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Update
11/5/01: 2002 Banff Mountain Summit to Celebrate
International Year of the Mountains
Mountain
Culture at The Banff Centre announced today its
programs for Banff Mountain Summit 2002 - Extreme
Landscape: Challenge and Celebration, a special
three-day event that will be held from October 27 to
29 next year.
"The
Summit will explore how extreme landscapes shape
people's lives and how people impact extreme
landscape," says Bernadette McDonald,
vice-president, Mountain Culture, The Banff Centre.
The event will include respected mountain authors,
scientists, dancers, musicians, anthropologists and
filmmakers. "Each Summit guest has a passion for
mountain places and has translated that passion into
creative endeavours, environmental and scientific
research, and critical thinking," McDonald notes.
The event will be also be part of Parks Canada's
nation-wide initiative to mark IYM.
Speakers
at the Summit will include award-winning author Gretel
Ehrlich, mountaineer, author and parliamentarian
Reinhold Messner, author and ethnobotanist Wade Davis,
specialist on sacred mountains Edwin Bernbaum,
cultural photographer Chris Rainier, Canadian poet and
singer Sid Marty, climber and founder of Patagonia
Yvon Chouinard, adventurer Will Gadd, leading
authority on international peace parks Jim Thorsell
and conservationist George Schaller.
Update
11/3/01: Edwardian Climbing Novel Takes Top Prize at
Banff Mountain Book Festival
"Hazard's
Way" by Roger Hubank is the winner of the 2001
Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, the $2000
Phyllis and Don Munday Award sponsored by the Alberta
Sections of the Alpine Club of Canada. The festival
awards were presented on Thursday, November 1. A novel
set around the turn of the 19th century,
"Hazard's Way" tells the story of a young
man's struggles to cope with strict Edwardian family
values and the contradictory influences of the friends
he makes in his life as a climber. At the heart of the
novel is an evocative recreation of life at Wasdale
Head in the Peak District in Derbyshire,
England.
Other
2001 Banff Mountain Book Festival Awards included:
"Kiss
or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber", Mark
Twight, The Mountaineers Books wins the Jon Whyte
Award for Mountain Literature. Dawson Stelfox says
Kiss or Kill "is an insight into the mind of one
of the great climbers of this generation."
Best
Book - is awarded to "Fifty
Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick
List", Mark Kroese, The Mountaineers Books .
Maria Coffey comments, "I like the way we get to
know each climber, and learn about their chosen climb
through both their personal experience of it and the
comprehensive route description."
Best
Book - Adventure Travel - goes to "Arctic
Crossing: A Journey through the Northwest Passage and
Inuit Culture", Jonathan Waterman, Random
House of Canada Ltd. According to Maria Coffey,
"Waterman gives a refreshingly honest account of
Inuit life, warts and all, which I found both
fascinating and highly educational."
"The
High Himalaya", Art Wolfe The
Mountaineers Books, wins the award for Best Book -
Mountain Image, "Visually, a superb book,"
says Maria Coffey. "Wolf brilliantly portrays so
many facets of Himalayan culture and landscape. This
is the work of an artist with a great passion for the
places and people he captures on film."
"Raven's
End", Ben Gadd, McClelland & Stewart
(Canada, 2001) wins the Canadian Rockies Award for the
best book on the local area, sponsored by Eagle Creek
Travel Gear. This award is chosen by a local book
festival awards committee.
Update
10/24/01: Record Number of Films Entered in 2001 Banff
Mountain Film Festival
The
challenge of mountain adventures, the strength of
mountain peoples, and the inspiration of mountain
landscapes highlight the finalists in this year's
Banff Mountain Film Festival. From the 250 films
representing 27 countries entered in the 2001
competition, 39 finalists will be screened at the
festival in Banff. The Banff Mountain Film Festival
takes place October 29-November 4.
"The
sheer volume of films entered this year was staggering
- and the quality matched the volume," says
Bernadette McDonald, festival director and
Vice-president, Mountain Culture at The Banff Centre.
"From historical documentaries on the great
adventures of Shackleton and Whymper to the esoteric
sports of tower jumping and unicycling, and from the
grizzlies of British Columbia to the war torn border
between Afghanistan and Pakistan, the overall quality
of this year's films is higher than at any time in the
history of the festival: the cinematography, the
writing, the editing, the soundtracks - and, over and
over again, the incredibly well told
stories!"
An
international jury will meet during festival week to
select the winners in six categories and to choose a
Grand Prize winner. The 2001 jury includes: George
Band (U.K.), Gauthier Flauder (France), Antonio
Cembran (Italy), Harish Kapadia (India) and Sharon
Wood (Canada). The festival audience will vote for the
People's Choice Award. Winners will be announced on
Sunday, November 4, at 7:30 p.m.
This
year's finalists are:
ALPINE
CLUB OF CANADA AWARD FOR BEST FILM ON CLIMBING,
SPONSORED BY THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA - FINALISTS
Beyond Gravity, Directors: Sean White/Aaron
Black/Aaron Jackson,
Desert Friction, Director: Nic Good, Producer: Brian
Valentine,
La grande cordée, Director: Gilles Chappaz,
Lo domanderò alla montagna (I Will Ask It to the
Mountain), Director:
Francesco Paladino,
Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2, Producer: Mick
Conefrey,
Mountain Men: The Misfit and the Matterhorn, Producer:
Mick Conefrey,
Salathé - Blood, Sweat and Bagels, Director: Richard
Heap,
Stick It, Director: Ben Pritchard, Producer: Richard
Heap,
The Last Ascent, Producer: Jonathan Halperin,
BEST
FILM ON MOUNTAIN CULTURE, - FINALISTS
Carrying the Burden, Director/Producer: Sangita
Manandhar, BBC (U.K.)
Into the Forbidden Zone, Producers: Richard MacKenzie,
Charles Poe, Jody
Schiliro,
Great North, Directors: Martin Dignard, Bill Reeves,
Producer: Martin
Dignard,
In the Light of Reverence, Director/Producer:
Christopher McLeod,
Mustang, Director/Producer: Pavol Barabas,
Salt - Tears of the Earth, Director: Wolfgang Thaler,
Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure, Director: George
Butler,
BEST
FILM ON MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT,
FINALISTS
Africa Extreme, Producers: Robin Freeman, Michael Fay,
Michael Nichols,
Gelada Baboons - The Battles of Braveheart,
Director/Producer: Mark
Linfield, Green Umbrella Ltd. (U.K.)
Grizzly - Face to Face,
Rafting Alaska's Wildest Rivers, Director/Producer:
Chip Duncan,
Torngats -- The Hidden Mountains, Director: Andrew
Manske, Producer: Albert Karvonen,
Wild Asia: At the Edge, Producer: Alan D'Arcy Erson,
Hamburg Fernseh Allianz (New Zealand)
Yellowstone - America's Sacred Wilderness,
Directors/Producers: Hugh Miles,
Shane Moore,
BEST
FILM ON MOUNTAIN SPORTS, - FINALISTS
1140, Director/Producer: Randy Waldschmidt, Production
Company: Resident
Films (U.S.A.)
African B.A.S.E., Director: Nic Good, Producer: Brian
Valentine,
BASE Heads, Directors: Steve Winter, Murray Wais,
Scott Gaffney, Producer: Matchstick Productions,
(U.S.A.)
Berserk in the Antarctic, Director: Kaare Skard,
High Velocity, Directors: David McMahon, Lise Meloche,
Jump!, Directors/Producers: Allen Hill/John Catto,
Kjerag, Director: Tom Day, Producer: Mike Hatchett,
Dave Barlia,
Meloncholy Summer, Director: Conor Colwell,
Mind the Addiction, Directors: Dirk Collins, Todd
Jones, Steve Jones,
Orange Unplugged, Director: Nic Good, Producer: Brian
Valentine,
Timeless, Director/Producer: Dominique Perret,
Will Gadd - This is Your Life, Directors: Melissa
Forman, Pat Morrow,
Producer: Melissa Forman,
BEST MOUNTAIN FICTION FILM, FINALISTS
A Time for Drunken Horses, Director/Producer: Bahmar
Ghobadi,
Christmas in the Clouds, Director: Kate Montgomery,
Producers: Kate
Montgomery, Mitchell Stein,
Songcatcher, Director/Producer: Maggie Greenwald, Gate
Films (U.S.A.)
The Cup, Director: Khyentse Norbu,
To order tickets for festival events, contact the
Banff Centre Box Office at
403-762-6301 or 1-800-413-8368
Update
10/8/2001: Finalists Announced for 2001 Banff Mountain
Book Festival
From
the high Himalaya to the frozen wastes of Antarctica,
from kayaking adventures to jungle explorations, this
year's finalists for the 8th annual Banff Mountain
Book Festival bring mountain stories to life through
their words and images. A pre-screening committee has
selected 34 finalists from 122 entries representing 10
countries including Canada, the USA, the UK,
Australia, Germany, India, Italy, Singapore, Slovenia,
and South Africa.
"We're
thrilled by the response to this year's competition.
Every year the field of entries grows, a testament to
the book festival's international reputation and the
popularity of mountain literature," said
Bernadette McDonald, vice-president, Mountain Culture,
The Banff Centre.
The
Banff Mountain Book Festival, presented by Canadian
Mountain Holidays,
runs October 31 - November 4, 2001 in conjunction with
the 26th annual Banff Mountain Film Festival (October
29 - November 4, 2001).
A
number of finalist authors will be featured at the
2000 festivals including Brenda Fowler, Ed
Webster, Simon Yates, Jon Bowermaster, Julie Summers,
Mark Kroese, Harish Kapadia, Ken Belford, and Rick
Ridgeway.
The
book festival jury includes Maria Coffey, author of
"Fragile Edge", Margaret Foster, former
editor-in-chief of The Mountaineers Books, and Dawson
Stelfox, the first Irishman to summit Everest. Winners
of the following awards will be announced at the
festival during the evening book festival presentation
on November 1.
Mountain
Literature Finalists:
"American
Rock: Region, Rock, and Culture in American
Climbing", Don Mellor,
Countryman Press (USA, 2001)
"Below
Another Sky: A Mountain Adventure in Search of a Lost
Father", Rick
Ridgeway, Henry Holt and Company, Inc. (USA, 2001)
"A
Brief History of British Mountaineering", Colin
Wells for the Mountain Heritage Trust, British
Mountaineering Council and Mountain Heritage Trust
(UK, 2001)
"Denali:
A Literary Anthology", edited by Bill Sherwonit,
The Mountaineers Books (USA, 2000)
"Fearless
on Everest: The Quest for Sandy Irvine", Julie
Summers, The Mountaineers Books (USA, 2001)
"The
Flame of Adventure", Simon Yates, Random House UK
(UK, 2001)
"Hazard's
Way", Roger Hubank, The Ernest Press (Scotland,
2001)
"History
of the Great Mountaineering Adventures", Stefano
Ardito, White Star (Italy, 2000)
"Iceman:
Uncovering the Life and Times of Prehistoric Man Found
in an Alpine Glacier", Brenda Fowler, Random
House Inc. (USA, 2000)
"Kiss
or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber", Mark
Twight, The Mountaineers Books (USA, 2001)
"Pathways
into the Mountains", Ken Belford, Caitlin Press
Inc. (Canada,2000)
"Raven's
End", Ben Gadd, McClelland & Stewart (Canada,
2001)
"Snow
in the Kingdom - My Storm Years on Everest", Ed
Webster, Mountain Imagery (USA, 2000)
"Touch
the Top of the World: A Blind Man's Journey to Climb
Farther Than the Eye Can See", Erik Weihenmayer,
Dutton (USA, 2001)
"Touching
My Father's Soul: A Sherpa's Journey to the Top of
Everest", Jamling Tenzing Norgay et al., Harper
San Francisco (USA, 2001)
Update
10/1/2001: Mountain Author and Historian Wins 2001
Bill March Summit of Excellence Award
Bob
Sandford, well known Banff historian, author and
interpreter, is this
year's recipient of the Bill March Summit of
Excellence Award sponsored by One Step Beyond
WorldWide. Sandford will be honoured during an awards
ceremony at the 2001 Banff Mountain Film Festival on
Sunday evening, November 4, 2001.
"Bob
Sandford is a unique character," says Bernadette
McDonald, Director of Mountain Culture programming at
The Banff Centre. "His passion for mountain
places and his talent for communicating with people
have made him an irresistible force for positive
change in the mountain community. " Originally
from Calgary, Bob Sandford made his first professional
foray into the Rocky Mountains in 1970 when he worked
as a seasonal park naturalist in Banff National Park.
That year Bob had an adventure that changed his life -
for good. It's a well-known, often disbelieved, but
true story: Bob, in his smooth-soled cowboy boots,
slipped into a crevasse on the Saskatchewan Glacier,
travelled for approximately half a kilometre
throughout the sub-glacial drainage pipes, only to
emerge relatively unscathed at the toe of the glacier.
Bob's glacial rebirth has informed his life's work,
his passion for story-telling and, probably, his sense
of humour for which he is also famous!
Bob's
work has always been about communicating a sense of
mountain place and that has taken him into many areas
in which he has excelled. His early audio-visual
programs were well ahead of their time, he has
authored 15 books on the natural and human heritage of
Western Canada, he has been involved in several films,
and has curated exhibitions on themes as diverse as
"The Faces of Field" to "A Terrible
Beauty: The Great Bear in Jasper". He helped
create the Heritage Tourism concept which aims to
connect every visitor to the National Parks with the
area's unique mountain heritage. This successful
program has been embraced by businesses, Parks Canada
and the public. His vision of re-aligning the
direction of tourism with National Park goals has
resulted in programs that have connected mountain
communities from Golden, British Columbia to the
Japanese Alpine Club of Tokyo, Japan. Bob is
Vice-President of Publications for the Alpine Club of
Canada, is Historian-in-Residence for Fairmont Hotels
and is on the International Advisory Committee for
Mountain Culture at The Banff Centre. Past recipients
of the award include: Chic Scott (2000), Guy Lacelle
(1999), John Martin (1998), Sharon Wood (1997), Tim
Auger (1996), Brian Greenwood (1995), Kiwi Gallagher
(1994), Roger Vernon (1993), Jon Whyte (1992), Don
Forest (1991), Pat Morrow (1990), Hans Gmoser (1989),
Jim Davies (1988) and Bruno Engler (1987).
Update
9/23/2001: Mountain Projects from Nepal to Banff
Receive Grants
From
a Sherpa museum in Namche Bazar, Nepal, to a book
celebrating the legacy of Canadian mountain
photographer Bruno Engler, the projects receiving
funding through this year's Banff Centre for Mountain
Culture grant program reflect the rich diversity of
the world's mountain cultures. The Centre annually
awards grant money - a total of $23,000 (CAD)
this year -- to projects that creatively communicate
the special nature and culture of the mountain places.
"We
are happy to be able to support these grass-roots
projects that reflect the commitment of people around
the world to preserving and celebrating the world's
mountain areas," said Leslie Taylor,
associate director of the Banff Centre for Mountain
Culture.
This
year's selection committee reviewed 31 grant
applications from 10 countries. The 2001 grant
recipients are: Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa of Nepal - $5000 -
for the purchase of 40 copper prayer wheels for and
sundry structural improvements to a museum of Sherpa
Culture
in Namche Bazar, Nepal.
Ed
Douglas and Ray Wood of the United Kingdom - $5000 -
for the creation of an AV presentation, photo
exhibition, articles, and research for a book on the
Cairngorm range in Scotland.
Serena
Rix of Australia - $2500 - to support the making and
distribution of two videos on sustainable trekking,
intended for viewing by trekkers and porters in Nepal.
Trevor
McFadyen of Canada and Taiwan - $4000 - to support the
creation of a curriculum-based, Internet-distributed
edukit on the Snow Leopard. This edukit will be
aimed at Canadian students in Grades 7 - 9.
Vera
Matrasova-Engler and Susan Engler Potts of Canada -
$3500 - to support research and photo compilation for
the publication of a book of the photography of Bruno
Engler.
Guy
Clarkson of Canada - $3000 - to support the film
project "The Shining Mountains" which will
introduce the natural and cultural history of the
Canadian Rockies to Banff visitors.
The
Banff Centre for Mountain Culture grants are awarded
annually.
Update
9/11/2001: Dan Mazur plans to attempt Kangchenjunga in
Spring 2002. For his others climbs planned see the classified
ads.
Update
8/28/2001: Chris Bonington is back ! He is headed to
"Ladakh in Northwest India. The team (UK and
America) is expected to attempt several 6000 meter
peaks in the area. For more see his
web site.
Update
8/21/2001: On 3 August the Italia Emilio Previtali
snowboarded off the summit of Pik Lenin 7134 m, via a
new line directly down the North Face. Just a day
previously, team member Luca Dalla Palma (who,
together with Elena Spalenza formed this three-man
expedition) descended via the Normal route from 6500m
using telemark skies.
The
trio had left Italy on 17 July for Kirghizistan and
reached Base Camp at Achik-Tash, 3700 m on 19 July.
They established their "true home", Camp 1
at 4200m one day later, before pushing up to Camp 2 at
5200m on 23 July and Camp 3 at 6100m at Pik Razdelnaya.
From here the Normal route continues via the western
crest to the summit of Pik Lenin.
Bad
weather forced the trio to postpone their summit bid,
but on 1 August Luca Dalla Palma and Elena Spalenza
left directly for Camp 3. The next day Luca reached
the summit and teklemarked from 6500m. Elena's attempt
stopped at 6500m, where she too descended.
On 3
August Emilo Previtali's dream came true as he reached
the summit and snowboarded down the immense 8km wide
North Face to Camp 1 - a height difference of 2900m!
Emilio had the following to say about his
extraordinary (and demanding) 35°- 50° descent
"Can
you imagine my joy when I finally reached the bottom
of the face and turned around to see my tiny traces in
that immense sea of white? It's a great and rare
privilege, the mountain let me pass and I slid down
its slopes, feeling her cold breath. I'm sure that she
noticed me, but she let me go. Like an elephant and an
ant."
Further
information http://www.freeridespirit.com/
Update
8/12/2001: Summit of Pik Lenin 7134 m & Snowboard
descent through the North Face for Emilio
Previtali the 3rd of August! Summit & telemark ski
descent from 6500 m belong the normal route for Luca
dalla Palma the 2nd of August. Telemark ski descent
from 6500 m belong the normal route for Elena Spalenza
the 2nd of August. More on www.freeridespirit.com
Update
8/3/2001: A High Profile death on Rainier
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20010803/us/editor_climbing_fatal_1.html
Update
8/1/2001: Nepal Airlines cancels LEASE AGREEMENT WITH
CHINA SOUTHWEST AIRLINES
RNAC
stopping its regular Europe flights from 2nd September
2001. Royal Nepal Airlines has decided to withdraw its
regular Europe flights with effect from 2nd Sept,
after they decided to cancel the agreement with China
South West Airlines on Tuesday. The feud came over
after Royal Nepal Airlines failed to pay the aircraft
lease money overdue since January 2001. It is likely
that if RNAC is unable to pay the lease dues in time
governed by the agreement, China South West may put up
this matter in the International Court for justice.
The Nepalese airlines on the other hand are having
emergency meeting to release the Chinese aircraft 757
as early as possible.
In a
meeting held at the Ministry of Tourism and Civil
Aviation, a notice has been issued to RNAC to settle
the matter within 7 days time. RNAC has to pay US$
fifty hundred thousand (US$ 50,00000) for leasing the
China South West aircraft for the duration of last six
months.
After
the breakup of aircraft lease agreement with
Lauda Air recently , RNAC was running its services
with three Boeings only on its fleet for International
flights which included the China South West aircraft.
Only
two Boeings will now continue operating its flight
after the returning of CSWA aircraft.
RNAC
operated its daily flight since 1987 to London, Paris
and Frankfort. It also operated its three times a week
flight via Dubai to Europe. With this closing of
International flights already in place, RNAC has
called all its staffs to return back to Kathmandu from
Europe by 2nd Sept 2001.
Reliable
sources claim that RNAC is in debt of more than one
million US$
from the European flights only.
Complied
by Bikrum Pandey, a Himalayan Travel Professional, for
Agents, Operators and Nepal Loving Community of
the world. 01st August, 2001
Update
7/12/2001: Himalayan Climbers Headline 2001 Banff
Mountain Film Festival
Three
generations of Himalayan climbers will share their
stories of adventure at this year's Banff Mountain
Film Festival. Mexican mountaineer Carlos Carsolio,
Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar, and Himalayan veteran
George Band will be featured speakers at the 26th
annual festival. The festival takes place October 29
and 30, and November 2 to 4 in Banff, Alberta.
"Mountains
inspire stories of courage and adventure. Through this
festival we offer audiences an opportunity to
experience that adventure through films, speakers and
seminars," says Bernadette McDonald, director of
mountain culture programming and vice president, The
Banff Centre, which hosts the festival. The festival
is presented by Eagle Creek Travel Gear and National
Geographic Society.
At
the heart of the festival are the world's best
mountain films and videos, entered annually in the
festival's internationally-juried competition. Between
30 and 40 of the best films entered into competition
are selected for screening throughout the festival
week.
This
year's program highlights include:
Carlos
Carsolio Friday, November 2, 8 p.m.
Carlos
Carsolio has reached the summit of all 14 of the
world's 8000 meter peaks - all without supplemental
oxygen - yet his name is virtually unknown outside his
native Mexico. He is known for fast, light climbs
including solo ascents of Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Broad
Peak and Gasherbrum II. From their home on a
mountainside outside Mexico City, Carlos and his wife,
Elsa, regularly travel to the world's highest places
in the Himalayas, the Karakoram, Patagonia, the Andes,
and Baffin Island. Carlos will talk about his life as
a mountaineer at the Friday film festival
presentation.
Tomaz
Humar Saturday, November 3, 8 p.m.
Slovenian
climber Tomaz Humar conquers the impossible. Humar's
notable ascents include the South Face of Dhaulagiri,
the West Face of Nuptse, "Reticent Wall" on
El Capitan, and a new route on Ama Dablam. In the past
decade he has made over 1200 ascents, of which more
than 50 were new routes. Tomaz Humar will explain how
he is changing the definition of extreme climbing at
his Saturday evening presentation.
Retro
Reels: George Band Saturday, November 3, 8
p.m.
George
Band's love for the Himalayas stretches over fifty
years. In 1953, he was the youngest member of the
expedition team that supported Sir Edmund Hillary and
Tenzing Norgay's first ascent of Mount Everest. Two
years later, Band and Joe Brown made the first ascent
of Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest peak.
Using slides and footage from the 1955 BBC film
"Ascent of Kangchenjunga", produced by David
Attenborough, Band will tell the story of that first
ascent at the Saturday evening Retro Reels
program.
Sunday
Evening Awards Program Sunday, November 4,
7:30 p.m.
The
festival reaches a peak on Sunday night when the film
festival's international jury announces the Best of
the Festival award winners. Winning films are
re-screened, and the One Step Beyond Summit of
Excellence Award is presented to an individual who has
made an outstanding contribution to the mountain
world.
New
this year This year, for the first time, the film
festival will offer events on Monday and Tuesday
nights, as well as the traditional
Friday-through-Sunday schedule. The Monday night
presentation is Radical Reels - a collection of
adrenaline-packed mountain films including the world's
wildest skiing, boarding, mountain biking, and
kayaking films. On Tuesday night the festival presents
Mountain Films, Mountain Friends a themed selection of
mountain films, followed by an informal reception for
festival-goers.
Update
6/28/2001:
Chinese plan to blaze Olympic trail to Everest
"Beijing
Olympic officials are planning for two climbers, one
from Tibet and the other from elsewhere in China, to
climb to the top of Mount Everest with the Olympic
flame where the Tibetan climber will hand it over to
his Chinese partner in a symbolic act of friendship
before the flame is taken on a tour of the
country." See here.
Update
6/23/2001:
This week, the advice not to visit Nepal has been
lifted by the Foreign & Commonwealth office which
is a great relief to all those who are planning to
trek or climb there this autumn.
Update
6/7/2001: The
curfew is off and on. However, most of the Everest climbers are
getting out with Simonson, Warner, and most home. A
few are still in Kathmandu, but almost all are now
out.
see
the Mountain
Experience Everest Expedition dispatches for
more.
Update
6/6/2001: Meteora is indeed one of the most magical
and most historic places in all of Europe. The rock
climbing there is also among the best and most unusual
in Europe and it would be a terrible loss if there was
any ban on climbing on Meteora's cliffs.
Rockclimbing
at Meteora - one of the areas of Greece that has
gained an international reputation for its outstanding
rock climbing routes in a magnificent setting - is now
under threat. The national archaeological service,
with the support of the church, is pushing for a law
banning climbing in the area.
Thousands
of climbers, both Greek and foreign visit the area
every year. Aware that the area, with monasteries
dating back to the Byzantine period, constitutes a
crucial part of the cultural heritage of Greece, the
approach of climbers is one of respect both for
religious significance of the area and also for the
sensitive local ecosystem.
Having
heard that a presidential decree is being discussed
which would lead to the partial or total banning of
climbing in Meteora, we, the climbing community, want
to make it clear that we will not accept any attempt
to impose such a ban.
Not
only is this the desire of climbers here in Greece but
it is also the wish of the majority of interested
parties in the local town of Kalabaka and in the area
of Meteora generally, not least because the influx of
climbers plays an important part in the local economy.
For
these reasons we insist that rock climbing be allowed
to continue as it has done up till now. The rocks that
don't lead up to monasteries in use should remain open
for the sort of respectful climbing that has taken
place there since the first routes were put up.
We
call upon climbers both in Greece and internationally
to help in the opposition to the ban by sending
e-mails of protest to the following addresses:
Aris
Theodoropoulos
Update
6/5/2001: The
curfew is back on at noon today in Kathmandu due to at
least three deaths in Kathmandu and more riots...
see
the Mountain
Experience Everest Expedition dispatch for
more.
NEWSFLASH
6/4/2001 9:30PM US time: Tuesday
morning 6/5/2001 in Nepal, EverestNews.com
just got off the phone with Bikrum Pandey in Nepal.
Bikrum, tells EverestNews.com. "things are better
today, the curfew is over this morning". The airport
should be open today."
NEWSFLASH
6/4/2001:
Riots and tear gas in the streets of Kathmandu has
caused a tense day in Kathmandu today. Some climbers
had their plans to leave Nepal canceled due to the
airlines canceling. One of our most trusted sources in
Nepal reports "You may have heard the Royal
Massacre in Nepal. We have 2 new Kings in 3
days." I am locked in within my house, and I have
your Tel number in office. Can you e-mail me your Tel
number, so that I can call you from my home
confinement. Thanks for your understanding."
Expect
things to settle down in a few days...
NEWSFLASH
6/1/2001:
Several members (9 or more) of the Nepal Royal family
have been killed,
including the king and queen. According to
reports in Nepal, the Crown Prince killed his family
because of a dispute about his marriage.
Update
5/29/2001: Everest Golden Jubilee CELEBRATION!
We
wish to bring to your kind attention that Nepal will
be celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the "First
Conquest of Mount Everest" by late Tenzing Norgay
Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary on 29th of May 1953.To
commemorate that Historic Day Nepal has constituted a
Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebration Committee,
and are pleased to inform you that Sir Edmund
Hillary has consented to be the Honorary President of
the said committee.
The
committee has decided to celebrate this mometous
occasion for one calendar year starting from June 2002
to May 2003 by holding various programmes and events
as stated below:
1.Everest
Marathon from Everest Base Camp to Namchhe Bazaar. -
end October 2002
2.Mountain Biking on the foothills of Everest. It will
take you up to Kalapathar.
- beginning September 2002
3.White Water Rafting along with Kayaking at the Bhote
Koshi River.-end September 2002
4.Paragliding at the scenic city of Pokhara. - March
2003
5.Himalayan Hot Air Ballooning at Kathmandu - April
2003
6.Rock Climbing at the Langtang National Park and on
the laps of Langtang peaks. -February 2003
7.Ten Pin Bowling at Kathmandu. - July 2002
8.International Golf Festival.- end November 2002
9.Exhibition of Films/Documentaries on Mountains,
Mountaineering,
Adventure Sports etc etc - August 2002
10.Mountaineering Philetelic / Photograph Exhibition -
May 2003
11.Inter Collegiate Athletic Meet - June 2002
12.Invitational Football Tournament - May 2003
13.Classic Car Rally from London to Kathmandu -
September 2002
14.Elephant Polo - December 2002
15.Masters' Cricket Extravaganza - April 2003
16.Gathering of Mount Everest Summiteers - end May
2003
For further details on the events mentioned above
please visit our web site www.mteverestgolden50.com.
With regard to the gathering we are attaching herewith
the proposed programme for your information. For
further details please contact us or visit the
website. We are pleased to inform you that Sir Edmund
Hillary will be in Nepal during the period of the
gathering.
Sincerely,
Shiva P Shah
Executive Member
Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebration Committee
Please visit us at www.MtEverestGolden50.com
Nepal
is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the ascent of
Mount Everest by the late Mr. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa
and Sir Edmund Hillary in 2003 (the original ascent
was on May 29, 1953). To commemorate the Golden
Jubilee of that historic day, events and programs will
be held for one calendar year starting from June 1,
2002 to May 31, 2003. The final event of the Golden
jubilee will be the gathering of the Mount Everest
climbers and expedition members, with Sir Edmund
Hillary as honorary president. Other activities
include: A cricket tournament, mountain bike race,
classic car rally (London to Kathmandu), and even
elephant polo (this is not a misprint!).
To
get more information or if you would like to
participate in one of the activities please visit the
web site at www.mteverestgolden50.com
Update
5/15/2001: His Majesty's Government of Nepal has
opened 9 new Peaks for Mountaineering Expeditions to
be effective with this Spring Season 2001.
Interestingly this is the first time that Government
of Nepal has announced opening of new peaks coinciding
with the on going spring season. [Maybe because two
expeditions were planning on attempting Lhotse Middle
!]
The
Newly Opened Peaks are 6 in Solu-Khumbu, one in
Annapurna, one Dhaulagiri and one Manaslu region.
Solu Khumbu Region
Lhotse Middle 8,413 m
Peak 38 7,590 m
Hunchi 7,360 m
Numri 6,677 m
Teng Kangpoche 6,500 m
Nhe Serku 5,927m
Manaslu Region P2 6,251 m
Dhaulagiri Region Thapa Peak 6,012 m
Annapurna Region Thorang Peak 5,7 51 m
Reported by: HIMALAYA Center / Kathmandu
15 May 2001
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A
COUPLE OF PRESS RELEASES: from Mountain Madness
MOUNT
EVEREST ANNIVERSARY DATE APPROACHES
Seattle,
WA. March 25, 2001.
As chronicled in John Krakauer’s book
“Into Thin Air”, the 1996 Everest climbing
season was marred with tragedy.
An unfortunate chain of events would lead
to five deaths in the story told by Krakauer.
The fifth anniversary of this tragic
season is May 10, 2001.
No formal ceremony is planned, but the
many touched by the lives of those who died will
observe this important date.
Scott
Fischer of Seattle was the expedition leader for
his company Mountain Madness. Scott was a
founder of Mountain Madness, a company offering
mountaineering and climbing schools and guided
climbs all over the world.
Scott was guiding clients on Everest when
he lost his life in an unexpected storm. As
Krakauer wrote "Everest deals with trespassers harshly: The dead vanish beneath
the snows, while the living struggle to explain
what happened, and why."
Christine
Boskoff, the world's foremost woman alpinist,
subsequently purchased Mountain Madness.
Christine has climbed six of the world's
8,000-meter peaks, including Everest.
Although Mountain Madness will not be on
Everest in 2001, Boskoff will lead an expedition
there in 2002 before making an attempt on
Pakistan’s K2, the second highest and perhaps
most difficult 8,000 meter peak.
Mountain
Madness continues the tradition started by
Fischer of offering premier mountaineering and
climbing schools in the U.S., Bolivia, and
Ecuador. Domestic
and international guided climbing trips are also
available, along with special programs such as
the Seven
Summits and Live Your Dreams.
Mountain
Madness and Christine Boskoff continue to honor
Scott Fischer’s dream by emulating his
enthusiasm for the outdoor world, upholding the
commitment of helping clients meet their own
personal challenges and continuing to support
educational and environmental programs in the
countries in which they operate.
MOUNTAINEERING
SCHOOLS IN NORTH CASCADES
Seattle,
WA. The glaciers of the North Cascades, along
with rugged approaches and sheer beauty make it
the premier training ground for climbers in
North America.
Mountain Madness guides assist students
in developing the leadership skills and alpine
climbing techniques necessary for safe
mountaineering.
The combination of highly qualified
guides and diverse mountain terrain creates the
perfect setting for developing climbing skills
and gaining the experience necessary to ascend
the great peaks of the world.
Since
1984 Mountain Madness has trained climbers in
the Cascades of Washington, Ecuador, Bolivia,
and Alaska for ascents of the world's highest,
most challenging peaks.
Mountain Madness continues to lead high
profile trips such as Mount Everest and the
Seven Summits, but the Live
Your Dreams program provides the foundation
and logical progression for reaching these
summits, beginning with the Alpine
Mountaineering Schools.
VARIETY
OF PROGRAMS OFFERED
Their
Northwest Program takes place in the Cascades of
Washington State, the countries best training
ground for mountaineers of all levels- from
beginners with no experience to advanced
climbers with expedition experience.
In this region glaciated peaks, alpine
rock, old growth forests, and alpine lakes and
meadows predominate.
Programs include the
Alpine
Climbing Course, Introduction to Mountaineering,
Alpine Rock Climbing Course,
Alpine Ice Climbing, Glacier
Mountaineering Course and Expedition Training in
Alaska and the Cascades.
Many of these courses are available in South
America as well.
Three
& four day introductory summit climbs,
technical rock and ice climbs, big-wall
seminars, and rock climbing classes are also
available.
These programs take place in a variety of
venues in Washington, Oregon, and Nevada.
Mountain
Madness has a mission to provide the highest
quality experience for beginner and advanced
mountaineers and trekkers.
Every Mountain Madness trip offers the
best food, opportunity for cultural exchange,
wilderness skills development, self-discovery,
and highly qualified guides- experts in the
specific destination.
Information
about Mountain Madness is available on their
website
at
www.mountainmadness.com |
News
4/2/2001:
We inform you that we finished the construction of our
quality lodge in Lobuche ("village"), the
last stop before Everest Base Camp. The lodge has 12
double rooms and a dormitory of 12 separated beds. In-
and outside toilets, restaurant. All the materials
have been brought by helicopter and porters from
Kathmandu. Not one tree has been cut and the whole
construction is made from local hand cut stone, aluminum
beams, block wood, ply wood and double insulation. We
are sure that this will be appreciated by all Everest
climbers. Greetings from Nepal. Ang Tshering Sherpa
Asian Trekking (P) Ltd http://www.asian-trekking.com
News
3/15/2001: Simone Moro
I'm
Simone Moro from Italy and now I'm writing to you from
Almaty (Kazakstan). I have been here 2 weeks during which
I realized [completed] the winter climb of Mramornayestina (or
Marble Wall) 6400 meters in Thien Shan. It had been a
very nice and cold climb but we did it! We were 2
teams of CSKA (Central Sport Club of Army) with
different routes attempting to reach the top of Marble Wall. One
team lead by Rinat Khaibullin (famous climber who
climbed also the south face of Lhotse) realized
[completed; Summitted] the
Karlytau 5460 Marble Wall Traverse. And another team
included myself, Denis Urubko and Maksut Jumayev; We
climbed the south ridge directly to the top. We had
good weather but very, very cold (winter in Thien Shan
is very serious.....) On the 5th of March, the Rinat
Khaibullin team was on the top. We arrived the day
after from our route and both in alpine style. Today I
will fly back to Italy and after 13 days I will go to
Nepal to try my Lhotse-Everest traverse. Denis Urubko
will come with me and we will climb Lhotse together
and we then will try to go down to the south col via
the unclimbed north ridge of Lhotse. Then I will
continue alone to Everest. Ciao Simone
News
3/8/2001: A garbage levy for all mountains is under
consideration right now. Sadly, it is a necessary
measure to control the unnecessary littering the
mountains. It is not decided yet. Like opening
Machapuchare for climbing, still under consideration.
We will
let you know first when these issues are decided and announced.
Source: HIMALAYA
Center, Kathmandu
News:
2/15/2001 Unauthorized Satellite phones not welcome!
EverestNews.com
is told unauthorized satellite phones are being
impounded by Nepal. Sources tell EverestNews.com, that
in the last few years we are seeing a "higher
level of watch on Expeditions". Expeditions, that
we shall not name here, have been caught with unauthorized
satellite phones in the last year. Beware !
Expeditions using unauthorized satellite phones may
face prosecution which is never a good thing in a
foreign country, bring unauthorized satellite phones
into China is "just plain stupid!".
News
3/5/2001: The following is a PRESS RELEASE that was
forwarded to EverestNews.com
Mountain
Climbers Who Have Had LASIK Should Be Aware of
Possible Changes In Vision
Lack of oxygen, often experienced by climbers at high
altitudes, causes a temporary change in vision in
people who have undergone the LASIK refractive surgery
procedure. This is the conclusion of a study in
the March 2001 issue of Ophthalmology, the clinical
journal of the American Academy of Ophthalmology, the
Eye M.D. Association.
The lead author of the study, Major Mark L. Nelson,
Chief of the Refractive Eye Surgery Center at Fort
Bragg, North Carolina, points out that the effect of
lack of oxygen at high altitudes on people who have
had LASIK is the opposite from the effect on people
who have had radial keratotomy (RK), an earlier type
of refractive surgery. "RK patients have a
shift towards farsightedness, which makes their near
vision poor, as happened in the 1996 Mount Everest
mountain-climbing disaster. Our study results
indicate that LASIK patients may develop a shift that
would cause their distance vision to become
blurry. If distant vision becomes blurred at
high altitudes, it may make it difficult to navigate
over long distances."
However, climbers needn't choose between climbing and
vision correction surgery. Another significant
finding is the difference in the degree of vision
change, which is very small in those who have had
LASIK compared to those who have had RK. "I
expect people could climb Everest after LASIK,"
says Lawrence J. White, MD, a coauthor of the study
and author of previous studies about RK and lack of
oxygen at high altitudes, "but they might carry
some glasses to help with any significant
nearsightedness encountered." The authors also
cite a previous study that shows no change in vision
from lack of oxygen in people who have had PRK,
another type of laser vision correction that does not
require incisions in the cornea.
The current study used an airtight goggle system over
a two-hour period to create a lack of oxygen in one
eye and a normal oxygen environment in the other eye
of 20 people who had had LASIK for nearsightedness and
20 people who had not had previous eye surgery.
This amount of exposure to an oxygen-free environment
did not correspond to a specific altitude, but it did
cause a significant increase in corneal thickness.
In a previous case report published in Ophthalmology
(December 2000), Dr. White and Thomas H. Mader, MD, a
coauthor of this study, described the case of a
mountain climber in Peru who had had LASIK in both
eyes who experienced noticeable nearsightedness after
spending two nights at 18,000 feet. His vision
cleared when he returned to 10,000 feet. Dr.
Nelson explains that this and similar reports indicate
that significant changes in vision among climbers who
have had LASIK seem to occur only over an extended
period of time at very high altitudes.
"It's a metabolic effect," he said,
"the eye gets starved for oxygen even if the
climber is breathing oxygen from a tank. The
cornea gets part of its oxygen from the external
environment."
The American Academy of Ophthalmology is the world's
largest association of Eye M.D.s -- eye physicians and
surgeons -- with more than 27,000 members. For more
information on eye health and safety, visit http://www.medem.com,
an Academy partner Web site. Information about
the Academy is available on the Academy's Web site, http://www.eyenet.org.
SOURCE The American Academy of Ophthalmology Web Site:
http://www.eyenet.org
Update
2/27/2001: HIGHEST
PEAK IN SOUTH AMERICA
Guy
Cotter (New Zealand), mountain guide and director of
Wanaka based Adventure Consultants Ltd., reached the
summit of Aconcagua (6962m) in Argentina on February
12th this week, along with clients of the company,
Arnold Witzig (Switzerland) and Ellis Stewart (UK).
This was Cotter's first expedition to the mountain,
which is the highest summit in South America and one
of the 'Seven Summits'. The expedition planned to
attempt the Polish Glacier route on the eastern flanks
of the mountain. Reporting by satellite phone from
Plaza Argentina, the Base Camp for the routes on the
eastern side of the mountain, he stated they had 'had
a good trip, good weather, it's a really big pile of
rubble, but a perfect summit day, departing at 4.00am
and arriving at the summit at 1.30pm'. Due to the
condition of the team members they ascended via a
variation onto the Normal route and not via the more
difficult Polish Glacier Direct route.
Cotter's
next expedition is to Makalu (8463m) in Nepal, which
is the fifth highest mountain on earth, during the
northern spring of 2001. He will depart from New
Zealand in late March and will be leading a group of
six climbers on the expedition. Adventure
Consultants Ltd
Update
1/12/2001
Greetings-
Yes, this is the latest. No question in my mind that
the lower dose of Diamox works. However, it is true
that we still need to absolutely prove it. 2 studies
will be undertaken shortly - one at Everest, one on
Rainier. stay tuned for further details.
Regards,
Peter Hackett
The
Article: http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/322/7277/48
Update:
12/12/2000
Nearby
on-coming X-mas and New Year brings cheers and smiles
on Tour Operators and Holidaying Clients in Nepal.
All Hotels, which went closed from 11th of December,
is starting to re-open & fully operate again from
12th of December.
This
has been possible after Prime Minister of Nepal gave
assurance to Hotel businessman to reserve the dispute
over Hotel Workers Union's 10% service charge demand
for their welfare amicably in the near future.
The
closure had created quite a big havoc for staying-on
tourists in Kathmandu, Pokhara & Chitwan. They had
to be transferred to small privately run guest houses
or camping site facilities. So much so Lauda Air crew
had to take shelter on their own Aircraft for the
night after they were thrown out of Hotel Yak &
Yeti.
All
Hotels are open from today onwards. So no problem for
the X-mas & New
Year season. Merry X-mas and very very Happy New Year.
Reported by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu / Nepal 12th
December
Update:
12/6/2000
I
will try again the Everest-Lhotse traverse in 2001.
Denis Urubko will come with me but he will climb
"only" Lhotse because I have no money to
cover his expenses for Everest. So I will continue
alone after Lhotse climb... I am looking for more
sponsors to fund the expedition. Cheers Simone Moro
Update:
11/29/2000: Looking for something to do this weekend ?
Check out the
Kendal
Mountain Film Festival 1st - 3rd December 2000
Update
11/20/2000
Bradford
Washburn: Mountain Photography is the winner of
the 2000 Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, the
$2000 Phyllis and Don Munday Award sponsored by the
Alberta Sections of the Alpine Club of Canada.
The
book reflects the eight decades that Bradford Washburn
has spent documenting mountain landscapes from the
Grand Canyon to Mount Everest. Edited and compiled by
Antony Decaneas, the book includes one hundred large
format mountain photographs selected from the over
10,000 images in the Washburn portfolio.
"We considered a number of books for the Grand
Prize - smart and provocative books, books that told
exciting stories - but we were won over by the
timelessness and beauty of the images that Brad
Washburn has made over the course of his remarkable
career and that are collected in this book," says
Chris Dafoe, a member of the 2000 book jury.
"Many of these photographs may have been shot for
scientific purposes, but clearly there's an artist's
eye at work here. The book captures both the grandeur
of the great mountains and the subtle delights that
can be found in the mountain world."
Order
it today !
Bradford
Washburn: Mountain Photography
by Antony Decaneas (Editor), Bradford Washburn, Boston
Museum of Fine Arts, Clifford S. Ackley
The
other big winner:
Peter
Gillman's new Mallory Book: The
Wildest Dream : The Biography of George Mallory
Hardcover - 320 pages (September 2000)
Update:
11/18/2000 Editorial comment: The Body found on
Everest
During
Autumn Everest 2000, Slovenian climber Davo Karnicar
reported seeing a body on Everest as he skied down the
mountain. News
reports continue that
the body was that of Scott Fisher and that "this
is the first time the body has been seen or found
since he died in 1996." The
reports are false
in that Scott Fisher's body has been seen by numerous
climbers since he died on Everest including Ang Dorjee
Sherpa in Spring Everest 2000 while he was with other
climbers. Ang Dorjee Sherpa has been reported to have
identified the body as Scott Fischer. Ang Dorjee
Sherpa, of course, would know.
There
are numerous bodies on Everest. There are bodies that
families are still "looking for". We believe
the news
media needs to be very careful
and sensitive in this area. As one climber said, tell
them "don't
make a big deal out of it...many people have seen this
body".
Update:
11/17/2000
EverestNews.com
plan to complete the Everest Summit list on the net is
almost complete. The start :The Early Years
and Everest
Summits 1979-1989
(almost complete).
The
next step will be to complete
a PAGE for every climber who
has reached the Summit of Everest. If you can help
with your page or with pages for others, let us know everestnews2004@adelphia.net
Update:
11/16/2000
Vertical
Limit, the new film about climbing K2 (no it was not
filmed on K2), is expected to be released in the US on
December 8th. Guy
Cotter and Ed Viesturs both
worked on the film... The link to the Vertical
Limit site is here.
Update:
11/14/2000
Namche
Bazaar, Nepal
Adrian
Ballinger solos the South West Ridge of Ama Dablam in
6 Hours and 50 minutes!!!
Adrian
Ballinger, the Mountaineering Director of Earth Treks,
a leading American guide service (www.earthtreksclimbing.com)
has just emailed us from Namche Bazaar, the capital of
the Sherpa Kingdom. He was a bit excited, having just
soloed the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam (22,685 ft.) in a
blazing fast 6 hours and 50 minutes from Camp 1
(19,400 ft.).
The
South West Ridge is a long, technical and very complex
ridge line. While most of the route is fixed, the airy
jumaring and fragile ice formations make this route
quite exciting. Most teams use a series of three
camps, above base camp, in their attempt to tag the
top.
Prior
to the Ama Dablam ascent, Adrian guided a very
successful group of Earth Treks climbers on a trip
that including the summits of Island and Mera Peaks.
Everyone in the team summited all of the peaks and
reports were incredible. Great weather, fantastic
climbing, a wonderful team of Sherpas and lots of dark
coffee propelled this team up Mera Peak, over the
Amphu Lapsa pass and then to the summit of Island
Peak.
The
team was made up of Adrian, Mike Vesper, Rich Chaffin,
Josh Lubiner and Joe Ferrer. Ram Chandra Sunuuwar and many past trips:
Ram also spent the summer with us in the U.S.) was the
expedition sirdar and guide. Also joining them was Dawa,
who worked with us on Everest this past Spring.
Congratulations
to all of these climbers.
Update:
11/13/2000
Messner
speaks out
Update:
11/9/2000
Numerous
sources have reported that Thomas Homar has been hurt when
he fell in a hole in his yard. Thomas earned fame for
his solo climb of the south face of Dhaulagiri.
However, he did not Summit Dhaulagiri on that attempt
as seem to be implied in some news reports. Thomas
turned around high on Dhaulagiri after climbing much
of the face.
Thomas
received well deserved fame for a great climb ! One does
not have to Summit to have a great climb !
Update:
11/8/2000
Bradford
Washburn Mountain Photography
Takes Grand Prize at the 2000 Banff Mountain Book
Festival
Bradford
Washburn: Mountain Photography is the winner of the
2000 Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, the
$2000 Phyllis and Don Munday Award sponsored by the
Alberta Sections of the Alpine Club of Canada. The
festival awards were presented on Thursday evening,
November 2.
The
book reflects the eight decades that Bradford Washburn
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