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Oyu 2000: Updated
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2000: Kangchenjunga
2000: Annapurna 2000:
NEWSFLASH 2:03PM EST
US
Climbers going for the
Summit on the South !
- Reliable sources
are reporting to EverestNews.com that 6-7
climbers from Henry Todd's Expedition left for the Summit of Everest last
night from the South Side about 10pm Nepal time.
- With the jet stream
moved out of the Everest region and therefore calmer winds at the summit,
many expeditions are moving their Summit day up, the cleanup Expedition is
Now planned for Tuesday.
- Some climbers were
at Camp 4 last night !
- Did they go for it
? We
have not confirmed for sure, but reliable sources said they did. With
a record (by far) number of reporters at BC, you would think they would know.
But they missed Hugo Rodriguez
- Stay tuned. The sat
phones will be ringing in a couple of minutes !
- Going to their
server a few minutes ago !
After a week of
heavy snow and high winds, the weather seems to be improving at the top of
Everest and the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000 team is heading back up the
mountain, hoping to make a summit attempt on Monday, May 15. The latest
reports say the jet stream has shifted north of the mountain, leaving a
relatively calm wind of 20 knots near the top. Ben Webster and Claude Berube
have been at Camp 2 since Tuesday waiting for better weather so that they can
continue to Camp III. Both are feeling healthy, but a little
bored, team members report from base camp.
On Thursday, other team
members and a group of Sherpas left base camp to join them at Camp 2 to
prepare for the summit try. The whole group will make the push together,
as they're more likely to be successful with many climbers working together to
make the trail up the mountain. They are now aiming for a summit day of May
15. The plan has them sleeping at Camp 2 on Friday, May 12, sleeping at Camp 3
on Saturday, May 13, sleeping for only a few hours at Camp 4 on Sunday, May 14
before leaving early in the morning and pushing for the summit on May
15.
Check http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html
for their full reports.
Daily News: 5/11/2000 Report
- Most of the
"expeditions", certainly
not the "whole mountain."
We will try for the South
Side today and the North
Side Summary later.
- First, what is an
" Everest expedition". Frankly an Everest Expedition is what a
climber defines it to be. Traditionally if you call yourself an expedition
on Everest, you are an Expedition. Some
" Expeditions" share permits, Sherpas,
food, ropes, etc.
But then again, large
"well organized expeditions" on Everest also share ropes, sometimes
tents (and food), Sherpa support, etc. To define all the "expeditions"
on Everest might be as hard as climbing the mountain some years.
Some are critical of a
climber calling himself or herself an "expedition" when they depend on
others. Then again, only one
man has climbed Everest solo...
Spanish Expeditions to
head for the Summit on the 13th and 14th. Expect Summits this time if the
weather holds.
Byron Smith is
reporting: "The jet stream has now moved out of the Everest region,
resulting in calmer winds at the summit. The wind speeds have gone down to 20
knots on top, but the weather isn't quite clear yet because of cloud
disturbances and snow. "
Russian Expedition:
Risk www.risk.ru : Today, this morning, I had a
call from Baikovsky in base camp. He told me about this avalanche in camp 3. Just
1 tent was buried, where
Vinogradsky, Pershin, Foigt and Sokolov slept. Together with others, they were
shoveled out. Nobody was
injured, everything is OK. All
of them came down to base camp yesterday. Today the whole expedition is going
down to the green zone for the rest. They will come back in 6 days. They hope
that weather will be stable at least in the second part of May.
We will translate it
later, but they told it all informatively. Cheers, Arkadi www.risk.ru
For more on Hans'
attempt on the North Side see: www.mounteverest.nl.
For much more see
below:
- Most of the
Expeditions: South Side
1.) Jagged
Globe, Featured Expedition http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/
This is another
international team, comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff
Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul
Giorgio (USA). Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to be the oldest
summiter this season - he's 61 in March!
Curt has left the
expedition. A strong team of 4
lead by Andrew Lock, and supported by four experienced climbing Sherpas, was in camp two
yesterday with the to be on route to
the South Col and a summit
push planned for the 13 May. The team will be using
supplementary oxygen above camp three both to climb and sleep.
For all their Updates check Jagged
Globe Everest 2000 and for updates on their Cho Oyu expedition lead by
Robert Anderson check Cho Oyu 2000.
2.) Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com
http://www.adventure.co.nz
David
Hiddleston David
Hiddleston
David
Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a
summit attempt. David
Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a
summit attempt. David
Hiddleston has established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a
summit attempt.
Adventure
Consultants
states, " In
addition to this Adventure Consultants is about to launch what we believe to be
the most exciting project on Everest this season! Details will be available over
the next few days so keep a close eye on this website."
EverestNews.com
will bring you all the details, we will not speculate
here... We
suggest you read their last couple of dispatches.
3.)
A private American expedition: www.everestcleanup.com
2000 Everest Environmental. A team of eight climbers and over
20 Sherpas will climb to Camp 4 on Everest this spring to attempt
to bring down hundreds of discarded oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other
climbers in the past. The climbers will also attempt to
summit Everest. Members include Robert Chang,
Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition to Everest),
Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The lead Sherpa is Apa Sherpa.
Status: These
guys has been hanging back and been having the normal heath problems. Hard to
tell what they are planning. Rob latest update (you
will need to page down on the page) we thought was a great insight into climbing
Everest for the first time. Apa Sherpa is with them this year.
4.) Canadian climber Byron Smith
and his all Canadian Expedition: www.cbc.ca/everest2000
This climber who was born in
Winnipeg, Manitoba plans his second attempt on Everest beginning in March 2000. Byron grew
up in Calgary and now lives in Vulcan, Alberta with his son Zachary and wife Jamie. Byron
Smith owns and runs a car dealership in Vulcan and trains up to two and a half hours a
day, six days a week to keep in climbing shape.
His Expedition Everest 2000 has
contracted Science Alberta Foundation to
develop a multidisciplinary education program for Canadian students. Students from
Kindergarten to Grade 12 will participate in a virtual field trip to the "Top of the
World." Teachers will appreciate the easy access to relevant, prepackaged lesson
plans and activities. Students will enjoy the innovative, hands-on format of the Everest
2000 activities. Each group of lessons will include geography, science, mathematics,
language arts, and physical education activities. This education program appears to be one
of the best ever offered.
This year Byron will lead the
expedition supported by Everest Veteran Tim Rippel, from Nelson British Columbia as his
cameraman and fellow climber. The Expedition will film Byron on his attempt in what is
hoped will be one of the better films to be made on the South Side of Everest. Byron will
have 12 Sherpa climbers from Asian Trekking on his expedition supporting the many
activities. This expedition promises to be one of the main featured expeditions in 2000
with many educational opportunities.
Status:
Byron has played Everest smart to date, being careful. Look for another summit
attempt in a few days, maybe
after the "masses
attempt". Byron, to our knowledge, has never wanted to be first up in 2000.
However, with his strong Sherpa team, others will surely want to be with him or
follow their trail !
News: The jet stream has
now moved out of the Everest region, resulting in calmer winds at the summit.
The wind speeds have gone down to 20 knots on top, but the weather isn't quite
clear yet because of cloud disturbances and snow.
Byron Smith and Tim
Rippel are watching forecasts and waiting for more consistent weather on high
before venturing back up to Camp II. Meanwhile, everyone is finding things to do
to pass the time at Base camp.
Check
www.cbc.ca/everest2000 for video,
the doctor's dispatches and much more information.
5.) Asian-Trekking supporting the
Nepalese Women Millennium Everest Expedition 2000. The group consists of four women
climbers, Lakpa Sherpa, Mingma Yangzi Sherpa, Dawa Yangzi Sherpa and Dolma Sherpa. Only
one Nepalese woman has reached the Summit of Everest. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa died descending
after reaching the Summit on 4/22/93. The Expedition was organized with Mrs. Pasang Lhamu
Sherpa as the expedition leader supported by a strong male Sherpa team of male climbers
including the great Sonam Tshering Sherpa who gave his life trying to save Mrs. Pasang
Lhamu Sherpa from death. Lakpa Sherpa is the Expedition
leader of the "Nepalese Women Millennium Everest Expedition 2000" and brother of
Chhiring Sherpa, who has reached the Summit of Everest 4 times. Four climbers from Asian
trekking will support this attempt. Two of which (at least), EverestNews.com is told will
be climbers who have previously reached the Summit of Everest.
Status:
Rumors are over all the place. Wait and see, if
the weather breaks, expect some of them to go. Sherpas follow the mountain
not the forecasts.
6.) A young American climber Saeed
Toossi
who was born in Iran: www.everestdream.com.
Saeed has his own independent
Expedition to Everest in Spring 2000. EverestNews.com, frankly knew little to nothing
about this climber. Therefore, we asked others and himself. Here is what he told us:
"I was born in Tehran/Iran
in 1959. I started my climbing activities when I was 14 years old in the North of
Tehran. Started college in Iran in 1979. Government closed down universities in
1982. Left Iran in 1983 to come to the US to continue my education. Completed
my BS in Computer Science at West Chester University in 1988. Started to work in
the field and completed my MS in Software Engineering at Penn State University in 1991.
Got back in to climbing again in 1993. My full climbing background is on my site
under Experience summary page. " I started my climbing activities when I was 14 years old in the North of
Tehran. Started college in Iran in 1979. Government closed down universities in
1982. Left Iran in 1983 to come to the US to continue my education. Completed
my BS in Computer Science at West Chester University in 1988. Started to work in
the field and completed my MS in Software Engineering at Penn State University in 1991.
Got back in to climbing again in 1993. My full climbing background is on my site
under Experience summary page. " I do live in the Washington D.C.
Northern Virginia area and work as a Network Engineer.
Status:
Saeed latest Updates are up on his site. Frankly, we love his dispatches from the
insight on a first time climber on Everest.
Real stories, not hype. Check him out: www.everestdream.com.
7.) An experienced Danish
Expedition: Thrane & Thrane sponsorship of the first all Danish Mount Everest
Expedition. The
satellite communication company, Thrane & Thrane, is sponsoring the first all Danish
Mount Everest Expedition. All eight members of the
BigE-expedition are among the most experienced Danish climbers with significant
mountaineering experience. Leader of the expedition and team doctor is Henrik Jessen
Hansen.
The BigE-expedition and its
progress can be followed at Thrane & Thrane’s website: http://www.tt.dk/everest/intro.html
Updates from men who have
been on Everest before (including 96):
May
10 - Reflection and recharging.
May 09 - Things are moving again.
May 08 - A day of rest and
planning.
May 07 - Snow at Base Camp.
May 06 - The weather decides.
This expedition is planning a
South Pillar Route see: http://www.tt.dk/everest/hq_rute.html
8.) A Spanish Everest Expedition:
Everest 2000 www.lacenet.org You will
need to Join (in upper left hand corner). A South Side Expedition with many
experienced climbers including expeditions to Manaslu (1991), Makalu
(1976), Everest (1983 and 1985), Lothse (1980), Annapurna IV (1979),
Disthgil Sar (1982), Saipal (1985), Makalu (1988 and 1990), K2 (1995).
Update:
News !!! They are planning for a Summit attempt on the 13th !!!
9.) Andalucia Everest 2000:
Update: News !!! The Andalucias
are planning on the 14th ! 4 climbers plus a cameraman to attempt. Their
Doctor, as reported earlier on EverestNews.com, was seriously hurt, but will
live. The
Andalucias wanted to be "first up" in 2000.
They had worked very hard up high, but had to come down when their doctor was
hurt.
EverestNews.com will publish their
reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on
http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
10.) Asian-Trekking: Anna Czerwinska
(Poland), and Bill Zachary climbing independently.
Little is know about
Bill. He did not want to be in the News...
Anna is a very strong
climber. Look for her to team up with one of the group and go...
Anna, Bill, Saeed,
Jeff (below) and the other climbers climbing "independently", has from
time to time, teamed up his year.
11.) Jeffrey Warden
A lone climber from Canadian
attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden, and he is from
Winnipeg Canada. Below is a picture of him: www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com Jeff is an interesting
experienced climber, but his first time on Everest.
Jeff, in his last
dispatch on EverestNews.com, kindly provided by his family, stated a May
12th Summit day as the goal.
12.) Hugo http://www.everest2000.net returns to Everest
!
Hugo Rodriguez almost
stole the show ! If the weather holds he summits first. However, the weather did
not hold and Hugo and company smartly called it a day and came down. Hugo has
been very strong this year on Everest. He has reached the Summit of Everest
twice before, 1997 and 1999. His sirdar , Babu Chiri Sherpa,
planed a speed climb of Everest . His Sherpa climbers are very strong: Babu
Chiri Sherpa: 9 Summits of Everest, Dawa Sherpa: 4 times the
summit of the Everest, Nima Sherpa: 3 times to the
summit of the Everest, Lhakpa
Sherpa: One summit of the Everest.
"Certainly
there are other very outstanding Sherpas as Dorjee Sherpa that has achieved 7
ascents to the Everest or Lhakpa Sherpa that has 5 ascents, which collaborate
with other expeditions. But the team of Sherpas of "Mexico on Top of the
World" constitutes a unique force...."
Hugo, who has
rested after the Summit attempt (including descending below BC), we think
he
is about ready to go up again, if the weather breaks they will be strong.
13.) Never did like 13, can't have
a 13th expedition....
14.) Gabriel Filippi (http://www.everesty2k.com/) with Babu Chiri Sherpa. An air-traffic manager based in Iqaluit, 39,
would be the
third Quebecer to ascend the world's highest peak. The highest peak Filippi has
attained in a quarter-century of climbing has been Argentina's Mount Aconcagua, an
altitude of 6,962 meters. He has not attempted any 8000 meter peak before.
Gabriel is on the same
permit as the Mexican climbers (see Hugo above), but climbing separately as we
understand it. The first Quebecer to reach the top of Everest was Yves Laforest,
in 1991. Last year, Bernard Voyer became the second Quebecer to do
so.
Status: Filippi had a tough Everest with many heath problems. He has worked very hard,
but this is not going to be his year for the top.
15.) Canadian Everest Expedition
2000: The four-member team, the Canadian
Everest Expedition 2000, say they are not peak happy. Team leader Ben Webster, 36, said he wanted a team that would
focus on the process during the lengthy Everest climb, and not just on the summit awaiting
them. The team does not have much H.A. experience. His team members include Benoit
Robitaille, Francois Bιdard and Claude Bιrubι. Their every
detail (almost) has been carried on http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html
with full reports.
Status: Changing
daily is seems, but appears that 3 will go for the summit. Look for them to
follow others in a group. These 4 climbers are on the same permit as Mountain Madness
but are climbing the mountain separately.
16.) Mountain Madness
:
Christine Boskoff -
Expedition Leader
and Peter
Habeler.
Christine is the Expedition Leader:
The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter
peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999), Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho
Oyu-West Face (1996), Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.
Peter
Habeler
- Austria: Owner
and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine
Club, First man, along with
Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978).
8000 meter peaks: Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu
Peter and Christine have
worked very hard this Everest. Frankly, Christine, with heath problems, has been
a leader of the pack,
if the weather would have held she would have been on top. She made the right
decision (always easier to say that AFTER the events are over) not going for it.
Look for her and Peter (which is fine) to go up again, maybe very soon.
Check
their page on EverestNews.com for all their dispatches.
17.) Nazir
Sabir - The
Owner and Director of Nazir Sabir
Expeditions. 8000 meter peaks: K2
Summit with E. Otani (1981),
G-II with Reinhold Messner (1982), Broad Peak with Reinhold Messner (1982), G-I
(Hidden Peak), Expedition Leader for Pakistan's Golden Jubilee Everest
Expedition (1997).
Nazir is on the same permit as
MountainMadness, however is climbing the mountain independently from Peter and
Christine.
Nazir, has been to Everest
before, with bad luck. Look for him to make one more attempt this year.
18.) The Millennium
Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry. Check
their page on EverestNews.com.
This has been a fun
group. EverestNews.com has enjoyed following them. We
think they are getting ready !
19.) Koreans: The
Koreans has been up high a bunch. EverestNews.com knows little about this
expedition.
20.) Russians: See the
headline above and Risk www.risk.ru for more on
them.
21.) American Commercial
Expedition:
Lead by Robert Link
and Greg Wilson, this high profile expedition appears to be going slow with their
paying clients.
22.) Another Commercial
American Expedition
Frankly, we don't know
much about this group, except that the client is a rich fellow from Texas trying
for the third time at the Summit. This time at around age 69 ?
23.) Which bring us
the opposite: A 14 year old Nepal boy. Look for them to follow and climb with
the other Sherpa climbers.
24.) Then there are
the Spanish South Pillar Expedition, Carlos Soria, the India climbers, and
others... (OK we need a rest ...)
25.) Let end with
Henry !
Henry Todd back again
! Can't keep Henry down.
The Ministry of Nepal "officially" took Henry's control of the ice
fall away from him. However, Henry is still on Everest playing his role. He has
also has a Lhotse Expedition, which some we believe, are confusing as an Everest
Expedition. One of his climbers works for Discovery, which are carrying his
reports. Finn is climbing Everest "independently" (there is that word
again, sharing BC facilities, and climbing with a Sherpa (you need to read that story on
their site) provided by Henry.
EverestNews.com had
many discussions with Finn & Discovery.
They were nice to give EverestNews.com a credit on the site.
Finn, has been to BC,
but has little (if any) H.A. experience. He is living his dream.
Don't expect much News
on Henry's climber, as it is not his style. Some
of Henry's climbers are very high right now.
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