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May 1998 Daily North Side News

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit Everest News Sponsor page !

Latest News from The North Side

Spring 98 reports

Update 5/31/98 US

  • Please check the RISK-online pages Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Distefano-Arsentiev dedicated: http://www.risk.ru/himal/ever-98.html and pictures http://www.risk.ru/himal/francis.html   

Update 5/30/98 US

  • The best we know right now is:
  • Four Dead on the north side: Sergei Arsentiev (hope have been given up), Francis Arsentiev-Distefano from the United States, and two climbers whose names are not officially released yet. No official details of the deaths but climbers are beginning to talk.
  • Yes, to answer many of your questions. There were additional summits while these people died "on the route". Everest News is trying to sort out details reported to us.
  • To respect the dead, EVEREST NEWS will not update the North Side summit page for 72 hours.  

NEWSFLASH Update 3:38PM 5/29/98 US We received this e-mail from the American Team

  • Subject:       Everest Update
    Date:          Fri, 29 May 1998 08:06:16 -0700

    Hi Everyone, Good news from Mount Everest!  Here an e-mail I received from Dave Hahn's this morning:

    ALL IS WELL! All 11 climbers ( 7 members, 4 climbing Sherpas) got to take a crack at the summit on three successive days.  On May 25, Alex, Craig, Danuru Sherpa, and Lhakpa Rita Sherpa went for the top. Alex turned for cold feet at about 27,900 ft.  (His feet are fine, no worries) the other three made the top at 9:30 AM and made a normal and safe descent.  On May 26, I led Jim Findley, Heather, and Pinzo Sherpa to about 28,000 ft. before deciding that it wasn't a good enough day for guiding the top (windy, threatening clouds)  We spun... and descended safely.  On May 27, Richard got to go up with two guys who'd both already been to the top twice, Panuru Sherpa and Bob Sloezen knew the way and all three got up at about 9:30 on a windy day.  Again, a safe descent. So six of the team made the top of Mount Everest. A day later, all were safe at Advanced Base Camp and laboring to bring down the gear.  Now, that is complete (from the upper mountain) and we are just getting ready to get Yaks to ABC for the gear.   We've moved up our exit date (leave BC on the 2nd, arrive Kathmandu on the 3rd)   Yeah, people were dying around us, as you may have heard, but we stuck to our methods and watched our steps and each other.  So far so good.  More when I get settled (at Base Camp)-
  • This e-mail will be moved to the news page soon with the others. Please support Matthew Randall. Craig John has made it to the top of the world for Matthew !!!

NEWSFLASH Update 2:55PM 5/29/98 US

  • The best we know right now is:
  • Three Dead on the north side: Sergei Arsentiev (hope of finding him have been given up), Francis Arsentiev-Distefano from the United States, they were husband and wife on the Russian Expedition and a climber whose name is not released yet. However, two more sources confirmed to Everest News that this climber has died.
  • ONE MORE CLIMBER HAS BEEN REPORTED TO HAVE DIED FROM SEVERAL "INDIVIDUALS" TO EVEREST NEWS, some of which tell us they are family members. However, Everest News has not confirmed this death from Nepal.
  • Editorial Comment: These are very tough calls. Everest News has waited about 24 hours to update information for you. NUMEROUS families and friends of climbers are seeking information about climbers. Confirmation is not coming from the mountain. Families are attempted to be notified first, which is the right thing to do. It appears the families have now been notified. However, the families want to know what happened, not just that there loved one is dead.  The families and their friends need information. If there is smoke there is usually fire, and there is more to this story than we know today. Something smells wrong on Everest. There is confusion at best on Fran's death. If we can get the truth we will bring it to you. It is the night in Nepal. This is an editorial comment and should only be viewed as that.

Update 5/28/98 US

  • The best we know right now is:
  • Three Dead on the north side: Sergei Arsentiev (hope of finding him have been given up), Francis Arsentiev-Distefano from the United States, they were husband and wife on the Russian Expedition and a climber whose name is not released yet. However, two more sources confirmed to Everest News that this climber has died.
  • Russell Brice was reported at Base camp at around 10:00 am Nepal time today. We have no word on whether he or his team reached the summit. As reported, yesterday at least three more Americans have reached the summit from the North side.
  • We expect to receive news of many more summits.

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Update 5/27/98 US

  • Check our summit page. The Russian and Uzbekistan Expeditions with the assistance of Asian -Trekking are putting huge numbers (for Everest) of climbers on the summit.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/27/98 12:28 PM EST US

  • Confirmed Summits: Three more Chinese and three Americans. Uzbekistan Expedition: Oleg Grigoriev and Andrei Fedorov. As always check  www.risk.ru, for the most details on the Russian and Uzbekistan Expeditions.
  • Check back soon for more information.
  • NOTE MUCH OF THIS REPORT IS NO LONG BELIEVED TRUE; Oleg Grigoriev and Andrei Fedorov REACHED THE SUMMIT ON THE 23RD NOT AS IN THIS REPORT. SEE 6/12/98 REPORT FOR MORE DETAILS.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/27/98 12:23 PM EST US

  • Confirmed Summits by the American team !!!
  • Our Russian sources are reporting to us that, and we quote " Anatoli Shabanov called from base camp and said that one man - Englishman from France died on the descent from Everest after summiting. His name is Mark ."
  • As always check  www.risk.ru, for the most details on the Russian and Uzbekistan Expeditions.
  • Check back soon for more information.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/27/98 6:24 AM EST US

  • Confirmed Summits: Sumiyo Tsuzuki (30), a Japanese woman. Source: K Furuno
  • Uzbekistan Expedition: Balmagambetov Khanif, Matz Roman, Tukhvatullin IIias, Zaikin Andei, and Dokukin Alexei. As always check  www.risk.ru, for the most details on the Russian and Uzbekistan Expeditions.
  • No signs of Sergei Arsentiev.
  • Check back soon for more information.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/26/98 9:22 PM EST US

  • NUMEROUS ATTEMPTS: Everest News is confirming that numerous climbers are at high camps with summit attempts in progress with more attempts in the next 48 hours. Everest 98 is far from over! Everest 98 is looking like a record year.! We expect the American expedition to attempt the summit tonight and tomorrow night.

Update 5/26/98 US

  • Everest News is confirming that numerous climbers are at high camps with summit attempts in process.
  • Nepal is reporting a heat wave.
  • No news on Sergei Arsentiev. This was his second Everest summit (first in 1990).

Update 5/25/98 US

  • Many of the north side climbers appear emotionally drained after the death of Francis Arsentiev-Distefano and Sergei Arsentiev become missing.

Update 5/24/98 US

  • On a positive note: Everest News is confirming that two members of the Czech Republic and one Sherpa guide reached the summit.
  • Other climbers attempted near the summit last night (Sunday Nepal). Everest News is waiting word on their status.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/24/98 4:33 PM EST US

  • The best we know right now is:
  • As we reported on May 20th: The climbers Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (US), husband and wife, attempted the summit without the use of bottled oxygen, turned around and returned to 8,200 meters due to equipment failure
  • As we reported on May 21st at about 13:00 (Nepal time) Anatoli Moshnikov and Gilles Roman (France, member of the Russian expedition) summited Mt. Everest, this group met hurricane wind impacts on descent. Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano were still staying at 8,200 plan to climb on May 22nd. They had some problems with equipment (batteries for headlamps) but they were still in a good shape.
  • Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano started to climb and reached the summit at 18:15 on 5/22/98. Francis Arsentiev-Distefano became the first American woman to climb the North side of Everest without supplemental oxygen and only the second woman ever.
  • On 5/23/98, members of the Uzbekistan expedition found Sergei Arsentiev coming down and after some tea he returned to the tents at the high camp. Apparently the climbers Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (US) spend the night on Everest very high up without a tent and were in trouble.
  • Francis Arsentiev-Distefano was found after the first step but alive. Two members of the Uzbekistan expedition stayed to help her and gave her medical assistance including three bottles of bottled oxygen. Part of the South African expedition climbed up to help rescue her. She soon died, after they arrived and transported her about 100 meters.
  • When her husband, Sergei Arsentiev, heard on the radio what happened to, Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (his wife), he took oxygen and started to climb up to help her. The Uzbekistan expedition found Sergei Arsentiev's ice axe and rope on their decent, but no Sergei Arsentiev. He is presently listed as missing.
  • We believe both Sergei Arsentiev (39) and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (38) were US citizens. She had a son. He has a daughter.
  • EVEREST NEWS wish to extend to all the friends and family of Frances Distefano-Arsentiev our sad condolences.
  • We wish to thank our friends at  "RISK online" http://www.risk.ru for working with us throughout this Everest 98. The Russians and Uzbekistan expeditions have reached the summit more than anyone this year. In the memory of Francis Arsentiev-Distefano the summit page will not be updated for 48 hours.
  • NOTE MUCH OF THIS REPORT IS NO LONG BELIEVED TRUE. SEE 6/12/98 REPORT FOR MORE DETAILS.

NEWSFLASH 1:59 PM EST US 5/24/98

  • Information based on Anatoli Shabanov's report from base camp on 24/05/98: The terrible tragedy happens. Not for nothing Mt. Everest called the mountain-murder. The mountains took their next sacrifice. It is so hard to write about it. We just publish the dry words of chronicle of events here. 21/05/98 the member of Uzbekistan expedition Rustam Radgapov climbed up from 6,400 to 8,200 m in a day. 22/05/98 Radgapov summited the top of Everest. Later in a day at about 13:30 two Czechs climbed a top also. Sergei Arsentiev and Frensis Distefano, spent three (!) nights at 8,200 m, started the climb and summited at 18:15. They summits without supplemental oxygen. Thus Frensis became the first American woman to do so, and only the second verifiable female ascent without oxygen. 23/05/98 the members of Uzbekistan expedition Oleg Grigoriev, Andrei Fedorov, Sergei Sokolov, Svetlana Baskakova (female) and Marat Usaev started from 8,200 m for the summit attempt. Just came from the tents they met coming down Arsentiev who exams them did they see Frensis. They gave him the tea and he went to the tents, the guys continue the ascent.Apparently Arsentiev and his wife spent the night on Everest without tents. After climb the Step I climbers found Frensis lying without movement but still alive. They decided that Sokolov, Baskakova and Usaev will continue the attempt. Grigoriev and Fedorov stayed with Frensis for help. After medical consultation with base camp doctor they gave her oxygen with maximum expenditure (totally they spent three bottles) and carried out all the another medical prescriptions. Later some South African climbers and 3 or 4 Sherpas climbed to them. Together they could transport her down 100 m, but in spite of the rendering aid Frensis dead at about 11:00. When Arsentiev heard on radio what happens to Frensis, he took the oxygen and went upstairs to them. On descent Uzbekistanian climbers did not met Arsentiev. They just found his ice axe and rope. Till that moment (evening May 24th) he still did not came to 8,200-m camp and nobody knows where he is. Sokolov, Baskakova and Usaev summited the top of Everest. 24/05/98 the members of Uzbekistan expedition Tukhvatullin Ilias, Zaikin Andrei and Dokukin Alexei made the ascent to the top. The members of Uzbekistan expedition Balmagametov Khanif + 1 person (unknown name - the poor audibility) ascended to 8,200 m plan the summit attempt on 25/05/98. They found lost 5 bottles of oxygen and now trying to make up for the loss. All the members of Russian expeditions left the base camp except Moshnikov and Slepikovsky awaiting at ABC (6,400 m) for any news about Arsentiev. The members of Uzbekistan expedition are going to leave ABC on May 27th by yaks and to leave base camp to Kathmandu on May 28th by Jeeps. Some details on Kulbachenko ascent. He climbed the summit tower on the right side by rocks while four another Russians ascended and descended on the left side by snow-and-ice couloir. He had been on the top at 16:35. There are some photos he made on the top. (Information received from Shataev who met Kulbachenko in Moscow airport on May 24th). By the way Kulbachenko became the first climber from Belorussia to be climb Mt. Everest.
  • "RISK-online" & EVEREST NEWS wish to extend to all the friends and family of Frensis Distefano-Arsentiev our sad condolences.
  • SOURCE: "RISK online",http://www.risk.ru
  • NOTE MUCH OF THIS REPORT IS NO LONG BELIEVED TRUE. SEE 6/12/98 REPORT FOR MORE DETAILS.


Update 5/23/98 EST US

  • Everest News has confirmed additional earlier summits, which will be recorded on our summits page.
  • Everest News has not confirmed any summits in the last 48 hours, however numerous teams were planning on attempting the summit last night or tonight. We assume the teams will try to wait the weather out, but the teams have not notified us that they will wait.
  • All of the India team made it back down OK. Great success story !

NEWSFLASH Update 8:47 AM 5/22/98 EST US

  • Everest News has received reports today of SOME climbers turning back during summit attempts the last 24 hours on the North Side due to high winds.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/21/98 3:11PM EST US

  • MORE NORTH SUMMITS !, Note weather information.
  • May 21st at about 13:00 (Nepal time) Anatoli Moshnikov and Gilles Roman (France, member of the Russian expedition) summited Mt. Everest. Our cordial congratulations! he weather still good, although this group met hurricane wind impacts on descent. There is no any info on Slepikovsky's climb yet. The participants of first climbed group came back to the base camp and confirmed the summit climb of Victor Kulbachenko (Belorussia, member of the Russian expedition). The guys passed one another on descent turn into another line. He had been on the top at about 16:00. Our congratulations (sorry for delay)! Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano are still staying at 8,200 plan to climb on May 22nd. They had some problems with equipment (batteries for headlamps) but they still in a good shape. 6-person group of Uzbekistan expedition came to tents at 7,500 m (7,700 m? - poor audibility) in order for final attempt on May 23rd.
  • Source, Arkadi Klepinin, www.risk.ru, You can find detailed information on the Russian teams at our expedition link to the risk web site.
  • Summit attempts reported again for tonight. Weather above might change some minds.

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Update 5/21/98 US 

  • Everest News has been notified of summits by various "High Altitude Sherpas" on May 21st (The third day of summits.)
  • Most climbers seem to feel the storm have missed Everest and the summit race continues before the snow begins !

Update 5/20/98 5:11PM EST US

  • We have no confirmed summits from the North Side from yesterday. However, summits could have occurred. Much information is still coming in from various teams.
  • The climbers Sergei Arsentiev and Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (US), who attempted the summit without the use of bottled oxygen, turned around and returned due to equipment failure. Courtesy of risk; You can find detailed information on the Russian teams at our expedition link to the risk web site.
  • We have been notified of other attempts at the north summit  for tonight.
  • We hope to do summaries for the North & South within the next 24 hours to update the summits. Different numbers of summits are being reported to us by different sources.

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Update 5/20/98 11:30AM EST US

  • All the India team is safe and back down in ABC (C3) or below. "The INDIAN TRICOLOUR UNFURLED ON THE TOP OF THE WORLD", is truly a great Everest 98 story. We hope to bring you more on their success at a later date.
  • Other success to report is Asian-trekking which is Indian support team. They had  4 climbers (see below) reach the summit on the India team. They are also supporting the following expeditions on the North side this year: Basque, Uzbekistan, Russian, South African, Russell Brice Himalayan Experience (New Zealand), and the International expedition.
  • Check back soon.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/19/98 5:31 PM EST US
  • We have confirmed climbers attempting the summit. However, due to translation concerns we will need to post more later.

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NEWSFLASH Update 5/19/98 4:30 AM EST US (Corrected)
  • Two Japanese climbers of the Japanese Team Showa Alpine Club, Hiromichi Kamimura (33) and Hitoshi Onodera (47) reached the summit on May 20th. Two climbers from the Japanese TV Asahi Team also reached the summit on May 20th. These are the second and third groups of climbers from the Japanese team to reach the summit so far this year. Courtesy of Kiyoshi Furuno
NEWSFLASH Update 5/19/98 2:58 AM EST US
  • We have just been received news from a second successful summit by the Indian Expedition at 9:45 IST. The summit party consisted of Team Member Luvraj Dharmasattu (India), and Phinjo Sherpa.  Courtesy of Dilip Lagu (India), everestindia98.com, check their link on the expedition links Page

Update 5/18/98 10:43 PM EST US

  • The race is on to summit before the weather changes. Numerous climbers are leaving high camps for the summit.
  • The summit window still appears open. However, the window might be closing. Some climbers are worried that bad weather (mainly snow) will hit again early on May 20th (Nepal).
  • Summits have occurred (see NEWSFLASHES below)
  • Who will come back from the summit ?

Update 5/18/98 2:02PM EST US

  • The race is on to summit before the weather changes.
  • The summit window still appears open.
  • Reports of snow on the way.
  • Summits have occurred (see NEWSFLASHES below)
  • Who will come back from the summit ?

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 1:39 PM EST US

  • A new e-mail 5/18/98 has arrived from Craig John's American team. See our reports and please support Matthew.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 11:40 AM EST US

  • We have been notified from our Japan source that two more members of the Showa Alpine Club Japanese team will leave for the summit on May 19th (Nepal).
  • Courtesy of Kiyoshi Furuno.

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NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 10:40 AM EST US

  • We have been notified from our India source that Luvraj Dharmasattu (India), and Phinjo Sherpa will leave on May 19th (Nepal) for the Summit.
  • Courtesy of Dilip Lagu (India) and Rajesh Thakur (India), everestindia98.com, check their link on  expedition links

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 9:40 AM EST US

  • Some climbers are worried a snow storm will hit before the wind.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 8:40 AM EST US

  • The window might be closing. Some climbers are worried that bad weather will hit again early on May 20th (Nepal).

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 7:40 AM EST US

  • Details on Surendra Chavan (India) summit. Reached the summit at 12:15 IST.
  • Sherpa from Asian trekking (Nepal).
  • Left camp 6 at 3:00am IST. Crossed main obstacles of first step and second step by 10:30 am IST.
  • Surendra talked to India sources via Wireless-Inmarsat connection.

NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 6:40 AM EST US

  • We have confirmed information that other climbers were climbing behind the India and Japanese teams. The UNCONFIRMED information is that these climbers (not entire teams) were part of the Chinese, Russian, and Japanese Teams. These climbers appear to have left camp 6, 2 to 3 hours after Surendra Chavan  (India). The identity of these climbers are NOT CONFIRMED AT THIS TIME.
NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 5.43 AM EST US
  • Two Japanese climbers of the Japanese Team Showa Alpine Club, Toshiya Nakajima (33) and Shoji Abe (34) left Camp 6 at 03:00 and summited at 12:42 Nepalese Local time (14:57 Beijing Local Time).   Courtesy of Kiyoshi Furuno
NEWSFLASH Update 5/18/98 4.03 AM EST US
  • We have just been received news from Advanced Base Camp of the successful summit by the Indian Expedition at 12:20pm IST, May 18th, 1998. The summit party consisted of Team Member Surendra Chavan (India) age 35 years, Dawa Toshi Sherpa, Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Tamtim Sherpa, and Tenzing Sherpa.  Courtesy of Rajesh Thakur (India), everestindia98.com

NEWSFLASH Update 5/17/98 8:40 PM EST US

  • We have been notified from our India source of the following: "Since this is the first attempt for any team this season the four sherpas will have to open route for practically all other expeditions. Nevertheless, we will be the first to have a go at the summit. Next day two other members will be making a second attempt irrespective of the success of the first team.", "Let us hope for the BEST."
  • Courtesy of Dilip Lagu (India), everestindia98.com

NEWSFLASH Update 5/17/98 10.26AM EST US

  • We have just been notified from our India source that, Surendra Chavan (India), and 4 Sherpa will leave at 2.00am IST on May 18th for the Summit. More will be posted in the next few hours, please check back.
  • Courtesy of Dilip Lagu (India), everestindia98.com

Update 5/17/98 US

  • The summit window appears to be opening.
  • Many climbers are high up the mountain.
  • The storm damage is real. The fresh snow is not compacted. The avalanche danger is real.
  • Who (if any) will attempt the summit without set (additional) camps above 7800m ? Who will set these camps before attempting the summit ?
  • Who will risk it all, who will wait, many questions to be answered in the next few days.
  • Many experienced teams and many experienced climbers.

Update 5/16/98 US

  • Climbers are busy moving up the mountain and repairing the damage done by the storm.
  • As reported earlier, we expect the break in the weather to continue with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to May 21st. It is not possible to tell if the window will continue beyond May 21st.

Update 5/15/98 US

  • Climbers are moving up the mountain again.
  • As we reported yesterday. We expect a small break in the weather to occur with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to May 21st. Whether the window will continue beyond May 21st, is not possible to tell at this time.
  • Significant storm damage occurred on the North side also. It is still unclear how much this will affect the expeditions.
  • Check the latest email from Adventure Consultants on our Everest News page. It might be a sign (the weather).

Update 5/14/98 US

  • We expect a small break in the weather to occur with a potential summit window in the time frame May 17th to May 21st. Whether the window will continue beyond May 21st, is not possible to tell at this time.
  • News from the Japanese Teams: There are four Japanese Expedition Teams on the Tibet side. (1.) Showa Alpine Club will summit on May 18-19th. They are repairing their C4 & C5 damaged by the storm. (2.) Japan Workers' Alpine Federation (JWAF) will summit on May 16 - 17th, (3.) TV Asahi, no news on summit plans, (4.) Hirofumi Konishi, is climbing solo, no news on his summit plans.
  • Update on the French Climbers: Andre Rehm and Jerome Ruby, plans to attempt the summit and snowboard down, possibly via the Norton Couloir or the Hornbein Couloir.

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Update 5/13/98 US

  • The wait continues. However a small break in the weather is expected soon. The problem is that the highest camps were not established for many teams. Therefore, the summit attempts , if they come, will have to occur without these camps. See the News Flash below. 

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News Flash Update 5/12/98 US

  • We have received information that there were NO attempts of summiting by the Russians. They are reporting to us they have no camps above 7800m. Chinese weather forecast informed them that the weather would be bad, so they did not go for the summit. They also inform us that if there will be the attempts to summit they will be probably without set (additional) camps (above 7800m). Russian expedition plans to be back on May 22nd. You can find detailed information on the Russian teams at our expedition link to the risk web site.
  • Many climbers are at very high camps.
  • Summit attempts are here. No confirmed summits yet. 
  • The Americans are not expected to attempt the summit for several days. 

Update 5/12/98 US

  • The wait has begun.
  • We have many experienced well prepared expeditions on the North side this year.
  • Climbers will attempt the summit as soon as a break in the weather occurs.
  • Climbers are reported in good heath and great spirits. 

Update 5/11/98 US

  • An arrival of a jet stream has forced everyone to return to lower camps, primarily Base Camp.
  • Climbers are reported in good heath and great spirits. 

Update 5/10/98 US

  • Many climbers are still at high camps.
  • We have not received news on climbers reaching the summit.
  • The Russians teams, the Japanese teams and the Chinese all are believed to have attempted the summit. However, this information is unconfirmed.

Update 5/9/98 US

  • Many climbers are at very high camps.
  • Summit attempts are here. No confirmed summits yet. 
  • The Americans are not expected to attempt the summit for several days.

Update 5/8/98 US

  • Climbers are at high camp. Summit attempts are here. 
  • The Russians and Asian trekking are leading.
  • Slow going up high; This is the NORTH SIDE OF EVEREST !!!~
  • Upper camps are still being established for some teams (including the Americans.).

Update 5/7/98 US

  • Summit attempts are expected soon. 
  • Upper camps are still being established for some teams (including the Americans.).
  • See our report from the American North Side Expedition for more details.

Update 5/6/98 US

  • The storm is continuing (up high).
  • Camp I at 7000m and Camp II at 7500m are established and fully stocked.
  • Camp III at 7900m and Camp IV at 8300m are established but not fully stocked for all teams.
  • The Russian team headed by Boris Sedusov working with Asian Trekking as a Sherpa support team appears very strong with several experienced Everest climbers.

Update 5/5/98 US

  • The intensifying storm is continuing (up high) with strong wind.
  • Summit attempts are delayed.
  • The Russians and Chinese are expected to attempt the summit first.
  • Cooperation is excellent.

Update 5/4/98 US

  • The storm is intensifying in size (up high) with strong wind.
  • Summit attempts will be delayed due to the storm.
  • The Russians and probably Chinese are expected to attempt the summit first.
  • The many experienced expeditions appear well prepared on the North side. However, we still have large numbers of climbers.

Update 5/3/98 US

  • Wind is increasing up high with a minor (Everest) storm
  • Summit attempts are expected this week.
  • Teams are ready, preparation for most teams all excellent.
  • We appear to have many experienced well prepared expeditions on the North side this year. However, we also have large numbers of climbers.

Updated 5/2/98 US

  • The wind is very calm.
  • Craig was expected to attempt the summit on May 15th, but we are expecting numerous bids soon if the weather holds.
  • Check back, soon

Updated 5/1/98 US

  • VERY QUIET: TOO QUIET
  • Many climbers still acclimatizing.
  • Summit attempt being planned.
  • Who's going first ? Check Back !

Updated 4/30/98 US

  • We expect some Early Summit Attempts, if the weather holds.
  • Many climbers are at ABC.
  • Cooperation is reported high.
  • Very little snow up high, it could be a record year on the North Side.
  • Numerous experienced teams.

Updated 4/29/98 US

  • The weather has improved, and many climbers are heading back up to ABC.
  • So many climbers are on the North Side additional ropes had to be fixed up  the North Col beside the ropes fixed by the Russian/Chinese Teams..
  • Teams are cooperating very well.
  • It appears with the very light snow cover up high that many are climbing the North Side this year.

Updated 4/28/98  US              

  • VERY LIGHT SNOW COVER UP HIGH
  • The weather is turning a little bad with some teams descending to Base Camp. See our report
  • 15 Expeditions on the North Side this year.
  • Many teams were delayed at the start due to the road from Kathmandu being covered with snow in many places.
  • Everyone is reportedly working well together.
  • The Russians (two teams) and the Chinese team is leading. Ropes are reportedly fixed to camp 7800m on the North Ridge. Very good progress is being made.

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