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For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: Updated

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000: Annapurna 2000:  

NEWSFLASH 2:03PM EST US

Climbers going for the Summit on the South !

  • Reliable sources are reporting to EverestNews.com that 6-7 climbers from Henry Todd's Expedition left for the Summit of Everest last night from the South Side about 10pm Nepal time. 
  • With the jet stream moved out of the Everest region and therefore calmer winds at the summit, many expeditions are moving their Summit day up, the cleanup Expedition is Now planned for Tuesday.
  • Some climbers were at Camp 4 last night !
  • Did they go for it ? We have not confirmed for sure, but reliable sources said they did. With a record (by far) number of reporters at BC, you would think they would know. But they missed Hugo Rodriguez
  • Stay tuned. The sat phones will be ringing in a couple of minutes !
  • Going to their server a few minutes ago !

After a week of heavy snow and high winds, the weather seems to be improving at the top of Everest and the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000 team is heading back up the mountain, hoping to make a summit attempt on Monday, May 15. The latest reports say the jet stream has shifted north of the mountain, leaving a relatively calm wind of 20 knots near the top. Ben Webster and Claude Berube have been at Camp 2 since Tuesday waiting for better weather so that they can continue to Camp III.  Both are feeling healthy, but a little bored, team members report from base camp. 

On Thursday, other team members and a group of Sherpas left base camp to join them at Camp 2 to prepare for the summit try.  The whole group will make the push together, as they're more likely to be successful with many climbers working together to make the trail up the mountain. They are now aiming for a summit day of May 15. The plan has them sleeping at Camp 2 on Friday, May 12, sleeping at Camp 3 on Saturday, May 13, sleeping for only a few hours at Camp 4 on Sunday, May 14 before leaving early in the morning and  pushing for the summit on May 15. 

Check http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html for their full reports. 

Daily News: 5/11/2000 Report

  • Most of the "expeditions", certainly not the "whole mountain." We will try for the South Side today and the North Side Summary later.
  • First, what is an " Everest expedition". Frankly an Everest Expedition is what a climber defines it to be. Traditionally if you call yourself an expedition on Everest, you are an Expedition. Some " Expeditions" share permits, Sherpas, food, ropes, etc.

But then again, large "well organized expeditions" on Everest also share ropes, sometimes tents (and food), Sherpa support, etc. To define all the "expeditions" on Everest might be as hard as climbing the mountain some years.

Some are critical of a climber calling himself or herself an "expedition" when they depend on others. Then again, only one man has climbed Everest solo...

  • Second the headlines: 

Spanish Expeditions to head for the Summit on the 13th and 14th. Expect Summits this time if the weather holds.

Byron Smith is reporting: "The jet stream has now moved out of the Everest region, resulting in calmer winds at the summit. The wind speeds have gone down to 20 knots on top, but the weather isn't quite clear yet because of cloud disturbances and snow. " 

Russian Expedition: Risk www.risk.ru : Today, this morning, I had a call from Baikovsky in base camp. He told me about this avalanche in camp 3. Just 1 tent was buried, where  Vinogradsky, Pershin, Foigt and Sokolov slept. Together with others, they were shoveled out. Nobody was injured, everything is OK. All of them came down to base camp yesterday. Today the whole expedition is going down to the green zone for the rest. They will come back in 6 days. They hope that weather will be stable at least in the second part of May. 

We will translate it later, but they told it all informatively. Cheers, Arkadi www.risk.ru 

For more on Hans' attempt on the North Side see: www.mounteverest.nl

For much more see below: 

  • Most of the Expeditions: South Side

1.) Jagged Globe, Featured Expedition http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

This is another international team, comprising:  Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul Giorgio (USA). Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to be the oldest summiter this season - he's 61 in March!

Curt has left the expedition. A strong team of 4 lead by Andrew Lock, and supported by four experienced climbing Sherpas, was in camp two yesterday with the to be on route to the South Col and a summit push planned for the 13 May. The team will be using supplementary oxygen above camp three both to climb and sleep.

For all their Updates check Jagged Globe Everest 2000 and for updates on their Cho Oyu expedition lead by Robert Anderson check Cho Oyu 2000. 

2.) Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com http://www.adventure.co.nz 

David Hiddleston David Hiddleston David Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a summit attempt.  David Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a summit attempt.  David Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a summit attempt. 

Adventure Consultants states, " In addition to this Adventure Consultants is about to launch what we believe to be the most exciting project on Everest this season! Details will be available over the next few days so keep a close eye on this website."

EverestNews.com will bring you all the details, we will not speculate here... We suggest you read their last couple of dispatches. 

3.) A private American expedition: www.everestcleanup.com   2000 Everest Environmental. A team of eight climbers and over 20 Sherpas will climb to Camp 4 on Everest this spring to attempt to bring down hundreds of discarded oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other climbers in the past. The climbers will also attempt to summit Everest. Members include Robert Chang, Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition to Everest), Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The lead Sherpa is Apa Sherpa.

Status: These guys has been hanging back and been having the normal heath problems. Hard to tell what they are planning. Rob latest update (you will need to page down on the page) we thought was a great insight into climbing Everest for the first time. Apa Sherpa is with them this year. 

4.) Canadian climber Byron Smith and his all Canadian Expedition: www.cbc.ca/everest2000

This climber who was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba plans his second attempt on Everest beginning in March 2000. Byron grew up in Calgary and now lives in Vulcan, Alberta with his son Zachary and wife Jamie. Byron Smith owns and runs a car dealership in Vulcan and trains up to two and a half hours a day, six days a week to keep in climbing shape. 

His Expedition Everest 2000 has contracted Science Alberta Foundation to develop a multidisciplinary education program for Canadian students. Students from Kindergarten to Grade 12 will participate in a virtual field trip to the "Top of the World." Teachers will appreciate the easy access to relevant, prepackaged lesson plans and activities. Students will enjoy the innovative, hands-on format of the Everest 2000 activities. Each group of lessons will include geography, science, mathematics, language arts, and physical education activities. This education program appears to be one of the best ever offered.

This year Byron will lead the expedition supported by Everest Veteran Tim Rippel, from Nelson British Columbia as his cameraman and fellow climber. The Expedition will film Byron on his attempt in what is hoped will be one of the better films to be made on the South Side of Everest. Byron will have 12 Sherpa climbers from Asian Trekking on his expedition supporting the many activities. This expedition promises to be one of the main featured expeditions in 2000 with many educational opportunities.

Status: Byron has played Everest smart to date, being careful. Look for another summit attempt in a few days, maybe after the "masses attempt". Byron, to our knowledge, has never wanted to be first up in 2000. However, with his strong Sherpa team, others will surely want to be with him or follow their trail !

News: The jet stream has now moved out of the Everest region, resulting in calmer winds at the summit. The wind speeds have gone down to 20 knots on top, but the weather isn't quite clear yet because of cloud disturbances and snow. 

Byron Smith and Tim Rippel are watching forecasts and waiting for more consistent weather on high before venturing back up to Camp II. Meanwhile, everyone is finding things to do to pass the time at Base camp. 

Check www.cbc.ca/everest2000 for video, the doctor's dispatches and much more information. 

5.) Asian-Trekking supporting the Nepalese Women Millennium Everest Expedition 2000. The group consists of four women climbers, Lakpa Sherpa, Mingma Yangzi Sherpa, Dawa Yangzi Sherpa and Dolma Sherpa. Only one Nepalese woman has reached the Summit of Everest. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa died descending after reaching the Summit on 4/22/93. The Expedition was organized with Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa as the expedition leader supported by a strong male Sherpa team of male climbers including the great Sonam Tshering Sherpa who gave his life trying to save Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa from death. Lakpa Sherpa is the Expedition leader of the "Nepalese Women Millennium Everest Expedition 2000" and brother of Chhiring Sherpa, who has reached the Summit of Everest 4 times. Four climbers from Asian trekking will support this attempt. Two of which (at least), EverestNews.com is told will be climbers who have previously reached the Summit of Everest.

Status: Rumors are over all the place. Wait and see, if the weather breaks, expect some of them to go. Sherpas follow the mountain not the forecasts. 

6.) A young American climber Saeed Toossi who was born in Iran:  www.everestdream.com. Saeed has his own independent Expedition to Everest in Spring 2000. EverestNews.com, frankly knew little to nothing about this climber. Therefore, we asked others and himself. Here is what he told us: "I was born in Tehran/Iran in 1959. I started my climbing activities when I was 14 years old in the North of Tehran. Started college in Iran in 1979. Government closed down universities in 1982. Left Iran in 1983 to come to the US to continue my education. Completed my BS in Computer Science at West Chester University in 1988. Started to work in the field and completed my MS in Software Engineering at Penn State University in 1991. Got back in to climbing again in 1993. My full climbing background is on my site under Experience summary page. " I started my climbing activities when I was 14 years old in the North of Tehran. Started college in Iran in 1979. Government closed down universities in 1982. Left Iran in 1983 to come to the US to continue my education. Completed my BS in Computer Science at West Chester University in 1988. Started to work in the field and completed my MS in Software Engineering at Penn State University in 1991. Got back in to climbing again in 1993. My full climbing background is on my site under Experience summary page. " I do live in the Washington D.C. Northern Virginia area and work as a Network Engineer.

Status: Saeed latest Updates are up on his site. Frankly, we love his dispatches from the insight on a first time climber on Everest. Real stories, not hype. Check him out:  www.everestdream.com

7.) An experienced Danish Expedition: Thrane & Thrane sponsorship of the first all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. The satellite communication company, Thrane & Thrane, is sponsoring the first all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. All eight members of the BigE-expedition are among the most experienced Danish climbers with significant mountaineering experience. Leader of the expedition and team doctor is Henrik Jessen Hansen. 

The BigE-expedition and its progress can be followed at Thrane & Thrane’s website:  http://www.tt.dk/everest/intro.html

Updates from men who have been on Everest before (including 96): 

May 10 - Reflection and recharging.
May 09 - Things are moving again.
May 08 - A day of rest and planning.
May 07 - Snow at Base Camp.
May 06 - The weather decides.

This expedition is planning a South Pillar Route see: http://www.tt.dk/everest/hq_rute.html

8.) A Spanish Everest Expedition: Everest 2000 www.lacenet.org You will need to Join (in upper left hand corner). A South Side Expedition with many experienced climbers including expeditions to Manaslu (1991), Makalu (1976), Everest (1983 and 1985), Lothse (1980), Annapurna IV (1979), Disthgil Sar (1982), Saipal (1985), Makalu (1988 and 1990), K2 (1995). 

Update: News !!! They are planning for a Summit attempt on the 13th !!!

9.) Andalucia Everest 2000: 

Update: News !!! The Andalucias are planning on the 14th ! 4 climbers plus a cameraman to attempt. Their Doctor, as reported earlier on EverestNews.com, was seriously hurt, but will live. The Andalucias wanted to be "first up" in 2000. They had worked very hard up high, but had to come down when their doctor was hurt. 

EverestNews.com will publish their reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm

10.) Asian-Trekking: Anna Czerwinska (Poland), and Bill Zachary climbing independently.

Little is know about Bill. He did not want to be in the News... 

Anna is a very strong climber. Look for her to team up with one of the group and go...

Anna, Bill, Saeed, Jeff (below) and the other climbers climbing "independently", has from time to time, teamed up his year. 

11.) Jeffrey Warden

A lone climber from Canadian attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden, and he is from Winnipeg Canada. Below is a picture of him:  www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com Jeff is an interesting experienced climber, but his first time on Everest. 

Jeff, in his last dispatch on EverestNews.com, kindly provided by his family, stated a May 12th Summit day as the goal. 

12.) Hugo http://www.everest2000.net  returns to Everest ! 

Hugo Rodriguez almost stole the show ! If the weather holds he summits first. However, the weather did not hold and Hugo and company smartly called it a day and came down. Hugo has been very strong this year on Everest. He has reached the Summit of Everest twice before, 1997 and 1999. His sirdar , Babu Chiri Sherpa, planed a speed climb of Everest . His Sherpa climbers are very strong: Babu Chiri Sherpa: 9 Summits of Everest, Dawa Sherpa: 4 times the summit of the Everest, Nima Sherpa: 3 times to the summit of the Everest, Lhakpa Sherpa: One summit of the Everest. 

"Certainly there are other very outstanding Sherpas as Dorjee Sherpa that has achieved 7 ascents to the Everest or Lhakpa Sherpa that has 5 ascents, which collaborate with other expeditions. But the team of Sherpas of "Mexico on Top of the World" constitutes a unique force...." 

Hugo, who has rested after the Summit attempt (including descending below BC),  we think he is about ready to go up again, if the weather breaks they will be strong. 

13.) Never did like 13, can't have a 13th expedition....

14.) Gabriel Filippi (http://www.everesty2k.com/) with Babu Chiri Sherpa. An air-traffic manager based in Iqaluit, 39, would be the third Quebecer to ascend the world's highest peak. The highest peak Filippi has attained in a quarter-century of climbing has been Argentina's Mount Aconcagua, an altitude of 6,962 meters. He has not attempted any 8000 meter peak before.

Gabriel is on the same permit as the Mexican climbers (see Hugo above), but climbing separately as we understand it. The first Quebecer to reach the top of Everest was Yves Laforest, in 1991. Last year, Bernard Voyer became the second Quebecer to do so.

Status: Filippi had a tough Everest with many heath problems. He has worked very hard, but this is not going to be his year for the top.

15.) Canadian Everest Expedition 2000: The four-member team, the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000, say they are not peak happy.  Team leader Ben Webster, 36, said he wanted a team that would focus on the process during the lengthy Everest climb, and not just on the summit awaiting them. The team does not have much H.A. experience. His team members include Benoit Robitaille, Francois Bιdard and Claude Bιrubι. Their every detail (almost) has been carried on http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html with full reports. 

Status: Changing daily is seems, but appears that 3 will go for the summit. Look for them to follow others in a group. These 4 climbers are on the same permit as Mountain Madness but are climbing the mountain separately.

16.) Mountain Madness : Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader and Peter Habeler

Christine is the Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

Peter and Christine have worked very hard this Everest. Frankly, Christine, with heath problems, has been a leader of the pack, if the weather would have held she would have been on top. She made the right decision (always easier to say that AFTER the events are over) not going for it. Look for her and Peter (which is fine) to go up again, maybe very soon. 

Check their page on EverestNews.com for all their dispatches.

17.) Nazir Sabir - The Owner and Director of Nazir Sabir Expeditions. 8000 meter peaks: K2 Summit with E. Otani (1981), G-II with Reinhold Messner (1982), Broad Peak with Reinhold Messner (1982), G-I (Hidden Peak),  Expedition Leader for Pakistan's Golden Jubilee Everest Expedition (1997). 

Nazir is on the same permit as MountainMadness, however is climbing the mountain independently from Peter and Christine.

Nazir, has been to Everest before, with bad luck. Look for him to make one more attempt this year. 

18.) The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry. Check their page on EverestNews.com.

This has been a fun group. EverestNews.com has enjoyed following them.  We think they are getting ready !

19.) Koreans: The Koreans has been up high a bunch. EverestNews.com knows little about this expedition. 

20.) Russians: See the headline above and Risk www.risk.ru for more on them. 

21.) American Commercial Expedition:

Lead by Robert Link and Greg Wilson, this high profile expedition appears to be going slow with their paying clients. 

22.) Another Commercial American Expedition 

Frankly, we don't know much about this group, except that the client is a rich fellow from Texas trying for the third time at the Summit. This time at around age 69 ? 

23.) Which bring us the opposite: A 14 year old Nepal boy. Look for them to follow and climb with the other Sherpa climbers. 

24.) Then there are the Spanish South Pillar Expedition, Carlos Soria, the India climbers, and others...  (OK we need a rest ...)

25.) Let end with Henry !

Henry Todd back again ! Can't keep Henry down. The Ministry of Nepal "officially" took Henry's control of the ice fall away from him. However, Henry is still on Everest playing his role. He has also has a Lhotse Expedition, which some we believe, are confusing as an Everest Expedition. One of his climbers works for  Discovery, which are carrying his reports. Finn is climbing Everest "independently" (there is that word again, sharing BC facilities, and climbing with a Sherpa (you need to read that story on their site) provided by Henry. 

EverestNews.com had many discussions with Finn & Discovery. They were nice to give EverestNews.com a credit on the site.

Finn, has been to BC, but has little (if any) H.A. experience. He is living his dream. 

Don't expect much News on Henry's climber, as it is not his style. Some of Henry's climbers are very high right now. 

  • Other points; 13 men will attempt to break Lev Sarkisov's record as the oldest climber to reach the Summit. The climbers: 6 from Japan, 3 from the US, 2 from Russia, and one each from Spain and France. 

    Lev is a special climber and person.

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