Without
our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our
sponsors.
October 1998 Daily Reports
For Latest
News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of
all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to
visit the Site Index... along with the homepage...
Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !
Daily News: 10/31/98 Report
Everest Autumn 98 ! If you missed it check out the
NEWSFLASH below on Carlos Pitarch Francisco.
EverestNews.com
needs your follow up questions for Heather Macdonald
(see below) by Monday ! submit to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net.
Don't miss it, this will be the last set of questions for Heather ! her complete interview
is on The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
at the end.
Heather Macdonald Resume
Mountain Guide, Ashford, WA
Expeditions and Climbs as a guide for IMG or
RMI
Mt. Rainier: Senior
guide since 1990, over 107 ascents of Mt. Rainier, including 4 winter ascents.
Cascades Mt. Adams:
via north and south side routes forbidden peak west and east ridges.
California
Mt. Whitney: 2 ascents of the Mountaineers route winter attempt of East Face (reached 14,000 ft.)
Mexico: 4 Mexican Volcano expeditions including numerous ascents of Ixta Orizaba
Popocatereti.
Bolivia
Expedition to Condoriri valley: ascents of Apacheta, Illusion, and El Diente (17,000 ft)
Pakistan Expedition to Hushe Valley (reached 19,500 on
unnamed peak)
Nepal
Expedition to Paldor (reached 18,200 ft.)
Tibet 1993
Shishapangma Expedition (reached 25,200 ft.)
1994 Everest North Col (reached 26,000 ft.)
1995 Cho Oyu (Summit 26,900 Ft)
1996 Cho Oyu Summit
1988-1995 Extensive rock climbing throughout the
United States
1.) Joshua Tree, California
2.) Red Rocks, Nevada: Numerous Grade IV and Grade V
routes including Dream of Wild turkeys, Prince of Darkness, Eagle dance, Levitation 29,
and Yellow Brick Road
3.) Smiths Rocks, Oregon: sport Climbs up to 5.11 a/b,
led bolted routes up to 5.10d
4.) Leavenworth, Washington
5.) Indian Creek, Utah including Generic Crack
6.) Rifle Colorado
8.) Hueco Tanks, Texas
9.) Telluride Colorado, Opher wall
10.) Owens River Gorge, California
11.) Yosemite California
* Can led 5.8/5.9 gear routes
Ice Climbing
1.) Columbia River Gorge
2.) Redstone, Colorado Avodado, Redstone pillar: The
Drool
3.) Aspen Colorado
* Can follow Grade V and lead Grade III routes
Medical Background
October 1995: Wilderness first Responder and CPR
certification Trained to EMTII-D
EverestNews.com
Interview with Mark Pfetzer young
Everest Climber (in 95 on the North Side reached 25,000 ft, and 96 when he reached Camp
4), has also agreed to an interview. We have gained a little more time, but will need to
submit questions to him by Wednesday !!! Submit questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
Risk www.risk.ru
has
updated their site with new reports from Lhotse Middle !
Everest Autumn 98 ! Well as you all know, the news
from Everest is not always good. Carlos Pitarch Francisco has returned
to Spain and has been checked into the hospital with what is being described as
two
frozen hands and one frozen foot. He attempted and had success with a very
difficult Summit of Everest, it appears he has paid a price. Let's all
hope for the best for him. This would seem to partly explain the lack of
information. There usually is a reason....
If you missed it Carlos Pitarch Francisco was the first person (and
only one of two) during Autumn Everest 98 to reach the Summit of Everest. His group of two
or three members of the Spanish Expedition and three sherpas (from Asian-trekking which
was supporting this expedition) went for the Summit. But with bad weather and very high
winds they are decided to turn around, except Carlos, who decided to try reach the summit
alone, under his own risk. Nobody went with him. He had to break trail with very heavy
snow and go without fixed ropes, because he was the first up this Autumn. He made it to
the Summit and back down with his life ! Some information on him is on the EverestNews.com link for him.
Daily News: 10/30/98 Report
EverestNews.com
Interview with
Heather Macdonald (Part 4):
Q.) This is a tough one, but can you give "the armchair
climber" an idea how other climbers handle death. From the right and the left !
A.) Death, I've dealt with it so much and it's never easy. When
someone dies it brings one's mortality right under the nose so you can smell it. Death is
hard on the people left behind but its one of our greatest teachers and gifts. It can be a
gift of such insight and wisdom ! I still climb for a lot of dead climbers, And sometimes
up there in the stillness, in-between my breaths I can fell them around me.
Q.) What do you think about companies short roping climbers on
mountains to obtain a Summit?
A.) Short roping is a great technique if it's used correctly !
We were hoping to post Heather's resume today, but look for it this
weekend. Please submit any follow up questions by Monday ! to: everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
Mark Pfetzer young Everest Climber (in 95 on the
North Side reached 25,000 ft, and 96 when he reached Camp 4), has also agreed to an
interview. We need also to submit questions to him on Monday !!! Look for
his resume this weekend also.
Q.) What is her opinion about the role of the guide on 8000 meter
peaks?
A.) Very interesting question ! The role of the guide is to keep
people safe. That means fixing rope, putting in camp, and turning around when the mountain
says to go back. Of course, getting to the top is part of guiding but that takes a back
seat to SAFETY.
Q) When she guides on Everest, how does she deal with her own
ambitions for summiting?
A.) If I am hired as a guide that will always take priority over my
ambitions for summiting. That's just the way it goes. Guiding is more about PEOPLE than it
is about technical climbing.
Q.) Questions relating to the state of the environment on different
peaks. Are there still efforts made to clean up? Are climbers still being
ignorant about the garbage they leave or are they making real efforts?
A.) Many thing are being done to help the environment on Himalayan
peaks. This year our team and a number of others collected our human waste in plastic
barrels, had it carried down the mountain and buried it in the dirt far away from base
camp. The Tibetan Mountaineering Association sent in teams of Tibetans to collect garbage,
that would be burned. Oxygen bottles are being carried down Everest by paid sherpas. These
bottles will be refilled and used again. Efforts are being made ! Plus we always
make
efforts to clean our fixed rope.
These questions come from a HA climber (woman) friend of ours that
is planning to go to Everest (probably) in 99, or possibly a different 8000 meter peak.
Q.) As I am interested in high altitude physiology, in particular
women's, would like her impressions about acclimatization/performance of women at altitude
particularly vs. acclimatization/performance of man at altitude.
A.) Women are generally smarter about going to altitude and go
slower so there is less sickness. But to be honest there is little known about altitude
physiology in general and even less known about women. Why do some people get sick at
10,000 ft. and others can go to 28,000 ft. without oxygen ???? What I have seen over the
years is that men and women are about the same up high in terms of acclimatization. I
would say the playing field is pretty level at 25,000ft ! What is really unknown is what
for example does the pill do to the body at altitude? there have been two reported cases
of blood clotting up high with women using the pill.
Q.) Would like Heather to assess both South Side and North
Side standard routes on Everest: difficulties, dangers, success rates, etc.
A. ) If you want the best shot of summiting Everest go to the South
side. Right now the Khumbu ice fall seems fairly more stable than it has in years past.
The North side does not have any dangers like the Khumdu ice fall but from 28,000 ft. on
up the route has three major rock steps to overcome on an exposed ridge. Keep in mind the
ridge is a mile long ! You're at 28,000 ft for 12 hours negotiating this ridge all the way
up and back. On the South side your not at that altitude for that long. The success rate
is much higher on the south side.
Q.) It would also be interesting, at least for people considering
guided trips, to know which guided groups summited Cho-Oyo this Fall, and how many clients
out of which groups. Also data about safety would be appreciated, if available.
A.) Russell Brice was here and got one client up. OTT (Jon Tinker)
was there and had maybe six including himself and another guide Henry Todd was there and
got a bunch of people up. We got one customer up. It was a tough year in terms of weather
and route conditions. Lots and lots of SNOW !
The last part of our questions on Friday ! You, our readers of
EverestNews.com can submit follow up questions to her : everestnews2004@adelphia.net , for the
next few days, but don't wait !!!
Everest Autumn 98 ! EverestNews.com is still piecing
together this Great Summit by Carlos Pitarch Francisco, the first person during Autumn
Everest 98 to reach the Summit of Everest. We understand that two or three members of the
Spanish Expedition and three sherpas went for the Summit. But with bad weather and very
high winds they are decided to turn around, except Carlos, who decided to try reach the
summit alone, under his own risk. Nobody went with him. He had to break trail with very
heavy snow and go without fixed ropes, because he was the first up this Autumn. He made it
to the Summit and back down safely ! Hopefully more to come on his efforts. See the
EverestNews.com link for him.
EverestNews.com
Interview with Heather Macdonald (Part 2):
Q.) Do you think every expedition should have a satellite
phone? Even though they are expensive, prices have gone down significantly in recent
years.
A.) If you are a private climbing expedition and you
don't have a sat. phone that's up to you. But I think if you are running a commercial
expedition it's a nice service to offer your clients or at least having e-mail ability.
Q.) How do you finance your climbing career? Other than
guiding, do you have any other forms of income?
A.) Right now I am able to support myself by just guiding. But I
have done construction in the past, dug ditches, worked at an indoor rock gym, taught
gymnastics, groomed race horses....etc....
Q.) How would you recommend aspiring mountaineers get started
climbing?
A.) There are lots of good entry level climbing courses out there.
(Rainier Mountaineering Exum) Get into one of those and go from there. I choose to go to
Joshua Tree and set up camp in a cave for a few months and climb with as many good
climbers as I could find. Another place to find partners might be your local rock gym.
Q.) What are your future plans? Are any more 8,000 meter peaks
in your future? Do you think you will possibly attempt K2 to be the first American
woman to summit?
A.) I used to have dreams of being the first woman to summit the
three highest peaks in the world but I do not think that is my calling. I'd like to go
back to Everest ....to finish the job that I have started. This spring I will be leading a
trek to Mt. Kailas, the most sacred mountain in the Himalayas. We will make the tradition
circuit around the Mountain.
These next three questions come from a member of Mark Pfetzer 99
Everest expedition. He is under 18 !
Q.) What's the largest and the smallest team that she's been a part
of (rope team included).
A.) The largest team I have been part of is about 35 people and the
smallest is about 8.
Q.) Does she think that an 18 year old can lead a team of three on
Everest..(given his experience)?
A.) I Think an 18 year old can certainly climb Everest but leading
or guiding people up there requires a different set of skills. And those leadership skills
generally come through years of experience.
Q.) If a team uses no sherpas and hauling all of our own gear. Is
this foolish? Considering that two, on the team of three, will not be using Oz.
A.) This question is difficult to answer because it really depends
on the experience level of this team. If its your first time to an 8000 meter peak I would
recommend sherpas and oxygen. Maybe 15 people in the world (aside from Sherpas) have
summitted Everest without oxygen and those were people with a gift for high altitude.
More on Thursday ! You, our readers of EverestNews.com
can submit
follow up questions to her : everestnews2004@adelphia.net
EverestNews.com
Interview with Heather Macdonald (Part 1):
Heather, Great talking to You
!
Q.) First tell us about Heather Macdonald: What do you do for a
"living", and who you are. We think most of the readers of EverestNews.com
would
know you are a IMG guide and a climber, but tell us more !
A.) When I was little, maybe 5 or 6 years old my father began to
take me hiking all over the US. I loved our adventures in the wilderness together. At the
age of 15 I went to France for the summer through a student program that my high school
offered. It was there that I realized I wanted to be a mountain guide and lead people to
the tops of mountains. Climbing and guiding to the Europeans is like Baseball is to
Americans. I watched the professional guides there and I knew that was it ! I had found my
passion. I climbed Mt. Rainier for the first time when I was 17 and by the age of 20 I
became a full time guide working for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. in the summers.
The summer job guiding was great but I wanted more. I wanted to
climb and guide internationally and work year round. Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and
George Dunn took me under their wings and in 1993 I began working for International
Mountain Guides. This was three years after I began working for International Mountain
Guides. This was three years after I began working on Mt. Rainier. Since that time I have
been on 7 Himalayan expeditions, 5 to McKinley, 5 to Aconcagua and have summited Rainier
110 times. I have not regretted one day in the climbing boots. If you wake up in the
morning and hate what you do for a living, you have lost the game. You must do what makes
you feel most alive !
When I do have time off, I spend most of it studying a dance called
Flamenco. Its an old gypsy dance from Southern Spain with bid skirts and castenets.
Dancing keeps me in great shape.
This is a very short version of my story. I have left out the years
I have spent trying to finish college, my incredible love affairs and the many other parts
of the world that I have lived in or visited. But I move on to your more specific
questions.
Questions:
Q.) How does Cho Oyo compare with the 8,000 meter peaks you've
climbed? Some say it is the "easiest" of the 8,000 meter peaks.
Understanding that the statement is relative, what are your thoughts?
A.) Cho Oyu, G2, and Shishapangma are the easiest 8000 meter peaks
to climb. Everest. K2, Kanchenchunga are in a league completely on their own. They are
really major league ball. Not only are they the highest, they are HUGE. The distance
between camps is always longer than on a peak like Cho Oyo. For example, the high camp on
the North Side of Everest is higher than the summit of Cho Oyu !
Q.) There really is not much published about Cho Oyo. What is
the typical route up Cho Oyo?
A.) The typical route up Cho Oyu is the North West
"corner", first climbed by Tichy in 1954.
Q.) How many other routes are there? What's the most difficult
routes?
A.) The most difficult route on Cho Oyu exist on the Nepali side,
the South face route for example.
Q.) What's the vertical rise of the route most recently taken
on Cho Oyu?
A.) I think the vertical rise is about 9,000 ft. , probably about as
much as Everest. McKinley has a rise of 17,000 ft. which I believe is a world record.
Q.) There aren't many other 8,000 meter peaks with such a large
summit plateau. What is Cho Oyo's like? Are the winds unbearable?
A.) Cho Oyu is the only 8000 meter peak with a summit plateau that
large ! The wind on this mountain are very tame, unlike the North Col. Route on
Everest where often times it sounds like a 747 jet flying right above your head !
Q.) Talk about the views from Cho Oyo. It is understood that
they are fantastic, with Everest and Makalu in the distance. You've seen the view
first-hand ... what do you think?
A.) The view from the summit is like looking into the face of God.
There is a true sense of the infinite....of the vaster universe. Everest is just beautiful
in all her glory.
Q.) What do you think about alpine versus big expedition
climbing? Have you ever climbed large peaks without a large expedition and fixed
lines? What, personally, are your likes and dislikes with each style?
A.) I personally have never climber a bid peak alpine style and its
probably time I do. If you are going alpine style you better have a lot of experience and
know what the heck you are doing. I've watched come incredible alpinist climb at altitude
and it poetry in motion but I have also seen a lot of idiots die.
Q.) What are the primary differences between climbing in the
Karakoram and Khumbu areas of the Himalayas? For example, are the rocks better for
placing fixed anchors? Are the views better? Is the snow the same
consistency? Which do you like better and why?
A.) The Himalayan are high but they are also formed in massifs, so
they are big and bulky. The Karakoram are high with the most incredible relief I have ever
seen. Dead vertical rock walls appear to rise out of nowhere. G4 is the perfect mountain.
All sides of it are steep. like K2. No easy way up the damn thing.
More on Wednesday ! You, our readers of EverestNews.com
can submit
follow up questions to her: everestnews2004@adelphia.net
Enrique Guallart-Furio was born in Valencia (Spain) in 1957. He holds a Bachelor of
Arts degree. At present he works in the Spanish savings bank, Bancaja. He was
President of the University Mountaineering Club of Valencia (Spain). He was first Spanish
climber member of American Alpine Club (U.S.A.) and he also collaborated with other
mountaineering clubs around the world.
He began hiking and climbing at the age of 13. During these years he climbed in the
Spanish ranges of Gredos (2 peaks), Picos de Europa (9 peaks), Pyrenees (45 peaks), Sierra
Nevada (3 peaks), Basque Mountains (5 peaks); Pyrenees (France); Alps of France and
Switzerland (Petite Aiguille Verte, Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Dom des Mischabels, Mont Blanc); Scottish Peaks (Beinn
Alligin, Liathach); Sierra Madre of Mexico (Popocatepetl, Iztaccihualt, an attempt to
Citlaltpetl), Sierra Madre of Guatemala (Tajumulco); Atlas of Marocco (Toubkal); Andes of
Ecuador (Cotopaxi, Ruco and Guagua Pichincha), Andes of Argentina (Aconcagua), Andes of
Chile (Volcano Osorno and an attempt to Ojos del Salado), Andes of Bolivia
(Sajama, an
attempt to Huayna Potosi and two attempts to Illimani); Elbruz and Cheguet (Caucasus);
Cascade Range (Rainer); Sierra Nevada (Whitney, Hoffman Peak, an attempt to Lassen Peak);
Rocky Mountains (Grand Teton); Alaska Range (McKinley); Kenya massif (Batian, Nelion
points); Kilimanjaro (Uhuru Peak, Mawenzi, Little Meru); Ruwenzori (an attempt to
Stanley); Japanese Alps (Fuji-Yama); Kinabalu (Low's Peak); Volcanos of Indonesia
(Kerenci, Semeru, Merapi); Snowy Mountains (Kosciusko, Towsend, Twynam, Muellers Peak);
Caucasus (Elbruz and Cheguet); New Zealand Alps (key Summit and an attempt to Mount Cook);
Antarctica (Massif of Vinson and Patriot Hills peak); Himalaya (Mera Peak, Imja Tse. An
attempt to Singu-Chuli and Everest, last spring 1997);
High mountain traverses: Pyrenees (Ordesa-Goriz-Pont d'Espagne), Himalaya (Hinku-Hongu
Valleys with descent by the Mingbo-La);
Seven Summits: He has reach 6 of 7 summits. The last one is the Everest. He tried last
year first time.
Poles: Only Spanish man that reached both poles. North Pole April 17th 1996 and South
Pole, January 10th 1995.
He has skied in Spain, Andorra, U.S.A. and Bolivia (Chacaltaya, the highest ski area in
the world).
He was the first Spanish ham radio operator (EA5 FOE) that spoke from the massif and top
of McKinley with other hammers outside the mountain. He was also the first ham radio
operator that transmitted daily (in VHF and HF systems) from the Bolivian Andes to Spain.
He often skin-dives in the Mediterranean Sea.
His photos for several international press agencies have been published in Mexico,
Australia, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Japan, Norway, U.S.A., Great Britain, Germany ,
Korea and Portugal.
He has directed 16 short films. Some of them have been selected in many International Film
Festivals and have won several awards. He directed the video Hunab-Ku in U-Matic SP High
Quality on a climbing expedition in Central America.
The Spanish Television Channel I (T.V.E.) produced a program about his climbing life and
how he filmed "Los Hijos de Mercurio". He has been interviewed by Television
Argentina, National Geographic TV and Antena-3 TV and Television Espaρola
He directed radio programs in Cadena Ser (Spanish Radio Station) on nature,
ecological problems and mountains. He organized and was the speaker on a radio program
from Bolivia to Spain for the Spanish National Radio (R.N.E.) and he also did the same
from Mount McKinley (Alaska Range) for Antena-3 Radio (Spain).
He has traveled around the world and has visited 35 countries on seven continents.
He collaborated in the conservation programme Volcan de Agua (La Antigua, Guatemala) and
Calderona Range (Valencia, Spain).
In 1992 he opened two photographic exhibitions entitled "Rojo, Verde y Azul"
(Red, Green and Blue) and "Mujeres y Sensaciones" (Women and Feelings).
In the last exhibitions, the photos are of a large size, 150 x 100 centimeters. In
November 1993 he opened another show, "Emociones" (Emotions), with new
exhibitions in February and March of 1995.
The Regional Government of Valencia (Spain) selected last April to Enrique Guallart-Furio
like a elite sportsman class "A" in mountain sport. His wide experience was
taken during his 26 years in the mountain.
He is a well-known lecturer on nature, mountains and cinema.
Daily News: 10/26/98 Report
Everest Spring 99: Our web site of the week is: Enrique
Guallart-Furio (from Valencia, Spain) his web site is: http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ever/ever.htm Also, the
main web is http://ww2.encis.es/avent/
where you can find many pictures of his adventures from around the world.
Everest is his last summit of the Seven Summits. We look forward to following
Enrique Guallart-Furio on Everest this Spring.
Autumn Everest 98: EverestNews.com received this message from the
Castellon Mountain Club, which we posted to the DF: " I'm writing you from Spain. I
would like to thank you for Carlos Pitarch Everest summit information. He is the strongest
person I ever knew. He arrives to Spain the 27 of October, and he seems to be
alright. Thanks from Castellon Mountain Club." EverestNews.com has made many new
Spanish contacts during Autumn Everest 98. We would like to thank all of them for their
help and we look forward to working with them in the future ! Thank You !
Because of the tragic events in Nepal, EverestNews.com
will begin
posting the Heather Macdonald (IMG Guide, Everest Climber, and a really nice person !),
interview on Tuesday. You, our readers of EverestNews.com can submit follow up questions to
her : everestnews2004@adelphia.net
The Crashed Helicopter has been found this morning at 7 AM this
morning 26th Oct 1998 below Lukla East of Phaplu Airport, a place called
Baisakhe, 7800
ft. by the side of Andhere Khola River.
The Pilot and 2 on
Board passenger have been found dead near the charred Chopper. One of the passenger Mr..
Ang Tendi Sherpa is an well known Tourism Entrepreneur of Nepal, a co-owner of Nepal's
Leading Trekking Company THAMSERKU TREKKING AND Co -founder of recently launched Domestic
Airlines " Yeti Airways"
May their souls rest in peace in the heavenly abode.
Reports prepared by Bikrum Pandey/HIMALAYA
Center Kathmandu, Nepal
Daily News: 10/25/98 Report
We have very tragic News from Nepal: This story is still developing,
but the best information EverestNews.com has right now is:
A.) An Asian Airlines helicopter with three people aboard left Lukla
Kathmandu airport yesterday morning on a rescue mission. The helicopter was to pick up
some trekkers that were in trouble, with at least one death (a Belgian trekker). Suraj SJB
Rana, was flying the helicopter, with a person we told was a very information Sherpa
abroad and J N Sunwar. The helicopter lost contact and is believed to have crashed. The
helicopter was attempting a high altitude rescue which is very dangerous flying at
altitudes that we would never see in American unless possibly by a military helicopter.
The helicopter is thought to have went down in this area of high mountains and huge
cliffs. Several helicopters has searched the area so far without luck in finding the crash
site. The weather was very very cloudy and bad. These men put their lives on the line to
help others in trouble.
B.) We received this report a few minutes ago from one on our
sources in Nepal:
The missing chopper is still missing, search has been unsuccessful
and after 4 pm bad weather. Award has been announced to the Clue give, or source finder of
the crash site. As soon as something is found out, I will sent you the report. I have also
alerted my staff. One of the Missing Passenger is Ang Tendi Sherpa, not a climber, but
co-owner of Nepal's leading trekking company "Thamserku Trekking" and co-founder
of newly started domestic Airlines "Yeti Airways". very energetic and successful
entrepreneur. Will be in touch tomorrow.
Bikrum Pandey Himalayan Center
C.) It is now very early morning on the 26th in Nepal, the crash
site has not been found, the passengers are missing. A very high reward has been issued
for information leading the site. However, the weather is bad and the potential
location of the crash is highly remote and high in the mountains. Very tragic news. Let's
all keep up hope for these heroes and their families tonight. They were trying to help
others in need. Let's hope the Lord is taking care of then right now.
The rest of the news will be held until tomorrow.
EverestNews.com.
Daily News: 10/24/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: Still no information on the
Japanese attempt on the South West Face of Everest !
The interviews with Waldemar
Niclevicz is now all on one page and has been added to the News index below.
Most readers have found it very interesting. The questions were from the readers of
EverestNews.com ! For those that don't know Waldemar, he is considered a great HA climber.
His web site is very nice.
Everest Spring 99: OTT Expeditions, led by Jon
Tinker, has informed us that they will be on the South Side of Everest in 1999 with a very
large expedition ! OTT was the first group to Summit Cho Oyu this Autumn.
Yes, Jon Krakauer has a new book out : Iceland : Land of the
Sagas by Jon Krakauer, David Roberts / Paperback / Published 1998 This
book is also on our New EverestNews.com Bookstore favorites
book page. This is not your normal paperback book !
Daily News: 10/23/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: For more information on Carlos Pitarch Francisco
of the Spanish Everest Expedition see the EverestNews.com
link
for him.
Several of you appear to have found the Everest 96 dispatches on the
Sandy Hill Pittman link we gave you. However, as others have pointed out, it is difficult.
Here it is: http://peacock.nbc.com/everest/main.html#home They are very
interesting.
Our interview with Heather Macdonald, a guide with IMG, who we
followed on Cho Oyu this year will appear next week, after the interview is posted you
will be welcome to submit questions to Heather for a few days ! For all the updates from
this expedition see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Autumn Everest 98: More information on Carlos Pitarch Francisco of
the Spanish Everest Expedition on Friday's News.
Spring Everest 99 (Yes, already !): Our sources are telling us that
Babu Chhiri Sherpa has changed the plan about
sleeping at the Summit of Mt. Everest spring of 1999. It does not appear that he will
carry out his dream in Spring of 99.
Part two of Waldemar Niclevicz interview is below. Waldemar was the
first Brazilian to climb Everest. For those that are new to EverestNews.com, we followed him
on K2 this year. (Part one is on the 9/16/98.) The questions were from the readers of
EverestNews.com ! For those that don't know Waldemar, he is considered a great HA climber.
His web site is very nice.
The Interview:
Q.) My question for you is this: What should I do to train for
climbing? I am in pretty good shape now, I work out 5 times a week, but would like to be
more specific in my training to enhance my climbing ability.
A.) The question is very generic. It depends of the style you are
going to practice. If you are talking about climbing high mountains, all your body
work must be turned into improving your aerobic capacity, which means, improve your
capacity of absorbing oxygen. Exercises of long duration are recommended: run at least 40
minutes (the ideal is to run at least 12 km in one hour), biking 70 km (non-stop), long
walks (20 to 30 km per day), exercises for the muscles (3 or 4 series with 30 to 40
repetitions each) and swim at least 2,000 meters. But to improve your ability as climber
it is necessary to climb ! Keep most of the contact with the mountain.
Q.) K2 is so much further north than Everest. Does that make
K2 on the whole a much colder mountain, with consequent problems for climbers?
A.) 2) K2 is not too much at north than Everest, but more into west
direction. Which turns that we don't have too much difference of coldness. Actually we get
warmer temperatures than at Everest because K2 climbing season is at summer. And Everest
has to be climbed on spring or autumn.
Q.) Can you tell us more detail about your summit day on Everest?
A.) In Everest I had the preoccupation of doing the final attack at
good weather because in 1991 I had done an attempt by Nepal side and suffered a lot with
snow and coldness. In 95, by Tibet side, I was glad to be in a good season and the final
attack was done in a very safe day. The weather was so good that I stayed 3 hours and 10
minutes at the top.
Q.) On Everest, I heard the weather was real bad. If so why did you
go for the summit?
A.) As I said before, the weather was very good.
Q.) Everest: Who made the decision on summit day ? What role did
Anatoli play for Henry Todd team? You were also on Henry Todd's team? Right?
A.) I was at Henry's team that had hired Anatoli as guide. He was a
great climber but his presence didn't change my strategy. Anatoli arrived at the top few
days later because he had a very strong cough attack. That delayed his climb and my
Brazilian partner and I arrived at the top before the others expedition members. The
decision of making the final attack that day was mine because I believed the full moon
would improve the weather. And it happened. It was the best day of that season.
Q.) Can you tell us arm-chair climbers a little more about why the
Italians did not like the Americans? Is it because the Americans did not pull their
weight?
A.) The Italians were very good climbers, the best that were on K2
this year. This is a point out of discussion - all of them were certified mountain guides.
When the other expeditions started to arrive we all hoped that the other climbers would
help us. Weather was very bad turning the climbing even more difficult. But, of course,
the climbers that were arriving were not acclimatized yet to help us. And the Italians
complained about the lack of collaboration. We tried to find alternative solutions and
asked each one to bring ropes up to camp 2, at 6,700m, then we could fix them. The
Americans were the first to bring their ropes up there. I personally enjoyed very much
being close to them. Several times I used theirs tents to sleep and I believe that besides
our team they were the most well prepared to help us.
Q.) From reading, it appears that K2 has successfully been climbed
primarily with very large teams. Typically, these teams had the manpower and
resources to fight against the daily storms by having significant numbers of
climbers. These climbers retrace steps, repair fixed ropes and fix campsites
multiple times through the climb. Then, with luck, a few climbers make it to the top
within a very short timeframe. This summer, there were no such large teams on the
mountain. Do you think it there were no successful climbs because the teams were
small or was the weather atypically worse than normal?
A.) I have no doubts that nobody summited K2 this year because
weather was very bad. I'm sure if weather were good, many of the climbers that were there
would have summited. But I must admit that if there were one or more two big expeditions
chances of success would have improved.
Q.) Does the failed attempt on K2 change the plans for Cho Oyo and
future plans outlined on your website? Would you prefer to go back to K2 as soon as
possible or continue on your plan?
A.) I've climbed Cho Oyo this year, nine days after summiting also
Shisha Pangma. It was our training for K2. Me and my partner at K2 project, Italian Abele
Blanc, will go back to K2 next year. Before it we are going to try climbing Gasherbrum and
Hidden Peak in order to prepare ourselves. We already have the permission of the Pakistan
government to climb K2. The only thing that changed on K2 project was about Makalu -
that now we intend to climb after K2.
Q.) Will the Magic Line ever be climbed? You have seen
it. Could you explain why it has been impossible for legendary climbers like
Reinhold Messner to climb it? Could you describe its difficulties?
A.) I believe yes, but it will be necessary a lot of luck to have
good weather, which is difficult in a mountain as K2. I believe Magic Line has
difficulties very similar to the north face of Matterhorn. The difficulties get deeper by
thin air and very strong winds. Delicate passes and exposed rocks with vertical halls of
ice that only offer security at good weather. It is necessary a lot of patience to face
it. But, besides all these difficulties, Magic Line has a unique beautyness. It's a
challenge transformed into a dream for many climbers as myself.
Q.) What are the primary differences between climbing in the
Karakoram and Khumbu areas of the Himalayas? For example, are the rocks better for
placing fixed anchors? Are the views better? Is the snow the same
consistency? Which do you like better and why?
A.) The main difference is not geographic or technical, but cultural
as you have differences between Nepal & Tibet's culture and Pakistan's culture. But if
you are talking about the mountains, in my opinion, Karakorum is much more beautiful than
Khumbu, more impressive and wild. Mountains are vertically impressive, with innumerous
towers. It's a paradise for climbers in search of a great adventure, far from the
mountains crowded with commercial expeditions. The "black rock" (that's the
meaning of the word Karakorum) is real weak but the white ones are more consistent and
offer the same difficulties of Khumbu rocks. The same happens to the glaciers, although
those one can be more dangerous as long as Karakorum walls are more inclined than the
Khumbu ones.
Q.) Do you think every expedition should have a satellite
phone? Even though they are expensive, prices have gone down significantly in recent
years. Should it be required for emergency purposes?
A.) After using the satellite phone I could understand how much he
is important for our safetyness and all expeditions should take it. A request of help
would take days to arrive until the nearest city by a porter, which can be done in a few
minutes without problems of comprehension. Besides that, it's a pleasure to be able to
speak with your family and friends being so distant.
Q.) How do you finance your climbing career? Other than your
main sponsorship from O Botocario, do you have any other forms of income?
A.) My projects are all sponsored, and I thank God for it. I earn
money with my books and videos and mainly with the lectures I make to business companies.
In these lectures I do analogies between my climbs and the routine days of the executives,
that now face an each more competitive market, with more exigent clients. In these
lectures I reinforce subjects as Strategical Planning, Risks Managements, Team Spirit,
Leadership, Decisions Making etc.
Q.) How would you recommend aspiring mountaineers get started
climbing?
A.) The best way to start climbing is with friends that already have
experience or through an alpine club with good mountain guides that usually provide good
courses. Don't try to learn climbing alone, just after going into a climbing shop and
buying a lot of equipment without even knowing how to use them properly. It can be really
dangerous.
Q.) What is next ?
A.) First I intend to finish climbing K2. After I would like to
climb some other 8,000 peaks as Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Annapurna and Nanga Parbat. I don't
have the intention of doing yet all the fourteen 8,000 peaks. I would like very much to
climb in New Zealand and one day go back to climb in Antartida.
Many Thanks to guta nascimento, for her assistance !!!
Check www.risk.ru
for a update from the Russian Lhotse Shar expedition !
Daily News: 10/21/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We understand only
Carlos
Pitarch Francisco of the Spanish Everest Expedition (as reported to you on 10/16)
and Kaji Sherpa has reached the Summit of Everest this Autumn. We
understand the other climbers including the Sherpa from Asian-Trekking turned back and
that Carlos Pitarch Francisco went to the Summit by himself. Weather
conditions we believe were "good" below Camp 4, but very windy above 8,300
meters. Therefore, only Carlos and Kaji Sherpa risked it all. The Japanese and Sherpa
expeditions have returned to Kathmandu. We will try to learn more about Carlos
Summit very dangerous climb to the Summit !
No News on the Japanese Expedition climbing from South West Face.
The staff here at EverestNews.com has worked extremely hard the last few
weeks finding the News. The Staff has pressed hard for calls and reports while working
extremely long hours. The EverestNews.com this Autumn has been very difficult to obtain. We
thank you for your support and know that the reports have been a little "rough"
the last few days. Thank You for your understanding !
Several requests has been received for Sandy Hill Pittman's web site,
and other former web sites of the week, these sites can be found on the web site of the
week table below in the News Index.
On Thursday EverestNews.com will bring you the second part of the
Waldemar Niclevicz interview ! Waldemar is the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year. The first part of his interview is on the 9/16/98. We will soon
place the entire interview on a link in the News Index. The questions were from the
readers of EverestNews.com !
Many interviews to follow including Mark Pfetzer !
Daily News: 10/20/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We received the following from
Asian-Trekking early this morning.
(a) The Japanese Team failed to make it to the summit. The team turned around due to
bad weather and returned to Kathmandu.
(b) The Spanish Team successfully made it to the summit on 15th October.
(c) Kaji Sherpa successfully made it to the summit on 17th October with a record of
finishing his climb in 20 hours 24 minutes.
So we still don't know if any others climbers besides Kaji and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco of the Spanish Everest Expedition reached the Summit of Everest
this Autumn. Also still waiting for information on the Japanese Expedition climbing from
South West Face. Very limited communications this Autumn.
A friend of our pointed out that Ken Noguchi in "only"
making it to 8300 meters, was a FANTASTIC accomplishment considering:
-his age,
-the weather is poor enough to cancel ALL North Side Everest Expeditions,
-he made it higher than all but five mountains on earth
-this is October, not May when conditions are much different!
Sometimes we think people forget that climbing is a very difficult sport. Our perspectives
are blown out of proportion by the amount of luck people have taking advantage of a short
window in May. Everest is extremely difficult to Summit in the Autumn. Very good point we
thought we should share with You.
We understand from another reader of EverestNews.com
that Vic Saunders
has reports from Sepu Kangri. Bonington (web site of the
week) has sent in reports to his website, but Saunders' are much livelier
(the latest dispatch reports that they've given up, the mountain is still unclimbed).
http://www.scotland.net/sepu_kangri/reports/index.htm
As those who follow EverestNews.com knows, we offer few Editorial
Comments. We are the News, but there is a time and place for everything. EverestNews.com
has
received several requests for information on the deaths of Fran and Sergi on Everest in
the Spring of 1998. The best information today, is on the www.risk.ru site. Many questions remain. We are
working on several of those questions. We do not have the answers today. We have spend
thousands of hours on this story. Risk has spend thousands of hours on this story. Yes,
the truth is out there. EverestNews.com and risk are committed to bring you that truth.
However, the truth takes time. We will not rush a story out. This story is very complex.
This is the most complex story we have been involved with ever, far more complex than
Everest 96. EverestNews.com has explained this story to Everest climbers in order to get
their help with this story. It took days for most to understand it ! All the facts are not
in at this time. Some climbers still will not talk. We hope we can get those facts. It is
going to take more time.
When the facts are in, we will report them to you the best we can.
However, this forum nor EverestNews.com might not be the best place to tell this whole story
due to it's very complex nature. That is yet to be determined. But the News will be
reported here.
On why other published stories have not corrected the story we do not
know. EverestNews.com has discussed this story with some, most tell us that they have doubts
about their first stories printed, but we have not seen correction to those stories. We
suggest you ask them on their activities.
Again, the www.risk.ru
site has spend thousands of hours on their story. Read it, understand it, compare it to
those stories initially reported, and to the stories others have reported. Hopefully, the
other questions will be answered by the first of the year. With time the truth will come.
We are close. But then we have been close before. We must get it right !
EverestNews.com
Daily News: 10/19/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: A friend of ours in Nepal tells us that
Marc Batard is currently in the Everest region on a trek. Our friend is planning an
interview with Marc and Kaji Sherpa. Our friend's interview will be posted on
EverestNews.com. Our source tell us that Kaji left BC at 16:00 on Friday and reached the Summit at
12:24pm Saturday, only 5 minutes faster than Marc Batard earlier climb. No other
news from Everest, yet.
Coming Soon EverestNews.com interview with Heather Macdonald.
Heather is a guide with IMG. We are interviewing her about Cho Oyu, and Himalayan climbing
in general, since she has been there many times (2x Everest, 3x Cho Oyu, 1x xixpangma, 1x
Pakistan). She also has agreed to take follow up questions from YOU ! Our
readers of EverestNews.com after the first set of EverestNews.com questions are posted.
Also a climber, who was part of the highly successful 1992
Russian-American K2 expedition, has agreed to an interview with You our readers of
EverestNews.com !!! He reached 8100m (26,500') to establish a new Camp 4, and had to retreat due to
weather. At that time, no American had yet ascended the Abruzzi ridge. More on than
interview soon. But be reviewing your 92 K2 questions !
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We understand that Kaji Sherpa and his
expedition found very high winds while reaching the Summit of Everest on the 17th. If is
still unclear at this time who else if anyone has reached the summit this fall except
Carlos
Pitarch Francisco of the Spanish Everest Expedition. We don't expect confirmation
on the others until tonight or on Monday, now.
We hope also to hear soon about the Japanese attempt on the South
West Face of Everest !
The South Side Climbers list:
Japanese climbing from South West Face.
Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High
Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base
Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter,
and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi
Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering
Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi
Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).
Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo
(Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang
Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported
by Asian-Trekking.
The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98 featuring Kaji Sherpa (33),
who as we reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest
this Autumn, will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering
Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa.
Our web site of the week is:
http://www.t3.rim.or.jp/~kfuruno/everest/nu-ev95-e.html.
This web site has been on the EverestNews.com links page from the beginning, but we point it
out for several reasons. First the site is one of the staff's favorite web sites. It is
also our friend's Kiyoshi Furuno site. The site details Kiyoshi Furuno's and his team
reaching the summit on this expedition in 95 by the North East ridge. Kiyoshi Furuno has
been a great help to EverestNews.com. He is a great climber and a great Everest historian. If
you have not seen the site, we encourage you to check it out. If you have seen the site,
you know it is worth bookmarking !
Daily News: 10/17/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Kaji Sherpa, of The Tuborg
Speed Everest Expedition 98, has reached the Summit of Everest
(his fifth time) and has returned to BC. We understand he reached the Summit on the very
early afternoon hours of the 17th and returned to BC. We understand he broke the
South Side record formerly held by a French climber (Marc Batard). However, he
did not reach 16 hour mark which was his goal. We understand his time was a little over 20
hours. We believe other members other his expedition also reached the Summit
but we do not have those details at this time.
We have not received the detailed update from Nepal, however, we
expect to have more on Monday.
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We have unconfirmed News that
Carlos
Pitarch Francisco of the Spanish Everest Expedition has reached the top of the world !!!!!
Few details are coming in, however we should have our full report
tonight from Nepal.
More News on: The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98 featuring Kaji
Sherpa (33), who as we reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on
climbing Everest this Autumn, will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa
climbers: Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa. We
understand Kaji and the expedition left BC a little after 4pm Nepal today ! For
the record he must return to BC within 18 hours.
Daily News: 10/16/98 Report 9:00 AM EST US
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: As we speculated on Thursday the
Japanese found a way to get word out. However, we still have the Japanese attempt on the
South West Face, which if successful will go into the history books. Also, the news
received below (NEWSFLASH) did not indicate if others turned around. We still expect to
hear news form Nepal on the 17th. More News: Kaji Sherpa, 4 time Everest summitter will go
for the Summit tonight (in just a few hours) to attempt his 18 hours Summit record. It
would appear that he should have the climb much easier than the first group, that had to
break trail and fix ropes. Kaji is assisted by four Sherpa (Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Tashi
Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa) in his record attempt.
Once again we have no information that anyone but Ken Noguchi and his
cameraman turned around. We are waiting to receive the news on the condition of the
Spanish Team and the 11 Sherpa climbers from Asian-Trekking.
Others News is being held until after these attempts are over.
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Ken Noguchi expedition did not summit.
He only reached 8300m on 15th. Source: Kiyoshi Furuno
This is all we have at this time.
Daily News: 10/15/98 Report 8:41AM EST US
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: OK, we finally understand what
the status is on the South Side of Everest. The Climbers (Japanese and Spanish, see names
below) were to go for the Summit late last night (the 14th in Nepal), and are expected to
reach the Summit Today (the 15th) in Nepal. The snow is expected to be deep and heavy. No
other team has fixed the any ropes above Camp 4 or broken any trail, so these climbers and
Sherpa will have a very long hard climb breaking trail and fixing rope all the way by
themselves. However with that said, there are 11 Sherpa from Asian-Trekking working
together including 6 times summitter Dawa Teshi Sherpa plus the seven climbers (5 Spanish
and 2 Japanese). Let's all hope for the best !
The reason why communication is "limited" is
because all satellite communication at Base Camp is down, which explains many things
including why the Japanese is not updating their web site (it is in Japanese). To
communicate the teams need to send a climber (or messager) down to Lobuche to send a
message. We expect to hear from the climbers on the 17th (Nepal Time). However, this
is Everest and news of Summits and deaths have a way of leaking out so we will see
if the news comes sooner. So look for NEWSFLASHES from our friends in Japan.
Availability: This title usually ships within 24 hours.
Hardcover - 224 pages 1 Ed edition (October 1998)
Mountaineers Books; ISBN: 0898865840 ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.83 x 9.34 x 6.23
Book Description
Peeling back the layers to reveal the gritty truth about the elite climbing world is Greg
Child's specialty. With clever wit, sharp observations, and insightful reflections Child's
writing covers the full spectrum of the mountaineering experience.
Entertaining even to those who have never been above sea level,
Child's stories tell of the disgusting daily habits of expedition members; a display of
contrasting styles during a climb with Lynn Hill in Kyrgystan; controversies surrounding
Tomo Cesen's alleged first ascent of Lhotse's south wall and Lydia Bradey's solo ascent of
Everest; and early climbing days in Yosemite and Australia that helped build his career.
Daily News: 10/14/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: The Japanese and Spanish
Everest climbers are going for the Summit tonight !!! The weather is reported good. Second
report received a few minutes ago says the climbers will go for the Summit on the 15th.
Both reports says the teams will go together, which would be expected, due to the strong
presence of Asian-Trekking on these expeditions.
Japanese
Everest Climbers: Ken Noguchi and Noriyuki Muraguchi, his camera man. Along
with them the High Altitude Sherpas: Dawa Teshi Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter),
Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, and Krishna Bahadur
Tamang.
Spanish Everest Climbers: Juan Corro Tormo (Expedition Leader),
Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and Carlos Pitarch
Francisco. Along with them High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Nurbu
Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa, and Dorje Sherpa.
All Sherpa from Asian-Trekking !!! You can bet these expeditions
will be working together !
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We received reports from Nepal and
Japan ! The reports tell us that there is no news from the climbers ! They are high on the
mountain, and as you know communication on the South Side this Autumn is very limited.
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: Our sources in Nepal confirm ALL
climbers are off Everest and back in Kathmandu.
Per your requests, EverestNews.com has added a Gear page to the
Discussion Forum.
We have received several questions on K2 Summits in 1992. Follows is
the climbers who reached the summit and the date they reached the summit: Valdimir
Balyberdin, Russian 8/1/92; Gennady Kopieka, Ukrainian, 8/1/92; Chantal Mauduit, French,
8/3/92; Aleksei Nikiforov, 8/3/92; Ed Viesturs, American, 8/16/92; Scott Fischer,
American, 8/16/92; and Charley Mace, American. 8/16/92, all by the traditional Abruzzi
Spur. We assume Charley took the picture of Ed and Scott. What you might not know is
(besides Charley's Summit): a.) This International team that was very successful was led
by the great Russian climber Valdimir Bayberdin. b.) There was one death on K2 in 1992.
Adrian Benitez, a Mexican climber who died rappelling above Camp 3 in August. c.)
That Chantal Mauduit reached the Summit 13 days ahead of Ed and Scott.
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Still no further word on the Summit
attempts !
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition
1998 (www.skiingeverest.com) is reporting Video footage from the
Expedition should be on the site soon.
Web site of the week is: The American Alpine Club
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/index.htm
Per your requests, EverestNews.com will soon add a Gear page to the
Discussion Forum.
Several have asked about John Krakauer's List of Books available, and
new additions: Note prices are for today and subject to change. Many new additions !
Jon Krakauer / Hardcover / Published 1998
(Not Yet Published -- On Order)
Note this Illustrated Edition is not yet available, we will
let you know when it is available.
Daily News: 10/11/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: All we know at this time is that
climbers are high on Everest. We have not received word on the further status. We expect
to receive news late today or tonight. The South Side climber list is below. Summit
attempts are in extremely dangerous conditions, with clear (Everest) weather but high
winds reported. Let all hope for the Best ! We will bring you the News as soon as we
receive it.
South Side:
Japanese climbing from South West Face.
Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High
Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base
Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter,
and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi
Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering
Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi
Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).
Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo
(Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang
Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported
by Asian-Trekking.
The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98 featuring Kaji Sherpa (33),
who as we reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest
this Autumn, will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering
Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa.
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Summit attempts are expected ! Very
dangerous conditions. Look for NEWSFLASHS.
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: Is over ! The ProViva Everest Ski
Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com) is reporting everybody leaving the North Side
according to Craig. No Summits, no deaths or serious accidents.
We heard from Everest 98 climber Swee Chiow, who reached the Summit
of Everest this year as part of the Singapore Expedition to Everest, on Wednesday. He
tells us he has been very busy planning the next expedition - Antarctica, and time for
family.
He and his family just came back from a 2 weeks trip to Iran. "The Iranian Everest
guys hosted us around. Very kind of them. We climbed Damavand & Sabalan - Beautiful
volcanoes. Did some sightseeing too - ancient mosques and ruins. Fantastic."
On David Lim, "David has been transferred to a rehabilitation hospital. He's on his
way to recovery - a very slow process. But his attitude is very positive which helps a
lot. " Swee Chiow
Makalu: Our Nepal sources tell us there are four expeditions on
Makalu: Two Japanese, one Korean, and one Polish-American-French (Asian-Trekking, see
10/8/98 report.). Our sources have no significant news on status on climbers.
Daily News: 10/9/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: We have climbers going back up the
mountain. We are expecting climbers to go for the Summit on Saturday night. However, some
could decide tonight, we think unlikely, but possible. Let's hope the weather holds.
Very dangerous conditions on Everest this Autumn !
Special Report on the International Mountain
Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu. Cho Oyu: For all
the reports see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
Dispatch 9: 10/9/98
The Cho Oyu Team is now back in Kathmandu, after a rugged trip
out. Expedition Leader Bob Sloezen reports that there was heavy snowfall during and
after their last summit bids, and that the team saw a lot of evidence of avalanche
activity on the upper mountain. While it did clear up a bit this past week, the
higher winds seem to be moving around a lot of snow, building slabs. Marginal
conditions !
All of the 3 guides and 7 clients are in good shape and are getting
ready to head home, with the exception of Bob Sloezen, climbing machine, who will stay in
Nepal for another month to attempt Kusum Kangru.
The non-guided climber, Keitaro, is heading to Switzerland, to visit
Alex's family and report personally on the accident that claimed his partner's life.
Bob Sloezen sheds a little bit more information on what happened to the non-guided
team: According to Bob, Alex "did everything right" , and was doing fine
after making their summit climb (they started at Camp 3, 24,500', early in the morning,
using O2) . Alex, Keitaro, and Norbu made it back to Camp 2 (23,000'+) before dark,
and Norbu and Keitaro were in one tent (with the stove) and Alex the other. They had
sufficient oxygen left over from their summit climb to use for sleeping on a low flow
during the night. Keitaro and Norbu were melting water for Alex, which eliminates
the possibility that CO poisoning from the stove was the cause of death. In the
morning Alex was dead. It remains a mystery.
Welcome to the the Reality of climbing to high altitude. No
matter how smart, careful, and safe you try to be, the Reaper is right behind you !
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
We are half way through Within Reach : My
Everest Story. It is a must read for the armchair climber who want to know more on
how "all of this works". The books leads us through Mark's start in climbing,
which we think many will find interesting. The book is not a book to make money out of
Everest 96. But does add to what we know, and yes to the questions.
Daily News: 10/8/98 Report
Yesterday, was one of those days at EverestNews.com
where our heads were
spinning with information coming in, requests for information from our readers, and then
our staff trying to find the answers for You.
On Makalu, we received several requests for the status on various
climbs with many worried that no reports have been coming out and they are worried about
rumors of trouble. As you know we are not covering Makalu. We therefore sent several
e-mails to our sources requesting information. EverestNews.com received the following reply
from our contact with Asian-Trekking:[ Yes, we have an expedition to Makalu. It is
called the "International Polish Makalu Expedition". The members taking
part in this expedition are from Poland, United States and France. The expedition is
currently in the mountain. Since we have had no communication with this expedition,
we can not make any comments on the reported "rumors of trouble". The team is
expected to return to Kathmandu on 19th October. We are sending a helicopter to
Makalu Base Camp on 19th October to bring them back. ] Source: Asian-Trekking. No other
sources responded to requests for information on Makalu. EverestNews.com has no knowledge of
any climbers in trouble, however, as you can see we have no current status information
either.
On Everest Asian-Trekking replied: Thank you for the copy of the
North Side Update from Craig. The American Television Team returned to Kathmandu
from the Base Camp yesterday. According to the information we have received from the
television team, the Italian climber Simon Moro is still climbing
in the mountain. All the other members of the rest of the teams are at the
Advance Base Camp. They have requested for yaks. The yaks will arrive at the
Base Camp on 9th October. We still do not know who ordered the yaks, so we can not
tell you who plans to remain in the mountain and who intends to return. Any way, we
know that a number of members plan to return on 10th October. At the moment,
the
weather is reported to have improved.
We will try to answer other questions today or on Friday update !
With the number of questions forgive us that we cannot always answer each question
individually.
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
(www.skiingeverest.com) is reporting they are calling off the expedition. No surprise.
EverestNews.com has sent word to our contacts in Nepal on whether the other teams will
continue on the North Side. For the latest information we received today on the South Side
see below.
Daily News: 10/7/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Our sources in Nepal report that:
1.) Spanish + Japanese Teams Summit attempts delayed, in what appear
like a very good call, based on the high wind reports from the North Side.
2.) We have received a confirmed report that the Spanish + Japanese
Teams established camp III at 7,300 m on 26th September. Following the improvement on the
weather, Sherpas (Asian-Trekking) went back heading to Camp 2 and 3 on 4th October.
Our sources tell us that the teams will make their final attempt to the summit somewhere
around 10, 11 or 12 October.
3.) The Sherpa Speed Team (Kaji Sherpa) has not yet started the
climb as has been reported. He is currently moving up/down in/around the Base Camp for
acclimatization. He will probably begin his actual climb in a few days.
No News on the Japanese Expedition (South West Face) since they
established Camp III at (+/-) 7,000 m.
Several have asked about John Krakauer's List of Books available, and
new additions: Note prices are for today and subject to change. Many new additions !
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
(www.skiingeverest.com) has reported clear weather but high winds. Our South Side sources
report good (clear) weather today ! We have that feeling that Wednesday might be the day
for the South Side climbers !!! But it will be an extremely dangerous attempt if they
decide to attempt Everest. Still very odd that the Japanese are not sending reports out.
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
(www.skiingeverest.com ) has reported clear weather on Sunday. Our South Side sources
report bad weather on Sunday. Everest ! Unstable, probably summaries the weather.
As reported yesterday, the Japanese + Spanish Expedition Teams
(Normal Route) established Camp III at (+/-) 7,000 m on 26th September. They then
established Camp IV at 8,000 m on (+/-) 30th September. They plan to make an attempt
to the Summit sometime between October 5th and 10th. Our sources believe summit
attempts will occur !
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
(www.skiingeverest.com ) reports seem to indicate attempts will not occur by Craig
unless major changes occur. However, we think others might continue, i.e. Italians and
some sherpa. For individuals climbers status on Everest see the index below.
Daily News: 10/4/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side : Finally !!!!
Japanese + Spanish Expedition Teams (Normal Route) established Camp
III at (+/-) 7,000 m on 26th September. They then established Camp IV at 8,000 m on
(+/-) 30th September. They plan to make an attempt to the Summit sometime between
October 5th and 10th. The weather condition is reported to have improved.
Japanese Expedition (South West Face) has established Camp III at
(+/-) 7,000 m.
Obviously, teams decided the conditions were not right to continue
the summit attempt. Interesting note that these teams appear to have spend a very
long time at Camp 3 and above. Both of these teams supported by
Asian-Trekking. We should also keep in mind there are only 3 teams on the normal route
(South Side) this Spring which means these teams have to do all the work vs the Spring
season with numerous teams. No News on The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98 featuring
Kaji Sherpa (all Sherpa Team), and whether or not this team is helping at all. We have no
reports on them so far. The Sherpa on The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98 are not
working for nor supported by Asian-Trekking.
Daily News: 10/3/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Why have the Japanese not filed a
report since 9/21/98 ? Why are the Sherpa not talking ? Is something up on Everest ?
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The snow continues at ABC ... Things
are beginning to look unlikely for a North Side summit unless it is a few Sherpa and
possibly the Italians.
EverestNews.com
feature book is : Within Reach : My
Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin
/ Hardcover / Published 1998
Daily News: 10/2/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Still no reports or updates from the
South Side teams !!!
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The snow continues at ABC ... The
ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com ) has reported significant
technical problems.
Look for NEWSFLASHS during the next 24 to 48 hours.
Cho Oyu: The OTT Cho Oyu Expedition and The Natour Cho Oyu
Expeditions has successfully made it to the summit, but unclear of what climbers on their
teams.
Autumn Everest 98: No reports or updates from the South Side teams !
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com)
has reported significant technical problems. We read the report as live feed will not be
possible but video will be posted on the web. Heavy snow fall, will it break ? It is
October 1 !
Look for NEWSFLASHS during the next 24 to 48 hours.
EverestNews.com
feature book is : Within Reach : My
Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin
/ Hardcover / Published 1998
