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For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000:Updated Cho Oyu 2000: Updated

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000:  Annapurna 2000:

NEWSFLASH 9:36 AM EST US

  • The Summit Attempt:

The e-mails...

1.) 2:00pm..at this moment everyone is safe...resting and hydrating at the South Col. They will be leaving for the summit if all goes as planned at 11:00 pm tonight on the 12th of May 2000. The group going up as of now will be: Rick, Dick, Patrick, Tim, Kristy and Mike...the Sherpas will be with them as well. Goron and Dragon will be returning to Camp 2. The weather now at the South Col is sunny with a slight wind. Everyone is in good spirits and are excited to get the chance to try for the summit. Take no notice of other reports  All is well and I will keep you updated.....  Everest Base Camp

2.) They have a plan to move toward the summit tonight, as per the information around here. There should be a contact with the base camp later today and we will cross check with that. Thanks. bikrum Himalaya Centre Kathmandu

3.) Mike is a county executive 44 years old. Kristy is a grade school phys. ed. teacher 28 years old. Mike has climbed since he was 20 years old. His Resume includes climbs on McKinley, Aconcagua, Mount St. Helens ( before it blew up ), all major peaks in the cascade in Washington State, Search and Rescue, Iron Man 7 times, various marathon runs.

Kristy, High school All American soccer player, Washington State University Soccer Champions, Summited most major peaks in Washington state , Climbs on Aconcagua, etc....  five years of climbing experience. Craig 

4.) Update: Here is a final update for you until the climbers return to BC tomorrow.  "Last evening (May 12) they left the South Col (C 4) at around 10 pm and despite the -35 degree temperatures the team made good progress for 3 hours until they were forced to turn around because of the cold--as far as we know.   They spent the remainder of the night sleeping at camp 4 and today (May 13) they have descended to camp 2 where they will spend the night." 

"In regards to other teams there is quite a mixture of activity going on.  Some teams have headed down the valley for a rest and thicker air in the last couple of days while 4 other teams are currently moving up the mountain for summit attempts in the next couple of days.  The media coverage presented by other expeditions has to be taken with a large grain of salt as they have responsibilities to keep their sponsors happy.  Chances are that the climbers will have another summit attempt in the following weeks after a good and well deserved rest. That is all from us for now, we'll leave the climbers to fill you in on more details once they arrive down and have rested.  Everyone is doing just great.  We know this is a trying time for family at home."

All the best for all of us at base camp

5.) Update from Kathmandu:

Henry Todd's Expedition summit attempt on the Mount Everest this spring season has been aborted.  A team of seven members led by British climber Rick Allen had left South Col. at 2300 hrs last night, May 12th, towards the summit. They had to turn back, according to Henry Todd's office in Kathmandu, from a point 1000 ft.  below the summit, due cold, heavy wind and deep snow condition. They have all made safe journey back at South Col. They are all assembling at the base camp by tomorrow. It is reported that following people attempted the summit last night / this morning. Rick Allen,  Patrick Konney, Timothy Cowen, Kristy Woodmansee, Mike Woodmansee, Dragon Jacimovic, Goran Ferlan, Richard Stone, They all belong to Henry Todd's Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition 2000. Reported by Sangita & Binita at Himalaya Centre Kathmandu, 13th May 2000. 

  • The Speed Record is ON ! But Not Babu !

Everest Spring 2000: Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com http://www.adventure.co.nz 

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants in Spring 2000.  Adventure Consultants is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy Cotter and the qualified guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants’ expeditions. 

Update: 13th May - Guy Cotter reports from Base Camp

Ang Dorje Sherpa to attempt speed ascent record

Guy's words...

Tomorrow afternoon (14 May) Ang Dorje Sherpa from the Adventure Consultants Everest expedition will make an attempt to climb Mt Everest in record time in one push from Base Camp to the summit.

He is being supported by the Adventure Consultants team of Sherpas as well as Guide David Hiddleston who intends to summit at the same time as Ang Dorje and record the event. The previous record for the ascent is by Marc Batard who has climbed the peak in 24 hours from Base Camp. Passang Kaji Sherpa claimed a record in 1999 of 20 hours and 24 minutes but used indistinct photographs, supposedly depicting Everest's' summit, as proof of the ascent but the photos just showed a snowy background, where a very distinct antennae on the summit would have surely proved him to be at the high point. Naturally this ascent has been widely disputed although one must assume that a naive approach to positive proof may be the major factor in the dispute. Ang Dorje has not given an estimate on the time he expects to make between base camp and the summit, " There are too many things like snow conditions to slow me down" he says. He also claims that if he reaches South Col and doesn't feel good he will abandon the ascent. "Maybe I will do it, but if not feeling good, down." Over the last few weeks a lot of snow has fallen at high altitudes which will slow down progress up high and although the weather is good right now Ang Dorje is reluctant to place undue pressure on himself to meet a predetermined time. He understands that all he can do is his best. Already having summited Mt Everest 5 times, Ang Dorje knows every step of the way to the top and until now he has been to the Sth Summit (only 100m short of the top) 13 times. With such a background Ang Dorje realistically knows his limits and is not out to endanger his life or those around him supporting him on this world record attempt.. 

Of note this season is the fact that another Sherpa, Babu Chiri from Solu Khumbu, has claimed that he will break the speed record on Everest this year. A widely publicized campaign claims that he intends to climb the 3500m from base camp to summit in 16 hours. Babu has the unique distinction of having slept on the summit of Mt Everest for 21 hours in 1999 and now intends to increase his profile by doing a speed ascent. Sources who know both Ang Dorje and Babu believe that Ang Dorje's strength and experience define him as the superior climber of the two. However Ang Dorje is not setting out to compete against Babu, rather this is a personal challenge he has set for himself. 

Recognized as one of the strongest and fastest of the Sherpa climbers, Ang Dorje also has a reputation as a sensible climber and an asset to any climbing team. Having reached Mt Everest's summit first in 1992 with the first guided expedition run by Adventure Consultants Ltd, Ang Dorje has been instrumental as the Sirdar, or Sherpa leader, for AC ever since. Having attempted to save the life of beleaguered guide Rob Hall and his client Doug Hansen in 1996 during the well publicized tragedy on Mt Everest, Ang Dorje has a maturity forged by both the tragic and the triumphant. A loyal and humble friend to his climbing companions, he revels in the lighter moments enjoying some tomfoolery and occasional frantic dancing sessions during base camp parties! 

Ang Dorje has known and been friend to present Adventure Consultants company owner Guy Cotter since they first climbed Everest in 1992. They went onto Everest again in '93 (when Cotter gave up his summit bid to assist an ailing climber down from high on the mountain) and again in 1995 when Cotter again became involved in what is believed to be the worlds highest rescue. French female climber Chantal Mauduit collapsed on the Sth Summit during an attempt to climb with out oxygen. Cotter put his oxygen onto Mauduit and dragged her down to the 'balcony' where fellow guide Ed Viesturs had the group waiting to assist her back to Sth Col. In 1996, in the wake of the Everest tragedy, Cotter and Ang Dorje teamed up again to climb Ama Dablam and Adventure Consultants was reborn. The company has gone on  to achieve ascents on many of the worlds highest peaks focusing on increasing safety margins with the group summiting Everest again in '97. 

Reporting to the world via radio of their successful ascent at 6.50am on May 23, no-one could believe they had reached the summit so early in the day. Being back in South Col before many teams had even summited was a highlight for the whole team. This was proof that AC had moved on to display that not only had they managed to bring high altitude guiding to a new level, but that they could do so with over 60 people summiting that day. Later in the day climber Dave Carter came down with a severe throat infection which left him wiped out physically. A protracted descent with Ed Viesturs to CIII and severe respiratory problems was cause for concern for Carters life. He describes his experiences as follows; 

"The main thing to say is that Adventure Consultants is the only group on the hill that is totally prepared for almost any 

situation.  If it was not for AC I would have never  made it off the hill.  Because of a strong team and a real Doctor down at base camp I was able to survive respiratory failure. Adventure Consultants is truly a professional organization.  They are the best deal when it comes to survival and leadership in the mountains, one of the few organizations that can actually lead at high altitudes.  Party Hard, David Carter " 

Ang Dorje has been considering a personal attempt at a speed ascent of Mt Everest for a few years now, and the planning and conditions for this have finally come together. Adventure Consultants is honored to be in the position whereby westerners are supporting a Sherpa ascent rather than Sherpas supporting western climbers. 

Guy

Now we know what he was talking about....in Earlier dispatches.

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. This year's expedition will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous Everest expeditions and reached the Summit of K2), supported by Tim Bird. 

Update 5/13/2000: The Jagged Globe team led by Andrew Lock is today moving from Camp 2 to Camp 3 in preparation for a summit attempt on the May 15. The delay from the previously mentioned summit day is due to logistics and climbing conditions on the mountain. Today (13th May) a Himalayan Guides team led by Rick Allen attempted the summit but turned back near the balcony due to extreme cold (-37) and we believe difficult snow conditions. The weather is very stable and we wish the team every success on the 15th. Tim Bird 

  • On this day last year, Mike Matthews lost this life on Everest. May our thoughts and prayers be with his family and those climbers that were on the mountain that day for they will never be the same. 

For Mike, he is in a better place...

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Daily News: 5/13/2000 Report

  • Everest South Side: 

No "Real News" Yet.

Rumors and radio calls, that apparently some reporters are listening to, are being reported. 

Editorial

Is it ethical to listen to climber's radio calls on Everest and report the News ? Eric Simonson, Russell Brice and others have spoke out strongly against even the thought of this in the past...

What effect could this have on what the climbers do or say if they know reporters are listening to what is said. 

Henry Todd nor his Base Camp manager has told the families to this point the status of the Summit attempt last night. 

EverestNews.com knows of no problems.

EverestNews.com received a ton of mail today from Everest climbers in an uproar about a certain American web site's reporting, calling climbers "Freaking Lunatics". None of Everest climbers e-mails are printable on what we view as a family site.

Climbers are "Freaking Upset" at the reporting. Families are "Freaking Upset". Was Messner a "Freaking Lunatic", when he climbed Everest solo ? Are the several hundred climbers who are moving up the mountain right now all "Freaking Lunatics" ? 

Should not people be allowed to make their own decisions if they are not putting others at risk ?

Who is to judge ?

Look for more in a few days...

It also bring us to a Question, we have wondered about, and worried about. What is going to happen this year when a climber comes up missing or dies with all these reporters on the Mountain ?

Will the families read the News on the Net first? We surely hope not...

Very serious issues from our point of view. 

If you have no idea what this "Freaking Lunatic" issue is, don't concern yourself with it, be thankful. 

We expect a large group of climbers to attempt the Summit on the 14th from the South. See below for some of the groups. 

  • Everest North Side: 

Hundreds of climbers move up Camps....

Some Climbers (also known as ... no we won't go there... Hopefully the point has been made) are near the top... 

Some details are below:

Update: Chris Boskoff dispatch received 8pm on May 12

Hi, Chris Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness at Everest Base Camp on May 12. Here's an overview of the last few days On May 05 Peter, Nazir and I climbed to C3. In the middle of the night Peter had some problems with his breathing and went down to  BC at 5 in the morning. Nazir, Dorje, (unclear), Kili Sherpa and I continued to climb to the South Col and C4on May 06 It was a windy and stormy night at C4, there was also a Canadian team there trying for the summit. Due to storms our team stayed in our tent. The Canadian team and their Sherpas (unclear) and decided it was hopeless. 

Our team descended at 7 am on May 07 in whiteout with high winds. Dorje and I broke trail from C3 to BC unburying fixed lines. Dorje and I went to BC The others stayed at C2 for the night. Nazir and Kili decided to descend to BC the next day on May 08. 

Today Peter and I spent 4 days at BC.  Today we plan to plan to climb to C2 and try for our next summit attempt. We'll try to do dispatches.  Peter Habeler says hi to everyone.  

That's it from Chris Boskoff. 

  • The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry www.7-2000.co.uk.

The team have arrived at Camp Two at 5PM, Friday 12th. Weather permitting they remain on course for the final climb to the summit on May 14th

Everest Base Camp Wednesday 10th May

Now we are in the final days of our Expedition and the mountain has knocked us back twice with bad weather. Now we are trying for the third time ( lucky ?). We leave again tomorrow morning, unless the weather is bad. In actual fact it is not so much the wind but also the depth of the snow and the fact that nobody wants to break trail at 20,000 feet plus, since this would be so exhausting as to almost certainly stop us dead in our tracks. Even the Sherpas baulk at breaking trail. Nobody has summitted yet and those people who have tried have just been beaten back.

A lot of people are going to try for the next few days so we will join the bandwagon and hope for the best. we have heard that Camp 3 is utterly clogged with snow and many tents have collapsed. The route to Camp 4 ( which we would do on oxygen ) basically traverses the upper section of the Lhotse Face and the snow that has accumulated there is now avalanche-prone - another problem to think about !

Although we're keeping the spirits up, there is such a strong feeling of frustration now and most conversations revolve around going home ( apart from going up !). It is very annoying that after all this time, having done everything right and having been so successful thus far, the mountain may well knock us back. Our feelings are very philosophical on this score - we simply have to do the best that we can and appreciate that climbing Everest is as much about luck as it is about ability. If we don't make it then the experience of being on Everest will stay with us for a long time, I know that.

We are all missing friends, girlfriends, boyfriends, parents and so on. It will be wonderful to get back to civilization, new faces, our homes and home comforts. I keep getting emails from people describing how they are sitting down to roast chicken, at a table in a warm house, with a nice bottle of vin rouge and so on ! Thanks very much ! Well just to reciprocate, today we had lunch in a big green mess tent in about 4 degrees C, and it was a stunningly delectable meal of half a pilchard in tomato sauce with one thick slice of slightly hard yak cheese and a single sandwich with two pieces of very old Spam lovingly placed between two slabs of white bread. All washed down with weak milk tea in a tin mug !

We met an English guy today who is planning to run from Base Camp to Kathmandu ( 186 miles ) in less than 3 days, 10 hours which is the current world record. The people you meet up here !

So that's it for now. We'll give it another go, be assured of that, and hope for the very best. Meanwhile I hope you're all enjoying the roast chicken with rich thick gravy, roasties, fresh vegetables, pudding.....

All the very Best

Gavin Bate

  • Everest Base Camp Thursday 12th May AM

Today a team of 14 people broke the logjam on the mountain and made Camp 4 South Col and are planning to go for the summit tonight. We will all be watching carefully to see how they go. We will be going up tomorrow morning at 5am to once again try for the top of this hill. We have joined forces with the Mountain Madness team and the Nepalese Women's Team so that we have greater numbers to get through the expected deep snow.

The worry is initially getting up and over the Lhotse Face. Yesterday there was supposed to have been an avalanche when the Russian were up there, but this turned out to be just a collapsing serac which damaged a load of badly positioned tents. We are hoping that our tents are fine ! 

The weather is about as good as we can expect - the wind has dropped and swung round to a dry northerly, which is good for us. The probability of snow is 30% - 50%, but we are going to live with that. We understand the Lhotse Face is not too bad although there is a worry about traversing the upper section of the Face in case of avalanche. The fact that 14 people got over it today is some comfort.

We are hoping that this team tonight will make a success of their summit attempt and break some sort of trail up from the Balcony to the South Summit and onto the true summit. We have heard that there are likely to be other groups going for the top on the 15th or 16th as well, so we hope to have company.

With great regret and sadness Michele Santilhano will not be joining the summit team tomorrow. Due to the restraints of summit day that Everest forces upon every climber, Michele will be returning back down the hill. She has made it to 23,700' thus far without oxygen.

The five remaining climbers - myself, John Barry, Andrew Salter, Polly Murray and Chris Tiso will try our level best to summit in the coming days. Because of time restraints this is very probably our last chance to give it a go. Be assured we are primed and ready.

Thanks to all for continued support. Noel Bristow, our comms manager here, and Greg manning the home HQ office, will keep you all updated over the coming days as to our progress.

All the very best, Gavin

  • Everest Base Camp - 12th May 2000

The climbing team left Base Camp this morning at 5:00 AM. The weather is looking good at the moment - low winds and no snow. They reached Camp 1 (at the top of the Khumbu Icefall) late in the morning and rested there (sunbathed in fact!) for several hours, before leaving for Camp 2 (at the head of the Western Cwm). They reached Camp 2 at 5:00 PM from where they radioed down in good spirits - they had managed to miss most of the heat in the Western Cwm by waiting for the afternoon clouds to come over.

They are now resting at Camp 2, waiting for the next forecast, which we will relay to them later this evening. If the forecast is favorable they will forego their usual rest day at Camp 2 and leave for Camp 3 (halfway up the Lhotse Face) tomorrow morning.

We have received news that the climbers who reached Camp 4 (on the South Col) yesterday did NOT leave for the summit at midnight and have in fact spent all of today resting in their tents, from where they will leave for the summit at around midnight. They did not leave for the summit as they arrived at the South Col quite late in the afternoon yesterday. We hope that the weather holds for them as they will be fixing ropes from Babu's high point of a week ago, which will make life easier for our team. It means that our team and Sherpas will not have to expend valuable energy fixing these ropes.

Noel Bristow

  • Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:

May 12, 2000 And then there were 2 It's all over for the youngest member of the CEE 2000 team. Citing a lack of motivation and exhaustion, Benoit Robitaille has withdrawn. 

Check them out http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html

  • Everest South Pillar

An experienced Danish Expedition: Thrane & Thrane sponsorship of the first all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. 

May 11 - A gas explosion and everything on hold.
May 10 - Reflection and recharging.
May 09 - Things are moving again

The BigE-expedition and its progress can be followed at Thrane & Thrane’s website: http://www.tt.dk/everest/intro.html

11.05 The transcription of 6 May call of Krasnodar Everest expedition.... details 

11.05 The report from Moscow Everest expedition. 11.05. A. Abramov and V. Skripko especially for "RISK Online"... details

  • The Dutch: They won't Quit !

Dutch Panaroma Everest Expedition Leader: Hans van der Muelen.

Also www.mounteverest.nl 

Going for the summit with 2 teams. Hans returned to BC from ABC yesterday after his failed, but heroic attempt. He looked battered. Early Friday a team of three Dutch climbers (Henk, Arjan, Rene) will leave BC for the next push. They will be accompanied by the 2 Sherpas and will together prepare the summit ridge above C 4 with fixed ropes.

A second team of three (Hans, Reinout, Richard) will follow 3 days later for their push, and who will have the advantage of using the fixed ropes. 

Check out their web sites !

  • Other News

On April 8, 2000, two TechRepublic technology writers and editors, David Bard and Mike Jackman, boarded American Airlines flight 1225. Ultimate destination: Nepal. Sponsored by TechRepublic and a host of hi-tech vendors, they toted a load of high-tech expedition gear and computing equipment. Their purpose? To explore the area where nature and technology meet, to help the children at Most Blessed Sacrament school learn about climbing, and about Nepal's culture and religion, and to send back daily dispatches, articles, and pictures via satellite uplink. 

For 25 days, they reported on their story, on the reliability of the tech equipment used to aid expeditions to Everest and other extreme peaks, and also attempted some climbing of their own--Island Peak--With the help of Colorado Mountain School guide and co-owner Bruce Andrews. At 20,285 feet (6,183 meters), Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is equivalent to Mount McKinley, North America's highest mountain. 

For David, an experienced Rocky Mountain trekker and mountaineer, this was his first peak over 14,000 feet. For Mike, an avid hiker, but less experienced climber, this was his first climb over 8,600 feet. 

Read all about their experiences at the TechRepublic almostEverest briefing center. 

Dispatch 5/122000: Talks about their Sherpa Sponsor Program. Check their site for the rest of the dispatch: www.everestcleanup.com 

May 10th Marina Ershova, the leader of expedition summited to the top of Cho-Oyu from Camp II together with Sherpas of Iranian expedition. It was a lot of fresh snow and they had to brake the trail so they moved slowly, and she had been back to Camp2 at 20:00. She returned back to ABC on May 11th. 

Today two other Russian climbers Nasedkin and Kuzmin started from Camp 3 and summited at about 14:00. At 17:00 they returned to the tent of Camp 3. Tomorrow they have to return to ABC. 

No sign of the two climbers who disappeared the other day has shown up. 

On the 5.5. weather was quite good, Korean team who summitted 9.5. saw some footsteps going from the first top to left to Nepal. They have lost the  trail and maybe the bodies are never found. Marina summited yesterday and are coming today to base camp. Me Jorma Alanen have send both these messages and feeling quite good - mind  is sad. 

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  • Other News

Messner is fine. He broke his leg early on but his capacity for pain is really high so he just taped it up every night and went onward. Pretty amazing. He fractured 5th metatarsal. He has asked people not to make a big deal of it though! 

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova 

  • Other News

On April 8, 2000, two TechRepublic technology writers and editors, David Bard and Mike Jackman, boarded American Airlines flight 1225. Ultimate destination: Nepal. Sponsored by TechRepublic and a host of hi-tech vendors, they toted a load of high-tech expedition gear and computing equipment. Their purpose? To explore the area where nature and technology meet, to help the children at Most Blessed Sacrament school learn about climbing, and about Nepal's culture and religion, and to send back daily dispatches, articles, and pictures via satellite uplink. 

For 25 days, they reported on their story, on the reliability of the tech equipment used to aid expeditions to Everest and other extreme peaks, and also attempted some climbing of their own--Island Peak--With the help of Colorado Mountain School guide and co-owner Bruce Andrews. At 20,285 feet (6,183 meters), Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is equivalent to Mount McKinley, North America's highest mountain. 

For David, an experienced Rocky Mountain trekker and mountaineer, this was his first peak over 14,000 feet. For Mike, an avid hiker, but less experienced climber, this was his first climb over 8,600 feet. 

Read all about their experiences at the TechRepublic almostEverest briefing center. 

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