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Makalu 2000:
Dhaulagiri
2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho
Oyu 2000:
Manaslu
2000: Kangchenjunga
2000: Annapurna 2000:
How soon we forget.
- In Spring of 1995
only one climber (a Sherpa) reached the Summit of Everest from the South.
With 1172 Summits of
Everest by 873 climbers by EverestNews.com
numbers, do people feel
Everest is easy ?
Let look at the
numbers:
Of the 1172 Summits,
392 has been by climbers from Nepal and 43 (37 from Tibet) from China, include a
few Sherpas that live in India and about 40% of the Summits have been by the
"people living near Everest". In fact 639 to the Summits are from
climbers from Asia.
In recent years, have
people forgotten 1991, where 38 climbers reached the Summit with 2 deaths or
1989 where 24 Summited with 8 dead ? Or 1987 where only 2 climbers summitted
Everest the whole Year, and 4 died ? Or 1986 where 4 Summited and 4 died trying
? In 1986 two of the Summiters were the great Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet,
who did the North Face/Hornbein Couloir, "Not your usually
Summits."
Have we forgotten ?
Everest has a way of reminding people.
- Let's talk
"first up", in recent years.
In 1993 two climbers
died descending on the first day of Summits from the South.
1994 Shih Fang-Fang,
first up on the North, died descending.
1995 Only one Summit
from the South in the Spring.
1995 North the strong
team lead by our friend, Kiyoshi Furuno, lead the way up the North East Ridge
without problems with an experienced strong expedition.
1996 5 dead on the first
day from the South.
All three dead on the
first day from the North.
1997 Apa Sherpa &
company lead the way on April
26th fixing much of the route
on the South. No deaths. The route was in place for others.
On the North four
strong Russian climbers summitted Day 1, two climbers died descending on the
Second Summit day.
1998, Teams fail... Apa
Sherpa & company, again fixes the route and leads the way. Many climbers
tell EverestNews.com, if Apa does not fix the route NO ONE Summits. Apa himself
tell EverestNews.com this later. With time, we are sure people will disagree
with him. How soon we forget...
On the North in 98,
the first Summits came on May 18th, with several strong Sherpa climbers from
Asian Trekking fixing more
rope than probably ever before.
Their customer was the first up. The "yellow
brick road" was in place
on the North, with more Summits in 98 on the North than ever before.
In 99 on the North, of
course a climber died on the first day on Summits (One of the three Ukrainians
climbers).
On the South, only one
climber died the whole season, as less snow was on Everest than ever before.
How soon we forget how
dangerous Everest is, especially for those you go first. We did not talk about
those who tried first and did not Summit.
The deaths above are only the
ones who Summited and died descending.
This is a dangerous
Sport, don't let anyone tell
you any different.
- Everest Spring 2000
South Side:
Climbers seem to feel
the window is opening again, with many moving up on the South.
EverestNews.com will
feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was
founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering
experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and
Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak
and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has
climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain
guide.
Steve and Jagged Globe
are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world. Some think the
Best.
Dispatch: Summit
attempt
A strong team of 4
lead by Andrew Lock, and supported by four experienced climbing Sherpas, is
today in camp two on route to
the South Col and a summit
push planned for the 13 May.
The Met Office day report for the Everest region, forecasts
low summit winds during this period.
The team will be using
supplementary oxygen above camp three both to climb and sleep. Many variables
can still affect the teams progress, so here at Base Camp we wish them the best
of luck and we will endeavour
to keep folks at home posted on their progress.
Tim Bird, Deputy
Expedition Leader
- On the North: Things
are not good
Reliable sources
report to EverestNews.com that
Reports vary, but from
what we are able to make out, Hans
climbed during the night the North ridge until reaching the Yellow Band at 8450
m. Unfortunately, Fierce winds and cold drove him back down again. He descended
to C 3 at 7900 m. His fatiguing descent took him the same time as reaching C 4
from C3 yesterday. He will try to reach ABC later, but this
seems questionable at this time as
heavy snows have built up especially on the
steep slopes down from North Col, therefore posing high
avalanche danger.
With much fresh snow,
this was too much for a climber as great has Hans.
Hans is alone after
spending two night up very high.
Expect more on Hans on
www.mounteverest.nl (in Dutch) later.
We hear other are
moving up...
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Wild
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