To review Everest News earlier report:
News on the Czech Everest 98 North Face
Expedition. You will notice we added the names of Radek Jaros (34) and Vladimir Nosek
(35), one of the team's doctors, to the summit page. Both climbers reached the summit on
5/19/98. Both of these climbers reached the summit without oxygen ! Other team members and
their status (all without oxygen): Zdenek Hruby (42) the leader of the expedition reached
8600meters solo, Vladislav Drda (44) reached 8100 meters, Tomas Kozak (35) the other team
doctor reached 8100 meters, Petr Skalka (46) reached 8300meters, Bohuslav Blazek (38) was
a non-climbing member and Jaroslav Hlava (39) was also a non-climbing member. Great Job by
the Czech team ! Two summits without oxygen ! More on the Czech team later. Once again
another great Everest 98 success !
Everest News interview with Zdenek Hruby, the Czech climber, who
lead the Czech Everest 98 North Face Expedition who had two climbers, Radek Jaros and
Valdimir Nosek, reach the summit of Everest in Spring 1998 on the North Side of Everest.
The team climbed without the use of bottled oxygen ! Zdenek Hruby reached 8600
meters solo before turning around on May 19, 1998.
Everest News Interview with Everest Climber Zdenek Hruby :
Q. Which route did you climb? We noticed the Expedition
name. Were you planning (or did you) on climbing the North Face?
A. The route was North Buttress via North Col and North East
Ridge.
Q. Time of day did your climbers reach the summit?
A. 2:30 p.m.
Q. Had any of your climbers previously reached the summit of
Everest?
A. No
Q. Give on us background on you team (sorry we don't know
much about your climbers).
A. Zdenek Hruby - climbed in Europe, Asia, North America.
Reached summits of several seven-thousands peaks, e. g. Pik Pobeda in Tien - Sian. Reached
3 eight-thousands peaks, including double on Gasherbrums I and II. Deputy leader of Czech
expeditions Everest 96 and Karakorum 97.
Vladislav Drda - climbed in Europe and Asia,
reached summits of 2 eight-thousands peaks, member of expeditions Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri,
Gasherbrum.
Radek Jaros - climbed in Europe, Asia, North
America, Africa. Member of Everest 94 expedition, reached 7700 in Norton Couloir.
Tomas Kozak - climbed in Europe, Asia, North
America, reached summits of several seven-thousands peaks, including Pik Komunisma.
Vladimir Nosek - climbed in Europe, Asia,
North America, South America, Africa. Reached several summits of seven-thousands peaks
including Pik Komunisma.
Petr Skalka - climbed in Europe, Asia, North
America. Besides several big walls climbs reached summits of several seven-thousands peaks
including Pik Komunisma. Member of Everest 96 expedition, reached 8050m on North Buttress.
Q. How did it feel to be on Everest?
A. Very good feeling because of style of the
expedition, team spirit and very friendly cooperation, psychical and physical condition of
the members as well as return without any injuries.
Q. Can you tell us if your team worked as a
team or an individuals climbing separately?
A. This was a 100% team work, each of six
members had chance to reach summit (depend on weather).
Q. Did you use a Sherpa support team at all?
A. We use one Sherpa - not for climbing in
fact. He supported us mostly for carrying equipment and assisting during transport
Kathmandu - ABC - Kathmandu as well as for taking equipment down from camps after
finishing of climbing.
Q. What next?
A. Depends on money and time - K2, Broad
Peak, Mt. Vinson (Antarctica).
Q. Why do you climb Everest?
A. One answer is that from Mallory. A
challenge for us to climb the highest peak without artificial oxygen. Moreover, Everest is
not only the highest but nice and fascinating peak from the North. The route via North
East Ridge provides an unique possibility to climb a long traverse above 8300m,
resp.
8500m, without any chance to escape down in short time. It is also very challenging to
spend weeks in the remote ABC, 6400m and above, without return to the lower country. No
helicopters etc.
Best regards
Zdenek
Editorial comment: These Czechs climbers on Everest
this year were pretty amazing . Six climbers, only two support people, one Sherpa, No
oxygen and Two summits !!! This team by all reports contained very strong men that
performed a great achievement. Two men to summit from the North side of Everest without
the use of bottled oxygen is a great achievement in climbing, and with no deaths on the
team !!!
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