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Mountain Madness

Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

Nazir Sabir - The Owner and Director of Nazir Sabir Expeditions. 8000 meter peaks: K2 Summit with E. Otani (1981), G-II with Reinhold Messner (1982), Broad Peak with Reinhold Messner (1982), G-I (Hidden Peak),  Expedition Leader for Pakistan's Golden Jubilee Everest Expedition (1997). 

EverestNews.com will be posting full dispatches sent from Christine Boskoff as they make their way in to Everest Base Camp, establish the various camps up the mountain and the final ascent to the summit.

Dispatch One: Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest Base Camp April 10, 2000: 

It is approximately 1:00 PM on this beautiful day in base camp. Yesterday a Llama from a village down below performed the puja ceremony, blessing the team and the equipment in preparation for their  ascent of the mountain.  This is a traditional Buddhist ceremony which was followed by a great party with massive consumption of chang, a local alcoholic beverage.  Peter Habeler has earned the nickname "Mr. Chang"!  Ray Yeritsen will be delivering 2 liters of chang to Peter at Camp I tomorrow. 

So far, Peter, Nazir Sabir, Ray and I have made it through the icefall. Both Camps I & II have been established and the climbing Sherpas are real busy getting things ready for our climb. Peter and I have both slept at Camp I and Peter is returning there today for another night.  The Canadian team, Ray and I will again ascend to Camp I tomorrow.  We plan to continue on to Camp II and return to Base camp in a few days after acclimatizing. 

The weather has been great and everyone is well.  Until later, this is Christine signing off. 

Dispatch Two: 

Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest Base Camp: 

It is a sunny Sunday at base camp.  Today is my 3rd rest day in camp and the fourth rest day for Peter Habeler.  Ray Yeritsen will be returning to base camp from Camp II after four days on the mountain.  Our Canadian crew, led by Ben Webster, will leave for Camp I today.  Three climbing Sherpas are at Camp II and will continue to Camp III to complete the process of fixing lines for the ascent. 

On Monday, April 17th, Peter, Nazir Sabir and I will climb to Camp II.  Peter and I hope to continue on to Camp III on Tuesday if we are feeling well. 

There was a big meeting last night with all the expedition leaders to determine who was responsible for establishing fixed lines above Camp II. So far, Mountain Madness has been fixing the lines between Camp II and Camp III.  The leaders also addressed the order of approach for summiting the mountain.  Peter and I are in line to be one of the first summit teams this year.  We are expecting to summit around the end of April if all goes well.  Our chances at this time a really great! 

Everyone is well and really enjoying base camp life.  The weather has been excellent.  Until next time.... 

Christine Boskoff

Dispatch Three: I had a call from Christine Boskoff last night from Everest base camp.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear from her.  She reports that the team are doing well.  She had spent the last few days resting at base camp.  It was early morning in Nepal and they were getting their first "real" snow storm since arriving at base camp.  Weather permitting, they will once again ascend to Camp III for another night of acclimatization.  She and Peter Habeler have both successfully slept at Camp III.  If all goes well they hope to make their summit bid at the end of this week or next.  I know everyone here will be keeping their fingers crossed! 

Our Mountain Madness guide, Ant Chapin, returned from Kathmandu last week having completed the support trek with a dozen clients.  From his report it seems that the group had a great time trekking in towards the base camp with six members actually spending some time at the base camp with the climbers. Cary Craig notified me that Christine had reported her name incorrectly from base camp and she hoped we could fix it so her friends would know that she had made it.  Well, Ant says she not only made it to base camp but in great shape! 

The support trekkers have been a real asset to our team.  Our first trek left the US on March 21st.  Two of our teammates, Lynn Snow and Brent Sullivan, agreed to take a duffle of food and equipment to Kathmandu to support our climbing team.  On the third trip which left on Saturday, April 22, Chip Kessler took a duffle with additional clothing for four of our Sherpas and special foods for our climbers.  We certainly appreciate all their support.  Our final group of support trekkers leave on April 27th. 

In this group we have one very special individual.  Her name is Toni Lugger.  She actually signed up for the trip over two years ago.  Nothing like goal setting!  She has been a terrific model for setting goals and achieving her dream.  She has visited her eleven year old son Nicolas' school, Pompano Beach Middle School and Rickards Middle School to give presentations about going after what you want in life regardless of your gender.  Everyone who knows Toni knows that going to Everest Base Camp has been a life long dream.  She lies in bed at night wondering what it will feel like to finally accomplish her dream.  She tells me she will feel like a million bucks....No, much more!  I feel certain that when Toni reaches the base camp our climbing team will welcome her positive energy and will appreciate the message she has delivered to the young folks in the US. Good luck Toni! 

Until we hear from Christine....

Patty Flanagan Mountain Madness, Inc

Dispatch: Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest Base Camp April 25: 

It began to snow here yesterday at base camp.  It is truly our first winter (spring) storm.  On the 24th the Sherpas came down off the mountain with many of the climbers.  The rest of the climbers descended to base camp today.  On Monday we had to say good bye to one of our teammates, Ray Yeritsen.  He has sustained a back injury that will prevent him from going to the summit. 

We got a weather report yesterday predicting a couple days of bad weather then clearing on Wednesday.  However, the winds are expected to be picking up.  We are not sure when we will be going for our summit attempt. A recap of the past weeks events:  on April 17th Peter Habeler and I climbed to Camp II and slept.  On the 18th we went up high on the Lhotse Face, returned to Camp II to sleep.  On the 19th we remained at Camp II and went up to Camp III on the 20th and spent the night.  April 21st brought us back to base camp where we have been resting.  We will continue to rest at base camp until the snow lets up. 

Until then.... Christine

Dispatch: Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest base camp for April 26th:  Tomorrow, April 27th, Peter Habeler and I will climb to Camp 2.  We will be picking up weather reports from base camp and if the reports are favorable we will begin our attempt on the summit.  If the winds continue to be high we will stay at Camp II until the weather improves. 

Rolf will be sending reports from base camp while we are up on the mountain. Until later..... 


Dispatch: This is Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest Basecamp on May 1st: It is early evening here at base camp and we just polished off a terrific pizza!  Last Saturday, April 29th, all of our climbing Sherpas, Peter Habeler and I returned to base camp from Camp II due to very high winds. 

Because of the high winds we were unable to continue on to Camp III.  We have had a weather report and there appears to be a window of opportunity opening and remaining open until May 5th.  Our climbing Sherpas left today for Camp II.  They will go up and establish Camp IV tomorrow on the south col at 25,919". 

Kili Sherpa, the Director of Operations in the Mountain Madness Nepal office, will be attempting the summit with our team!  Following is our strategy as we make our summit bid.  On Tuesday, May 2, Peter, Nazir Sabir, Kili and I will head up to Camp II.  On Wednesday we will go to Camp III, Thursday Camp IV and if all goes well, the SUMMIT on Friday, May 5th.  We will be the first team on the summit this year.  We will have four climbing Sherpas with us and will be fixing lines above the balcony. 

We hope to be successful but if not, we have plenty of time to make another attempt.  We will be in touch as we move up the mountain. 

Update: "Hi this is Chris Boskoff calling from Everest Base Camp on May 07.  We tried for the summit last night but we were turned back due to high winds. We descended to Base Camp and Nazir and Kili are safely at camp two right now. This is just a quick note as tomorrow I'll have a longer dispatch with everything that has happened the last few days. This is Chris Boskoff signing off and there'll be more tomorrow. Bye.


Update: Chris Boskoff dispatch received 8pm on May 12

Hi, Chris Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness at Everest Base Camp on May 12. Here's an overview of the last few days On May 05 Peter, Nazir and I climbed to C3. In the middle of the night Peter had some problems with his breathing and went down to  BC at 5 in the morning. Nazir, Dorje, (unclear), Kili Sherpa and I continued to climb to the South Col and C4on May 06 It was a windy and stormy night at C4, there was also a Canadian team there trying for the summit. Due to storms our team stayed in our tent. The Canadian team and their Sherpas (unclear) and decided it was hopeless. 

Our team descended at 7 am on May 07 in whiteout with high winds. Dorje and I broke trail from C3 to BC unburying fixed lines. Dorje and I went to BC The others stayed at C2 for the night. Nazir and Kili decided to descend to BC the next day on May 08. 

Today Peter and I spent 4 days at BC.  Today we plan to plan to climb to C2 and try for our next summit attempt. We'll try to do dispatches.  Peter Habeler says hi to everyone.  

That's it from Chris Boskoff. 

Update 5/13/200: Update 5/13/200: Update 5/13/200: Christine has reported at 5:20 Nepal time on May 13, that she and Peter Habeler were at Camp 3. They will be leaving for Camp 4 at 3.00AM on the 14th. 

Update: Christine was at Camp 4 last night in Nepal (the 14th) moving strongly. Leaving fro the Summit at 11:00 PM Nepal Time for a May15th planned Summit date. 

Our last contact with MountainMadness was, "Christine is moving strongly and headed for the Summit."

Stay Tuned... We will update as News Arrives...

Dispatch: Patty Flanagan reporting from the Mountain Madness office in Seattle: 

I just got a call from Christine Boskoff at base camp.  Nazir Sabir and Ben Webster made the summit at 8:00 am (Nepal time) 5/17.  Nazir is the FIRST Pakstani to summit Mt. Everest.  Christine and Peter Habeler are resting at base camp.  Peter is feeling much better and will decide later today whether or not he will be making another summit attempt.  Christine will be heading back up to Camp II on Thursday, Camp III on Friday, Camp IV on Saturday and hoping to summit on Sunday, 5/21.  She will be using supplemental oxygen at Camp IV and on to the summit.  She has made 3 attempts so far without Os and it has taken it's toll.  She currently holds the record for most visits to the South Col (she says with a laugh) and is feeling strong and positive.  There will be someone at base camp who will keep us posted of her progress.

Congratulations to Ben Webster from the Canadian Everest2000 team and Nazir Sabir both climbing with Mountain Madness!

Patty Flanagan Mountain Madness

Update: Christine Boskoff summited Everest !!! 

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