company, again fixes the route and leads the way. Many climbers tell EverestNews.com, if Apa does not fix the route NO ONE Summits. Apa himself tell EverestNews.com this later. With time, we are sure people will disagree with him. How soon we forget...

On the North in 98, the first Summits came on May 18th, with several strong Sherpa climbers from Asian Trekking fixing more rope than probably ever before. Their customer was the first up. The "yellow brick road" was in place on the North, with more Summits in 98 on the North than ever before.

In 99 on the North, of course a climber died on the first day on Summits (One of the three Ukrainians climbers).

On the South, only one climber died the whole season, as less snow was on Everest than ever before.

How soon we forget how dangerous Everest is, especially for those you go first. We did not talk about those who tried first and did not Summit. The deaths above are only the ones who Summited and died descending.

This is a dangerous Sport, don't let anyone tell you any different.

  • Everest Spring 2000 South Side:

Climbers seem to feel the window is opening again, with many moving up on the South.

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain guide.

Steve and Jagged Globe are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the Best.

Dispatch: Summit attempt

A strong team of 4 lead by Andrew Lock, and supported by four experienced climbing Sherpas, is today in camp two on route to the South Col and a summit push planned for the 13 May. The Met Office day report for the Everest region, forecasts low summit winds during this period. 

The team will be using supplementary oxygen above camp three both to climb and sleep. Many variables can still affect the teams progress, so here at Base Camp we wish them the best of luck and we will endeavour to keep folks at home posted on their progress. 

Tim Bird, Deputy Expedition Leader 

  • On the North: Things are not good

Reliable sources report to EverestNews.com that

Reports vary, but from what we are able to make out, Hans climbed during the night the North ridge until reaching the Yellow Band at 8450 m. Unfortunately, Fierce winds and cold drove him back down again. He descended to C 3 at 7900 m. His fatiguing descent took him the same time as reaching C 4 from C3 yesterday. He will try to reach ABC later, but this seems questionable at this time as heavy snows have built up especially on the steep slopes down from North Col, therefore posing high avalanche danger.

With much fresh snow, this was too much for a climber as great has Hans. 

Hans is alone after spending two night up very high. 

Expect more on Hans on www.mounteverest.nl (in Dutch) later.

We hear other are moving up...

Here are some products they think you might like: 

Charlet Moser Ice Axe 

CM Crampons

Metolius Harness

Arc'Teryx Jacket

Wild Country Carabiner

Smartwool Summit Sock

  • New Books ! 

Lust for more Mallory & Irvine info? Get the Book: "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine," by Tom Holzel & Audrey Salkeld, Pimlico/Random House (UK), The Mountaineers (USA) Available Now

Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest by Beck Weathers, Stephen G. Michaud (Contributor) List Price: $24.95 Our Price: $17.47 You Save: $7.48 (30%) Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours.

For all the May 2000 News

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

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