The Millennium
Seven Summits Expedition led by Gavin Bate and John Barry join the
EverestNew.com team. EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos
from this expedition. Please see below for information on them and their dispatches
from Everest.
- Millennium Seven Summits
Expedition
The Millennium
Challenge team will be climbing Everest in an attempt to make the first British ascent in
the year 2000. The team of seven is made up of John Barry and Gavin Bate, Andy
Salter, Polly Murray , Chris Tiso, George Barlow and Michele Santilhano. There
will also be a back-up team of communications experts and cooks as well as the
complement of high altitude Sherpas.
Between the seven
summits are
the roof of our planet. Each one is a sizeable adventure. To stand on top of
each of these mountains in the period of one year. A British record for the
Millennium and a Millennium message from the Top of the World - it is a
powerful image, and a realistic one.
Gavin Bate http://adventurealternative.com
| Gavin
Bate walked across the Sahara Desert on his own at 21 years of age and has
been exploring and mountaineering ever since. From buying ships world-wide
for scrap for his father in the Far East he has organized and presented
documentaries of expeditions in Iceland, Tibet and Africa as well as an
adventure series in Ireland. Gavin runs his own company, Adventure
Alternative, and was part of the British team which successfully skied from
the summit of Denali in Alaska and recently summitted the 6th highest
mountain in the world without bottled oxygen. |
| John Barry is the man who took the first British woman to the summit of Everest. He is
one of Britain's most accomplished and active mountaineers, a man who has
been to the worlds highest mountain four times. He has climbed on all the
world's big mountain ranges, written books, and presented the BBC series
Arctic Challenge. He was Director of Plas y Brenin Outdoor Centre in Wales
for seven years and has since been leading expeditions to all corners of
the world. |
Dispatch: Everest Base Camp,
18,150'
The
team is all keeping well. We have been back up to Camp 1 and have spent the night
without any problems at 20,000'. Later some of us moved up to Camp 2 (
21,500' ) for a day trip. Andy Salter suffered an attack of Delhi Belly at Camp
One which was very unfortunate and one of our Sherpas, Nan Chumbi, had a really
bad blister.
Camp Two is pretty
empty, with most groups still in the process of putting in loads and storing
them under rocks. Our Camp is quite well organized and will be fully stocked and
ready in about four days. We are tucked up at the top end of the Western Cwm,
right below the daunting Lhotse Face, our next massive obstacle on the way to
the South Col. Walking up the Western Cwm is an incredible experience, one of
the most incredible valleys in the world with the stunning sheer face of
impossible ice of Nuptse on one side; and towering on the other side, the dark
triangular peak of Everest jutting into the sky, black and forbidding. It is
such a sight that knocks your breath away. The Lhotse Face is quite dry and icy,
several thousand feet straight up, with the distinctive saddle shape of the
south col etched against the horizon. It is quite clear that the real stuff
begins from Camp 2.
We came
down to Base Camp quite shattered and spent. Today we are just relaxing and
rehydrating. Andy Salter is now completely recovered. It is amazing how exhausted
you feel after being up high. We are now going down the valley to relax in
Lobuje and climb Pokalde, a trekking peak of 19,600'. This diversion will aid in
our training and
more importantly allow us a change of scenery. We are in the happy position of being
somewhat ahead of ourselves in terms of acclimatisation and logistics. Some
teams are yet to make their first move up to Camp One. This means we have the
luxury of being able to pop down to lower altitudes, see some green grass and
breathe some thicker air ! We plan to be back on Thursday.
It is very cold at
Base Camp these days. Last night it snowed. The next trek group is shortly
coming out and we are putting in an order for luxuries for them to bring up to us -
Stilton cheese, the Sunday Telegraph and so on. Some things in Life are too
important to miss !
Michele
would like to say a big hello and thank you to all her supporters in South
Africa. News has surfaced that Andy Salter proposed to Louise as she left
Base Camp after her trek in with us. She accepted !
We hope
that everyone is keeping well at home, we heard about the drubbing that England
got from Scotland in a game of 'unremitting savagery' ( which pleased Chris Tiso
no end ) - and we would like to thank everyone for their notes of support and
encouragement.
With very
best regards from Base Camp,
Gavin
Bate
Second
Dispatch: Everest
Base Camp 14th April 2000 Greetings from the British Everest Expedition !
From
18,150' on the Khumbu Glacier, the British team is doing very well and enjoying
the comforts of Base Camp. This afternoon it is snowing quite heavily and
visibility is low - thank God ! sometimes the continual sight of the Khumbu
Icefall is enough to drive anyone mad. Already the talk is of "what's the
first thing you'll do or eat when you get back home" ! We have just come
back from a relaxing week down the valley, climbing the trekking peak of Pokalde
and basking in the relative heat of Lobuje ! Fortunately we are in the position
to do this, because we have been here since more or less the beginning of April
and we have already been up to Camp Two on Mount Everest, and put in a lot of
our logistics. We have successfully climbed through the Icefall several times,
slept at Camp One and almost all of our gear is sitting at Camp Two. Between
ourselves, the big Canadian team, Mountain Madness and Babu Sherpa's lot ( he's
the one who is trying for a speed ascent of Everest in 16 hours )we have put in
rope to fix the route from Camp 2 to 3. At the moment the Sherpas are within 200
meters of reaching Camp 3 - this heavy snowfall now may well delay things by a
day or two. Base Camp is
heaving ! There's been a slight problem with the people who are supposed to
remove all the feces from all the Camps (hardly surprising - would YOU be in a
hurry to come up and carry 20 barrels of s*** down the valley ? ). We called
SPCC today ( Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee ) and they're sending up a
team tomorrow. Otherwise, everyone is settling in and the Base Camp grapevine is
alive and well ! It's great fun listening to all the gossip, believe me. To be
honest, all the foreign climbers would be best leaving it all to the Sherpas -
those guys are heroic. Their strength on the hill is phenomenal, and their
patience a real example to everyone. Our plan is to pop up to Camp Two on Monday
17th. We hope to sleep there for a few nights, then do a day trip to Camp Three,
come down again and rest at Base Camp. We have a very useful contract with
Bracknelll in the UK for the best weather forecasts and on the back of them,
we'll then plan to make a summit bid around the beginning of May when the jet
streams lift. Given that nobody has suffered any ill-health and that we've had
no problems up to Camp Two so far, the team is quietly confident. You have to
keep positive - perhaps the hardest thing up here is keeping patient, positive
and motivated ! Climbing Everest is not so much about technical ability ( it
isn't ) as about keeping healthy and happy and hoping that the lottery of
weather comes up in your favor at the right time !
To
introduce the team quickly - Gavin Bate ( poor sod who organized it all - based
in Belfast ), John Barry ( illustrious climbing guide ), Chris Tiso Equipment
sponsor, MD of Tiso the Great Outdoor specialists, corporate stormtrooper,
Scottish ), Andy Salter ( ex-crocodile hunter, GreenPeace volunteer, rope access
specialist ), Michele Santilhano ( South African nurse on the Seven Summits
trail ), Polly Murray ( ski instructor, ex-Brit Olympic squad, Scottish ) and
our wonderful Base Camp staff - Noel 'Computer Nerd and total Anorak' Bristow (
also the best expeditions comms man in the business, and Welsh ) and Amanda Fry
( Camp Totty ). Our Sherpa contingent is Ang Rita Sherpa ( Sirdar ), Dawa
Tenzing ( Cook ), Jangbu Sherpa ( 4 times Everest summiter ), Pemba Gyaljen,
Pemba Rinjen, Nan Chumbi, Chandra and another Dawa Tenzing. We take our hats off
to these guys.
Thanks to
all our sponsors and to the New Millennium Company in Northern Ireland, and to
Famous Grouse for keeping the evenings warm ! We're all looking forward to our
chance on Everest and we'd like to thank everyone at home for putting up with
our updates. Wish us luck !
Cheers
Gavin Bate
Dispatch: Everest
Base Camp Sunday 16th April 2000
Last night the team
had a fantastic meal - Sherpa Stew - and spent the evening listening to the
Corrs, drinking whisky and chatting. Lots of time is spent just doing nothing, acclimatizing
and resting. It can get a bit boring, but obviously our minds are on going up to
Camp 2 in the next few days and hopefully up to Camp 3. Now that the Lhotse Face
has more or less been fixed with rope, we can make the move. We have heard that
the Face is quite icy - not what we want ! What we want is about a foot of snow
in which we can make nice big bucket steps ! There has been a lot of snowfall
recently, which may or may not play in our favor. The last thing we want is to
be breaking trail through thigh deep snow at 20,000'+ !!
To recap
our position - we've got most of our personal gear (North Face sleeping bags and
down suits, one-piece wind suits, mitts and clothing for up high, Thermarests)
all in one tent at Camp One.
At Camp
Two we now have all of our tents for the rest of the mountain, the North Face 2 meter
Dome 2 which will be our main living quarters, all of the fresh food and
Wayfarer mountain boil-in-the-bag food, all of the gas, stoves, radios,
batteries and hardware for the rest of the mountain. All of it is buried under
rocks at the moment to protect it from the elements and the birds; from Tuesday,
the Camp will start to become habitable ( tents up and so on ).
The 400 meters
of polyprop rope which I bought has been added to a few other teams donations,
and the Lhotse Face has been fixed to within 200 meters of Camp 3 at around
23,500'. Bad weather has prevented the last bit being fixed but we are expecting
it to be ready by Wednesday.
A word
about our communication system on the mountain - it is a critical part of our movements on the
hill. Noel Bristow is well-known in the mountaineering/expedition world as one
of the best in the business (Makalu '92, Everest '93). He has linked our two
Base Camp 32W solar panels to a bank of gel batteries which power all our
laptops, sat phones, VHF radios and the music system ! We then have our handheld
radios for each person and these are powered by flexible solar panels and gel
batteries at each of the high camps. Sounds simple but Noel has hand-built all
the control boxes himself.
A little
bit about our equipment- for trips up to Camp 2 we are wearing full thermals, polartec
midlayer, North Face fleeces, gloves and mitts, fleece hats, Rab one-piece wind suits
if necessary, woolen socks and Everest One Sport boots. We all wear a harness
with a jumar and a cows tail for clipping on when crossing crevasses and going
through the Icefall. We use a combination of sticks for balance and a standard
ice axe for some of the steeper sections. Our specialist high altitude kit is
The North Face and Rab (tents - VE25's and Evolution 45's, one-piece down suits,
wind suits). Plus of course the oxygen from Zvesda in Moscow.
So
everyone is really looking forward to making a move next week, since it can get
a bit wearing just sitting here. It basically takes a month before our bodies
are ready in terms of acclimatisation, so we are nearing our optimum time for
making a summit bid.
Thanks to
everyone for their support and best greetings from Everest. We'll keep you
posted on our progress.
Best
regards
Dispatch:
Everest Base Camp 17th April 2000
It is
very cold tonight and we are preparing to leave Base Camp tomorrow morning very
early to go to Camp One, then onto Camp 2 and hopefully up to Camp 3 over the
following 5 days. Radios have been charged, films changed in cameras, kit
checked, boots tried on again and loads of liquid imbibed (not whisky this time
! ).
There is
a lot of movement on the mountain now with teams making their first forays up to
Camp One. Yesterday unfortunately one of the ladders spanning a crevasse
collapsed with one of our Sherpas on it. He was clipped into a safety line but
was still left dangling some 25' down into the crevasse. Thankfully he was not
hurt, but it shows the fragility of the Icefall route. Later that day one of the
ice cliffs with a number of vertical ladders attached to it actually moved and
all the ladders came away. A number of avalanches in the Icefall last night have
rendered some of the crossings a bit delicate - we'll find out tomorrow !
We're
still doing fine. The Lhotse Face has now been fixed to above Camp 3 and we are
hoping to take a trip up there on Thursday. Wish us luck and thank you for all
your support.
Noel Bristow.
For Gavin Bate
Check our News
Page for all the Updates on the Millennium Seven Summits
Expedition and all the other expeditions on Everest.
Dispatch: We've
just come back from a big excursion on the mountain and we're now back in Base
Camp, resting and relaxing. It's been a big adventure with no shortage of drama
as well as, thankfully, success for our team.
We left Base Camp for
Camp 1 again and made the now predictably exhausting ascent up the Icefall
Route. Since we first went up there, it has changed quite a lot. Seracs have
fallen, new ropes put in, snowfall has blanketed the blue ice and many of the
ladders have buckled and bent. It's still incredibly exciting picking your way
through the ice, though, a massive playground !
In the beginning we
were so careful about crossing crevasses on the ladders. Now we just clip in to
the rope with hardly a break in stride and walk straight across ( no more
creeping across on all fours or, in some cases, flat on our stomachs !).
Sometimes we run and take a jump, taking a quick glimpse of the yawing abyss
descending into blackness below us.
At Camp 1 we settled
into the tents and boiled up liquids. We need to consume at least eight pints a
day to stay on form, so it's lots of soup and tea ! One of us has to rush out
and collect bags of snow and ice to melt, making sure we avoid those areas were
people take a pee ! (that's a really good way of leaving the hill with
horrendous stomach cramps, doubled over like a question mark ). There is a
narrow crevasse a few feet away which people use for a toilet by squatting
astride the gap out in the open ( no pretence at privacy here ! ). The problem
is that people don't always stick to the right place!
Anyway we all sleep
well and we wake at 5am, to get ready to go up to Camp 2. I pop outside to use
the crevasse and it is inhumanly cold ! It must be 20 below with wind chill.
There is a unanimous decision to get deeper into the sleeping bag, turn over and
wait for sun-up. It takes me at least an hour to feel vaguely warm.
The sun comes up and
we realize our mistake. The route to Camp 2 up the Western Cwm is now a trek
through the worlds biggest oven ! It is so hot and it is utterly shade less !
The heat beats into us from all directions, as it bounces off the snow. It is
like walking into a wall. We are so slow ! Hours pass and the camp never seems
to get any closer. What idiots we are to be out in such heat !. Never again will
we do the midday trek up the Western Cwm.
CAMP 2
Our
North Face 2 meter dome is such a welcome to see. We settle into our North Face
VE-25 mountain tents and rest. We are now sleeping at 21,500' and it is very
important to take it easy. This end of the Western Cwm is just stunning, an
utterly incredible place to be. Down the valley we can see the whole Nuptse
ridge on one side and on the other, rearing and towering directly above us where
we are camped, the massive SW face of Everest. The summit is right there !
Following the skyline down from the summit is our
route all the way to the South Col and then, following round to the head of the
valley, dominating the entire top end of the Western Cwm is the Lhotse Face -
the guts of 5000 feet of snow and ice going straight up - and almost half way
up, just visible to the naked eye, a tiny huddle of tents in the middle of some
ice cliffs - our Camp 3 !!
Going to
Camp 3
We
tried going up once but turned back after two hours right at the base of the
Lhotse Face itself where the ropes start, because Polly had a mild chest
infection and the freezing cold air was such an irritant that she coughed all
the time. Back to Camp and more resting. Next morning we were up at 4am. The
Sherpas start their climbing day with boiled pasta in hot milk which I'm afraid
was beyond our Western stomachs ! We had porridge. .The
Sherpas are going all the way to South Col to start putting gear in for us -
super humans, they really are. A couple of
hours later and we're at the base of the Lhotse
Face. It's just plain massive. John hands out instructions like mad as we check
harnesses, knots, crampons, gulp liquid, snatch a mouth of chocolate. We're
stamping feet and wind milling arms to keep warm. Above us, 2500 feet straight
up!
The
Lhotse Face
It's
blue ice, it's high, it's never-ending and there's
a storm coming in. We are using jumars and the first section is more or less
front-pointing. Within minutes I am exhausted. I glance down at Andy and am glad
to see he looks exactly the same - already tired ! Now it is just a matter of
concentration on the ice and stamina to keep going.
But it is
fantastic climbing ! Looking up I can see John hammering his front points into
the cliff and the thousands of chips of ice shower down on me, blown violently
into my face by the wind. I am wriggling my toes like mad and balling my hands
one by one to stop the cold from eating into me. Then it's my turn - put a foot
up, hammer it into the ice, check it's safe, put some weight on, haul up on the
jumar and push up, place the next foot, and on and on like that. Every three
steps everyone stops and gasps and gasps - from a distance we appear virtually
stationery, tiny dots on vast face. Sometimes the angle is steep, sometimes not
so steep; sometimes it is sheer blue ice, others times snow-covered - but all
the time it is absolutely, totally and utterly exhausting ! John leads with
Chris behind, then me, Andy, Polly and Michele. Each time I glance down I see
Andy moving up towards me and swear - I need to carry on ! If he's resting, I
can rest too ! We are too tired to talk, just a meeting of eyes is enough for us
to communicate the same message - what a monster !
After six hours we get
to Camp 3, a precarious perch at 23,500' - two tents pitched together right on
an edge. About fifty feet away are some ruins of tents from other groups - hmmm,
great. We all pile into one tent and sprawl all over each other. I am squatting
in the porch sorting out rucksacks, crampons and so on, John has one stocking
foot stuck in Andy's armpit because it's cold, Chris is passing round bottles of
water, Polly unfortunately ) has to go to the toilet and Michele is still an
hour down the slope.
Down The
Slope
Now
the wind really picks up and there is masses of spindrift. It is blowing a
hoolie out there ! Michele eventually comes in, shattered, but we have little
time. We have to get out of here and fast. Above the sound of the wind we
suddenly hear this deep booming sound. It takes a moment to work out what it is
- "That" says John, "is the wind going through the South
Col". There can be no more frightening sound than that, I swear. Suddenly
where we are and what we are doing is put into bleak perspective. This is
Everest, no doubt about it !
One at a
time we get ready to leave. I go first. No ! I have to go for a pee ! Flash
freeze ! Chris crawls out as well and we help each other. I'm glad we're going
down together. I'm shaking with cold.
Now we
have nearly three thousand feet to go down - how to do it ? Easy. Face forward
down the hill, wrap one arm round the rope and go as fast as you can without
losing control ! At times we're jogging. panting madly, punching the crampons
into the ice and thinking "what the heck am I doing?".
The wind
is howling and all feeling in my face is gone. Icicles are hanging from my beard
and the snot is freezing as it drips out of my nose. Despite the cold and the
tiredness and the intense concentration, it is an amazing experience and utterly
adrenalin-pumping ! Here we are, rushing face forward down the Lhotse Face on
Everest in a storm ! It's incredible! Some parts my crampons slip on the ice but
there's no stopping, except to clip our safety karabiner onto the next line.
Sometimes, when it's just too steep, I put in the figure of eight and abseil
down.
Chris is
right behind me and we're shouting to each other - "Line clear !" -
but we can't see each other, the visibility is so poor. Then Polly appears
behind Chris and the three of us reach the bottom of the Lhotse Face. We've done
it. Now we race back to Camp 2 as fast as possible.
Unfortunately
Michele, who is coming down with John and Andy, takes a tumble just at the
bottom of the Face on the way down and hurts her face. She's fine but the three
of them come in about an hour later. Everyone is tired but pretty elated - we've
made it to Camp 3 and we're all okay!
Next
Move
Next day
we motor down to Base Camp in quick time and pig out on fried eggs, chips and
fried bread ! Forget all that rubbish about careful diets ! Your body tells you
what you want - and we CRAVED a big fatty fried meal ! Next on the list was a
can of San Miguel !
Then we
dive into our shower tent - a large metal bucket of water on top of a kerosene
heater and a jug. You stand naked on a piece of karrimat and do the best
you can ! We absolutely stink and our clothes reek - all part of the fun of a
mountaineering expedition !
Now we're
resting. It's snowing very heavily and we are worried about our tents at Camp 3
collapsing. Tomorrow we will probably go down the valley for another breath of
rich air in Lobuje. We'll be gone for about three days. The next group of
trekkers is coming up to visit us and they've got our order - Stilton cheese,
haggis, thick cut orange marmalade, the Times newspaper, Yachting Monthly,
Sambuca, Earl Grey Tea - the small luxuries in life that are so important !
So, we're all okay and
our plan is as follows - weather dependant !!
We've
just got our first weather forecast from Bracknell (Met Office) and it's not too
great. The jet streams are still quite low and there are expected 80 knot winds.
5 - 27 April Lobuje rest,
8 - 30 April Base Camp rest, prepare for summit attempt, 1 May Go to Camp 1, 2
May Go to Camp 2, 3 May Rest at Camp 2, 4 May Go to Camp 3, sleep on oxygen, 5
May Go to Camp 4 ( South Col ) on oxygen, 6 May Summit day, back to S. Col,
rest, 7 May Clear Camp 4, go to Camp 2, 8 May Go to Base Camp
We've
just got our first weather forecast from Bracknell (Met Office) and it's not too
great. The jet streams are still quite low and there are expected 80 knot winds
at 24,000' on 28 April which means it will be difficult for the Sherpas to stock
some of our high camps. To put it into perspective, our storm the other day was
probably around 35 knots ! So, we'll just have
to wait
and see. At the moment it's just nice to sleep a lot. Main conversations now
revolve around the amount of food and drink we're going to consume when we get
back to Kathmandu.
On behalf
of the Everest team I would like to extend our thanks to all the messages of
support from the many people who have sent emails. This may sound soft, but it
really does make a difference to know that people out there are egging us on.
Classic example - 9 year old David Alexander sent us a great little good luck
message which was relayed to us at 22000 feet by radio, thanks very much ! Some
people are saying why are we doing it - we're asking ourselves that all the time
! Hundreds of people are now on the emailing list and receiving these updates
and the number is growing all the time. The website has had a 500% increase in
hits in the last 3 weeks and we've been doing live radio interviews to Scotland,
Northern Ireland and the World Service. Everybody here knows about us, the Brit
team (with the South African on board) who are pushing to be one of the first on
a summit attempt!
Finally,
a word of thanks and very justly deserved. Our equipment, provided by The North
Face and Rab, is proving excellent and the satellite communication equipment
from Ships Electronic Services is fantastic. Comms at Base Camp is being run by
Noel Bristow and Amanda Fry, and they are both quite invaluable to the
expedition. Once we go to the top, it will be Noel and Amanda back here with
their forecasts and sanity who will guide us on - letting us know how many hours
of oxygen we have left and so on.
Back in
Northern Ireland the staff of the New Millennium Company are in our thoughts -
it IS time to make a difference and we're trying !! - and especially Brian Reid
who is running our website and managing the emailing list ( you're a star and I
do owe you and Rachel a holiday !), and lastly but absolutely not leastly? Greg
at the 7 Summits office who is dealing with all the correspondence, emails,
background logistics (and looking after my dog ! ).
Greg,
everyone here salutes you and thanks you for our commitment - the unsung hero of
our expedition ! We have all decided that we would like to have a picture of you
on the website so everyone can see who's turning the cogs in the background !
Sorry this is such a long message but I hope you've enjoyed the continuing story
of our small adventures on Everest. Our next move is to the summit - weather and
God willing. We'll keep you posted.
Best regards Gavin
Dispatch: 4/26/2000
So we're resting today
and there's lots of stuff to do. Principally we're checking all the oxygen
bottles (to make sure that they are full), checking that the regulators work and trying out the
whole outfit with the masks again and again until we're completely happy with it
all. Imagine that the next time we use these things will be at 24,000' in
freezing cold weather, fumbling with numb fingers and trying to think about flow
rates when your brain is pickled with altitude. This is so important. We'll
hopefully be working in pairs on summit day because one of the biggest problems
is changing bottles which means taking down mitts off, getting the changeover
right and trying to do it all in enough time to avoid frostbite on your digits !
As we approach what
are possibly the final days of this expedition, it is only right that we applaud our
Sherpas, since it is their super human efforts that is making all this possible
on the mountain. I mean, can you imagine carrying a 30 kilo gas bottle on your
back up to Camp 2? Not only are they tremendously strong but they also exhibit
consummate patience. Even after a monster day going up to fix ropes on the
Lhotse Face, they still come back smiling. They eat mountains of tsampa (barley
meal), pasta with milk for breakfast, raw chillies, they drink salt tea and they
maintain a politeness and Buddhist calm that is an example to everyone.
Today I am going down to
Gorak Shep to meet my good friend Pat Falvey, the first Irishman to climb
all the Seven Summits and the person with whom I summitted Cho Oyu with in 1998.
It will be good to see him. The others are coming down tomorrow and we'll
all go down to Lobuje for a rest till the weekend.
Morale is very high at the
moment and we are feeling a little better about our tents at Camp 3 - this
morning the weather cleared enough for our Camp 2 cook to see the tents
still intact high on the Lhotse Face. However we are preparing for the worst
and assuming that they will collapse, so we'll take up extra poles.
So lots of best wishes from
our Base Camp and we'll keep in touch when were back from our little
sojourn. Meanwhile I hope you enjoy our photo of Base Camp activities,
namely football on a frozen lake just at the bottom the Icefall !
Best regards, Gavin Bate
Dispatch: Everest Update - 30th
April 2000
The climbing team is still down the
valley resting at Lobuche, waiting for the weather to improve. The jet stream
is still affecting the top of the mountain with 80-90 knot winds. We can
hear the winds roaring even down at Base Camp. This has stopped any of the
teams from reaching the South Col, the closest yet being our Sherpas who
helped fix the ropes to within 200 meters of the South Col nearly a week
ago. The Sherpas tried to reach the South Col two days ago, but had to leave
their load of 16 oxygen bottles at Camp 3 on the Lhotse face, due to the
high winds - the risk of frostbite due to wind-chill is very high. We are
now waiting for a weather forecast, so that the Sherpas can decide whether
to go up to Camp 2 tomorrow morning or not.
The climbing team expect to come back up
to Base Camp on Tuesday, and they will then move back up the mountain for
their summit bid later in the week, weather permitting. There are now
several teams in a similar position to us, just waiting for the weather to
improve.
At Base Camp we have a steady stream of
visiting trekkers come to check on the progress of the team and to send
messages home, either by sat phone or email. Many of the climbers from other
teams also use these facilities, or simply drop in for a chat and a cup of
tea. There is a very effective grapevine at Base Camp, sharing information
about the conditions on the mountain and the weather.
There is quite a buzz about Base Camp,
now that summit time approaches! Cheers, Noel Bristow
Dispatch: Base
camp Wednesday 5/3/2000
They do
say that patience is a virtue, and ours is being tested right now ! We have
spent several days below in the village of Lobuje, eating well and sleeping
well, and every morning gazing up at the high tops and seeing the tell-tale
signs of high winds and bad weather. By mid-afternoon the weather has invariably
clagged in and quite often it is snowing. With a sigh we have gone back into the
lodge and discussed, yet again, our different possibilities and itineraries.
It is SO frustrating !!
Now we are back in Base Camp
and yesterday when we arrived there was a huge snowstorm and the tents were
lashed by strong winds. People are leaving the mountain in droves ! This morning
it is clear skies but still high winds and we have spoken to our Sherpas at Camp
2 who have confirmed that there is no movement up high.
It is VERY frustrating !!
We are
all ready and primed ( like "coiled springs" as Andy says, doing some
light calisthenics outside in a muscle T-shirt ) and we have all over-dosed on
sleep. The silent cry of "Let's Go !" is in everyone's mind. One
pleasant distraction has been the arrival of my second trek group who arrive at
Base Camp today. We met them in Lobuje and it was good to chat with new faces.
Rory Tiso, brother of Chris, was man of the hour when he delivered a 'goodies
bag' of luxuries like the newspapers, magazines, salami, cask strength
whisky, Sambuca, haggis and oatcakes ! We fell upon the bag like idiots !
Our trek group is fantastic,
some real characters. None of them are climbers or even especially enthusiastic
hill walkers - they just wanted the opportunity to go to Base Camp during an
actual summit attempt. It means a lot to us as well, to have that sort of
support from people back home who have trekked up here to see this incredible
mountain.
Anyway life is now revolving
around the weather forecast and the daily radio call with Camp 2 to find out
what the movements are up there. At the moment the forecast indicates that the
weather is changing today, with a big high pressure coming in from the north (
the Tibetan plateau ) which is pushing this current low pressure away, hence the
present unsettled weather. On the 5th the winds are supposed to be gossamer
light and several groups are going for the top on that day. Unfortunately
we can't take advantage of that because we don't have all our gear at Camp 4
yet. Then on the
7th'ish there's supposed to be 35 knot winds at 24,000' which is too strong for summiting
and, hopefully, then a drop in wind for maybe the 8th or 9th which is our
proposed date of summiting. Who knows ? We are literally in the hands of the
Gods up here.
It is UTTERLY frustrating !!
We will keep you posted.
Meanwhile life at Base Camp drags on and we dream of hot showers, clean sheets,
central heating, bacon sanies, strong cheddar, armchairs, movies and washing
machines !! All the best
Gavin
Updates: 5/4/2000 Everest
Base Camp, 18150' From: the
Everest Summit Team
Last night Base Camp echoed
with the sounds of revelry from our camp, late into the night. Twenty odd
people, us and our group of visiting trekkers, followed dinner with a high
altitude party that will be remembered for a long time, e.g. John Gillespie
'jiving' to the sounds of Bob Marley, on top of the dining table; John Barry
'jiving' with John Gillespie on top of the dining table; John Barry giving John
Gillespie a fireman's lift which resulted in nearly the entire mess tent being
pulled down around our ears; and so on - an evening which has resulted in some
long and drawn faces this morning !
We woke this morning to
fabulous blue skies and light winds. The forecast came through at 9am and is the
best we've had for weeks. A huge high pressure is sitting directly over Everest,
the jet streams have dropped and the winds are dropping steadily. In 3 days
there is an almost windless day on the summit forecast, and the following 3 or 4
days are expected to be good.
Suddenly plans are being
formulated, summit days being discussed and thoughts are turning to bits of kit
we need to take up for the last push on Everest.
At Camp 2 this morning the
Sherpas left early. We have just spoken to them on the radio and they have made
Camp 4 [Note this is May 4th.]
At last our supplies are being dumped at 26,000' in preparation for our summit
push.
The trekkers have also been
drawn into the excitement of the moment; small knots of people are discussing
plans and options. It is a very unique opportunity to be up here as part of the
whole climbing logistics. They have just gone up to the Icefall route to have a
look. Later Kevin Kahan, hairdresser extraordinaire from Bangor in Northern
Ireland, will be giving haircuts to the summit team ( in return for some funds
for charity).
This afternoon we will gather
together our bits of kit ( although most of it is already up the hill ) and
we'll plan for an early night. Tomorrow morning we'll be up at 4am for a 5am
start. Our plan is to get up
to Camp 2 tomorrow, rest for a day and get another forecast from Noel (
Expedition comms man at Base Camp ); then, if all looks favorable, we'll climb
to Camp 3 and go onto oxygen for the night before climbing up to the south col
Camp 4 at 26,000' ). We might then get one more 24 hour forecast from Noel and
try for the top - possibly for the 9th or 10th May.
We will be in constant radio
contact with Noel and as he receives our reports he will send out an update. As
time goes on and things get more critical, the updates will be more frequent. We
hope to keep you all in touch with our progress as it happens, and we thank
EVERYONE once again for their support. Speaking on behalf of the team we feel
strong and confident; we feel we have done all the right things in our
preparations, our acclimatisation and our approach to this mountain. We have
adopted a laid-back, humorous and practical state of mind to all our actions and
we have a very strong team of Sherpas working for us. We need just a week of
good weather, a bit of luck and the determination as a team to overcome this
last hurdle of the expedition. Obviously we all have our own thoughts and our
own worries, but once again the overall philosophy of the group is to take each
day as it comes, to give it our best and to do our best for ourselves, for all
our supporters out there and for our country. We are, after all, the only UK
independent team up here.
We also have Michele
Santilhano here who is representing South Africa, and we know that many people
across her country will be watching and following her progress. She is certainly
a great ambassador for her nation. John Barry, Andrew Salter, Chris Tiso, Polly
Murray, Michele Santilhano and myself all hope to do our best, and most
importantly to come down safely. About four or five other groups are all
planning to summit in and around the next week so we will not be alone up there.
From the south col we will have an eighteen hour day to accomplish - 12 hours to
the summit and 6 hours back down. Each of us will have 3 bottles of oxygen to
breathe from, and each bottle will last us six hours at a flow rate of 2 liters
per minute. There is precious little room for error, so we will be relying on
Noel at Base Camp to advise us of the time lapsed and the amount of oxygen we
have left.
Enough talk now. Wish us luck
and God speed and be sure that your support will spur us on. I hope to report
success. With all best regards and especially from all of us we send our love to
our families. Gavin Bate and the Everest Team
Update: Everest
Base Camp - 5/5/00
The
day started at 4:30AM with a blast on Dawa's whistle for breakfast. The team
duly assembled in the Sherpa kitchen (much warmer than the mess tent at that
time of day) for a breakfast of porridge and toast, washed down with plenty of
milk tea (of course!). By 5:00 they were ready to leave for the Icefall and the
first step of their journey to the summit. They were waved off by Amanda and
myself, and the whole of the Irish trekking group - an unusual send-off at that
time of the morning.
After
waiting by the radio for most of the day, we eventually received a radio call
from Polly at Camp 2 to say that they had all arrived safe and sound. They had
reached Camp 1, at the top of the Icefall, by late morning. They spent an hour
and a half there, resting and drinking to replace lost fluids. This also gave a
chance for the skies to cloud over, therefore avoiding an exhausting walk in the
baking heat of the Western Cwm. They reached Camp 2
at 3:30PM and, after radioing
down to Base Camp, they have settled down to a meal and a well-earned rest.
In
the meantime, the Sherpas have taken another double carry (~30kg each) from Camp
2 to Camp 4 on the South Col. This completes the
carries to Camp 4, and everything is now in place for the summit attempt. The
Sherpas will now have two rest days at Camp 2, before returning to the South Col
for the summit attempt.
We
said goodbye to the Irish trekking group late this morning. They were a blast of
entertainment and we very much enjoyed the Craic.
Tomorrow the climbing
team will rest at Camp 2, and we will send off for a
weather forecast from Bracknell. If
the forecast is favorable, the climbing team will continue up to Camp 3.
Otherwise they will be forced to wait at Camp 2 for better weather. We will keep
our fingers crossed and keep you all informed of our progress. Noel Bristow
For much more on The
Millennium Seven Summits
Expedition.
The
Millennium Seven Summits
Expedition
Dispatch: Everest Base
Camp - 6th May 2000
Today saw the first
summit attempt of the year. One of the teams got as far as the Balcony, which is
about 6 hours above the South Col (Camp 4). Unfortunately, they had to turn back
due to waist deep snow. Several other teams are waiting on the mountain and at
least one of these teams is planning to attempt to summit tomorrow.
Our climbing team
reached Camp 2 yesterday and they have rested there all today, along with the
Sherpas. They are all in good spirits.
We sent off for a
forecast this morning from Bracknell which was due this evening. Late this
afternoon we were visited by Yolanda, a meteorologist studying weather in the
Khumbu region as a specialty. With her help we were able to access weather maps
on the Internet and have them interpreted by her. This information, combined
with the forecast from Bracknell, has led to the decision for the climbing team
to wait at Camp 2 for one further day, before leaving for Camp 3 on the 8th May.
This means that they should
be attempting the summit on the 10th May.
We all hope that the
weather window of the 10th comes to fruition. Noel Bristow
Update: Everest
Base Camp - 7th May 2000
This morning dawned
with black skies, thunder and snow. In fact it has continued to snow all day so
far. The climbing team at Camp 2 reported high winds during the night. The two
teams at Camp 4 on the South Col last night did not go any further due to the
wind and have returned back to Camp 2 today. In fact the weather has continued
to be unsettled and difficult to forecast. Our climbing team have decided to
postpone their summit attempt by one day and are waiting for another weather
forecast. We will arrange for the forecast to arrive tomorrow lunchtime. This
will give them sufficient time to decide whether to go up for the summit or back
down to Base Camp.
The difficulty in
accurately predicting the weather has led to many teams going up one day only to
come down the next. The problem is that it takes at least three days to go from
Base Camp to the South Col ready for a summit attempt, by which time the weather
forecast has changed. The other problem at the moment is the amount of snow that
has fallen in the last week or so. The first teams to go for the summit are
likely to face deep snow, unless the winds blow the snow off in the meantime.
Only time will tell.
Noel Bristow
Update: May
8th 2000
Totally unpredictable
and atrocious weather has kept nearly 200 climbers at bay on this mountain ! A
possible summit 'window' was projected for the 10th but we need more than one
day to get to the top ! We went up to Camp 2 the other day but backed out of
trying to get to the south col in 45 knot winds. Considering we only have one
crack at this mountain, our decision to go up is not an easy one to make. We
have to think about our supplies of oxygen, food and gas at the high camps, and
also how our Sherpas will fit in with the programme.
Babu
Sherpa, the guy who is planning a 16 hour ascent, went up to the south col three
days ago and tried to go to the summit. Heavy snowfall below the south summit
scuppered (Irish word ?) his attempt and he came back; then Mountain Madness
went to the south col but didn't get any further because of high winds. We knew
their attempt would be a no-go because we were at Camp 2 listening to the
howling winds tear at our tents. The next morning we made the decision not to
dig too deep into our food supplies at Camp 2 and came back to Base Camp.
Now
everyone is getting very tetchy about summit dates. Today I met with Babu Sherpa
and we discussed joining forces for our summit bids. Some groups are planning
for the 12th and we will try for the 14th. It looks as if quite a few people
will be up there over the next few days. Whatever the case this is our best
chance coming up and we are hoping that our patience will finally win out. A
very special thank you for all the messages of support and good luck which we
have received. We have been overwhelmed ! Very best regards,
Gavin
The team have
arrived at Camp Two at 5PM, Friday 12th. Weather permitting they remain on
course for the final climb to the summit on May 14th
Everest Base Camp Wednesday
10th May
Now we are in the final days
of our Expedition and the mountain has knocked us back twice with bad weather.
Now we are trying for the third time ( lucky ?). We leave again tomorrow
morning, unless the weather is bad. In actual fact it is not so much the wind
but also the depth of the snow and the fact that nobody wants to break trail at
20,000 feet plus, since this would be so exhausting as to almost certainly stop
us dead in our tracks. Even the Sherpas baulk at breaking trail. Nobody has
summitted yet and those people who have tried have just been beaten back.
A lot of people are going to
try for the next few days so we will join the bandwagon and hope for the best.
we have heard that Camp 3 is utterly clogged with snow and many tents have
collapsed. The route to Camp 4 ( which we would do on oxygen ) basically
traverses the upper section of the Lhotse Face and the snow that has accumulated
there is now avalanche-prone - another problem to think about !
Although we're keeping the
spirits up, there is such a strong feeling of frustration now and most
conversations revolve around going home ( apart from going up !). It is very
annoying that after all this time, having done everything right and having been
so successful thus far, the mountain may well knock us back. Our feelings are
very philosophical on this score - we simply have to do the best that we can and
appreciate that climbing Everest is as much about luck as it is about ability.
If we don't make it then the experience of being on Everest will stay with us
for a long time, I know that.
We are all missing friends,
girlfriends, boyfriends, parents and so on. It will be wonderful to get back to civilization,
new faces, our homes and home comforts. I keep getting emails from people
describing how they are sitting down to roast chicken, at a table in a warm
house, with a nice bottle of vin rouge and so on ! Thanks very much ! Well just
to reciprocate, today we had lunch in a big green mess tent in about 4 degrees
C, and it was a stunningly delectable meal of half a pilchard in tomato sauce
with one thick slice of slightly hard yak cheese and a single sandwich with two
pieces of very old Spam lovingly placed between two slabs of white bread. All
washed down with weak milk tea in a tin mug !
We met an English guy today
who is planning to run from Base Camp to Kathmandu ( 186 miles ) in less than 3
days, 10 hours which is the current world record. The people you meet up here !
So that's it for now. We'll
give it another go, be assured of that, and hope for the very best. Meanwhile I
hope you're all enjoying the roast chicken with rich thick gravy, roasties,
fresh vegetables, pudding.....
All the very Best
Gavin Bate
- Everest Base Camp Thursday
12th May AM
Today a team of 14 people
broke the logjam on the mountain and made Camp 4 South Col and are planning to
go for the summit tonight. We will all be watching carefully to see how they go.
We will be going up tomorrow morning at 5am to once again try for the top of
this hill. We have joined forces with the Mountain Madness team and the Nepalese
Women's Team so that we have greater numbers to get through the expected deep
snow.
The worry is initially getting
up and over the Lhotse Face. Yesterday there was supposed to have been an
avalanche when the Russian were up there, but this turned out to be just a
collapsing serac which damaged a load of badly positioned tents. We are hoping
that our tents are fine !
The weather is about as good
as we can expect - the wind has dropped and swung round to a dry northerly,
which is good for us. The probability of snow is 30% - 50%, but we are going to
live with that. We understand the Lhotse Face is not too bad although there is a
worry about traversing the upper section of the Face in case of avalanche. The
fact that 14 people got over it today is some comfort.
We are hoping that this team
tonight will make a success of their summit attempt and break some sort of trail
up from the Balcony to the South Summit and onto the true summit. We have heard
that there are likely to be other groups going for the top on the 15th or 16th
as well, so we hope to have company.
With great regret and sadness
Michele Santilhano will not be joining the summit team tomorrow. Due to the
restraints of summit day that Everest forces upon every climber, Michele will be
returning back down the hill. She has made it to 23,700' thus far without
oxygen.
The five remaining climbers -
myself, John Barry, Andrew Salter, Polly Murray and Chris Tiso will try our
level best to summit in the coming days. Because of time restraints this is very
probably our last chance to give it a go. Be assured we are primed and ready.
Thanks to all for continued
support. Noel Bristow, our comms manager here, and Greg manning the home HQ
office, will keep you all updated over the coming days as to our progress.
All the very best, Gavin
- Everest Base Camp - 12th
May 2000
The climbing team left Base
Camp this morning at 5:00 AM. The weather is looking good at the moment - low
winds and no snow. They reached Camp 1 (at the top of the Khumbu Icefall) late
in the morning and rested there (sunbathed in fact!) for several hours, before
leaving for Camp 2 (at the head of the Western Cwm). They reached Camp 2 at 5:00
PM from where they radioed down in good spirits - they had managed to miss most
of the heat in the Western Cwm by waiting for the afternoon clouds to come over.
They are now resting at Camp
2, waiting for the next forecast, which we will relay to them later this
evening. If the forecast is favorable they will forego their usual rest day at
Camp 2 and leave for Camp 3 (halfway up the Lhotse Face) tomorrow morning.
We have received news that the
climbers who reached Camp 4 (on the South Col) yesterday did NOT leave for the
summit at midnight and have in fact spent all of today resting in their tents,
from where they will leave for the summit at around midnight. They did not leave
for the summit as they arrived at the South Col quite late in the afternoon
yesterday. We hope that the weather holds for them as they will be fixing ropes
from Babu's high point of a week ago, which will make life easier for our team.
It means that our team and Sherpas will not have to expend valuable energy
fixing these ropes.
Noel Bristow
Everest Update 5/13/2000
The climbing team spent a relaxing day
at Camp 2 in preparation for their summit bid. The Sherpas spent their day
at Base Camp before they go up to Camp 2 tomorrow. Whereas the team will go
from Camps 2 to 3 to 4 and then to the summit, the Sherpas will go from Base
Camp to Camp 2, then Camp 4, charging straight past Camp 3. At Camp 4 they
will catch up with the team and join them on their Summit Day.
A team attempted to reach the summit
today but only got as far as the Balcony (about halfway to the summit from
Camp 4) where the fixed ropes end. This means that there have been no
successful attempts to reach the top this year. So far, the teams have been
hampered on their final summit day by the snow laying thick underfoot. The
energy it takes to break trail is phenomenal at that altitude, even if the
snow is only inches deep. Two or more teams set off today from Camp 2 to
Camp 3 and they are planning to try and summit on the 15th May. They are
going to try to share the work of breaking trail to increase their chances
of success. Our team will follow them a day later and hope that they will
benefit from being able to follow in several people's footsteps.
We have just talked to the team at Camp
2 (it is 6 o'clock in the evening here in Nepal) and they are definitely
setting off for Camp 3 tomorrow. Hooray! The summit attempt has begun..
Cheers Amanda
Today, as planned, the climbing
team left Camp 2 at 6 o'clock this morning and set off up the Lhotse Face to
Camp 3. They arrived at Camp 3 around lunch time to find the tent with all the
kit in buried in snow. It took them one hour to dig out the tent but the
contents were intact. They were then able to get in the tents, eat, drink and
rest.
The Sherpas set off from Base
Camp at 6 o'clock this morning and arrived at Camp 2 at 11 o'clock. They also
spent the day resting in preparation for their long climb to Camp 4 tomorrow.
We spoke to the climbing team
and the Sherpas this evening and gave them the latest weather forecast. The
forecast predicted good weather and the whole team plan to set off for Camp 4
tomorrow morning, with a view to summiting on May 16th. They all aim to arrive
at Camp 4 about midday where they will rest, eat and drink until about 11
o'clock that evening when they will start their summit bid.
Cheers
Amanda
AT 11:00AM 16TH
MAY, ANDY SALTER, JOHN BARRY AND POLLY MURRAY SUMMITED MOUNT EVEREST WITH
THE SHERPAS JANGBU AND PEMBA GALGIN.
CONGRATULATIONS TO
ONE AND ALL IN THE TEAM AND A SAFE JOURNEY DOWN AMANDA
Update: Summit
Day Update 4pm
All the team are now
back at the South Col (Camp 4) and are fit and well. They will come down to Camp
2 tomorrow and Base Camp the day after. Apparently, the Korean team is saying
they fixed the rope on the Hillary Step, not our team, and that they summited 50
minutes before us.
The team summited and
is safe and well. If they got there first, that is a bonus. I am sure the
climbers from both our team and the Catalan team, which we were told were close
behind us, will sort out the mystery when they get safely back to base camp. The
Catalan Base Camp team's response was "who cares as long as we made
it?" I agree. I will let you know as soon as I know one way or the other.
Gavin Bate, the leader
of the expedition, was suffering from a chest infection and was unable to make
the final ascent of the Hillary Step.
Cheers Amanda
- The Millennium
Seven Summits Expedition www.7-2000.co.uk
lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry.
Gavin and the team
arrived back in Base camp a couple of hours ago. he is elated to have organized
the team who were the FIRST to summit from the Nepal side this new Millennium. I
can confirm that they fixed the ropes and were the first to summit. The plan to
leave tomorrow and return home on 24th., stopping for an invite to have drinks
with the British Ambassador. Brian
Update: Thursday
18th May
How do you put it into
words ? We've just walked down from Mount Everest to Base Camp. From the top of
Mount Everest. As I came down the last few hundred feet of the Icefall, knowing
that it would be the last time, that we were safe, that the mountain had let us
pass, with our faces burnt and blistered, our legs weak as boiled spaghetti,
coughing still, eyes red-rimmed from the UV at 29,000 feet and still not really
believing what we have just been through, I admit that tears blurred my vision.
All day as we slowly
came off the mountain people coming up stopped and congratulated us, but as we
came into Base Camp the reception was marvelous. People applauding, shaking our
hands, asking us questions, hugging us - it was incredible, emotional,
wonderful.
We, the Brit team of
the Millennium Seven Summits were the first to summit Mount Everest by the South
side in the new Millennium and the news has spread like absolute wildfire. The
satellite phone has not stopped ringing ! Newspapers, radio, television -
everyone is onto us. The British Ambassador is Kathmandu has invited us to
drinks at the Embassy when we get back - God, what to wear ! You cannot imagine
how much we smell, how exhausted we are, how we look !
I intend to give you
all a more detailed account later on about the whole summit push but this is
just a quick summary since I know a lot of people will be waiting to hear first
hand news, although I want to make especial mention of Amanda here now, who has
done a fantastic job of dealing with the avalanche of emails and telephone calls
that have been pouring in since the summit.
John Barry, Polly
Murray, Andy Salter and myself made it to the South Col, possibly the most
inhospitable, wind-swept and potentially dangerous place you could think of at
26,000' and collapsed onto oxygen bottles to rest. Even at this height
everything else looked small. It was amazing but at the same time very tense.
There is absolutely no doubt that here is a place where humans are NOT supposed
to be. We set off at 10.00pm and started up the mountain. Imagine being at just
over 8000 meters and STILL having the height of Ben Nevis to climb, oxygen masks
clamped to freezing faces, bright moonlight lighting the way ( anyone interested
in Buddhist and Tibetan mythology would be interested to know that the full moon
was in our favor with the Gods, and six planets were in alignment - apparently
good - and the Sherpas were happy with the whole karma of the moment !).
We hadn't eaten in two
days, our liquid intake was minimal ( everything was frozen ), nobody had slept
properly in perhaps four or five days but there was this tremendous enthusiasm
to go for it. Despite the fact that so many people had failed, we tried to put
it from our minds. We reached the Balcony at something like 27,500' and other
people turned back. We literally carried on alone up the most incredible airy
ridge, just as the sun rose over the horizon, and right over Tibet an incredible
electrical storm was stunning to watch. Then we noticed a circular halo of cloud
around the moon - harbinger of bad weather; what to do ? turn back ? carry on ?
On both sides of the ridge we stood on, thousands and thousands of feet below
us, the weather coming in and what to do ? Over Lhotse, masses of cloud pouring
over its summit, unbelievable but so frightening. WHAT to do ?
We decide to carry on
and now the terrain becomes steep and mixed. Our goggles and sunglasses are
misting up, freezing; we can't see anything. Thick gloves trying to wipe ice
from lenses. Can't see your feet, have to stretch your neck to look down to see
where you're going, fumbling with the ropes, trying to get huge gloves round
frozen karabiners, listening to your breath in the mask - loud and intrusive -
and now my mask is stuck to my beard !
At 6am, having climbed
through the night, the storm hit us. I just couldn't believe that we were INSIDE
the lenticular cloud that we've been watching, and avoiding, for weeks. The wind
and the spindrift would rip you off that hill if it had been a little stronger.
We struggled on. A Canadian who had turned back said to us today that he watched
us continue up to the summit and couldn't believe we were doing it. 'Tough as
nails' is the comment made on their website apparently !
We decide to carry on
and now the terrain becomes steep and mixed. Our goggles and sunglasses are
misting up, freezing; we can't see anything. Thick gloves trying to wipe ice
from lenses. Can't see your feet, have to stretch your neck to look down to see
where you're going, fumbling with the ropes, trying to get huge gloves round
frozen karabiners, listening to your breath in the mask - loud and intrusive -
and now my mask is stuck to my beard !
At 6am, having climbed
through the night, the storm hit us. I just couldn't believe that we were INSIDE
the lenticular cloud that we've been watching, and avoiding, for weeks. The wind
and the spindrift would rip you off that hill if it had been a little stronger.
We struggled on. A Canadian who had turned back said to us today that he watched
us continue up to the summit and couldn't believe we were doing it. 'Tough as
nails' is the comment made on their website apparently !
The difference in
height between the two summits is 100 meters. Between the two is the Hillary
Step. Looking at it I felt I could throw a stone at the other summit which
looked heavily corniced. Jangbu Sherpa and Pemba Gyaljen went ahead to put in
some rope. Unfortunately Pemba Rinjen had not arrived - in fact he had only got
as far as the Balcony.
Now came the crux for
me - out of the four I was the slowest because of this damned cough which
doubled me over every ten minutes, and the oxygen which Pemba Rinjen was
supposed to have brought up was now not here. Jangbu and Pemba Gyaljen each had
two bottles for us and we each had one full bottle left. We didn't have enough
oxygen to get all four of us up to the other summit and all down. The choice was
obvious - Andy, John and Polly went on ahead to do the last bit and I sent a
message on the radio to say that the team was on the last leg. I stayed for a
while on the South Summit and headed down. I just can't describe how proud I was
to think of having organized and led such a successful summit of Everest, and
the extra pleasure of being first up on the south side was just fantastic. I
feel a tremendous pride to have stood at such a place - there is no place
higher! - and to have watched three such good friends make the final bit. We
have had such incredible notes of support and congratulations - it has been
overwhelming. Thank you to everyone. I hope to give you a slightly better
version of events later on with pictures, so please keep posted to the site.
We leave Base Camp tomorrow and
it will be a mad two day dash to Kathmandu, where I have a couple of days work
to do and we have an evening soiree with the British Ambassador booked, don't
you know ! Then our flight home, 24th or the 25th. Press conferences await.
especially since Polly Murray is now the first Scotswoman to summit Everest and
has become a national celebrity. So, thank you everyone for your support and I
hope you have enjoyed following our small adventures. Myself and Andy have just
a few days at home and then we're off to Alaska to try and climb Mount McKinley,
the highest peak in North America, the next in line for our Seven Summits. Two
down, five to go !
All the
very best, Gavin Bate
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