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 October 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 10/9/99 Report

  • Everest Autumn 99 South Side:

The EXPEDITION EVEREST99 OF CASTILLA and LEON, has decided, unanimously between all the members of the expedition and with previous consultation with our sirdar (head of Sherpas) to abandon the attempt to ascend Everest. This is because of the persistent bad weather that has exhausted our working days and to the avalanche danger by the just fallen snow.

Source: EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

Daily News: 10/8/99 Report

  • Everest Autumn 99 South Side:

The days happen slowly but inexorably. While the hard climatic conditions make any attempt unfruitful work on the mountain.  This condemns us to the hard wait on desolate moraines of the Khumbu glacier of the where our Base Camp is installed. Our initial plans are crumbled every day. The snow continues to fall in the tracks of our passages through the Khumbu Icefall, the valley of Silence and the Lhotse face.  The path has been buried our fixed ropes and stairs, by nearly a meter of snow

At this moment, with almost the impossibility to ascend, the latent danger of the crevasses is added whose mouths are hidden by the recent snow, They have become mortal traps.

Still we have two weeks left in which our will of fight continues.  Our physical conditions are good (although we have to two Sherpas outside combat) and our acclimatization is ready (the seven of the nine expedition members have passed 7,100 meters of altitude).  But, there is something against which we cannot fight, and is against the adverse atmospheric conditions that are present at the moment. Life in Base Camp becomes monotonous and exasperating.   Only the great comradeship that reigns between the expedition members makes these lengths and times moderately bearable.

We are conscious that there are many people supporting us, who trust that we will arrive at the top of the Everest. At the moment the situation is not good, but we will always follow try even if a small possibility exists of reaching our dreams.  We will do so considering the necessary prudence that allows the one that we return all to our houses.


Source: EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

Daily News: 10/7/99 Report

  • Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges lost on Shishapangma

Alex and Dave were caught in an avalanche Tuesday on Shishapangma. They are presently "lost" and presumed dead.

Dave was a cameraman on the NBC/North Face high profile expedition filming for the upcoming NBC TV series which was to feature Alex Lowe along with other climbers. Dave was 29.

Alex, respected as one of the best US climbers, had summitted Everest twice and had significant previous 8000 meter experience. He was 40.

The irony of their deaths is that, apparently, a summit bid was called off a few days earlier due to Avalanche danger.... Reportedly they were around 19,000 feet when they were lost.

Alex's deaths highlights again the great danger of climbing 8000 meters peaks. One can fall when rock climbing, but Alex is not the first strong, exuberant, seemingly untouchable climber who has died on an 8000 meters peak. Due to Alex being an American, the press on his death will unquestionably be at a very high level. The press, apparently did hold the news, as EverestNews.com did, until the families were notified...

Alex Lowe will be remembered as a legendary mountaineer who was a master of technique and endurance. He will also be remembered as another who died while climbing in the Himalayans.

This is a VERY DANGEROUS SPORT. As we have said before, there are no easy 8000 meter peaks... Don't let anyone tell you anything different...


Barrabes has coverage you might not have seen...


NBC/CNBC should have significant continuing coverage due to the connection of the project...

  • Out of respect for Alex and Dave, the rest of the NEWS will be held.... Expect An Everest update on Friday.

Daily News: 10/6/99 Report

Daily News: 10/5/99 Report

Daily News: 10/4/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 97: The Fran and Sergi story will be told on EverestNews.com in detail after Everest Autumn 99 concludes. We had hoped to start the story before Autumn, but it did not happen and our friends from risk were out. We hope go slow and in detail day by day. It will be hard, but it must be told.

  • Gary Pfisterer and Ginette Harrison's DHAULAGIRI expedition is On !  However, EverestNews.com does not expect to receive report from them as they still have bugs to work out in the sat. phone system...

Daily News: 10/2/99 Report

  • Cho Oyu Autumn 99:

Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 1999 Expedition   http://www.adventure.co.nz/

1 October - Seven on the Summit! :Today seven members from the Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 1999 reached the summit of Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet- at 8201m, the sixth highest mountain in the world. After receiving a favorable forecast on Monday 27 September they started moving up the mountain from ABC on Tuesday by climbing to Camp I (6400m) and then to Camp II (7000m) on Wednesday. They then encountered bad weather conditions that prevented them from going any higher so they stayed put at Camp II for 36 hours and decided to mount a summit attempt from there, leaving at Midnight on Friday 1 October. Hence they missed out sleeping overnight at Camp III (7500m) and settled for a long summit day from Camp II to Camp II instead. The weather forecast had been for a relatively calm day with less snowfall for Friday and this proved to be the case. From ABC the watchers lost sight of the climbers as they ascended into cloud but at 1.00pm the group called in by radio from above the clouds reporting that they were on the summit with blue skies and little wind. The team members who made the summit of Cho Oyu today were Karl Tucker, and Takao Arayama, Sherpa Guides Ang Dorje and Lhakpa Chhiri and Guides Jim Litch, Dean Staples and Andy Lapkass. Peter Pappas had also climbed on summit day to some distance above Camp III height before turning around and descending with Chuldim Sherpa and Peter Choi had descended from Camp II on Thursday, happy with 7000m as his personal summit. Our current report at 3.00pm Tibet time from Dr. Rachel Bishop at ABC had Karl, Andy and the Sherpas nearly back at Camp II and Mr. Takao moving very slowly with Jim and Dean on the shoulder below the summit slopes. They thought they would be another 3-4 hours with Mr. Takao before they got down to Camp II to overnight.

Three other team members - Teri Elniski, Andy Hebson and Greg Cravatas had already departed for home from Base Camp last Sunday. After weighing up the pros and cons of waiting around for a possible summit attempt, they made the difficult decision to leave with other groups who were on their way home. Of interest is that from the whole group of climbers, Karl Tucker was the youngest in the group at 31 and Mr. Takao the oldest at 64! Congratulations go out to the seven summiters, a wonderful achievement, and to everyone else for their great efforts.

The climbers should arrive back down to ABC later on Saturday and they are then planning to possibly be back in Kathmandu by as early as Wednesday evening (Oct 6). Adventure Consultants Ltd - High Altitude Expeditions PO Box 97,  Lake Wanaka 9192,  New Zealand. Ph +64 3 443 8711        Fax +64 3 443 8733 Email   mailto:info@adventure.co.nz      Website  http://www.adventure.co.nz  

Planning, strategy and guidance are our specialties, success is what you give yourself !

  • Everest Autumn 99 continues !!!

At BC, 5,000m above sea level, clouds are coming in as usual. In a little it will start to snow, as it does every day. The monotony of life "downstairs" is in sharp contrast with life 2,000 m higher. At this same instant  Isidoro, M. Angel, Nando, Pura Dorje, Nima Dawa, and Onchu Sherpa are just about reaching the Yellow Band. To overcome this rock band means to have fixed the exposed Lhotse face. The Lhotse face is the main obstacle we have to negotiate before being able to set CIV, on the South Col, at 8,000m. From here we can launch the final attack to the roof of the world.

But we also had to delay things, due to unfavorable snow conditions near CIII. Sept. 24, we reached CIII at 7300m, only having fixed the route to approx. 6,800m. The fact of having reached this point after only 2 days after the definitive installation of CII, in spite of the deep snow, certainly has given us good hopes. It is not too much longer to the top.  

A small  snowstorm , not more than 5 cm of new snow at CII really, has though deposited a lot of snow above 7,000m, and everywhere else due to the winds. Fixed ropes and trials are covered, and we have been able to advance only 100m in 4 days. 

Today we will talk with the people working up high about the possibility of a summit push. We are all hoping we can make it, but we are also know that everything will depends on the wind, the cold, the altitude, nature. 

Source: EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn Samuel Rubio  http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/

 Daily News: 10/1/99 Report

  • Everest Autumn 99:

The Spanish North Side Everest expedition has abandoned their attempt due to avalanches.


Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp: We've limped back to base after summiting the big hill. A day later, big grins are painted on our faces: we're pretty darned pleased with our climb.

The climb to the top was spectacular. We left Camp 2 (23,400 ft.) at 11:30 at night. The moon was full two days earlier and it still lighted the peak. I never turned my headlamp on. The hardest part of the climb was the ascent to Camp 3. The trail in the snow had been blown full of snow, it climbed straight up for 1500 ft., and my body wasn't yet awake. 

Eight of us made the climb that night, Brad and I the last to leave camp. We quickly passed two Frenchmen and a Sherpa. Two other French climbers and our friend Patrick Kenny were a half hour ahead of us. The route was in excellent shape. The Korean-Japanese-Sherpa that had summited the day before did a great job. The hot sun and no wind of their summit day, combined with the sub zero temperatures of our summit day left the trail in great shape. 

We climbed quickly, reaching Camp 3 in about 2.5 hours. Above this, through the rock band, the route was fixed with rope. I used this as a handline and made fast progress through the rocks and onto the slope everyone thought suspect of avalanching. I dug about a dozen hasty pits and did some quick shear tests. My tests confirmed what yesterday's summiters had proven. The slope was safe.

This was a good thing, because at this point we caught up to the French climbers and Patrick. Above this slope the mountain became less steep. None of us were using supplemental oxygen and our progress slowed with the altitude and the hours of exertion. It was just short of dawn and the cold was incredible. My core was toasty warm, inside my down suit, but my fingers were freezing. I had to stop at least a dozen times to warm my hands. The lack of oxygen was most obvious when it came to staying warm. I don't really think it affected my speed or mental capacity as much as my thumb's circulation. It is easy to see how people get bad frostbite on 8,000 meter peaks. I certainly wouldn't want to get trapped above 8,000 meters. I'm certain I'd lose some fingers.

Dawn was amazing, a wonderful distraction from the climb. Behind and below us (everything was below us), the peaks were turning shades of pink and orange. Brad and I stopped to shoot some video. It was a good excuse to catch our breath and revel in the beauty of the high mountains.

It really was beautiful on Cho Oyu. The summit was among the most spectacular that I've visited. The views were breathtaking: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Kanchenjunga, Jannu, Ama Dablam and the whole Khumbu to the east and Shishapangma, Manaslu and Annapurna to the west. We summited at 8 a.m. and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The whole world was laying there, waiting for us to drink it in with our eyes.

The climb to the summit was fantastic, the descent was torturous. We felt so good up top, we decided to return to ABC the same day. It took us 8.5 hours to reach the summit (a climb of 3,500 vertical feet), we spent one hour on the top. It took us 8.5 hours to get back to base. On the descent, already hard enough on the knees, I tried to slide down a long snow slope, lost control, whacked my forehead with my ski pole, twisted my right ankle and knee and came to a sudden and violent stop feet away from a Japanese women. I tried to laugh it off, embarrassed as I was. My knee is still killing me.

Brad and I were warmly welcomed back at base. Most of the big groups were heading home, without giving the summit a shot. Folks were busy packing and 50 or more yaks were tethered about. Everyone dropped what they were doing to hear our tales. We ended every story with our admiration for the Korean-Japanese-Sherpa team that preceded us to the top. We would have never made it if they hadn't put in the amazing effort of breaking trail from Camp 3 to the summit. Brad and I are honored to have followed in their footsteps.

  • Check out www.risk.ru for some more interesting News & reports.

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