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 Nov. 11-20th, 1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 11/20/99 Report

  • Autumn Everest 99: EXPEDITION SAMUEL RUBIO EVEREST99. CASTILLA AND LEON. LAST OFFICIAL NOTICE.
     
    I believe that somebody said once (and if someone didn't say it directly, it must have been insinuated at least) that happiness is not an absolute value. Rather, we must look for the feelings of maximum placidness from within
    ourselves. And the lovers of nature and the magical world of the mountains, we found the best and most intense pleasures fighting the types of mountains like Everest.

    The conditions have changed sensibly with respect to previous official notices. Now I am seated comfortably in front of the computer, the
    temperature of the room is pleasant, the sun already has gone down and the night has extended its black veil on the city, and in this inappreciable state, the moment has arrived from the valuations...

    The Expedition Samuel Rubio to Everest 1999, left from the airport of Barajas back on the 24th of August. We left the long length of time where
    we, obtained the economic resources, the necessary permissions of the Government of the Nepal, the medical certifications, the training, the
    preparation of long bills of material and equipment as well as its later acquisition, management of labor permissions, logistic discharge and a
    length et cetera currencies...

    The initial diligences in Kathmandu gave their fruit quickly and soon we directed ourselves towards the mountain; after one week of approach march,
    the 6 of September the Base Camp was reached, at 5,300 meters of altitude, where there were already some of our Sherpas that had already worked more than ten days in the cascade of seracs of the Khumbu. During the month of
    September, we were under the effects of the monsoon, and in more than a month the snow accompanied to us daily. Some days started with Base Camp being completely covered with a snow layer that was beautiful and problematic.  Other days, we awoke to a cloudless sky that the snow would inescapably arrive in the afternoon.  However, in spite of being the only Expedition that operated at this time in the Nepal side of Everest, we worked to good rate and our ropes were laid little by little way towards the sky.

    At the end of the month of September, after days of uncertainty, we surpassed the barrier of the 7,500 meters, in the place denominated like the
    Yellow Bands in the lateral inclined one of the Lothse.

    Everything foretold a happy outcome, the summit could almost be touched with the fingers and seven of the nine climbers surpassed the 7,100 meters.  Camp II (to 6,500 meters of altitude) was perfectly supplied to support a long siege, and in it was deposited all the necessary material for an attack to the top. In spite of the large difficulties, the hope to make summit became more real.

    Then, there was a hurried descent from Camp II because of a serious disease of Onchu, one of our Sherpas.  This brought as to Base Camp then, a long period of bad weather followed that disabled any attempt of ascent.

    The possibility of climbing the mountain was exhausted by the inclement weather.  We had to resign to our realization with a bittersweet flavor in
    our hearts - on one hand; we were enraged to give up on the materialization of our dreams.   On the other, consciences were calm in knowing and
    appreciating the value of the affluent work we had done with firm conviction.

    Gathered our Base Camp, we descended looking once in a while to our back towards Everest that was to us arrogant and arrogant adorned, as if it made fun of us, poor mortals, with a limpid sky as not very often we had contemplated.

    But then, there was ephemeral improvement. A few days later we celebrated our decision of abandonment when conditions get worse throughout Himalayas. We learned of the tremendously aggressive conditions that caused, not only the impossibility of progression all Expeditions that were dispersed in different mountains, but a dramatic end for many of them causing more than 18 mortal summit victims.

    With the arrival to Spain on October 30th, the epic of events, uncertainty, and of found feelings was finished.  The expedition members have memories
    that will comprise the most intense moments of our lives.

    The image of Jaime Rubio, the true father of this Expedition, always gravitated over the Base Camp.  And, like in his beginnings, he believed in
    this Expedition and was able to put it in motion. Also, Jaime was the first person who knew in the precise moment our decision to leave the mountain. The shade of Samuel Rubio, presided over our decisions and even watched our
    passages from above our heads, surpassing the height of the Everest, without a doubt guarding our security.

    The meeting of Castilla and Leon with the President Juan Jose Lucas attended by the people in charge of Education, as well as Spain Box, Dredged Construction P.O., S.A., Retecal, Kenwood, Turbofil, Resay and other companies, as well as their leaders (the people in charge of the economic support of the Expedition) but the point in which at any moment the Expedition Samuel Rubio to Everest 99 found the endorsement essential.

    Senovilla Gaul from Box Spain and Cristino Torνo with the Internet pages, was in charge to have informed to the public opinion and to maintain the
    thread of the interest in a level so elevated that he does not find comparison in the sport of the alpinism in our community throughout history.

    In the cold and desolated location of our Base Camp, the messages of support sent by Internet, as the most opposed origins, they served to warm up our hearts and to give spirits to us of which sometimes we were deficit. Behind them, there were so many people. Relatives and friends, dear or close beings and in many occasions unknown by us who integrated themselves simultaneously
    in a so distant and so near nexus that he obtained the one that many feelings vibrated simultaneously in spite of the enormous distance.

    We were so close that we almost could touch the sky with the fingers. Now, already in our houses, we have left one long task. We will try to approach
    more gigantic mountains of the Himalayas and to their people with our knowledge and our images and commentaries.

    Castilla and Leon have an incredible geographic frame with spectacular mountains that conform a beautiful and imposing land of game for the
    practice of alpinism and as much, the young generations as those that are not it as lucky to have them in reach. The practice of the alpinism will allow to all its best followers, the being as sport but also they are, without doubt, better like people.

    In name of the participants and all the expedition members, I send a warm hug to you that locks up feelings that the rigorous cold of high mountains
    of the Himalayas have been able stop. Where there is a mountain you will find to a being determined to reach its culminating point with the only
    object to progress, once reached its objective to return to begin with without again. This fixation transferred to all the manifestations of the
    life, is what defines the human being.

    We will return to the Everest? Doubtlessly the question floats blowing by the wind... and there it is where you must look for the answer.

    Isidoro
    November de 1999 EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net

Daily News: 11/19/99 Report

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland

His answers to the first set...

Q..) Mallory was one of Europe's best rock climbers.  Could he have free climbed the second step considering the altitude and time of day?  How
difficult is it to free climb the second step? (that is to climb it without the aid of the ladder). thanks Ross

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  Hi Ross. I have only looked down on the Second Step (from the summit), so I speak from a position of ignorance about the terrain. But I know something about the man. I've always believed Mallory
could have surmounted the Second Step, which is generally considered to be the crux of that route. Firstly, it is possible that he went up a different way: everyone assumes that they went up the wall where the ladder now is, but Mallory was approaching the problem with an open mind- he was, after all, the first climber to address the problem. And I'm told there are possibilities to the right. Secondly, we always tend to assume
that our predecessors were inferior climbers to us. I think this is a mistake. Mallory was enormously motivated to succeed; it was his last chance on the mountain, he always felt he had his name on it, he had  virtually promised to climb it (this was on his American tour in '23) and I know from personal experience that when you are nearing the summit of Everest you are possessed by a huge desire to get there. You are mad for it, and you gain the strength of a madman. Your problems begin on the descent. Conrad Anker said on film immediately after free-climbing the second step that he thought that Mallory and Irvine could have done it. I believe that assessment. 

Q.) Will there be another expedition to the site of where Irvine lies? This and the other oxygen bottles and their pack frames must be the next targets for investigation.

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  I'm afraid there will be an unholy
scramble for Sandy Irvine's body next spring, with several teams racing to capitalize on the media exposure that poor old George got. I find this worrying as he is reported to be sitting up, with the face exposed and I feel very sorry for the family when they have to see him staring out of the tabloid newspaper pages. Although I'm part of the media circus, being a BBC television producer, I feel that the way we presented Mallory's body within the context of our 50 minute BBC documentary celebrating the man was acceptable. I think seeing sensational photographs in a newspaper
without the context explaining who he was..... is unacceptable. I would love to go back and find Sandy Irvine because I think he might be carrying my great-uncle Somervell's camera which might contain the image that will prove that Mallory and Irvine. I would also like to see him given a proper burial, just as my colleagues gave George Mallory a proper Christian
burial. But I am in contact with the family and will ask them what they want- I think their feelings are paramount.

Q.)  Was it the teams main goal to find clues pertaining to the mystery of Mallory & Irvine and not to summit? Or was making the summit, one of the main goals of the expedition as well as finding clues of M&I ?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  There were two aims. One was to find evidence on the mountain, and to be frank we all expected to find Sandy Irvine's body and maybe the
camera- that's why it was such a shock to find Mallory. The second aim was to free-climb the Second Step to see whether they could have done it, and to follow that up with a push through to the summit. 

Q.) When did you find out that the team had found the body of Mallory?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  I found out on the 2nd of May, from the BBC.

Q.) Was Mallory's body found relatively close to where you thought it would be found?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  No. Jochen and I thought that the body reported by Wang would be close to the Chinese camp.  Conrad found Mallory well below that level- in fact it was only found because of his insistence on searching well away from the predicted position. That's a tribute to his mountain craft and to Eric Simonson for choosing such a strong team. I still believe that Wang saw Irvine...and he's waiting to be found, by someone respectful I hope.

Q.) Do you think that Norton's Kodak camera that was lent to Mallory would be found on or near either Mallory or Irvine. Where do you think the camera is?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  The camera was actually my great-uncle Howard Somervell's. When I was 12 years old he told me how he lent it to George Mallory on the North Col just before he disappeared  - and I resolved to a) climb Everest for myself and b) find the camera. My search for the camera was the whole reason why we were there this Spring; I sold the idea of a filmed search to my employers the BBC, and it was BBC money that made all of this possible. This fact has been somewhat overlooked in all the media excitement. I believe Sandy Irvine is carrying the camera: Eric's team searched
carefully for the camera and it wasn't anywhere around Mallory's body, so either it came off during the fall or he had handed it to Sandy. And why do you think he might have done that?.....exactly! 

Q.) Graham, I just read the Lost Explorer. Conrad says without a doubt he does not believe Mallory and Irvin could've climbed the second step. Do you believe with their primitive equipment and no adequate rope they indeed could have surmounted the 2nd step and from there made the top only to fall on the descent?

A.) [Graham Hoyland]  Hi there. I haven't read the book yet...but I gather Conrad felt that the exposure was too great (that's the feeling of terror you get when you have a 9000 foot drop beneath you). But he is possibly forgetting that Mallory ran around on his father's church roof as a boy, and was used to the sort of long run-out on hemp ropes that none of us would dare to do today. He was very used to extreme exposure.


As to whether they did it.....well, I have always stuck to a
romantic belief that they succeeded on sheer spirit and human courage-in-adversity. But my head tells me that it was very unlikely . So there is a head and heart struggle inside me- but the heart wins. Mallory and Irvine definitely climbed Everest in 1924, and died on the descent. And one day I will prove it. 

Cheers Graham

Graham New novel is available For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!

The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last. The earlier the order the lower the number !

Daily News: 11/18/99 Report

  • "The story that must be told."

They were called Romeo and Juliet of the Cold War.

Things become clearer ...

The big question for EverestNews.com became: When was Fran assisted down the mountain, by whom, and at what time. Or was she assisted at all ?

There were the initial reports that we covered a few days ago.

Then there was what the American were told.

Then the Uzbekistan revised story to be covered next.

In simple terms did someone try to help Fran down on the 23th or on the 24th as others had reported ??? EverestNews.com attempted to contact the Sherpa climbers and the one Tibetan climber who were making summit attempts on those days to see what they knew.

Finally in December 1998, this reply was received:  

"I now have finally spoken with our Sherpas who were with the South Africans.

Regarding the death of Fran, the Sherpas tell me that she was moved on 23rd (not 24th as was initially reported).  According to the Sherpas, she was not moved at all on 24th while our Sherpas were there.

I hope this information is of help to you. "

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Ang Tshering Sherpa
Managing Director Asian-Trekking

  • The Sherpas statement to Mr. Ang Tshering Sherpa, for whom they worked, supported the revised Uzbekistan revised story to be covered next.
  • As you can see, this is complex...

Next

  • What is believed to have happened based on the evidence, the day after Fran's summit, then the following day...

  • Rescues ? What was heard on the radios.

  • Sergi... and his plan ?? and what might had he been doing...

  • The attempt to re-tell this story can be found on Fran...with all the updates to be added there. We want to finish this story in the next week...
  • Graham Hoyland's New Novel "Death On Everest"

For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!

The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last. The earlier the order the lower the number !

Daily News: 11/17/99 Report

  • "The story that must be told."

They were called Romeo and Juliet of the Cold War.

Confusion continues...

After the initial reports the Uzbekistan expedition changed their story to a story more consistent with the evidence.

But before we go there, let look at what others said. EverestNews.com and risk www.risk.ru were interviewing the others climbers in hopes of confirming what happened.

" Had a good conversation with Dave Hahn this morning (leader of my North side trip this past spring).  He made the following points/notes: Dave spoke to Ian and Kathy at the site of "high 5" on the afternoon of the 24th.  I and K were on their way down from their aborted summit attempt.  Dave related how Ian was weeping as he told the story of that very morning.  There was no question in Dave's mind that they were shattered by the experience and that they had "given up" their summit bid.  Dave had no reason to think that the story they told him was anything other than the truth.

Ian reported to Dave: I and K and their Sherpas had been climbing up near the first step, when he looked down and saw Fran's body.  He said he thought she was dead, until Fran raised an arm and tried to wave.  At that time they descended to Fran (maybe these are the mysterious footprints). Ian said that he and K and the SA Sherpas, and the Usbeks,  worked for 2 full hours to drag Fran back up to below the 1st step.  At that point the Uzbeks said they were going on.  The SA Sherpas asked if they could go on too. Ian gave them permission to continue.  Ian and Kathy stayed with Fran for a while, but realized they could do nothing.  Ian said that Fran was mumbling "don't let me die"  over and over.  Not very coherent.  Said her face, limbs, etc, were all frozen at this point.

Ian said they decided they couldn't do anything further, stayed with her for a while, then decided to go down.

Dave said Kathy had lots of video cameras, etc, with her and was doing a lot of shooting.

Dave said that there is no question about the fact that the Uzbeks (or anyone else for that matter) summitted on the 27th (except for Sloezen, Alpert, and their Sherpa)."

Eric Simonson

This information was learned by EverestNews.com on August 29th, 1998. Several months after the death of Fran and Sergi...

EverestNews.com interviewed Heather MacDonald, and Dave Hahn was interviewed by our writer. Both confirmed the above story was what was told to them...

Next, a break. In December of 1998, the Sherpas climbers talk... When will the Sherpas say Fran was moved ? on the next update.

  • The attempt to re-tell this story can be found on Fran...with all the updates to be added there.

 

  • Graham Hoyland's New Novel "Death On Everest"

For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!

The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last. The earlier the order the lower the number !

Daily News: 11/16/99 Report

  • "The story that must be told."

They were called Romeo and Juliet of the Cold War.

The reports that confused everyone...

May 24, 1998

Information based on Anatoli Shabanov's report from base camp on 24/05/98:

21/05/98 the member of Uzbekistan expedition Rustam Radgapov climbed up from 6,400 to 8,200 m in a day.

22/05/98 Radgapov summited the top of Everest. Later in a day at about 13:30 two Czechs climbed a top also.

Sergei Arsentiev and Frensis Distefano, spent three nights at 8,200 m, started the climb and summited at 18:15. They summits without supplemental oxygen. Thus Frensis became the first American woman to do so, and only the second verifiable female ascent without oxygen.

23/05/98 the members of Uzbekistan expedition Oleg Grigoriev, Andrei Fedorov, Sergei Sokolov, Svetlana Baskakova (female) and Marat Usaev started from 8,200 m for the summit attempt. Just came from the tents they met coming down Arsentiev who exams them did they see Frensis. They gave him the tea and he went to the tents, the guys continue the ascent. Apparently Arsentiev and his wife spent the night on Everest without tents.

After climb the Step I climbers found Frensis lying without movement but still alive. They decided that Sokolov, Baskakova and Usaev will continue the attempt. Grigoriev and Fedorov stayed with Frensis for help. After medical consultation with base camp doctor they gave her oxygen with maximum expenditure (totally they spent three bottles) and carried out all the another medical prescriptions. Later some South African climbers and 3 or 4 Sherpas climbed to them. Together they could transport her down 100 m, but in spite of the rendering aid Frensis dead at about 11:00.

When Arsentiev heard on radio what happens to Frensis, he took the oxygen and went upstairs to them. On descent Uzbekistanian climbers did not met Arsentiev. They just found his ice axe and rope. Till that moment (evening May 24th) he still did not came t o 8,200-m camp and nobody knows where he is.

Sokolov, Baskakova and Usaev summited the top of Everest.

24/05/98 the members of Uzbekistan expedition Tukhvatullin Ilias, Zaikin Andrei and Dokukin Alexei made the ascent to the top.

The members of Uzbekistan expedition Balmagametov Khanif + 1 person (unknown name - the poor audibility) ascended to 8,200 m plan the summit attempt on 25/05/98. They found lost 5 bottles of oxygen and now trying to make up for the loss.

All the members of Russian expeditions left the base camp except Moshnikov and Slepikovsky awaiting at ABC (6,400 m) for any news about Arsentiev.

The members of Uzbekistan expedition are going to leave ABC on May 27th by yaks and to leave base camp to Kathmandu on May 28th by Jeeps.

Some details on Kulbachenko ascent. He climbed the summit tower on the right side by rocks while four another Russians ascended and descended on the left side by snow-and-ice couloir. He had been on the top at 16:35. There are some photos he made on the t op. (Information received from Shataev who met Kulbachenko in Moscow airport on May 24th). By the way Kulbachenko became the first climber from Belorussia to be climb Mt. Everest.

May 27, 1998

Information based on Anatoli Shabanov's report from base camp on 27/05/98:

No results in searching Arsentiev. It is supposed that he is dead. 26/05/98. It is confirmed that 3 Sherpas from South African team and 3 Chinese summited.

27/05/98 3 Americans reached the top and also Grigoriev and Fedorov from the Uzbek team, which had to stop their ascent on 23/05/98 to help Frencis Destifano-Arsentiev. Balmagambekov Hanif and Maz Roman, summited on 24/05/98 are now in ABC at 6 400 m. They have some problems with eye burns.

  • These reports were carried by EverestNews.com, Risk www.risk.ru (for whom these reports were sent), along with numerous others web sites, wire services, and news source across the world which repeated part of these stories. These stories were also told to the climbers on the mountain as you will soon see. But others knew this was not what have happened. EverestNews.com soon after learning these reports were not correct published information telling our readers there were problems with these reports. The real problem was: What did happen ?
  • Sadly, these reports however were repeated over and over, and still are stated on chat sites and by some climbers that were not there as what they believe happened.
  • The May 27 report that Grigoriev and Fedorov summited on May 27th basically "spilled the beans", in that they were not close to the top on the 27th.
  • The Uzeths would soon change their story. EverestNews.com would remove Grigoriev and Fedorov summits for several weeks in protest. We asked for proof ! The Russians at www.risk.ru were quick to smell that something was wrong, much quickly than we were...
  • The attempt to re-tell this story can be found on Fran...with all the updates to be added there.
  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net

Graham has answered the frist set which we will soon publish...

  • Graham Hoyland's New Novel "Death On Everest"

For Sale exclusively in manuscript digital form only on www.k2news.com Available Now !!!

The first orders of "covers" receive a signed numbered cover while supplies last. The earlier the order the lower the number !

Daily News: 11/15/99 Report

  • "The story that must be told."

They were called Romeo and Juliet of the Cold War.

Summit Day: May 22, 1998

Sergi and Fran started early for the Summit, estimated to be around 2-3 AM. Anatoli Shabanov, the leader of the Uzbekistan expedition, reported he watched them with a 60-fold telescope from the base camp. At 10:00 radio communication he told Moshnikov that he saw two person in the area of the First Step. He saw them at 14:00 right upon the Second Step (about 8,750 m). Rustam Radgapov (the member of the Uzbekistan expedition, who started his attempt at 8:00) passed them on the steep snow slope under the summit ridge (8,750 - 8,800 m) at about 15:30 - 16:00.   The pace of Fran's movement without oxygen was slower. Radgapov reported he was on the top at 16:45. About 17:45 during the descent from the top Radgapov met Sergi and Frances on the gentle slope near the rocks just 100 m from the top. .

Radgapov said he went together with them for about 50m back in direction of the top, trying to persuade them to turn back because it is quite late and they could not to come back before the darkness. Sergi told him that it was not necessary to be worried because they felt good and had a cash below (between the First and Second Steps) including one bottle of oxygen, the tent and some warm clothing. Radgapov on the descent saw that cash at about 8,630 m; it was almost empty sack and the bottle of oxygen. Later the extra tent was found at 7,700 m that means there was no tent in the cash at the time Radgapov saw the cash. Radgapov descended to 8,200 m at 20:30.

Pictures would later show up that would prove their summit.

The following climbers reached the Summit on May 22, 1998: Rustam Radgapov (40) Uzbekistan Uzbekistan Expedition, Sergei Arsentiev (39) Russian/USA Russian Expedition, Francis Arsentiev-Distefano (40) USA Russian Expedition, Kazumi Kondo (56) Japan JWAF and Dawa Sherpa Nepal JWAF.

To put Fran Summit in history, let's look at the facts:

Fran became only the 8th woman to Summit the North Side of Everest.

Fran became the first woman from the United States to Summit the North Side of Everest.

Fran reached the Summit without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Fran became the first woman from America to summit without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Both of the other two women to have done so were dead. Therefore, she became the only woman still alive to have summited Everest without oxygen…

To be continued...

Next

  • The initial reports/Something is wrong ??? What ? You reached the Summit when ??? Prove it !!!

  • What the Americans were told happened by whom.

  • The story the Sherpas confirmed happened (which EverestNews.com first learned several months later than the events.).

  • What is believed to have happened based on the evidence, the day after her summit, then the following day...

  • Rescues ? What was heard on the radios.

  • Sergi... and his plan ?? and what might had he been doing...

  • Optional: The Questions... there are many.

  • Optional: Why EverestNews.com waited... ??? (the above should give You some ideas....)

 

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Daily News: 11/13/99 Report

  • More Autumn 99 Results:

Sappero Alpine Association Manaslu North Exp.

Successful on 18th Oct. '99 09:00 am

T/L Mr. Koichi Ezaki

Mr. Hiroshi Kudo (Japan)

Japan

Mr. Kenichi Ijima (Japan)

South Ridge

Mr. Takeshi Inove (Japan)

Ms. Ruchia Takahashi (Japan)

Mr. Lhakpa Rita Sherpa (Nepal)

Mr. Phinzo Sherpa (Nepal)

Successful on 19th Oct. '99 08:40 am

Mr. Koichi Ezaki (Japan)

Mr. Toru Awam (Japan)

Mr. Palden Sherpa (Nepal)

Source: Himalaya Center, Nepal

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Daily News: 11/12/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99: Sergio Martini

"Only eight men climbed all fourteen 8000 meter peaks in the world, and three of them are Italians. 13 years after Reinhold Messner's exploit, and only months away from Fausto De Stefani's success, Italian climber Sergio Martini completed his Himalayan career climbing Mount Everest.

Martini, 50 years old, is a non-professional climber: still teaching physical education in public schools, still climbing and training during holidays, still walking and hiking his way from Nepal valleys up to the top.

He lives in Rovereto, a small town in Northern Italy surrounded by the Dolomites: there he started his career back in the Sixties, gaining attention in the climbers world with impressive new ways on Marmolada north face and joining two Patagonia expedition to Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

The Himalaya experience started in 1976: Martini was 27 and supported a successful expedition to Dhaulagiri. Then his first 8000: he reached K2 summit in 1983. "From that moment, I dedicated my time at the task, organizing one expedition every year" he tells. He climbs Macula in 1985, Nanga Parbat and Annapurna in 1986, Gasherbrum in 1987 and both Sisha Pangma and Cho Oyu in 1988. Then comes Dhaulagiri (1989), Broad Peak (1993), Hidden Peak (1994), Kanchenjunga (1995), Manaslu (1996), Lhotse (1997).

And Everest, Holy Mother Sagarmatha? "I tried it two times, in 1989 and 1998 - says Martini - and I reached the South Peak in the second attempt, with Fausto De Stefani's expedition". It's the only peak missing for his record and he's back on it last Spring.

"I did it at last. " . A day in his life he'll not forget. Now he's back home and started again his everyday life: school, home, and climbing. Sergio Martini is not a showman: someway he's just an old guy from the mountains. And his friends of the Italian Alpine Club in Trento had to build up a surprise party with 800 people to celebrate. That night, he was told he was going to a slide show. On stage, he whispered: "Thank you, but I'm not 8000 meter king. I'm not Reinhold Messner..."

Source: Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes, northern Italy, journalist

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Daily News: 11/11/99 Report

  • Q&A Mallory Questions for Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions and others... 

  • Everest Spring 99 Georgian Climbers:

Welcome!

New Mt. Mkinvartsveri (Kazbek, Urs-khokh) photos:

http://www.georgia.net.ge/meskhitb/phot.htm

Have a good day,

Slava Meskhi

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