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 Summary of New Climbing Regulation In Nepal

The government of Nepal has just recently amended the provisions relating to mountaineering in the kingdom of Nepal and following are the notable provisions:  

1. Climbers below 16 year of age will not be issued permit for climbing in Nepal.

2. 5% of the total permit fee for Mt. Everest and 10% of the total permit fee for other mountains should be paid in advance with the submission of application for the climbing permit. A 'preliminary climbing permit' may be issued if the submitted application is found in order. The time limit to pay the remaining amount to obtain the climbing permit is 1 year from the date 'Preliminary Climbing Permit' is obtained.

3. After a 'Preliminary Climbing Permit' is obtained  and within 3 days against payment of the remaining permit fee, the Ministry  (Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation) shall issue the  climbing permit.

4. For any changes in the expedition members after the Ministry issues the 'preliminary climbing permit', there is a wait of 10 days for the changes to come in to effect.  Peaks below 7000 meter and some peaks in the special category are immune from this provisions. (This means all expedition team needs to be sure of who their expedition members will be in the permit or wait 10 days in Kathmandu!) 

5. Following provisions are arranged for liaison officer, sirdar, climbing sherpa and other Nepalese personnel accompanying the expedition team:

Personal Accident Insurance (Coverage):

Liaison Officer                      Rs. 600,000.00
Sirdar & Climbing Sherpa         Rs. 500,000.00
Workers going above BC         Rs. 400,000.00
Base Camp works                  Rs. 350,000.00
Local workers (porters)           Rs. 250,000.00

(US$ 1.00 is  Rs. 78.00 as of 12 May 2002)

(All above are also required to be insured for a coverage of Rs. 50,000.00 for medical treatment along with insurance overages to meet costs emergency evacuations services in case of an accident )

Daily allowance per day (wages)

Liaison Officer                                 Rs. 500.00
Sirdar & Climbing Sherpa                    Rs. 400.00
Workers going above BC                    Rs. 350.00
Base Camp works                             Rs. 300.00
Local workers ( porters)                     Rs. 250.00
(porters need to be provided with a pair of shoes, a jacket and trouser, a woolen shirt, a sweater, and a pair of gloves.

6.       The expedition garbage has been sorted in 3 categories for proper management:

a) Disposable items such as paper and toilet papers, cardboard, baskets, jute, cotton, food and dead bodies etc should be disposed through local agencies working for waste management directed by the government when available in the area. If such agencies are not available then such items should be disposed properly by the expedition team in presence of the liaison officer or a local representative or sirdar.
b)  Recyclable items such as tin, bottles, plastics, gas cylinders etc
should be handed over for disposal to an agency directed by the government.
c)  Re-exported items such as O2 bottles, used batteries, climbing equipment and personal items should be taken out of Nepal by the expedition team during or before leaving Nepal.

7.       The following deposits are provisioned for the waste management of expedition waste in Annapurna and Khumbu regions:

Mt. Everest                                        US$ 4000.00
Other 8000 meter peaks                    US$ 3000.00
7001 meter ~ 8000 meter peaks       US$ 2000.00
6501 meter ~ 7000 meter peaks       US$ 1000.00
Peaks below 6500 meter                    US$   500.00

For peaks below 8000 meter in other regions, the deposit for waste management is set at US$ 500.00

This deposit can be made in equivalent Nepali Rupees and refundable to the expedition team after the expedition.  Letter from the concerned Waste Management Agency is required for this purpose. 

8.  Provision is being included for total and partial waiving off of the permit royal fee for peaks in the following category:

a) climbing of peak during 'off season' when climbers density is low
b) peaks situated in regions which are economically and socially backward
c) peaks that can be little technical difficulty and in less amount of time

The official off-season is from Jestha 15 to Bhadra 15 Nepali Era which roughly corresponds to 30 May to 30 August

9.  The new permit royalty system for Mt. Everest for the popular SE ridge route is as follow:

1 Climber                            US$ 25,000.00
2 Climber                            US$ 40,000.00
3. Climber                           US$ 48,000.00
4. Climber                           US$ 56,000.00
5 Climber                            US$ 60,000.00
6 Climber                            US$ 66,000.00
7 Climber                            US$ 70,000.00

For other routes on Everest, the permit royalty fee is set at US$ 50,000.00 for a team consisting up to 7 climbers.  The number of climbers in 1 permit is limited to 12 climbers. 

Additional climbers above 7 are charges as below:

a) Mt. Everest any routes      US$ 10,000.00
b) Peaks above 8000 meter  US$ 15,00.00
c) Peaks above 7501 meter ~ 8000 meter                       US$ 500.00
d) Peaks above 7001 meter ~ 7500 meter                       US$ 300.00
e) Peaks above 6501 meter ~ 7000 meter                       US$ 200.00

10. Climbing Permit for a particular peak can be transformed for another peak or postponed for a maximum period of 2 years for the same peak.  Even though additional permit royalty fee required to change for a new peak is collected there no provision of any refund for permit changes.

11.Expedition team shall descend to base camp within following duration from the day it leaves Kathmandu for the mountain:

a) 75 days for peaks above 8000 meter
b) 60 days for peaks between 7000 meter ~ 8000 meter.
c) 45 days for peaks below 7000 meter

A 15 day extension may be allowed upon the expedition team's request for located other than in Khumbu, Annapurna & Manaslu region.

With this new provision expedition teams are free to choose any time of the year they would like to climb the mountain.  Earlier the permit were isssued only for a particular time of year on seasonal basis.  

12.Liaison officers are now not required for peaks below 6500 m.

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