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 Daily News: 5/8/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. 

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000: 

Manaslu 2000Kangchenjunga 2000: Annapurna 2000:  

NEWSFLASH 5/8/2000 3:20PM EST US 

  • Everest South Side:

Climbers are going back up, including some guided climbers on commercial expeditions. Some climbers are still at Camp 2.

For the climbers just now leaving BC, frankly, this appears like very optimistic plans. But who knows, they might get lucky.

  • What is a commercial Expedition? Some have asked.

EverestNews.com defines a commercial expedition as an expedition where a company is in the business of running Expeditions. Therefore, people pay the business to go on the expedition that is run as a business. 

EverestNews.com does not define expeditions such Thrane as "commercial" because they are not selling expeditions. Yes they are a "commercial company".

That is how EverestNews.com defines "commercial expeditions" in short.

  • Canadians

FYI, I did a chat with Ben Webster via satellite phone from base camp today -- about 10 p.m. Monday night Everest time. He was critical of the weather forecasting service they've been getting via Henry Todd, said he hopes it is right now. Latest forecast is for a break in the weather on the 11th and 12th. Webster's team and three others plan to attempt to summit on those days, weather permitting. Transcript is here http://www.canoe.ca/CNEWSNewsmakers/000508_webster_tr.html 

Art

Henry who is not known to talk to the media, would say something like, That is why we call it a forecast ! Henry is a big boy...

Noora left Camp 3 at 6 a.m., Pavel 2 hours later. At 12 a.m. during the radio contact  Noora reported about horrible cold and wind. Later it was seen from base camp with telescope that one climber summited the top. It was unclear who it was exactly but nobody was on the mountain except them. The Finnish leader Jorma Alanen waited for them in Camp 3 for 28 hours without any success. No all the rest of expedition with a help of other expeditions are looking for the party. 

The missing Russian climber is Pavel Bonadysenko, born 1962, deputy director of the Siberian Institute of the Law, Economics and Management, Irkutsk city.

NEWSFLASH 5/8/2000 11:59AM EST US 

  • Everest North Side:

Reliable source are reporting to EverestNews.com that Hans van der Meulen will go on Tuesday from Camp 3 at 7900 meters to Camp 4 at around 8300 meters. If weather holds will go on Tuesday from Camp 3 at 7900 meters to Camp 4 at around 8300 meters. If weather holds he will go solo with no fixed ropes, on Wednesday without O2 to the Summit

  • What a great first up in 2000 on Everest that would be under these conditions!
  • Check in late tonight EST for our next update, and have a great Monday. Please keep the climbers and their families (see below) on Cho Oyu in your prayers.

NEWSFLASH 5/8/2000 10:36AM EST US 

  • Everest North Side:

Great Climbers are calling the last two days the worst experience in the mountains in their lives. Many are still at Camp 2, but are clearly dejected.

The India climbers, Spanish, and many others are at Camp 2. If the weather breaks looks for their spirits to pick up. These are the times climbing Everest becomes a spiritual experience for many climbers. For many of the new climbers the risk is now present. Many will give up, some will continue.

Everest is winning so far in the Year 2000.

  • Everest South Side:

At least one team has stayed at Camp 2. If the weather break they will have a jump on the others. When the weather breaks, look for the climbers to go in mass for the Summit.

NEWSFLASH 5/8/2000 9:56AM EST US 

  • Cho Oyu 2000

Update 5/8/2000: Her aim was to ski down from the top with partner Mr. Jukka Rasanen. However, Rasanen was forced to retreat from the mountain due to symptoms of cerebral edema. This happened 10 days ago. Ms. Toivonen continued according to plan. 

There are still 5 Finns on Cho Oyu. They try to find out what has happened. The organizer of the expedition is Ms. Marina Ershova. 

For more information check our Cho Oyu Spring 2000 Page

  • An Everest Spring 2000 North Side NEWSFLASH will in the next couple of hours.

Daily News: 5/8/2000 Report

  • Everest South Side: Everyone trying to come down ! Weather is horrible. Byron & Chris made the right decision. 

  • Updates: Some asked why they can't find the updates found on EverestNews.com on the other sites. Many times climbers e-mail EverestNews.com directly. Therefore, today for example, there are several updates/reports that you will not find on the expedition's site. But we always add the expedition's link. 

  • Everest South Pillar

An experienced Danish Expedition: Thrane & Thrane sponsorship of the first all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. 

Update: News here is that nearly all teams are withdrawing at the moment due to extremely bad weather. We had a weather report yesterday that said it should be reasonably the next two days. I was on my way to camp 3 on the south pillar, 7500 meter, this morning. It had been storming in the night but without snowfall on the other hand there was plenty of snow to move around. Snow-waterfalls were coming down the Southwest face of Everest, quite impressive, but a bad sign for the south pillar as well. The sky only had a few clouds when i left camp 2, but before I reached the bergsschrund at app. 6850 meters the sky had totally covered and the clouds were coming down fast. Before I could start climbing the first snow started falling. This was at 7.58 this morning (May 7.). 

Early afternoon I went down to Base camp together with our Sherpas. It was still snowing at this time and there was around 20-30 cm. in the western cum. Visibility sometimes 100 meters. There is a lot more snow this year than we had in '96. Strange as the winter and the first part of the spring was very dry.

I'll be back with other news soon.

Best regards

Bo Belvedere Christensen 

Check their site for many new updates: 

May 05 - Camp 3.
May 04 - Camp 3 is established.
May 03 - High winds at Base Camp.
May 02 - Bad weather again.

The BigE-expedition and its progress can be followed at Thrane & Thrane’s website: http://www.tt.dk/everest/intro.html

Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

Update: "Hi this is Chris Boskoff calling from Everest Base Camp on May 07.  We tried for the summit last night but we were turned back due to high winds.  We descended to Base Camp and Nazir and Kili are safely at camp two right now. This is just a quick note as tomorrow I'll have a longer dispatch with everything that has happened the last few days. This is Chris Boskoff signing off and there'll be more tomorrow. Bye.

  • The Germans and the Austrians: Chomolungma by fair means without oxygen.

In the German/Austrian tradition these climbers will attempt Everest from the North without oxygen and by fair means. The climbers are Bastel Haller, Gustav Weinberger, Dr, Jurgen Zapf, Barbara Hirschbichler, Rudi Roozen, Georg Simair, and Mag. Thomas Lammie. 

Update (North Side): Hello again, We got 2 mails from base camp so far and i try to sort out the most important things for you.

They wrote about their trip from Kathmandu to Tibet and the problems they had getting a jeep, etc. 

"We are at the Base camp!!!!!

The Everest in the background, still about 15 km away, still looks impressive and high, although we ourselves are already at 5100m. There's about 20 more expeditions, some of them only 1 or 2 persons with a couple of Sherpas, but the glacier bed is wide and everybody finds space. Our camp is the closest to the glacier, which means the closest to the ABC and we have clean water because there's nobody above us.

We are in a great mood and happy to be here. We're relaxed about what might happen. If we get to the summit - great. If not we were able to be here and feel that. The mountain looks impressive. It doesn't look that steep at all. Except the last part, where you have to walk on the highest part ... is a pretty long distance. We can even see the first and second step. Great!"

Easter (Sunday) shining, blue sky. They were having a relaxed rest day waiting for their yaks, packing, doing their medical tests. The tests prove that they are in very good shape, well acclimatizes and they are happy that their plan of acclimatizing in the Alps and the green valleys in Nepal instead of spending several weeks in the rough atmosphere of the Base camp worked out.

Then the next mail from May 1st:

The yaks didn't come the day they where expected to. Another rest day. When they finally arrived they had far too much weight and it took quite an effort to convince their cook that they didn't necessarily have to live like lords up in the camps... after a 4 to 5 hours walk they got to the intermediate camp where they didn't find it that easy to find space for their tents.

The next day they had an early start. "The scenery is becoming more interesting. Sharp ice-towers and -needles, 20 to 30 meters of compromised ice, are standing in the stony landscape. Fascinating. And then the early morning-light, fantastic."

They find a pretty crowded ABC, probably 40 tents and to built up their own tents they have to build their own little platforms into the ice. The next day starts with a medical test again (like every day) and according to the results two of the team make their way back down to the Base camp while the others spent another night up in ABC before they return to the BC as well. Due to their tests they are acclimatized enough to build their next two camps (I and II) within the next attempt, then go back down to the Base camp for another couple of rest days and give it a first try for the summit after. The 1st of may, when they wrote the mail the weather was bad for the first time since they've been there. Due to they're new schedule they should have a rest day in the ABC today. I'll let you know when I get another message, Best wishes Silke

  • Jeffrey Warden

A lone climber from Canadian attempts the Summit from the South Side. His name is Jeffrey Warden, and he is from Winnipeg Canada. 

Dispatch: Hi one and all, as you have probably guessed, the weather here is not co-operating thus I have just arrived back at base camp. I had planned for a summit on the 8th, however, this has changed as no one has yet to make it to the summit and fix ropes. That being said, the weather is expected to change in the next few days, i.e. the jet stream will rise, and many are lining up to take advantage. As I'm sure some of you have noticed from Byron Smith on CBC, he tried just today, however, realize the weather was not suitable to leave the South Col. As for my latest plan, my Sherpa suggests we leave Base Camp here on the 9th for a 12th summit bid. As far as I can tell, this will work jet stream wise, but we shall see. My greatest concern at this time is the fact that I contracted food poisoning about a week ago, and have been working on getting my strength back. Today, returning from camp II I felt much better and believe I am on my way to full strength recovery. Other than that, not much else to report other than there are allot of anxious folks here at base camp and things should start to happen soon. This may be my last mail until I return from the summit as I will be away from the sat phone.

I can't wait to get home where the temperature stays constant for more than 10 minutes. You go from 40 Celsius midday in your tent, to -40 at night. The food's not bad when it doesn't poison you, and the Sherpas are very friendly. Base camp is very interesting as they have a international soccer game every day. I guess that's about it for now, will advise when I can.   Jeff 

www.pangeaextreme.homestead.com 

  • Everest North Side: 

http://www.everest.home.nl/ Frits Vrijlandt and Steven Le Poole, will attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge. They are part of a non-commercial British/Dutch expedition.

Update: Frits and Steven have been to Camp 2 and above. Waiting is the plan.

  • The Millennium Seven Summits Expedition www.7-2000.co.uk  lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry.  EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos from this expedition. Please see below for information on them and their dispatches from Everest. The team of seven is made up of John Barry and Gavin Bate, Andy Salter, Polly Murray , Chris Tiso, George Barlow and Michele Santilhano.  

Update: As far as we know, there have been no major incidents here this year. Unless you count the climber pulling a ligament in his knee playing football at base camp?! Brian 

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: The Everest 2000 team has climbed down from Camp IV under "horrendous conditions." Byron Smith, cameraman Tim Rippel and their team of Sherpas arrived safely at Camp II Sunday after a descent in a near white-out. "We couldn't see at all in front of us, as we were descending down past the Geneva Spur, down through the Yellow Band and down to Camp III," Byron said over the radio to Base camp, patched through to CBC Newsworld via satellite phone. The descent was prompted by severe high winds Saturday night which postponed the team's summit attempt. As soon as they're rested and it is safe to descend the rest of the way, they'll climb to Base camp and rest for 4 to 5 days before making another attempt. 

Check their site for the radio calls and more. http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • French Canadians on the North Side (Tibet) of Everest

Very little news on these Canadians since the accident involving a Nepali member of the Everest Millenium team. Last news they are going between Camp 2 and ABC. www.everestmillenium.qc.ca (French Canadian / Quebec team ). 

  • Everest Spring 2000: A 14 year boy

A 14 year boy, Temba Tshering Sherpa, plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000 from the Nepal side of the mountain. Needless to say, he would be the youngest to Summit Everest if successful. Temba Tsheri Sherpa born in 06/05/85 is climbing Mt. Everest. Temba got inspiration for climbing Mt. Everest from his father and the fairy-tale he used to hear from friends and relatives about the success of climbing Mt. Everest and the fame you earn after. The name Temba signifies one of the manifestation of Lord Buddha, meaning as Temba Ringpoche. The middle name Tsheri signifies as Tshe Ring meaning Long Life. 

Status: The Nepal boy has not attempted the Summit. He is expected to move up with the others when the next Summit window occurs. 

  • Gabriel Filippi

Gabriel heath problems has been tough this year. At last report his goal was just to make camp 3 this year. Wait until next year Gabriel, Everest will still be there !

http://www.everesty2k.com/en.html

  • India http://www.indiaeverest2000.com/  

The climbers from India have been moving their way up the mountain. Since the climbers plan to sleep (at least one of them) on the Summit of Everest we don't expect them to be in the first group this year. However, the India climbers are know to go early, so one never knows.

North East Ridge Spring 2000: Ken does not climb Everest this time. He goes for the cleaning of Everest, around 6000M-8000M. He is planning to get about 2 tons of garbage from the mountain. The main sponsor is SONY CORP.

Ken, who is the youngest to achieve the Seven Summits (well at least one version), is winning many fans this year for his clean up efforts on the North Side. The climbers are saying he is doing a great . He is using Sherpa climbers from Asian-Trekking.

As we understand it, He will NOT be attempting the Summit, nor will his Sherpa climbers. 

  • Everest Spring 2000: Everest Dream

Saeed have sent many updates in. Check his site for all the interesting details. www.everestdream.com

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