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 Daily News: 5/3/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: Updated

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000:Updated Annapurna 2000  

NEWSFLASH 9:55AM EST

  • Andalucia Everest 2000: Another Accident

On the 30th of April, one of the Expedition Andalusia Everest 2000's members suffered an accident.  This happened while the expedition had arranged to descend from BC to a nearby town to get a few days rest before attacking the summit.  On the 28th of April, the climbers installed C 4 at the height necessary to undertake the final attack on the summit.  After spending several days at over 6500 meters installing the camps, all the climbers returned BC to rest for the final summit push.  Some members stayed at BC while others decided to descend to the closest town to recover.  It was then that Amparo Ortega, expedition member who is both a climber and doctor, slipped on a strangely formed rock.  She fell and broke her Tibia and Fibula as well as her right ankle.   The news was radioed to BC where arrangements were made for an evacuation helicopter.  The Andalusian climber is currently at the hospital in Katmandu where she will undergo surgery on 1 May.  The climber spoke directly with people in Spain and sounds okay but is disappointed that the expedition is over for her.  She will be back in Spain in a few days.  The rest of the expedition is continuing to rest until 6 May so that on either 7 or 8 May, there will be the first attack on the summit by three of the climbers.  Thus, the Andalusian flag will fly on the summit on the 11th or 12th of May.  BC will be in constant contact with Spain during the night of the final summit push. 

EverestNews.com will publish their reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures, and more will be on http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm

  • It is somewhat strange with the record number of reporters at BC, that this helicopter evacuation has not been reported.
  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: Byron Smith, Tim Rippel and the team's Sherpas have spent another day at Base camp. Although the forecast still looks good, the actual weather doesn't seem to match the projections. Last night high winds up to 70 miles per hour (112 km/h) sent flying snow circling the mountain but the forecast showed much lower winds for Camp III. Byron says they have to rely on observations on the mountain to see what the weather is like. 

This morning winds have died down and the plan is to send Sherpas to Camp II on Thursday with Byron and Tim following Friday. According to Byron's previous time schedule, that would make Sunday night the time for a  summit attempt. Naturally, things could still change between now and then. 

For dispatches, video updates, background information, interactive maps and more on check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

Daily News: 5/3/2000 Report

  • At least two expeditions have told us off the record: "The race is on." The details on these first attempts are probably going to be hard to come by, as climbers compete for the first to Summit Everest in the Year 2000.
  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: The Sherpas on Byron's team have come down from Camp II to rest at Basecamp. Byron and Tim Rippel are also staying put at Base camp until the condition of the Lhotse Face has stabilized, there is no need for them to move up to Camp II now. Byron says this only sets the plan back a day or two. 

For dispatches, video updates, background information, interactive maps and more on check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Everest North Side: 

Dutch Panaroma Everest Expedition Leader: Hans van der Muelen (Former K2 Summiter)

The Dutch have been to CII and are going for the summit on 10 May.  A few are sick.  One hasn't left base camp and another has infections and has been to ABC.  Another is moving really slowly and has just made it to the North Col. 

http://www.panorama-everest-2000.nl/inhoud/index2.html 

  • Everest Spring 2000 North Side:

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest.  

Juan is back on the move up the mountain. 

We are hearing that from May 10th forward the teams on the North Side are planning summit attempts.  At last report Juan's expedition was having a great time in a snow ball fight with some other expeditions ! Sounds like everyone is getting along. 

  • The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry join the EverestNew.com team. EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos from this expedition. Please see below for information on them and their dispatches from Everest.

    The Millennium Challenge team will be climbing Everest in an attempt to make the first British ascent in the year 2000. The team of seven is made up of John Barry and Gavin Bate, Andy Salter, Polly Murray , Chris Tiso, George Barlow and Michele Santilhano. There will also be a back-up team of communications experts and cooks as well as the complement of high altitude Sherpas. 

    Gavin Bate http://adventurealternative.com

Dispatch: Everest Update - 30th April 2000

The climbing team is still down the valley resting at Lobuche, waiting for the weather to improve. The jet stream is still affecting the top of the mountain with 80-90 knot winds. We can hear the winds roaring even down at Base Camp. This has stopped any of the teams from reaching the South Col, the closest yet being our Sherpas who helped fix the ropes to within 200 meters of the South Col nearly a week ago. The Sherpas tried to reach the South Col two days ago, but had to leave their load of 16 oxygen bottles at Camp 3 on the Lhotse face, due to the high winds - the risk of frostbite due to wind-chill is very high. We are now waiting for a weather forecast, so that the Sherpas can decide whether to go up to Camp 2 tomorrow morning or not.

The climbing team expect to come back up to Base Camp on Tuesday, and they will then move back up the mountain for their summit bid later in the week, weather permitting. There are now several teams in a similar position to us, just waiting for the weather to improve.

At Base Camp we have a steady stream of visiting trekkers come to check on the progress of the team and to send messages home, either by sat phone or email. Many of the climbers from other teams also use these facilities, or simply drop in for a chat and a cup of tea. There is a very effective grapevine at Base Camp, sharing information about the conditions on the mountain and the weather.

There is quite a buzz about Base Camp, now that summit time approaches!

Dispatch: We crossed the border into China with 16 people. Now at base camp we await the Yak bells, each a small church bell attached to four broad hoods. Everyone’s feeling chipper after two nights camping at 4,000m. We moved to Chinese base camp at 4,700m on Friday April 28th, just a few days ahead of schedule. The hills rise to 5,500m above us, moving away to the broad river valley. Yesterday (Saturday April 28th), we hiked up the ridge to the top of one of these.

Mornings are sunny, clear azure blue skies, tan brown hills, grey rock river bottoms and sandy flowing rivers, ripe with glacial salt. Overhead a pair of Lammergeiers with wing spans stretching for 3 meters, soar on the wind. Frost covers the tents in the morning, by midday the down-valley winds whistle through camp. Today a little snow falls out of the clouds on Cho Oyu. The mountain dominates the southern horizon, rising over 3 vertical kilometers above us.

Tomorrow, we start our work week with a hike up the valley accompanied by 38 yaks and 14 yak drivers. We follow the ancient trading route leading to Nang Pa La, a high pass that crosses over to Nepal. For a second day of hiking, we’ll take this to base camp at 5,700m.

Meal times we’ve had apple pancakes, for lunch we’ve had tomato, onion and cheese toasted sandwiches. For dinner we’ve been enjoying spaghetti, meat and veggie momos. This contingent has especially enjoyed the Heinz baked beans! Our appetites indicate that everyone is well-acclimatized with everyone enjoying 12 hours sleep last night. We are all looking forward to moving higher on the mountain.

Robert Anderson, Expedition Leader.

For all the information on this Expedition and other Cho Oyu News see our Cho Oyu 2000 Page.

  • Other News:

Trento, in the heart of the Italian Alps, will be the meeting point of Himalayan alpinism for a week: the 48th edition of the international Film Festival of the Mountains is dedicated to Himalayan climbing history and ten of the twelve men who made the history will be there.

Guest star will be sir Edmund Hillary, first Everest conqueror. Also attending will be Carlos Carsolio, Erhard Loretan, Andrej Zawada, Krzysztof Wielicki, Tomaz Humar, Fausto De Stefani, Kurt Diemberger and Soro Dorotei.

Along with the celebration, the Festival will show a retrospective of Himalayan expeditions films:  from "Victory on Annapurna" by Marcel Ichac (France, 1954), to "Nanga Parbat 1953" by Hans Ertl (Germany), "K2" by  Marcello Baldi and Mario Fantin (1955); "Makalu 8500" by Jean Franco (France); "Everest Conquest" by Tom Stobart (Great Britain, 1957) to "Manaslu" by Kajiro Yamamoto (Japan, 1957). 

  • Other News:

7000m Peaks: Summitted: Mt. Baruntse (7,129m):  John Baker (Leader), Kevin Drake, Nick Taylor,  Alister Stevens, Stuart Simpson, Kami Sherpa, Pemba Dorji Sherpa, Kame Sherpa and Da Chhempba Sherpa of "British Baruntse Expedition" have successfully climbed Baruntse (7129m) from South East Ridge on the 31st March at 12.00 noon. 

6000m Peaks:

Abandoned: Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m): Mr. Pasquale V. Scaturro, the Leader and all  his team members of "2000 Ama Dablam NFB Expedition" have abandoned the expedition on 14th of April reaching the height of 6300m due to heavy snow, heavy wind and bad health condition of one member. They were climbing Ama Dablam from the South West Ridge. 

Binita & Sangita @ Himalaya Center / Kathmandu /Nepal 

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

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