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 Daily News: 5/14/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: 

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000:Updated Annapurna 2000:

(Note as you read today's News: Know today's news is really continued from Saturday and Friday, plus the NEWSFLASHES. Therefore if you have not read Saturday's and Friday's News, you will need to, to get a better picture of the Status of the climbers on Everest.)

EverestNews.com this year is offering our readers  "Guest Columns" perspectives from climbers who has summitted Everest. In this case a climber who has reached the Summit from both sides. Graham is discussing how things are going so far. This is the climb from his perspective.

Graham Ratcliffe, the first climber from the UK who reached the Summit of Everest from both the North and South Sides.

Graham Ratcliffe www.highambitions.com 

I was some what dismayed when I read one report being posted from Base Camp referring to a summit push by Henry Todd's team as ' Freaking Lunatics '.  Much of the report appeared to be made on what they had listened into on other peoples radio messages and guess work.  I think the report probably says more about sensationalist journalism and the lack of grasp of intelligent language than of the other team's decision to make a summit push.

People visiting EverestNews.com should know that Henry Todd is not out for popularity votes but has a safety record on very big mountains that is outstanding.

I like the reporters comment when he reported that Henry was openly contemptuous about the media, this is not strictly true as Henry worked with the BBC in 98 and 99 perfectly well but given 'that report', is it surprising he has contempt for certain sections !!

I totally agree with the concern of EverestNews.com about people sending reports after having listened into radio messages.

This is a great dis-service to the sport of climbing.

In the events of 96, and I was there, the teams in Base Camp put a 24 hour news blackout until families were informed.  My wife was told I was safe and on my way down a full 24 hours before she started to get phone calls from the press.  Can you imagine the distress if that if had been the other way around !!

In reading the report I also note that Henry's team was on the South Col awaiting the next weather report before they went for it. I predicted in my last column several days ago that avalanche on the Lhotse face and snow high up would be a problem so this will have come as no surprise to Henry's team either.

Consider the fact that the report they got forecast even more snow.....it looks as though they decided to take a chance and make a summit push before the snow high up got even deeper. OK it didn't work but climbing this high always carries a risk and each team has to decide the level of this and they did turn around without causing a drama.

You have to remember that in 1996 they knew the storm was coming it just came a day earlier than predicted !!!

The reporter also stated that Babu was the only one to have gone high up to now........ I thought I had read he was with Hugo and the other Mexicans (plus his Sherpas Team).

Babu is an intelligent man and would not go breaking trail by himself up to the Balcony !!

Graham Ratcliffe 

  • Everest South Side: Will it be tonight or on the 15th? Stay tuned. EverestNews.com will update again about 11:00PM EST US on 5/13/200. Do NOT Expect NEWSFLASHES today, they will not happen. 
  • Mountain Madness

Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

Update: Christine has reported in that at 5:20 Nepal time on May 13, she and Peter Habeler were at Camp 3. They will be leaving for Camp 4 at 3.00AM on the 14th. 

Stay Tuned...

The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition

We have just talked to the team at Camp 2 (it is 6 o'clock in the evening here in Nepal) and they are definitely setting off for Camp 3 tomorrow. Hooray! The summit attempt has begun...

Everest Update 5/13/2000

The climbing team spent a relaxing day at Camp 2 in preparation for their summit bid. The Sherpas spent their day at Base Camp before they go up to Camp 2 tomorrow. Whereas the team will go from Camps 2 to 3 to 4 and then to the summit, the Sherpas will go from Base Camp to Camp 2, then Camp 4, charging straight past Camp 3. At Camp 4 they will catch up with the team and join them on their Summit Day.

A team attempted to reach the summit today but only got as far as the Balcony (about halfway to the summit from Camp 4) where the fixed ropes end. This means that there have been no successful attempts to reach the top this year. So far, the teams have been hampered on their final summit day by the snow laying thick underfoot. The energy it takes to break trail is phenomenal at that altitude, even if the snow is only inches deep. Two or more teams set off today from Camp 2 to Camp 3 and they are planning to try and summit on the 15th May. They are going to try to share the work of breaking trail to increase their chances of success. Our team will follow them a day later and hope that they will benefit from being able to follow in several people's footsteps.

We have just talked to the team at Camp 2 (it is 6 o'clock in the evening here in Nepal) and they are definitely setting off for Camp 3 tomorrow. Hooray! The summit attempt has begun..

Cheers

Amanda

  • Kangchenjunga Spring 2000 

The First Ascent of Kangchenjunga for the Spring Season 2000 

At 1403 local time (0918 UK time) today, Saturday 13th May 2000, John Doyle, Ady Cole, Nima Dhorje and Pemba Norbu stood on the summit of Kangchenjunga (8586 meters), the third highest mountain in the world.  They are the first climbers this season to reach the Summit of Kangchenjunga and achieved the ascent without the use of supplementary oxygen. - Steve Jackson, the Leader. 

Himalaya Center,  Kathmandu  13 May 2000

  • Cho Oyu Summits Also are being reported.
  • New Books ! 

Lust for more Mallory & Irvine info? Get the Book: "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine," by Tom Holzel & Audrey Salkeld, Pimlico/Random House (UK), The Mountaineers (USA) Available Now

Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest by Beck Weathers, Stephen G. Michaud (Contributor) List Price: $24.95 Our Price: $17.47 You Save: $7.48 (30%) Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours.

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