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Makalu
2000: Dhaulagiri 2000:
Lhotse
2000: Cho Oyu 2000:
Manaslu
2000: Kangchenjunga
2000: Annapurna 2000:
NEWSFLASH 12:06PM EST
US 5/19/2000
-
More Summits from
the North Last Night
Brits: Mark James and
Dan White and Nga Temba Sherpa
Russians: 19.05 Today
the members of Kuban-Everest-2000 expedition Alexei Bokov, Nikolai Zararov,
Boris Sedusov and Oleg Afanasiev summited to the top of Everest!
Congratulations!... details
Check risk www.risk.ru for the details.
- The Spanish South
Pillar Expedition was planning to go last night:
I have just received
an email one hour ago from the base camp telling me that three of the seven
Catalan climbers arrived to the camp 4 (8.100 m.) this early morning. As they
followed a different route than the normal one (between camp2 and camp 4)[This
is the South Pillar Route] it was really difficult to go up. They spent a
lot of hours due to the snow but they finally managed to open the track.
Therefore, if the weather is fine, they feel all right and specially the
mountain lets them, they expect the first attempt to reach the summit this
night.
Best wishes and I let
you know any news. Mariona
- Next Update will be
Saturday when we try to update Expedition by Expedition status.
NEWSFLASH 7:42AM EST
US 5/19/2000
- AND THEN THERE WERE
SEVEN !
Sergio Martini, has
reached the Summit of Lhotse completing the 14 8000 meter Summits.
Sergio is a great climber. When he summited Everest in 1999 from the North
without the use of bottled
oxygen, climbers told
Everestnews.com, "He
looks like he was out for a hike".
EverestNews.com was
told that Sergio was going to Lhotse, but we were asked to keep it a secret
until after He Summited.
EverestNews.com and
his Italians friends figured the secret would be out when he arrived into
Everest Base Camp with his camera crew. However, the many reporters did not seem
to notice. Probably saying something about how H.A. climbing is generally
covered around the world.
Sergio once before
thought he Summitted Lhotse. Sergio was climbing in white out conditions (well
what some others would call white out conditions). A climber in the following
days, claimed Sergio and his (Fausto
De Stefani) friend's
footprints did not go all the way to the Summit of Lhotse. Sergio had thought
they did, but as we understand it, he said it was possible under the conditions
that they did not. His "Summit" was not recognized. Sergio, did not
protest, that we know of. Instead,
he returned in his quiet and humble way and did it again !
Sergio now ranked with
the other 6 great men, those Summits are NOT disputed:
Reinhold
Messner (ITA)
Jerzy
Kukuczka (POL)
Ehardt
Loretan (SUI)
Carlos
Carsolio (MEX)
Krzysztof
Wielicki (POl)
Juan
Oiarzabal (Spain)
This is an elite class
of climbers. As time go on, EverestNews.com thinks you will see just how hard it
is to complete the 14!
Now there are Seven !
- We thank the
Slovenians, who we shared the secret with, for their help. We also thank our
Italians friends for having the trust in EverestNews.com to share the secret
with us that he was going...
Slovenian News !
Ascent Route : West
Face
Date of Summit : 19 May 2000
Name of the Expedition : Slovenian Himalayan Expedition Lhotse 2000
Expedition Leader : Mr. Tomaz Zerovnik, (1967), Computer Professional,
Merezilje, SLOVENIA.
Country : SLOVENIA
No. of Team Members :8
Starting Point : C-4 (app. 7900m)
Time of Summit : 14.10
Nepal Time
Start Time: 01.00 Nepal
Time
Name of Summiters,
Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country
1. Aco Pepevnik, 41,
Professional Climber, Sentjur, SLOVENIA
2. Milan Romih, 40,
Professional Climber, Slovenska Bistrica, SLOVENIA
Note: Italian climber
Sergio also summited Lhotse with them!
more on: http://lhotse.siol.net
Daily News: 5/19/2000
Report
Sources are reporting
to EverestNews.com that the weather forecast has turned for the worst.
Therefore, some expeditions are delaying their attempts for a few days. Spanish
climbers and Sherpa climbers, possibly including he 14 year old Nepal boy were
believed to be at Camp 4 last night. Unclear if they went for it yet...
Summits, Summits, and
more Summits. We will start on our Summit List.
One report we received
had around 26 Summiters on day two/three ! These are not yet confirmed. We have
started "Our Summit List" and should have it live by Monday.
The Koreans
"reported Summits" have consistently
confusing details. Their
Summits will need confirmed. Stay Tuned, it might take awhile.
-
Everest Spring 2000: A
14 year boy
A 14
year boy, Temba Tshering
Sherpa, plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000 from the Nepal
side of the mountain. Needless to say, he would be the youngest to Summit
Everest if successful. Temba
Tsheri Sherpa born in 06/05/85 is climbing Mt. Everest. Temba got inspiration
for climbing Mt. Everest from his father and the fairy-tale he used to hear from
friends and relatives about the success of climbing Mt. Everest and the fame you
earn after. The name Temba signifies one of the manifestation of Lord Buddha,
meaning as Temba Ringpoche. The middle name Tsheri signifies as Tshe Ring
meaning Long Life.
Status: The
Nepal boy is believed to have been at Camp 4 and was planning to attempt the
Summit last night.
Others have waited...
Update: Byron Smith, Tim
Rippel and their team of Sherpas are still at Camp II, waiting on the weather as
the latest forecast shows high winds for Friday. The team will head to Camp III
as soon as the weather looks favorable. The earliest date for a second summit
attempt is now Saturday.
The team has been excited
to hear of the other successful summits in the last few days. Thursday morning
around 6:30 a.m. Nepal time, the female leader of the all-Nepalese woman team
reached the top. She then descended down to Camp II. On Wednesday, Canadian Ben
Webster made the summit, the first Canadian to do so this season.
While at Basecamp, team
doctor Virginia Robinson has been spending her time with some of the other docs
and researchers on the mountain. In her latest diary entry she theorizes on
altitude and artificial ageing. For links on the topics she highlights, visit http://cbc.ca/everest2000/dailydispatch/diary000517a.html
Check them out at
www.cbc.ca/everest2000
18.05 The news
from MAI-2000 Lhotse expedition, May 18th... details
-
The Millennium
Seven Summits Expedition www.7-2000.co.uk
lead by
Gavin Bate and John Barry.
Gavin and the team
arrived back in Base camp a couple of hours ago. he is elated to have organized
the team who were the FIRST to summit from the Nepal side this new Millennium. I
can confirm that they fixed the ropes and were the first to summit. The plan to
leave tomorrow and return home on 24th., stopping for an invite to have drinks
with the British Ambassador. Brian
Update: Thursday
18th May
How do you put it into
words ? We've just walked down from Mount Everest to Base Camp. From the top of
Mount Everest. As I came down the last few hundred feet of the Icefall, knowing
that it would be the last time, that we were safe, that the mountain had let us
pass, with our faces burnt and blistered, our legs weak as boiled spaghetti,
coughing still, eyes red-rimmed from the UV at 29,000 feet and still not really
believing what we have just been through, I admit that tears blurred my vision.
All day as we slowly
came off the mountain people coming up stopped and congratulated us, but as we
came into Base Camp the reception was marvelous. People applauding, shaking our
hands, asking us questions, hugging us - it was incredible, emotional,
wonderful.
We, the Brit team of
the Millennium Seven Summits were the first to summit Mount Everest by the South
side in the new Millennium and the news has spread like absolute wildfire. The
satellite phone has not stopped ringing ! Newspapers, radio, television -
everyone is onto us. The British Ambassador is Kathmandu has invited us to
drinks at the Embassy when we get back - God, what to wear ! You cannot imagine
how much we smell, how exhausted we are, how we look !
I intend to give you
all a more detailed account later on about the whole summit push but this is
just a quick summary since I know a lot of people will be waiting to hear first
hand news, although I want to make especial mention of Amanda here now, who has
done a fantastic job of dealing with the avalanche of emails and telephone calls
that have been pouring in since the summit.
John Barry, Polly
Murray, Andy Salter and myself made it to the South Col, possibly the most
inhospitable, wind-swept and potentially dangerous place you could think of at
26,000' and collapsed onto oxygen bottles to rest. Even at this height
everything else looked small. It was amazing but at the same time very tense.
There is absolutely no doubt that here is a place where humans are NOT supposed
to be. We set off at 10.00pm and started up the mountain. Imagine being at just
over 8000 meters and STILL having the height of Ben Nevis to climb, oxygen masks
clamped to freezing faces, bright moonlight lighting the way ( anyone interested
in Buddhist and Tibetan mythology would be interested to know that the full moon
was in our favor with the Gods, and six planets were in alignment - apparently
good - and the Sherpas were happy with the whole karma of the moment !).
We hadn't eaten in two
days, our liquid intake was minimal ( everything was frozen ), nobody had slept
properly in perhaps four or five days but there was this tremendous enthusiasm
to go for it. Despite the fact that so many people had failed, we tried to put
it from our minds. We reached the Balcony at something like 27,500' and other
people turned back. We literally carried on alone up the most incredible airy
ridge, just as the sun rose over the horizon, and right over Tibet an incredible
electrical storm was stunning to watch. Then we noticed a circular halo of cloud
around the moon - harbinger of bad weather; what to do ? turn back ? carry on ?
On both sides of the ridge we stood on, thousands and thousands of feet below
us, the weather coming in and what to do ? Over Lhotse, masses of cloud pouring
over its summit, unbelievable but so frightening. WHAT to do ?
We decide to carry on
and now the terrain becomes steep and mixed. Our goggles and sunglasses are
misting up, freezing; we can't see anything. Thick gloves trying to wipe ice
from lenses. Can't see your feet, have to stretch your neck to look down to see
where you're going, fumbling with the ropes, trying to get huge gloves round
frozen karabiners, listening to your breath in the mask - loud and intrusive -
and now my mask is stuck to my beard !
At 6am, having climbed
through the night, the storm hit us. I just couldn't believe that we were INSIDE
the lenticular cloud that we've been watching, and avoiding, for weeks. The wind
and the spindrift would rip you off that hill if it had been a little stronger.
We struggled on. A Canadian who had turned back said to us today that he watched
us continue up to the summit and couldn't believe we were doing it. 'Tough as
nails' is the comment made on their website apparently !
We decide to carry on
and now the terrain becomes steep and mixed. Our goggles and sunglasses are
misting up, freezing; we can't see anything. Thick gloves trying to wipe ice
from lenses. Can't see your feet, have to stretch your neck to look down to see
where you're going, fumbling with the ropes, trying to get huge gloves round
frozen karabiners, listening to your breath in the mask - loud and intrusive -
and now my mask is stuck to my beard !
At 6am, having climbed
through the night, the storm hit us. I just couldn't believe that we were INSIDE
the lenticular cloud that we've been watching, and avoiding, for weeks. The wind
and the spindrift would rip you off that hill if it had been a little stronger.
We struggled on. A Canadian who had turned back said to us today that he watched
us continue up to the summit and couldn't believe we were doing it. 'Tough as
nails' is the comment made on their website apparently !
The difference in
height between the two summits is 100 meters. Between the two is the Hillary
Step. Looking at it I felt I could throw a stone at the other summit which
looked heavily corniced. Jangbu Sherpa and Pemba Gyaljen went ahead to put in
some rope. Unfortunately Pemba Rinjen had not arrived - in fact he had only got
as far as the Balcony.
Now came the crux for
me - out of the four I was the slowest because of this damned cough which
doubled me over every ten minutes, and the oxygen which Pemba Rinjen was
supposed to have brought up was now not here. Jangbu and Pemba Gyaljen each had
two bottles for us and we each had one full bottle left. We didn't have enough
oxygen to get all four of us up to the other summit and all down. The choice was
obvious - Andy, John and Polly went on ahead to do the last bit and I sent a
message on the radio to say that the team was on the last leg. I stayed for a
while on the South Summit and headed down. I just can't describe how proud I was
to think of having organized and led such a successful summit of Everest, and
the extra pleasure of being first up on the south side was just fantastic. I
feel a tremendous pride to have stood at such a place - there is no place
higher! - and to have watched three such good friends make the final bit. We
have had such incredible notes of support and congratulations - it has been
overwhelming. Thank you to everyone. I hope to give you a slightly better
version of events later on with pictures, so please keep posted to the site.
We leave Base Camp tomorrow and
it will be a mad two day dash to Kathmandu, where I have a couple of days work
to do and we have an evening soiree with the British Ambassador booked, don't
you know ! Then our flight home, 24th or the 25th. Press conferences await.
especially since Polly Murray is now the first Scotswoman to summit Everest and
has become a national celebrity. So, thank you everyone for your support and I
hope you have enjoyed following our small adventures. Myself and Andy have just
a few days at home and then we're off to Alaska to try and climb Mount McKinley,
the highest peak in North America, the next in line for our Seven Summits. Two
down, five to go !
All the
very best, Gavin Bate
Update: WEDNESDAY,
MAY 17th CLOSE TO THE GOOD WEATHER WINDOW
Hugo is resting at the second
camp; at 7:00 p.m. we talked by radio and he is fine. During the next 5 days
probably he will attempt to reach the summit again. The meteorological reports
forecast a window starting from the May 20th. The
next three days we expect strong wind which hinders the ascent; the speed of
that wind will be higher than 40 knots.
http://www.everest2000.net
A lone climber from
Canadian attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden,
and he is from Winnipeg Canada.
Update: "TUESDAY,
MAY 16th: PRESENTLY AT BASE CAMP, MOVING UP ON WEDNESDAY, MAY 17th, FOR SUMMIT
ATTEMPT ON SATURDAY, MAY 20th"
www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com
- Nepalese Women
Summits Sagarmatha
A few more details:
Mt. Everest
8,848m Summitted 18th. May 2000
Miss. Lhakpa Sherpa, 27 years,
leader of the Nepalese Women Millennium Expedition 2000 and resident of Makalu,
has successfully climbed Mt. Everest this morning at 0630 hrs, Thursday, the
18th. May from South East Ridge, together with her 3 companions:
1. Ang Phurba Sherpa, 40 yrs,
from Thamu Village, Namche VDC.
2. Ang Pasang Sherpa, 32 yrs from Thame Village of Namche VDC.
3. Ang Migma Sherpa, 30 yrs, from Hilanjung Village of Namche VDC.
The four summiters spent one
hour at the Everest summit, and then descended to South Col. safely.
They had started the
climb from South Col at 21.30 hrs local time on 17th. May 2000.
Compiled and Reported
by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu, Nepal, 18th May 2000
Please
show them your support on EverestNews.com !
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