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 Daily News: 5/12/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: 

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000: Updated Annapurna 2000:

  • Everest South Side: 

"They were not able to go further". No summits on the South.

EverestNews.com is told,

These climbers are not "guided". Included in the eight that went to the camp 4 were the two Serbs climbers, we discussed last year on EverestNews.com. They were unable to come to Everest in 1999 because of the WAR. 

Americans and Serbs will now try to climb Everest TOGETHER. Two climbers are descending, unsure at this point which two.

Much more below directly from the mountain... Please read the Notice as the end.

  • Everest North Side: 

It was reported to EverestNews.com on the 10th that 5 climbers were moving up. We believe these are the Russians. In their update to Risk www.risk.ru, the Russians had a goal of reaching the Summit on the 9th. We do not know where they are right now.

However, the masses are moving up on the North, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4, the lines are forming. 

Frankly, the weather is poor. The winds are expected to be low, because of the jet stream moving out. The snow is coming and going. There is a lot of new snow up there. However, up high, where the climbers will look for Irvine, the snow does appear still light. But more than 1999.

  • Everest North Side: 

http://www.everest.home.nl/ Frits Vrijlandt and Steven Le Poole, will attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge. They are part of a non-commercial British/Dutch expedition.

Update May 11 2000: Frits and Steven are reporting the weather is good on the North Side ! Check them out !

Inaki Ochoa Spanish Expedition Update: The Retena Expedition Odyssey Everest 2000, reporting that the weather is good and the climbers at 7900 meters and moving up. 

  • Back to the South

First of all, thanks for writing asking for news! Yes, on Sunday 14th, a first team, formed by two mountaineers and a Sherpa, of the Everest 2000 expedition will try to get to the summit. There's a second team formed by other two mountaineers and another Sherpa ready to try it 48 hours later. The weather will 'decide' if they can make the attempt. 

This is all we know at the moment. I wanted to write an e-mail before, letting you know that two mountaineers of the Everest 2000 expedition (Jordi Bonet and Joan Belmonte) were the first western mountaineers to get to the South Arκte. 

Hope this information is useful.

Have a nice weekend!

Nica Dalmau Projecte LaceNet http://www.lacenet.org 

One we did not get to yesterday in the Summary: 

They finished the acclimatization process sleeping at 7,300 m. and arriving to 8.000m. Now they are having a rest for some days in the Base Camp. If the weather conditions are ok (which is not so obvious as you know, it is being very cold and windy), they expect to leave the BC the 14th or 15th and try their first attempt to reach the summit. If everything is fine, the dates of summit would be the 18th/19th. They are trying to reach the top without the use of supplementary oxygen, and going for another route that the normal one (the same route that a Danish expedition. I think that they and the Danish are the only two expeditions from the Nepali side trying a different route). Well, I will inform you when I get more "fresh" news, Mariona 

A team of eight climbers and over 20 Sherpas will climb to Camp 4 on Everest this spring to attempt to bring down hundreds of discarded oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other climbers in the past. Besides performing this necessary task the group will also attempt to summit Everest. Members include Robert Chang, Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition to Everest), Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The expedition trek leader is Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the son of one of the first Everest summiteers, Tenzing Norgay. In addition, Sherman Bull, 62, of Stamford, CT, is a physician member. The lead Sherpa is Appa Sherpa.

Dispatch 5/6/2000: What do you do on Cinco de Mayo when you're sitting at Everest Base Camp waiting for the snow to stop and the winds to shift so you can go summit the mountain?

Check their site for the rest of the dispatch: www.everestcleanup.com 

  • Jeffrey Warden

A lone climber from Canadian attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden, and he is from Winnipeg Canada. 

This is an old dispatch; Did anyone notice what he said my Sherpa suggests? 

Dispatch: As for my latest plan, my Sherpa suggests we leave Base Camp here on the 9th for a 12th summit bid. 

Interesting when we look back sometimes. 


  • Update Kangchenjunga 5/11/2000


Despite delays getting himself and his equipment to base camp, and set-backs caused by the weather, Alan Hinkes has begun his assault of the giant Himalayan mountain Kangchenjunga (8586m).

Alan is attempting to be the first Briton to climb all fourteen of the world's highest mountains, which are all over 8000 meters in height - Challenge 8000. This spring, he is attempting to climb Kangchenjunga the third highest mountain in the world. 

Alan arrived at base camp (4500m) on Sunday 30 April after an epic eighteen days journey from Kathmandu. The trek from the road head at Tapelejung had taken several days longer than expected due to severe weather. Very heavy snow falls made the route treacherous and the 25 porters who were carrying all of his equipment were forced to take the last part of the trek at a very slow pace. 

At base camp, Alan found four other expeditions, from India, Korea, Switzerland and Britain already tackling Kangchenjunga. They were able to report that the severe storms had dumped a lot of fresh snow on the mountain, increasing the avalanche danger and making the ascent much more dangerous. 

"Once the sun has come up it starts to partially melt the snow and I can hear avalanches crashing down the mountain throughout the day," said Alan via satellite phone. "Everything is completely white; the fresh falls of snow have covered up many of the rocky outcrops." 

Once all of his equipment had arrived at base camp, Alan was able to begin his assault on the mountain. On Friday 5 May he climbed up to Camp 1 at 6050 meters, crossing deep snow and climbing up some challenging rock and ice obstacles. He spent the night at this altitude and suffered from some mild altitude sickness, which every climber has to overcome before they can go higher. He returned to base camp on Saturday to rest. 

To acclimatize safely, all climbers have to gradually climb higher, returning to base camp to rest before pushing higher, returning, pushing higher still and returning to rest until they are ready to make the final summit attempt. Acute mountain sickness can be fatal and it is important to acclimatize slowly to the altitude, although every time a climber pushes higher he will suffer from the early signs of mountain sickness; headaches, flu-like symptoms, nausea and disorientation. It will take Alan about three weeks of climbing and returning before he is acclimatized enough to make a summit attempt. 

On Wednesday 10 May, Alan set off for Camp 1 again and hopes to climb to Camp 2 at 6800m and possibly higher, where he will spend one or two nights before returning to base camp. Eventually Alan will put Camp 3 at about 7300m and his final Camp, which may only be a bivouac at about 7800m. He should be ready to make his summit attempt in the last week in May. Kangchenjunga is 8586m high, only 300m lower than Everest. 

Before leaving for Camp 1 Alan commented: "It feels good to be on the mountain climbing, although the conditions are not ideal. This area at the eastern end of the Himalayan mountains has a reputation for bad weather so I was expecting the conditions to be hard. The monsoon will come in fast at the end of May, so I shall take every break in the weather over the next three weeks to push higher until I am ready to make my attempt on the summit of Kangchenjunga." 

  • Notice;

EverestNews.com plans to update around 11:00PM EST US tonight (Friday). EverestNews.com will then follow with an update on Saturday morning. We DO NOT expect breaking News during the day (because of the time in Nepal)..... See You tonight (for those of you in the US...) Best of luck to everyone, We will keep the climbers in our prayers. 

For all the May 2000 News

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

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