|
Pakistan
2001 General News
|
K2
20001 Expeditions and News; Broad
Peak 2001 Expedition List;
Nanga Parbat 2001 Expeditions;
Gasherbrum I and GII Expeditions and News; General
Pakistan News Page; The
Master list of Expeditions in Pakistan in
2001.
Update
10/1/2001: Pakistan's announced cancellation of South Asian
Games.
Tour
Operators in Pakistan are asking to Government of
Pakistan for compensation against the loss of their business
due to new development in and around Pakistan.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
9/27/2001: Mohammmad Ammar Malik and Faheem Jehanzaib of
Lahore, Pakistan climbed and made it to the summit of the
6200 meter high Minglig Sar peak in the Pamirs (shimshal pass)
on 5th of September 2001.
Mohammad
Ammar Malik
Update
9/25/2001: On coming Thursday Government of Pakistan is
organizing a "Unity Day" in support of Pakistan
decision to join America against terrorism. There will be big rallies
and meeting all around the country.
Watch
different news channels or login to www.ptvnews.com.pk
or www.ptv.com.pk
if you are interested to know what the common Pakistan thinks
and are they really support government decision ?
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update:
9/24/2001: We believe the last of the expeditions were leaving
yesterday. We are not mentioning names just in case.
Update
9/22/2001: Editorial
Comment:
Any climbers left in Pakistan are urged to leave ASAP.
The Tour
companies (as they are called in Pakistan) that
EverestNews.com has contact with, have done a great job from what
we can determine, in getting climbers out in the last days
here. The climbing season will begin again next spring, when
things are expected to be OK.
We are also
told, "This is to inform you that most of the diplomat
families and their children are gone back to there countries.
Only the male staff and important dips and here in Pakistan."
"In the
daily life things are normal, there are small demonstration
against government decision for supporting America but the
majority of the people of Pakistan are with the government. So
there is no apparent threat to foreigner and tourists at all
still there are many tourists in Pakistan."
From the
Staff of EverestNews.com, we will like a say a big THANK
YOU to
the Tour Operators, for handling this situation in a calm,
effective, professional, and quick manner.
Update
9/16/2001: Concern for climbers in Pakistan
Some families
are getting real concerned for their loved ones
climbing/trekking in Pakistan. Many want them to come
home. One Pakistan guide said today, "relatives
are calling in for their safe quick return. So
far things are pretty quiet
and we
hope leaders use their wit in the best possible way in
making decisions in this most unfortunate hour."
We can only
hope too.
The Staff at
EverestNews.com
Update
9/6/2001: A three members advance team from Singapore
led by Mr. Ang Wah Lai Chairman, National Trade
Union
Congress Club and accompanied by Mr. Yusof Lateef and
Mr. Andrew Tan Poh Leng is here in Pakistan to explore
the Baltoro region. NTUC club has more then 300,000
members. A 21 members team 12 Female will visit
Pakistan next year from 30 August to Baltoro region
under the logo UNION QUEST 2002. Other then exploring
the area the team has plan to do some social work i.g.,
donate furniture for local school and medicine for the
local hospital. They also bring gifts for porters. For
further information visit the club website
at www.ntucclub.com
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
9/4/2001: Japan Polish Latok I expedition left home
unsuccessfully after find the weather unfriendly.
Yasushi Yamanoi led the three person expedition
includes his wife Taiko Yamanoi and Wojcieck Kurtyka.
It was bad weather and we decided to climb a smaller
peak in Hushey valley Biacherahi Tower near K7 area.
On Biacherahi Tower we climb central pillar and made a
new route. Mr. Yasuhi has four 8000 meters peak to his
name including K2, whereas Taiko Yamanoi also has four
8000 meters peak to her name. Wojcieck Kurtyka has
five 8000 meters peaks to his name.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
9/3/2001: A 15 members German Hauser Mustagh Ata
expedition led by Heinrich Gruber return to Islamabad
successfully after putting 7 of their members on top
on August 20 and 17. The members reach the
top are Rudolf Brugger, Angela Hampel, Axel
Michalik, Edmund Spoden, Werner Vogel, Erwin Witzany
and Heinrich Gruber.
Four members
Norwegians Latok I expedition return back
unsuccessfully due to bad weather and snow storm. Their
plan to make first Norwegians ascent on the peak
failed. The expedition was led by Halvor Hagen. The
other members were Trem Salane, Saaen Greavson and Ole
Haltevik.
Italian
Tortona Spantik expedition led by Gino Dellacasa
return unsuccessfully. The team members were Francesco
Galanzino, Andrea Sanguineti, Corrado Ferrando,
Stelvio Ganzone, Francesco Galanzino and Maurizion
Grassi. The expedition is planning to return to GII
next year.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
9/1/2001: German Dav Mustagh Ata (in China) led by
Austrian Axel Bierbaum successful return to Islamabad
(Pakistan) after putting five of their members on top
out of ten. Karl Ludwig, Gert Luettkopf, Dr. Sigune
Barsch Gollnaue, Martin mohnke and Axel Bierbaum are
the summiter. First two made the summit by using snow
shoes the other use ski up and down while making their
summit bit on August 20 and 21.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/30/2001: A six members (Bas Henzing, Bart
Hersmus, Fedor Broekhoven, Wouter Dorigo and Martijn)
Dutch expedition led by Coenraad Doeser for Kapura
Peak 6544 meters in Hushey Valley came back unsuccessfully
due to bad weather and fresh snow. Kapura Peak though
small in height but difficult as it offer grade 5 with
angle of 60 to 65 degrees between 5200m to 5900 m.
Hushey valley is unique for its small mountains mix of
rock and ice and offer best climbing opportunity
for small peak expedition the mountains range
from 5000 meters to 6000 meters. The best known is
Amin Brakk (Great Tower), Minga Peak, Piccaro Peak and
Kapura peak. All peaks are very easy approachable
about 2 to 3 days walk from last village.
We have learned
through very reliable sources that Government of
Pakistan is offering big discount on peak royalty
and other facilities for year 2002 (International
year of Mountain). Stay tune with EverestNews.com
for latest information.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/28/2001: Jagged Globe Spantik expedition is back in
town after unsuccessful attempt on Spantik. The team
was led by Mr. David Hamilton who earlier in the
season climbed GII. The 14 members international team
stayed at 4300 meters on August 18, but the bad
weather changed their mind and made them turn down. Six
of them decided to go over Haramosh Pass to Haramosh
Village on the other side, it is a hard pass and
the expedition used fixed rope to cross the pass. In
fact this is the first party who did Haramosh
pass this year.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/27/2001: Seven members Italian Trichmir expedition
return to Islamabad after their leader Mauro Penasa
reach the summit solo on August 12 at 2:00 pm. Other
members could not succeed. The expedition climbed by
the Czech route from the North West side. This was
their first experience in Hindu Kush in fact the first
one in Pakistan.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/23/2001: Base jump dream bring them back
Six members
Australian Great Trango Tower 6257m expedition is back
again under the skipper Glenn Singleman. In their last attempt
in June a strong storm kept them away to do so, but
two of team members David Vass and Adam Darragh
manage to climb the peak on June 13., now the are back
to climb North Face and planning to jump from the
North East Face. Glenn who did 100 base camps,
keep the record of base camp from Trango Tower 5900m.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/22/2001: A six members South African Spantik Peak
7027m led by Dr. Joe Tyrell is here in town before
they departure for Arandu Valley to attempt Spantik
Peak. The other members are Dr. Ian Woods, Dr.
Guillaume Dutoit, Michael Strong and Karl Harberl.
Spantik peak
consider to be easy among 7000m peaks. Offer less
objective hazards and little difficult section of 45
degrees or more between camp 2 and 3. The expedition
is planning to make summit in early September.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/21/2001: International
year of Mountains 2002
Calendar of
Events
MONTH
VENUE
EVENT
| January |
Islamabad
Convention Center / Malam Jabba and Naltar ski resort |
i.
Opening ceremony will be arranged to officially announce
the beginning of the celebrations.
ii.
Skiing competition in collaboration with Pakistan Air
Force.
|
| February |
Passu
glacier, Hunza |
National
Ice climbing competition to be organized by Alpine Club
of Pakistan. |
| March |
Rawalpindi,
Quetta, Sibi, gulistan Zhob, Quetta - Ziarat |
i.
Familarization tour of Balochistan by train connecting
from Rawalpindi.
ii.
Sibi Horse & Cattle Show to be linked up with the
familarization trip.
iii.
Train Safari (narrow gauge) between Gulistan and Zhob.
iv.
Rock climbing competition in Quetta. Ziarat and
adjoining areas.
|
| April |
Azad
Jammu & Kashmir / Gilgit / Skardu / Hunza |
i.
All activities will be under taken in Azad Jammu and
Kashmir / Northern Areas. A familarization trip of
children and families of Pakistanis living abroad is
proposed in collaboration /assistance with Overseas
Pakistani Foundation.
ii.
Trekking programme for expatriates. |
| May |
Kalash
Valley / Skardu |
i.
Kalash Festival from 13th to 15th May 2002.
ii.
International mountaineering conference to be staged at
Skardu, invitng all the international mountaineering who
have scaled any of the highest peaks in Pakistan. The
theme of this conference as sugested is The
Preservation of Mountain Environments.
|
| June |
Northern
Areas |
i.
Pakistan - China joint expedition to K2 8611
meters
ii.
Pakistan China expedition for ladies at Hunza.
iii.
International expedition to K2 and Nanga Parbat
iv.
Kalam Festival on Mountains (25 days)
|
| July |
Skardu
and Northern Areas |
i.
An international mountain adventure competition
including a three day triathlon race will be organized
by Alpine Club of Pakistan to include trekking, Rock
climbing and mountain biking.
ii.
Rock climbing competition in Skardu city among the
youth/students of Skardu and the adjoining areas.
iii.
Shandur Polo Festival.
iv.
Conference in Chitral on Mountain tourism.
v.
Phandar Trout Fishing Competition.
|
| August |
Baloro
Glacier, Gilgit, Swat, and NWFP |
i.
Cleaning-up operation at Nanga Parbat base camp and
Baltoro glacier.
ii.
Rock climbing competition.
iii.
Swat Handicrafts Festival.
iv.
Four Passes jeep safaris (Malakan, Lawari, Shandur &
Babusar and also Khyber Pass)
v.
Silk Route Festival. |
| September |
Karakoram
Highway
Chitral
/ Kalash
|
i.
International Karakoram Car Rally.
ii.
Celebration of World Tourism Day
iii.
Kalash Festival in Chitral (2 days)
|
| October |
KKH
(60 km)
Chitral
Gilgit
|
i.
Two days adventure Marathon to be organized by Adventure
Foundation to include mountain bikes, rafting, climbing
and trekking.
ii.
A training workshop to be organized to discuss and sort
out the issues relating to porters, high altitude
porters, mountain and trekking guides.
iii.
Jashan-e-Azadi Festival
iv.
Familarization trips for tour operators, writers,
photographers, artists from all over the World and
withing the country. |
| November |
Sindh
Punjab and Islamabad |
i.
Regional rock climbing competition.
ii.
Ballon meeting with mountain theme.
|
| December |
KKH
Swat
|
i.
Regional rock climbing and trekking competition on KKH
to be organized by Adventure Foundation.
ii.
Closing / Award giving ceremoney.
|
Source:
Meeting of Task Force Committee on 9th August 2001 regarding
International Year of Moutains 2002.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/11/2001:
French summits
Trichmir peak in Hindu Kush Range on July 1st at
1:00 pm. Jean Pierre Franchon led the nine member
team.
The Khyber
Steam Train History
Pakistan
Railways is going to invite tender from the tourism
promoters from all over the country to run Khyber
Steam Safari on historical Khyber Pass up to
Landikotal Junction in Khyber Agency, only 18
kilometer away from Pak-Afghan border at Torkham.
The need of
laying the railway track on historical Khyber Pass
was felt, when the former British Raj faced
difficulties in the subjugation of Afghanistan
during the first and 2nd Afghan Wars. The plan was
actually prepared in 1880, but the construction was
abandoned after spending a lot of money. In view of
the defense requirements and importance of the
track, the work started again.
It was finally
completed in 1923 by British Engineer Victor
Baley at a cost of 210 million rupees, which was
inaugurated on November 21 1925. The track is a monument
of modern scientific age. Jamrud, Shahgai,
Landikotal and Landikhana are the main stations of
the railway line. The rail track runs beside the
winding road and pass through a series of 34 tunnels
(total length of the tunnels is 4.8 kilometers). Traveling
through Steam Safari from Peshawar Cantonment
Railway Station to the Landikotal is very
fascinating as it all pass through the runway of
Peshawar of International Airport, the only railway
track of the world which pass through such sensitive
building. Moreover, the railway line extended from
Peshawar to Landikotal is wonderful feat of
engineering which has 92 bridges and culverts and 28
tunnels till Landikotal as track from Landikotal to
Landikhana the bordering town at Pak-Afghan border
has abandoned since the independence of Pakistan.
The junction
which are situated in the middle of the historical
Khyber Pass are Jamrud, Madanak, Shagai, Ali Masjid
while traveling by train the visitor can see the
Jamrud Fort, which was built by General Hari Singh
Nalwa, who occupied Peshawar in 1833 and reach
Jamrud in 1836. He wanted to attack Afghanistan but
a Mullagori tribesman killed him at the western gate
of the fort. The height of Jamrud is about 1540
feet.
The Shagai Fort
was built in 1928-29 by the Indian Artillery Sappers
and Miners and is situated about 8 miles from Jamrud
and commands the approaches from Tirah. Its height
is about 3000 feet. The third important junction is
situated at Ali Masjid , which remains one of the
second Afghan war and the famous battle of Ali
Masjid, fought in 1878.
The visitors
can also see a dome in ruins crowing a small hill
feature immediately on the right of the track, which
was once a Buddhist Stupa, which rises on its North
East Corner to about 25 feet and still shows marks
of images of Buddha and his attendants. The stupa
was built between 310-232 B.C. during the reign of
King Asoka.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/3/2001: Italian Trichmir Peak 7708 meters expedition
led by Mr. Mauro Penasa is here in Islamabad making
their final arrangement before they set-off for
Chitral Valley to attempt the peak. The seven members
team will attempt the peak via Czech Route from the
North West side. The members are Giuseppe Bertolini,
Massimo Giuliberti, Andrea Mantero.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/2/2001: Polish Diran Peak 7266 meters return
back unsuccessfully. A three members Polish
team return back, they made three attempt on Diran
but avalanche and fresh snow made them change
their mind. The expedition leader Gregory
Murawicz and two other members Jarek Dutkiewicz and
Pawel Novak said that they will return again
in 2002 for either Passu Sar or Musztagh Tower.
For further information visit their site at www.diran-expedition.prv.pl
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
8/1/2001: David Hamilton guiding for Jagged Globe
leave for Spantik 7027 meters. David Hamilton after
having a successful expedition on GII this year leave
for another expedition to Spantik Peak. This time he
has 14 members in his team around the World. Dave
Hancock from Australia looking forward to make
documentaries. Other members of the expedition are
John D Hollinger UK, Robyn C Carlyle UK, Clive J
Carlyle Australia, Kiran Asthana UK, John A Botham UK,
Peter N Dale UK, Jefferson M Dundey Australia, Ran
Dall M Sheen Australia, Neil Barwick UK, Peter R
Finder UK, and David K Richardson Australia.
Update
7/30/2001: Japanese fail on Trango: The three members
Japanese team return to Pindi after unsuccessful
attempt on Trango 6239 meters. We ourselves are
responsible for not making the summit, said Shogo
Kada, my team was weak. Though we managed to reach
5100 meters ... We decided to come down.
Up coming POLO
matches
A number
of Polo matches are being arranged in Northern Areas
during the Karakoram Car Rally.
This was
stated by Behram Shahzada chairman of the Karakoram
Polo Development and Youth Welfare Organization.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/27/2001: A three members Japan Latok-I 7145
meters led by Mr. Yamanoi Yasushi is here in Pindi to
proceed further to Skardu.
Blind Dolphins
in the Indus River. World Wide Fund for Nature has
released its survey report on the Indus Dolphin. The
survey was conducted in April 2001. It show that in a
period of seven years the Dolphin population has
increased by 315. In 1993 there were 650 Dolphins
whereas in 2001 there were 965 Dolphins in the Indus.
The WWF survey team was headed by Jill Broolek of WWF
Lahore, Pakistan.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/24/2001: Hello EverestNews.com, I didn't forgot:
there was no news about "Silvo Karo
Expedition" - the satellite telephone was
"broke down". The Expedition is already in
Slovenia. They failed: after 2 days of night climbing
arrange ABC base camp (5250 m), spend all fix rope,
success was without it impossible - they could climb
just by nights and then came back to ABC camp. There
was also very variable, unstable weather condition.
Continuation was to risky - they turned down. That's
all. Best Wishes, Marko Rencelj
Update
7/20/2001: The six members Slovenia Ogre Expedition
led by Silvo Karo is on their way back to Skardu from
the base camp. The expedition after spending a month
at the base camp tried continuously to make the summit
but could not succeeded. The members of the
expedition are: Mr. Silvo Karo, Mr. Peter Meznar, Mr.
Tomaz Jamnik, Mr. Tomaz Jakofcic, Mr. Damijan Mesko,
and Mr. Urban Azman. Source: Essar Karim
Update
7/17/2001: International Car Rally 2001 will be held
from Punjab to Khunjerab Pass at 4000 meters (boarder
with China) in September. The rally is being organized
by Pakistan Tourism Development Organization and it
will take 7 days to reach its destination. A number of
cultural shows, musical program will also be held
besides hospitality from the local PTDC offices. As
many as 100 participants will be allowed to compete.
There is two categories private and sponsored the
private category will deposit Rupee 25,000/= as entry
fee and sponsored participants will be charged Rupee
100,000/= August 20 is the last date for receiving
entries.
Asghar
Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/15/2001: A six member expedition from USA and Russia
has already left for Masherbrum (7821m) under
leadership of Mr. Lev Ioffe from Russia. The same
expedition was successful on Spantik 7,027 meters. The
Masherbrum Peak is thought to be a very difficult peak
and it attracts very few climbers. The peak was
attempted by James Waller and his party in 1938 from
the Hushe and Shyok Valleys and set up camp V at 6858
meters. The peak was climb for the time in 1960 by an
American-Pak expedition led by George Bell. The other members
of the USA/Russia Masherbrum Expedition are Ms. Elena
Lebedeva Russia, Mr. Dmitry Freitor Russia, Mr. Igor
Khalatian America, Mr. Dmitry Berezin America, Ms.
Irina Agarkova Russia. With Wishing them Good Luck for
their expedition. Essar Karim
Update
7/12/2001: American Biantha Brakk (Ogre) expedition
led by Hans Johnstone return back home unsuccessful.
[Page down for earlier reports on Hans and Orge.]
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/9/2001:
BRAZIL Conquers TRANGO TOWER
A
six-climber team, led by Waldemar Niclevicz, first Brazilian
that has climbed Everest and K2, has conquered Trango Tower,
the tallest granite tower in the world.
On
Jun 30th, after 29 days of expedition, facing storms
and avalanches in the mountains in North of Pakistan,
the Brazilian flag trembles on the hands of Waldemar
Niclevicz, Marcelo Santos and Irivan Gustavo Burda on
the heights of 6,251 m of altitude of Trango Tower,
the worlds
tallest granite tower .
The tallest vertical rock tower in the world ,
with 1 thousand and 500 m high, practically 5 times
higher than Pγo de Aηϊcar
in Rio de Janeiro, was conquered by
just 72 climbers. The Brazilian finished their
invincibility for the Latin Americans after 6 endless
days hang on the space, taking advantage of the good
weather, after 11 consecutive days in Karakorum, the
same mountains chain where K2 is located,
in the west part of Himalayas.
Sponsored by TIM, O Boticαrio, TAM, and Net
Virtua, the climbers team led by Waldemar Niclevicz,
formed by Alexandre Portela and Sιrgio Tartari from
Rio de Janeiro, and Josι Luiz Hartmann, Marcelo
Santos and Irivan Gustavo Burda from Paranα arrived
in Pakistan in the beginning of June and started to
face the weather instability. Constant rains, lack of
visibility, rocks avalanches and snow prevented the
Brazilian team
from progression
and they were limited to shelter in the tents of the
base-camp, situated at 4 thousand meters of altitude.
But, on Jun 24th, the barometer indicated a
significant increase in the atmospheric
pressure and the Brazilians attacked
Trango Towers
vertical wall definitively. The strong
climbing rhythm brought serious consequences
for all team. Alexandre Portela and Sιrgio Tartari,
two of the best rock climbers in Brazil, felt strong
headaches, dizziness and vomiting, symptoms of the
mountains sickness provoked by the rarefied
air. Josι Luiz Hartmann suffered from cold, has got a strong throat inflammation, with no
conditions to go on.
Facing
a mix of anxiety and excitation, being afraid of the
weather turn bad again, but seeing days of exceptional
beauty, Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burda and
Waldemar Niclevicz, having set a camping at 5,500m of
altitude, on the heights of a big platform called
Shoulder got higher every day. Breathing just
50% of the existent oxygen at the sea level,
overcoming an amazing verticality, on Jun 29th they
set a camp at 5,900 m of altitude, nothing more than a
hanging stretcher in the emptiness, where the three
climbers spent the
night very tight, at 1,200 m from the base climbing.
On
the night of Jun 30th they restart the climb and faced
the worst moments of the expedition. Each time higher,
they suffered constant attacks of ice
that detached
from the glacier in a mushrooms way, Irivan hang on a
piece of old rope that he found on the way, but it
didnt support his weight. A 5 -meter fall frightened the group that
redoubled the care.
At
6,100 m of altitude, Niclevicz faced a great snow
spot, 60 degrees inclination,
sinking in the unstable mass up to the waist,
but he could pull the beginning of the rope again to
the rock wall.
In
the beginning of the last 29 parts of the climb on
Trango Towers Southeast Pillar, in the called
Sloven route, the summit appeared 20 m over the
Brazilians and it seemed
intangible, a granite needle pronounced against
the sky, embraced on the right by a giant ice mass.
Marcelo Santos was gaining altitude step by step,
taking the rope point, squeezing under the rock
negative space and the glacier white mass.
Unexpectedly the climbing
shoes slipped
on the wet rock, Marcelo
precipitated in the emptiness beating against
the glacier that broke immediately provoking an
avalanche. Fortunately, the movable protections
previously canned in the slot, supported the fall. Courage didnt lack and Marcelo
did a new lunge successfully. Soon after, Waldemar
Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda joined and
so they could put together the Green and Yellow Brazilian
flag on the heights of 6,251m of altitude of Trango
Tower, 16h 50 on Jun 30th 2001: Brazil turned the
first country in Latin America to conquer the tallest
granite tower in the world.
photo: Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burad and
Waldemar Niclevicz, on the heights of 6,251 meters of
Trango Tower, the worlds tallest granite tower.
More
details about the Brazilian conquest of Trango Tower
at www.niclevicz.com.br
Update
7/4/2001: Waldemar's wins again on Trango: Brazilian
Waldemar Niclevicz and his team successfully climb the
Trango Tower on June 30 at 4:50 pm, they became the
first Latin American to make the summit on Trango.
Further detail can be watch at www.niclevicz.com.br
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
7/3/2001: Hans Kammerlander's unsuccessful attempt on
Ogro South Face.
Hanes
Kammerlander's guide Mr. Riyaz and Hans' companion on
Ogro are back in the Islamabad City and had their
debriefing. Their stay at the base camp was about 21
days. As Lois Brugger Hans' companion at Ogre said it
was impossible to climb the peak. He added that the
weather was not favorable for all that our stay. They
could manage only up to 6200 meters, establishing camp
one at 4800 meters only. Because of shortage of time
Hans moved to K-2 directly from Askole and will now
attempt on K-2, this will be his 3rd attempt on the
world's second highest peak. Hans is member of Focus
International K-2 expedition led by Peter Guggemos
from Germany. On his last attempt he had been up to
shoulders but came back berceuse of heavy snowfall at
the peak. The Ogre Expeditions was a part of his
acclimatization plan. Hans is pursuing his dream for
peak and has a strong third time, he has a strong
feeling that ski descent from K-2 is possible and he
wants to do it solo. Hans has scaled several
eight thousand meter peaks. Hans has made a number of
extreme skiing records and most of notable one is
skiing down from the Summit of Everest from the North.
Hans'
expedition had reached base camp on 4th June and the
next day he had established camp one, but since then
the weather was not favorable so he has to cancel his
expedition on Ogre and move to K-2. The Ogre has
attracted about 4 expeditions in 2001. At the Ogre
Peak there are about 2 more expeditions from Germany
and America on South Face. And one from Slovenia is on
North Face.
The
Germans are there up to 15th August. And Americans
have a short time. The German leader Thomas Robber had
given chance to Americans because of their short time.
He said, I have enough time so you should move. Both
have managed up to camp one. Source: Essar Karim
Update
7/2/2001: Waldemar Niclevicz, leader of Focus
Brazilian Trango Tower Expedition made the Summit at
16h50m, 30 June. Waldemar Niclevicz along with his
partners will be back to Skardu on 7th or 8th July and
will fly back to Islamabad as soon as possible. The
seven men expedition was included, Waldemar Niclevicz
leader, Irivan Gustavo Burda, Dalio Zippin Neto,
Marcelo Santos, Jose Luiz Hartmann, Alexander De
Carvalho and Sergio Luiz Tartari. The total climbers
who made the summit are Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo
Burda and Waldemar Niclevicz. The other members of the
expedition were not feeling well because high
altitude. More details will be sent soon
Waldemar
Niclevicz was on K-2 last year and reached the summit
after a three years continuous struggle. This is his
fourth visit to Pakistan. As Waldemar Niclevicz says
"Once more, we are very happy, after a great
experience in the Karakorum mountains". We
reached the Trango Tower summit at 16h50m, 30 June,
Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burda and me. The
others were feeling bad because high altitude symptoms".
Best Regards Essar Karim
Update
7/1/2001: Success on Minglig Sar 6200 meters. Hasil
Shah a Pakistani from Shimshal village boarder with
China and Simon Sanders made the summit of Mingling
Sar.
Success
on Trango Tower. Dr Glenn was the leader of the
expedition. They are going to up date news about their
expedition at www.baseclimb.com
in two weeks time. Other members are David Vass and
the film team was Adam Darragh, Mark Baker and Michael
Dillon. Glenn has 100 base jumps to his credit.
Kazakh
GI and GII expedition leave for Skardu. Twelve member
Kazakh team including two Russians and one Georgian
will make their first Kazakh ascent on GII and second
ascent on GI. Ervand Llinskiy is the leader of the
expedition. Boris Sedousossov from Russia credit four
8000 meters peak. Serguey Bogomolov has six 8000
meters peak in his credit. Denis Urubko has two 8000
meters peak in his credit. The other members are
Alexy Raspopov , Maxut Zhumayev, Danir Molgachev,
Vassiliy Pivtsov, Vassiliy Litvinov, Sergey Lavrov,
Alexy Senin.
First Polish
expedition has left Pindi for Nagar Valley to attempt
Diran Peak. This is first ever Polish attempt on Diran
Peak. The expedition
leader is Gregory Murawicz and other members are Jarek
Dutkiewics and Pawel Novak. The expedition website is www.diran-expedition.prv.pl
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/30/2001: A two member expedition from Poland to Amin
Brakk is in Islamabad. The expedition is led by
Krzysztof Belczynski will be departing to Skardu
tomorrow. The other member of expedition is Mr. Marcin
Tomaszewski. The both members are young and energetic
but they don't have much experience, since Amin Brakk
is a technical rock climb but they say their
expedition will be successful. They will be at the
Base Camp about 25 to 30 days. If they could climb
earlier they will be back, if they could not then they
will stay at the base camp and try their luck.
Amin Brakk a
1200m wall and gigantic block of granite has got
altitude, constant falling of rocks, snow and ice make
a ideal Tower for adventure lover. It is harder than
Trango Tower. Amin Brakk a a5 or more got attraction
of rock climber back in 1997. The Spanish love this
mountain and make several attempt until 1999, they
climbed this virgin Tower and advertise their success
on internet. Since then a huge number of rock lover
come to Pakistan and now-a-days more then five to ten
expedition each year try their skill. Amin Brakk is in
a open area and below 6000 meters, you did not need to
pay government for peak permit, it is so close to the
road. Source: Essar Karim
Update
6/29/2001: Italian Ogre expedition returns: The
expedition is led by Lois Brugger and accompanied by
Hans Kammerlander return to Pindi unsuccessfully. They
had tried to attempt this peak from the Pioneer
Bonington Route. But they could not make it up to 6200
meters. They described the weather as too bad and the
conditions as not good.
Hans
is now his way to K2. Hans is trying this peak for
the third time. He has a strong feeling that ski down
from K2 is possible and he want to do it solo.
Five
members Australian team return from Passu Sar unsuccessfully.
It was not possible to go further than 4200 meters. It
was too dangerous.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/26/2001: Below 6000 meters climbing in Pakistan.
Every year
more and more adventure lovers are turning toward Pakistan
to do small peak climbing. Why because some of them are in
open zone NO permit required, NO peak fee, just pack your
bag and ready for big adventure. These peaks are small
but some of them are harder then Trango or any peak you name
in the World. Some of the prominent names in below 6000 peak
are Great Tower (Amin Brakk), Shipton Spire, Ogre Thom,
Lukpilla Brakk, Lady Finger and dozens of peak did not have
name.
There are news
about some the expedition attempting these kind of peaks two
of the news follow;
Austrian Cats
Ears Spire Expedition led by Toni Neudorfer and two
other members are Herbert Kobler and Norbert Reizelsdorfer.
It is a 800-1000 meters vertical spire, 200-300 meters thin
blade on the top, neighboring to Shipton Spire in a
restricted zone, one only need a trekking permit. They are
planning to spend 15-20 days for climbing.
Basque Spansar
Brakk expedition led by Ingio Mutiloa. A four member team is
also planning to climb a small peak below 6000 meters near
K7. They are planning to climb freely for a route of
about 1000 meters on the South West Pillar. The team is here
in Pakistan first time. The other members are Gerardo
Tellextxea, Alberto Deblas, and Jose Mutiloa. This peak also
need a trekking permit only
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/25/2001: Hans Johnstone, the American Ogre (Biantha
Brakk) expedition leader, is now back in base camp
again.
Update
6/23/2001: News from Ogre 7285 meters (Biantha Brakk)
base camp...
There
is a cat fight [sounds just like a minor negotiation]
between the American Biantha Brakk Expedition, led by
Hans Johnstone and the German Ogre Expedition, led by
Thomas Huber. The argument started on who will climb
first. Both the expeditions are basically
attempting the same route
but the American reached the base camp one week before
the Germans. To avoid any conflict Hans Kammerlander
(Italian) who is also climbing Ogre acted as
a mediator. Finally both climbers agreed that the
American will climb first and German will go after
them.
Then Hans
Johnstone was evacuated by helicopter due to an allergy
problem. His face start's swelling, after a few days of rest
in Skardu he will join again the expedition.
This daunting
peak has a special place in mountaineering history. Doug Scott
and Chris Bonington are the only two climbers to have reached
the Summit in a climb where they almost died. Thomas Huber
attempted the mountain in 1999 with his brother Alex. Hans
Kammerlander is attempting to repeat the Scott/Bonington
route. This is serious rock climbing.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/21/2001: British Great Trango Tower expedition led
by Mr. Mike Turner leaves for Skardu. The strong 4 member
strong team of all professional guides will attempt
Great Trango from North East Face. This is Mike's
third visit to Pakistan. He has been to Pakistan and successfully
climbed below 6000 meters rock spires in open zone,
named Beatrice East Face and Nawaz Brakk North East
Face. There are dozens of rock spires in North, one
can climb without permit. Some of them are harder than
Trango such as Amin Brakk or Great Tower.
The
expedition will find a new route close to Norwegian
Pillar from the Dungee Glacier. The other members are
Louise Thomas, Steve Long, Steve Mayers. They
expedition has a website: www.sheertrango.co.uk.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/16/2001: Japanese Trango Tower expedition: A three
members Japanese Trango Tower expedition will attempt
a new route from the East Face. 25 year old Yoshie
Hattori will try to be the first woman on the summit
of Trango Tower. Mr. Shogo Kada is leading the
expedition. The third member is Hiromasa Ogawa.
This is only one of several Trango
Tower expeditions this year.
Update
6/13/2001: The Chief Executive of Pakistan promises to
give important attention in development on North Areas
development (roads, etc.). He was addressing the
concluding ceremony of the three day festival in
Shandur. The Chief Executive said, the country has
great potential for tourism and the government wants
to utilize it by opening Northern Areas to the
tourists by developing infrastructure. This would lead
to more tourism job opportunities for the local
population.
He
announced that Gilgit - Chitral road would be
black-topped within two years. He further said Gilgit
- Kaghan road and Gilgit - Astore road would also be
constructed and the Kaghan - Astore road later would be
extended to Skardu.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/10/2001: A five members
Australian Passu Sar Peak 7478 meters (virgin) North
East Face expedition led by Mr. Damien Gildea
leave for Gilgit. As the peak has no climbing record,
it is considered to be virgin. As per Pakistani
mountaineering law one can name any virgin peak after
climbing it. This is a great attraction for people who
want to climb unclimbed peaks in Pakistan. Last year a
French expedition led by Mr. Nicolas Sieger climbed a
unnamed peak in Shimshal area and named it La Rochelle
Peak.
[Damien Gildea is a long time reader
of EverestNews.com. We expect to hear from him a few
times on his journey.]
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
6/7/2001: Waldemar Niclevicz is back
again! This time he is leading a Brazilian Trango
Tower expedition. Trango Tower is the hardest rock
mountain and offers a great challenging route, They
are planning to take Enternal Flame, it 1200 meters
wall which offers difficult climbing. The other
climbers are Alexandre Portela, Sergio Tartari, Irivan
Burda, Marcelo Santos, Jose Hartmann. The thirty five
year old Waldemar Summitted K2 last year. One can read
more about them at www.niclevicz.com.br
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
For
those who have been with us the last 4 years, you know
we have covered Waldemar all three years on K2 !
Update
6/1/2001: Shandur Polo Festival
Polo
on the roof of the World will be held from 8 to 11
June at Shandur at an altitude of 4000 meters. Polo in
Northern areas played in a very barbaric fashion and
every thing is allowed once the ball starts rolling.
There are about 7 members in each team, at Shandur
normally Gilgit and Chitral team meet each other. The
locals as well as foreigner visit from all over the
World to witness this beautiful event happens once in
a year. The top level Pakistan official will
witness this event. In past Banazir Bhoto, Nawaz
Sharif and Gen. Perviaz Musharraf honor this event.
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
5/30/2001:
News conference by the Federal Minister of Tourism:
The
government of Pakistan has set the target to earn 800
million dollars by the year 2005 from the tourism
sector. Pakistan earned 385 million dollars last
year. In 1999 400,000 tourists visited Pakistan and in
2000 this number increased to 550,000. There is
possibility that 34 taxes the hospitality sectors pays
will be reduced to six or seven. A motorcycle rally
and an international car rally would be staged. The
car rally being held in late September from
Lahore to Sust with China Boarder and will be
participated by 100 cars.
World Tourism Conference on June
21-28 in Karimabad Hunza Valley. The
aim of this conference is to promote Mountaineering
and tourism potential in Pakistan. This
conference will be attended by 120 tour operators
around the world. Chief Executive Gen. Pervez
Musharraf and Secretary General World Tourism
Organization WTO are likely to grace the event.
Regards,
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
Update
5/30/2001:
The following
expeditions has arrived in Pakistan and already leave
Pindi to their base camps.
Serial
# 1. Japan Meiji University Gasherbrum I and II
expedition led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahasi
Serial
# 14. German Amical Alpine Nanga Parbat expedition led
by Mr. Ralf Dujmovits.
Serial
# 19. USA K7 expedition led by Mr. James K. Chin
Serial
# 30. USA Link Sar Expedition led by Mr. Steve Swenson
Serial
#35. Italy Focus International Nanga Parbat expedition
led by Mr. Christian Kuntner
Serial
# 40. USA Ogre Expedition led by Mr. Silvo Karo.
Serial
# 57. Pak - China Friendship Broad Peak
expedition led by Mr. Sangzhu.
Pak -
China Friendship Broad Peak Expedition led by Mr.
Sangzhu from Tibet Mountaineering Association is here
in Pindi to set off for Skardu in few days. A team of
Alpine Club of Pakistan is joining this expedition.
Serial
# 65. Australian Single man Trango Tower Expedition
led by Glen Bernard
A
single man expedition to Trango Tower leave
Rawalpindi. He is a Australian man ( Glen Bernard) His
plans are to jump from the Trango Tower after
climbing.
Serial
# 55. Americna Biantha Brakk expedition led by Mr.
Hans Johnstone.
A
Three member team led by Mr. Hans Johnstone, American
Biantha Brakk (Ogre) Expedition 2001 leave Rawalpindi
on 26 for Skardu and onward to Biantha Brakk. The will
attempt the normal route. Mark Newcomb and Michael
Fredrick a famous photographer are the members.
Until
now 71 expedition got permit from Tourism office for
climbing different peaks in Pakistan. Repeat news:
Government of Pakistan is giving 30 days visa to
tourist on arrival at all entries points in Pakistan.
Heli
Rescue Policy for Expedition: All the
mountaineering expeditions either has to deposit US
6000 dollars with Askari Aviation or can bring
insurance papers for heli rescue for their members or
ask their embassy to give a guarantee for 6000 US for
heli rescue if they needed. Most of the embassy in
Pakistan does not give such services. This is an
option bond. If the expedition did not want heli rescue
service, they simply say NO and go without heli rescue
facility to their respected mountain.
A one
day tourism conference will be help in Karimabad Hunza
in late June. This will be organize by Pakistan
Tourism Development Cooperation.
Keep
in touch for Mountain year 2002 Big News: United
Nation with the help of member nations is organizing
Year 2002 as a Mountain Year. All the member nation
are organizing conferences, especial events, discount,
to attract tourists and benefit local mountain
population. There will be more news in coming
months.
Regards,
Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333 http://www.jasminetours.com
A
mountaineering expedition from USA consisting of six
(06) members led by Mr. Steve Swenson has arrived in
Pakistan to attempt the Link Sar 7041m Peak. After
the completion of necessary formalities the team is
proceeding to Link Sar Peak on May 18, 2001 for
attempting the peak.
Mountain
Wilderness Italy is organizing a guide / porters /
Sidar training
course in Chitral to promote the Chitral region among
mountaineering and trekking. Details are as follows;
Course
for mountain guides in Chitral being organised by
Mountain Wilderness, Rome.
We
have planned the following subjects to be taught
during the theoretical part of the Course, both in
Chitral Town and at Base Camp: - Introduction to the
Course (Maqsood ul Mulk and C.A. Pinelli)
- History of Local Cultural Heritage (Dr. Inayatullah
Faizi)
- History of Mountaineering in the Hindu Kush (Col.
Manzoor Hussain)
- Elements of High Altitude and Tropical Medicine (Dr:
Nick Mason)
- First Aid (Dr. N: Mason and Dr. Javid Sherazee)
- Geography and Geology of the Hindu Kush (Afzel
Sherazee)
- Organization of environment-friendly expeditions
(Ashraf Aman)
- Glaciers, snow, avalanches (C.A. Pinelli and Nasir
Awan)
- Equipment and material (Carlo Barbolini and Afzel
Sherazee)
- Mountain Wildlife (a IUCN expert)
- Forest cover, deforestation, flora (a IUCN expert)
- Psycology of foreign mountaineers and trekkers.
Hygiene and food habits of Europeans. The most
interesting hiking itineraries of Chitral.
- In Chitral Town the Course will take place at the
Mountain Inn Hotel.
The mountaineering instructors (rock, ice, snow,
rescue operations) are:
Carlo
BARBOLINI (Central Mountaineering School of the
Italian
Alpine Club and member of the Italian Academic Alpine
Club - CAAI)
- Francesco
CAPPELLARI (Central Mountaineering School of CAI and
member of CAAI)
Giorgio GREGORIO (National Mountaineering Instructor)
Claudio ROSSI (National Mountaineering Instructor and
member of CAAI
Marco SCHENONE (member of CAAI).
Isobel
Shaw is also participanting on the request of Mountain
Wilderness Italy.
For
more information contact: Regards, Asghar Ali Porik
JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com
A
mountaineering expedition from JAPAN consisting of
seven (07) members led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahashi has
arrived in Pakistan to attempt the Gasherbrum I and
Gasherbrum II Peaks.
After
the completion of necessary formalities the team is
proceeding to GI and GII on May 18, 2001 for
attempting the peak.
Regards,
Asghar
Ali Porik
JASMINE
TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333
A
mountaineering expedition from JAPAN consisting of
seven (07) members led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahashi has
arrived in Pakistan to attempt the Gasherbrum I and
Gasherbrum II Peaks.
After
the completion of necessary formalities the team is
proceeding to GI and GII on May 18, 2001 for
attempting the peak.
Regards,
Asghar
Ali Porik
JASMINE
TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333
Update
4/17/2001: In connection with year 2002 United Nation
declared year of Mountain. Union of International
Alpine Association UIAA, Union of Asian Alpine
Association UAAA and Himalayan Nation Alpine
Association meeting was held here in Pakistan from 15
to 16 April, hosted by Alpine Club of Pakistan.
In
the closing session lots of recommendation given to
government of Pakistan. Some are:
50%
discount for peak royalty for year 2002 only.
No
peak fee for peak less then 8000 meters for year 2002
only.
Trekking
height raise from 6000 to 6500 meters.
Allow
alpine club to collect about 30 peaks royalty. and
many more..
If
government approved these recommendation I will let
you know.
Expedition
number increase now they are more then 60 coming this
year to Pakistan. Still many are applying. I will send
you latest list in few days time.
Regards, Asghar Ali Porik
JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com
Updated
3/2/2001: I am
communicating something very sad for us here in Chile.
Our friend and mountaineering companion Sergio Zerate
Saez (Rambo) died this weekend in the San Gabriel's
this weekend. He fell together with a North
American, who he was instructing who died also.
Right now, we are very sad along with everyone at the
Rama de Andinismo and the University of Chile and all
the friends at the ENAM in Chile. A great friend
and mountaineer has died. We don't like sending
such messages but consider it sent.
Carlos
Sanchez P. , Rama de Andinismo Universidad de Santiago
de Chile
Update
3/1/2001: Pakistan Tourism
Development Cooperation PTDC has decided to celebrate
year 2002 as mountain year and coordinating with
neighboring countries in promotion of this year all
over the World.
Regards, Asghar Ali Porik
JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com
Pakistan
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