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Makalu
2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse
2000: Cho Oyu 2000:
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NEWSFLASH 5/23/2000
9:04AM EST US
- More climbers from
Attempted the Summit from the South last night
"What I know
right now, is that one of the two mountaineers who tried again gave up because
he wasn't feeling good (cough), and the other one joined another expedition to
try to get to the summit. I don't know anything else at the moment. Probably
tomorrow morning (Catalan time) I will have more information and I'll let you
know."
Nica Dalmau Projecte
LaceNet http://www.lacenet.org
More to go for the
Summit including Juanito again, with the problems expect the News to be thin...
Jeppe Stoltz died Saturday May
20, 2000 under dramatic circumstances on Mount Everest.
Jeppe has found the peak of
his climbing carrier in 8500 meter. On his way down after having giving up, he
slipped on the ice and fell about 200 meters and was hurt very badly.
Spanish climbers who saw the
drama in binoculars called other climbers on the mountain to rescue Jeppe. They
rappelled down to him and could see that he was hurt very badly. He was
suffering loudly but they where not able to communicate with him.
It was impossible to hold him
on the small repose and he slipped/fell further down the mountain. How long is
not known but it must be assumed that he was killed instantly.
Jeppe went further up than his
climbing partner Per Bager who stopped at 8400 meters because of winds. Jeppe
stopped at 8500 and returned, but the descent is more dangerous the ascent.
The event took place at 1.30
AM (DK-time) and 5.30 AM (Tibet)
The event must be considered
as an unfortunately accident and there is no one to blame.
In respect of the family, you
are asked not to contact the family. If you are with the press please e-mail us
and we will pass on the contact.
Daily News:
5/23/2000 Report
On Saturday Morning,
there was a terrible storm on Everest. If you recall on the South the Danish
reached the Summit very early and made it down fast before the Storm hit.
The other Expedition, the
Catalan-Spanish expedition: "Tarragona al sostre del mon" had three
members of the expedition (Tarragona 2000 Spanish South Pillar expedition), Jaume
Garrosset, Jacab Salvado and Xavi Aymar, with two Sherpas (Ang Pasng and
Thugtant) leave the Camp 4 at 22.45PM.
At 1 AM Jaume Garrosset left
them due to technical problems with the jumar and the oxygen bottle and
descended. Hours later, both
Sherpas decided to turn back for cold problems with their
feet. Xavi and Jacob decided
to go up although they felt
very tired due to the efforts of the previous day (opening the track in the
Pillar South). The
other Expedition, the Catalan-Spanish expedition: "Tarragona al sostre del
mon" had three members of the expedition (Tarragona 2000 Spanish South
Pillar expedition), Jaume
Garrosset, Jacab Salvado and Xavi Aymar, with two Sherpas (Ang Pasng and
Thugtant) leave the Camp 4 at 22.45PM.
At 1 AM Jaume Garrosset left
them due to technical problems with the jumar and the oxygen bottle and
descended. Hours later, both
Sherpas decided to turn back
for cold problems with their
feet. Xavi and Jacob decided
to go up although they felt
very tired due to the efforts of the previous day (opening the track in the
Pillar South).
EverestNews.com received the
first e-mail from the Danish Expedition:
"This morning at 6.30
local time Mads Granlien and Asmus Norreslet from the Thrane & Thrane Danish
Everest Expedition summited Everest by the south pillar together with two
Sherpas. The Catalan group seems to have returned due to high wind and there was
nobody going from south col
this night.
This morning
at 6.30 local time Mads Granlien and Asmus Norreslet from the Thrane &
Thrane Danish Everest Expedition summited Everest by the south pillar together
with two
Sherpas.
Then later, EverestNews.com
received word the Catalan group had continued...
We e-mailed our Danish
friends, and soon received this:
From the Danish Expedition:
" I have now heard that the
Catalans are climbing upwards, but at 10 they were only at 8500 meters
and the weather is worsening.
One Catalan and their 2 Sherpas have returned. Our
people are safe back in camp 4.
Henrik Jessen Expedition Leader
So with the Danish back at
Camp 4, the Catalans were still going up !
Concern broke out for those
who knew what was going on.
The story continues: At the
altitude of 8600meters. Jacob Salvado was really tired and he
could not continue. Then, the
head of the expedition, Joan Tomas, told Xavi Aymar to come back but he
said that he felt able to go up and that he wanted to do the summit alone. The
rest of the members gave support to him with the radio because he seemed very
sure of himself.
The weather did not improve
and Xavi Aymar started to feel
really tired. At 13.45 PM (they gave themselves a maxim hour to arrive the
summit at 2PM) The weather did not improve and Xavi Aymar started to feel really
tired. At 13.45 PM (they gave themselves a maxim hour to arrive the summit at
2PM) Xavi
Aymar decided to come back when he was just at 100 meters from the summit.
He was alone at 8740 meters
but without hours enough to come back safely.
On the way back Jacob was
waiting for him so he helped him to arrive to the Camp 4 and there they met
Jaume. Now, they are trying to recover and they will pass the night in the
Camp4. "It was for only 100 meters... They are safe."
- On the North, the climbers
were not so lucky:
As a climber I would never go
to Mount Everest, as a climber I lure for desolate and lonely arctic mountains
but. the myth of Everest is even for a non-Everest believer too strong! The myth
of Mount Everest attracts me as an editor of the Dutch adventure internet
magazine Xtreme Magazine http://www.xtreme.nl.
As a virtual visitor to this arena I was this weekend with a Dutch oxygenless
summit attempt by Hans van der Meulen via the North Ridge very anxious to get
news from the Third Pole. When news came in today Monday it was news with
serious drama.
Source Panorama-expedition
website, courtesy Rolf Stallinga and Reinoud Sluiters
Saturday at 01:15 hours at
camp 4 (8300 meters) Arjan Dingemans gives up his summit chance to stay with and
take care of Renι Rooijakkers who has altitude illness. Arjan is a medical
student and makes a brave decision. Henk Wesselius leaves with 12 foreign
climbers for the summit attempt. At 07:00 hours, above the First Step Henk
decides because of the strong wind to turn around. Above the group of climbers
to whom Henk belonged a drama is unfolding itself. Six Spaniards who are in
front get bad frostbite. They have to return without going the summit. But even
worse is the fate of the Danish climber Jeppe. He stumbles and falls down 600
meters. He is lying on a snow field and is bleeding very bad but he is STILL
ALIVE. A climber (not stated who goes to the injured Danish climber, but a very
courageous man) notes this. When he wants to grab the wounded climber the victim
slides down. He is sliding to his death 1500 meters lower at the glacier. 08:30
hours Henk is safely back in camp 4 but going down he was very frightened. Lucky
enough he has no frostbite. With Rene Rooijakkers it is going better. They
decide to descend to camp 2 but Rene and Arjan only make it to camp 3.
Hans van der Meulen who is
trying for the second time to make the first Dutch oxygenless attempt (first
attempt in 1986 by Ronald Naar who reached 8500 meter from South Col) decides to
turn around also at Sunday. Hans comes without oxygen to the First Step. Hans is
descending to camp 3 to descend further with Rene and Arjan. The team is
cooperating together very good. They were not lucky and have to abandon now
their expedition. The big Dutch prize on Everest is still waiting: first Dutch
on Everest without oxygen. Who will take this prize?
Regards, Ton Biesemaat
Xtreme Magazine http://www.xtreme.nl
- To add a little more, the Asian-Trekking
International Everest Expedition consisted of:
a. Studer
Wilfried and wife (Austrians)
b. Per Bager
and jeppe Stoltz (Denmark)
c. Gheorghe
Dijmarescu (USA)
d. Hans Goger
(Austria)
plus possibly others.
These climbers were climbing independently.
EverestNews.com knows
that Gheorghe Dijmarescu was fine and at ABC yesterday.
EverestNews.com has
been told, the Spanish Expedition lead by the great Juan Oiarzabal was at the
accident site, reported to us as at the second step. It is still unclear who
bravely climbed down to attempt to save the climber.
The conditions were a
white-out as the horrible storm moved around Everest without warning. It took
the climbers a long time to get back to ABC. Frankly, many of the others are
lucky. EverestNews.com was told the family was notified Monday morning US time.
- Henry Todd's Expedition
Members:
Mike and Kristy Woodmansee
were at Camp 2 moving up to Camp3 , hoping for a break in the weather...
Other Expeditions:
Update:
Moving up for their Summit Attempt any day.
Update: Byron
Smith is back at Basecamp. In
his Monday broadcast he shared the first video of the climb down from the
summit. The winds on high prevented him from recording on the very top. Still
photos, which he took with slide film will be developed after he returns home.
Check his site for all the details...
- Asian-Trekking
supporting the Nepalese Women Millennium Everest Expedition 2000
Summit ! and moving
out...
Status: See below for all we
know...
- An experienced Danish
Expedition: Thrane & Thrane sponsorship of the first all Danish Mount
Everest Expedition
Several Updates:
Drama
on Everest.
Newsletter - Danes conquer
South Face of Everest.
May 19 - On the way to the summit.
The BigE-expedition
and its progress can be followed at Thrane & Thranes website: http://www.tt.dk/everest/intro.html
- A Spanish Everest
Expedition: Everest 2000 www.lacenet.org
You will need to Join (in upper left hand corner)
Status:
They told us yesterday they were going for the Summit last night.
Update: Summits on Monday !
Manuel Gonzalez Diaz, Ivan
Jara Muriel, and another reached the summit early on Monday !
EverestNews.com will
publish their reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more
will be on http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
A lone climber from
Canadian attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden,
and he is from Winnipeg Canada. Below is a picture of him:
Update:
I just spoke with Jeff this morning. He did not make the summit due to an upper
respiratory tract infection. He made it as far as camp 3. He tried several times
to go higher, but his health took priority and he came back down. He is in
Khumjung right now and is returning home as soon as possible. The other members
of his team are on their way down also and did not summit. Team members:
Saeed Toossi, Anna Czerwinska, Bill Zachary, and Carlos from Spain. Will you
please update the Everest News site with this info? Thank you. Sarah Moskaluk
Winnipeg, MB
www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com
EverestNews.com discussed
their plans with them on Monday. Christine Boskoff, still wants to Summit and was believed
to be at Camp 2 or above on Monday. Sounds like Peter Habeler might be calling
it a year.
For
all the May 2000 News
For
all the April 2000 News