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 Pakistan 2001 General News

K2 20001 Expeditions and News; Broad Peak 2001 Expedition List; Nanga Parbat 2001 Expeditions; Gasherbrum I and GII Expeditions and News; General Pakistan News Page; The Master list of Expeditions in Pakistan in 2001.

Update 10/1/2001: Pakistan's announced cancellation of South Asian Games.

Tour Operators in Pakistan are asking to Government of Pakistan for compensation against the loss of their business due to new development in and around Pakistan.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 9/27/2001: Mohammmad Ammar Malik and Faheem Jehanzaib of  Lahore, Pakistan climbed and made it to the summit of the 6200 meter high Minglig Sar peak in the Pamirs (shimshal pass) on 5th of September 2001. 

Mohammad Ammar Malik 

Update 9/25/2001: On coming Thursday Government of Pakistan is organizing a "Unity Day" in support of Pakistan decision to join America against terrorism. There will be big rallies and meeting all around the country.

Watch different news channels or login to www.ptvnews.com.pk

or www.ptv.com.pk if you are interested to know what the common Pakistan thinks and are they really support government decision ? 

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update: 9/24/2001: We believe the last of the expeditions were leaving yesterday. We are not mentioning names just in case.

Update 9/22/2001: Editorial Comment: Any climbers left in Pakistan are urged to leave ASAP.

The Tour companies (as they are called in Pakistan) that EverestNews.com has contact with, have done a great job from what we can determine, in getting climbers out in the last days here. The climbing season will begin again next spring, when things are expected to be OK.

We are also told, "This is to inform you that most of the diplomat families and their children are gone back to there countries. Only the male staff and important dips and here in Pakistan."

"In the daily life things are normal, there are small demonstration against government decision for supporting America but the majority of the people of Pakistan are with the government. So there is no apparent threat to foreigner and tourists at all still there are many tourists in Pakistan."

From the Staff of EverestNews.com, we will like a say a big THANK YOU to the Tour Operators, for handling this situation in a calm, effective, professional, and quick manner.

Update 9/16/2001: Concern for climbers in Pakistan

Some families are getting real concerned for their loved ones climbing/trekking in Pakistan. Many want them to come home. One Pakistan guide said today, "relatives are calling in for their safe quick return. So far things are pretty quiet and we hope leaders use their wit in the best possible way in making decisions in this most unfortunate hour."

We can only hope too.

The Staff at EverestNews.com

Update 9/6/2001: A three members advance team from Singapore led by Mr. Ang Wah Lai Chairman, National Trade Union Congress Club and accompanied by Mr. Yusof Lateef and Mr. Andrew Tan Poh Leng is here in Pakistan to explore the Baltoro region. NTUC club has more then 300,000 members. A 21 members team 12 Female will visit Pakistan next year from 30 August to Baltoro region under the logo UNION QUEST 2002. Other then exploring the area the team has plan to do some social work i.g., donate furniture for local school and medicine for the local hospital. They also bring gifts for porters. For further information visit the club website at www.ntucclub.com

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 9/4/2001: Japan Polish Latok I expedition left home unsuccessfully after find the weather unfriendly. Yasushi Yamanoi led the three person expedition includes his wife Taiko Yamanoi and Wojcieck Kurtyka. It was bad weather and we decided to climb a smaller peak in Hushey valley Biacherahi Tower near K7 area. On Biacherahi Tower we climb central pillar and made a new route. Mr. Yasuhi has four 8000 meters peak to his name including K2, whereas Taiko Yamanoi also has four 8000 meters peak to her name. Wojcieck Kurtyka has five 8000 meters peaks to his name.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 9/3/2001: A 15 members German Hauser Mustagh Ata expedition led by Heinrich Gruber return to Islamabad successfully after putting 7 of their members on top on August 20 and 17.  The members reach the top are Rudolf Brugger, Angela Hampel, Axel  Michalik, Edmund Spoden, Werner Vogel, Erwin Witzany and Heinrich Gruber.

Four members Norwegians Latok I expedition return back unsuccessfully due to bad weather and snow storm. Their plan to make first Norwegians ascent on the peak failed. The expedition was led by Halvor Hagen. The other members were Trem Salane, Saaen Greavson and Ole Haltevik.

Italian Tortona Spantik expedition led by Gino Dellacasa return unsuccessfully. The team members were Francesco Galanzino, Andrea Sanguineti, Corrado Ferrando, Stelvio Ganzone, Francesco Galanzino and Maurizion Grassi. The expedition is planning to return to GII next year.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 9/1/2001: German Dav Mustagh Ata (in China) led by Austrian Axel Bierbaum successful return to Islamabad (Pakistan) after putting five of their members on top out of ten. Karl Ludwig, Gert Luettkopf, Dr. Sigune Barsch Gollnaue, Martin mohnke and Axel Bierbaum are the summiter. First two made the summit by using snow shoes the other use ski up and down while making their summit bit on August 20 and 21.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/30/2001: A  six members (Bas Henzing, Bart Hersmus, Fedor Broekhoven, Wouter Dorigo and Martijn) Dutch expedition led by Coenraad Doeser for Kapura Peak 6544 meters in Hushey Valley came back unsuccessfully due to bad weather and fresh snow. Kapura Peak though small in height but difficult as it offer grade 5 with angle of 60 to 65 degrees between 5200m to 5900 m. Hushey valley is unique for its small mountains mix of rock and ice and offer best climbing opportunity for small  peak expedition the mountains range from 5000 meters to 6000 meters. The best known is Amin Brakk (Great Tower), Minga Peak, Piccaro Peak and Kapura peak. All peaks are very easy approachable about 2 to 3 days walk from last village.

We have learned through very reliable sources that Government of Pakistan is offering big discount on peak royalty and other facilities for year 2002 (International year of Mountain). Stay tune with EverestNews.com for latest information.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/28/2001: Jagged Globe Spantik expedition is back in town after unsuccessful attempt on Spantik. The team was led by Mr. David Hamilton who earlier in the season climbed GII. The 14 members international team stayed at 4300 meters on August 18, but the bad weather changed their mind and made them turn down. Six of them decided to go over Haramosh Pass to Haramosh Village on the other side, it is a hard pass and the expedition used fixed rope to cross the pass. In fact this is the first party who did Haramosh pass this year.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/27/2001: Seven members Italian Trichmir expedition return to Islamabad after their leader Mauro Penasa reach the summit solo on August 12 at 2:00 pm. Other members could not succeed. The expedition climbed by the Czech route from the North West side. This was their first experience in Hindu Kush in fact the first one in Pakistan.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/23/2001: Base jump dream bring them back

Six members Australian Great Trango Tower 6257m expedition is back again under the skipper Glenn Singleman. In their last attempt in June a strong storm kept them away to do so, but two of team members David Vass and Adam Darragh manage to climb the peak on June 13., now the are back to climb North Face and planning to jump from the North East Face.  Glenn who did 100 base camps, keep the record of base camp from Trango Tower 5900m.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/22/2001: A six members South African Spantik Peak 7027m led by Dr. Joe Tyrell is here in town before they departure for Arandu Valley to attempt Spantik Peak. The other members are Dr. Ian Woods, Dr. Guillaume Dutoit, Michael Strong and Karl Harberl.

Spantik peak consider to be easy among 7000m peaks. Offer less objective hazards and little difficult section of 45 degrees or more between camp 2 and 3. The expedition is planning to make summit in early September.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/21/2001: International year of Mountains – 2002

Calendar of Events

MONTH                 VENUE                                                                   EVENT

January Islamabad Convention Center / Malam Jabba and Naltar ski resort

i.                     Opening ceremony will be arranged to officially announce the beginning of the celebrations.

ii.                    Skiing competition in collaboration with Pakistan Air Force.

February Passu glacier, Hunza National Ice climbing competition to be organized by Alpine Club of Pakistan.
March Rawalpindi, Quetta, Sibi, gulistan – Zhob, Quetta - Ziarat

i.                     Familarization tour of Balochistan by train connecting from Rawalpindi.

ii.                    Sibi Horse & Cattle Show to be linked up with the familarization trip.

iii.                  Train Safari (narrow gauge) between Gulistan and Zhob.

iv.                  Rock climbing competition in Quetta. Ziarat and adjoining areas.

April Azad Jammu & Kashmir / Gilgit / Skardu / Hunza

i.                     All activities will be under taken in Azad Jammu and Kashmir / Northern Areas. A familarization trip of children and families of Pakistanis living abroad is proposed in collaboration /assistance with Overseas Pakistani Foundation.

ii.                    Trekking programme for expatriates.

May Kalash Valley / Skardu

i.                     Kalash Festival from 13th to 15th May 2002.

ii.                    International mountaineering conference to be staged at Skardu, invitng all the international mountaineering who have scaled any of the highest peaks in Pakistan. The theme of this conference as sugested is “The Preservation of Mountain Environments”.

June Northern Areas

i.                     Pakistan  - China joint expedition to K2 – 8611 meters

ii.                    Pakistan – China expedition for ladies at Hunza.

iii.                  International expedition to K2 and Nanga Parbat

iv.                  Kalam Festival on Mountains (25 days)

July Skardu and Northern Areas

i.                     An international mountain adventure competition including a three day triathlon race will be organized by Alpine Club of Pakistan to include trekking, Rock climbing and mountain biking.

ii.                    Rock climbing competition in Skardu city among the youth/students of Skardu and the adjoining areas.

iii.                  Shandur Polo Festival.

iv.                  Conference in Chitral on Mountain tourism.

v.                   Phandar Trout Fishing Competition.

August Baloro Glacier, Gilgit, Swat, and NWFP

i.                     Cleaning-up operation at Nanga Parbat base camp and Baltoro glacier.

ii.                    Rock climbing competition.

iii.                  Swat Handicrafts Festival.

iv.                  Four Passes jeep safaris (Malakan, Lawari, Shandur & Babusar and also Khyber Pass)

v.                   Silk Route Festival.

September Karakoram Highway

Chitral / Kalash

i.                     International Karakoram Car Rally.

ii.                    Celebration of World Tourism Day

iii.                  Kalash Festival in Chitral (2 days)

October KKH (60 km)

Chitral

Gilgit

i.                     Two days adventure Marathon to be organized by Adventure Foundation to include mountain bikes, rafting, climbing and trekking.

ii.                    A training workshop to be organized to discuss and sort out the issues relating to porters, high altitude porters, mountain and trekking guides.

iii.                  Jashan-e-Azadi Festival

iv.                  Familarization trips for tour operators, writers, photographers, artists from  all over the World and withing the country. 

November Sindh – Punjab and Islamabad

i.                     Regional rock climbing competition.

ii.                    Ballon meeting with mountain theme.

December KKH

Swat

i.                     Regional rock climbing and trekking competition on KKH to be organized by Adventure Foundation.

ii.                    Closing / Award giving ceremoney.

Source: Meeting of Task Force Committee on 9th August 2001 regarding International Year of Moutains 2002.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/11/2001: 

French summits Trichmir peak in Hindu Kush Range on July 1st at 1:00 pm. Jean Pierre Franchon led the nine member team.
 
The Khyber Steam Train History
 
Pakistan Railways is going to invite tender from the tourism promoters from all over the country to run Khyber Steam Safari on historical Khyber Pass up to Landikotal Junction in Khyber Agency, only 18 kilometer away from Pak-Afghan border at Torkham.
 
The need of laying the railway track on historical Khyber Pass was felt, when the former British Raj faced difficulties in the subjugation of Afghanistan during the first and 2nd Afghan Wars. The plan was actually prepared in 1880, but the construction was abandoned after spending a lot of money. In view of the defense requirements and importance of the track, the work started again.
 
It was finally completed in 1923 by British Engineer  Victor Baley at a cost of 210 million rupees, which was inaugurated on November 21 1925. The track is a monument of modern scientific age. Jamrud, Shahgai, Landikotal and Landikhana are the main stations of the railway line. The rail track runs beside the winding road and pass through a series of 34 tunnels (total length of the tunnels is 4.8 kilometers). Traveling through Steam Safari from Peshawar Cantonment Railway Station to the Landikotal is very fascinating as it all pass through the runway of Peshawar of International Airport, the only railway track of the world which pass through such sensitive building. Moreover, the railway line extended from Peshawar to Landikotal is wonderful feat of engineering which has 92 bridges and culverts and 28 tunnels till Landikotal as track from Landikotal to Landikhana the bordering town at Pak-Afghan border has abandoned since the independence of Pakistan.
 
The junction which are situated in the middle of the historical Khyber Pass are Jamrud, Madanak, Shagai, Ali Masjid while traveling by train the visitor can see the Jamrud Fort, which was built by General Hari Singh Nalwa, who occupied Peshawar in 1833 and reach Jamrud in 1836. He wanted to attack Afghanistan but a Mullagori tribesman killed him at the western gate of the fort. The height of Jamrud is about 1540 feet.
 
The Shagai Fort was built in 1928-29 by the Indian Artillery Sappers and Miners and is situated about 8 miles from Jamrud and commands the approaches from Tirah. Its height is about 3000 feet. The third important junction is situated at Ali Masjid , which remains one of the second Afghan war and the famous battle of Ali Masjid, fought in 1878.
 
The visitors can also see a dome in ruins crowing a small hill feature immediately on the right of the track, which was once a Buddhist Stupa, which rises on its North East Corner to about 25 feet and still shows marks of images of Buddha and his attendants. The stupa was built between 310-232 B.C. during the reign of King Asoka.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/3/2001: Italian Trichmir Peak 7708 meters expedition led by Mr. Mauro Penasa is here in Islamabad making their final arrangement before they set-off for Chitral Valley to attempt the peak. The seven members team will attempt the peak via Czech Route from the North West side. The members are Giuseppe Bertolini, Massimo Giuliberti, Andrea Mantero.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/2/2001: Polish Diran Peak 7266 meters return back unsuccessfully. A three members Polish team return back, they made three attempt on Diran but avalanche and fresh snow made them change their mind.  The expedition leader Gregory Murawicz and two other members Jarek Dutkiewicz and Pawel Novak said that they will return again in 2002 for either Passu Sar or Musztagh Tower. For further information visit their site at www.diran-expedition.prv.pl 

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/1/2001: David Hamilton guiding for Jagged Globe leave for Spantik 7027 meters. David Hamilton after having a successful expedition on GII this year leave for another expedition to Spantik Peak. This time he has 14 members in his team around the World. Dave Hancock from Australia looking forward to make documentaries. Other members of the expedition are John D Hollinger UK, Robyn C Carlyle UK, Clive J Carlyle Australia, Kiran Asthana UK, John A Botham UK, Peter N Dale UK, Jefferson M Dundey Australia, Ran Dall M Sheen Australia, Neil Barwick UK, Peter R Finder UK, and David K Richardson Australia.

Update 7/30/2001: Japanese fail on Trango: The three members Japanese team return to Pindi after unsuccessful attempt on Trango 6239 meters. We ourselves are responsible for not making the summit, said Shogo Kada, my team was weak. Though we managed to reach 5100 meters ... We decided to come down.

Up coming POLO matches

A number of Polo matches are being arranged in Northern Areas during the Karakoram Car Rally.

This was stated by Behram Shahzada chairman of the Karakoram Polo Development and Youth Welfare Organization.  

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 7/27/2001: A three members Japan Latok-I  7145 meters led by Mr. Yamanoi Yasushi is here in Pindi to proceed further to Skardu.

Blind Dolphins in the Indus River. World Wide Fund for Nature has released its survey report on the Indus Dolphin. The survey was conducted in April 2001. It show that in a period of seven years the Dolphin population has increased by 315. In 1993 there were 650 Dolphins whereas in 2001 there were 965 Dolphins in the Indus. The WWF survey team was headed by Jill Broolek of WWF Lahore, Pakistan.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 7/24/2001: Hello EverestNews.com, I didn't forgot: there was no news about "Silvo Karo Expedition" - the satellite telephone was "broke down". The Expedition is already in Slovenia. They failed: after 2 days of night climbing arrange ABC base camp (5250 m), spend all fix rope, success was without it impossible - they could climb just by nights and then came back to ABC camp. There was also very variable, unstable weather condition. Continuation was to risky - they turned down. That's all. Best Wishes, Marko Rencelj

Update 7/20/2001: The six members Slovenia Ogre Expedition led by Silvo Karo is on their way back to Skardu from the base camp. The expedition after spending a month at the base camp tried continuously to make the summit but could not succeeded.  The members of the expedition are: Mr. Silvo Karo, Mr. Peter Meznar, Mr. Tomaz Jamnik, Mr. Tomaz Jakofcic, Mr. Damijan Mesko, and Mr. Urban Azman. Source: Essar Karim

Update 7/17/2001: International Car Rally 2001 will be held from Punjab to Khunjerab Pass at 4000 meters (boarder with China) in September. The rally is being organized by Pakistan Tourism Development Organization and it will take 7 days to reach its destination. A number of cultural shows, musical program will also be held besides hospitality from the local PTDC offices. As many as 100 participants will be allowed to compete. There is two categories private and sponsored the private category will deposit Rupee 25,000/= as entry fee and sponsored participants will be charged Rupee 100,000/= August 20 is the last date for receiving entries.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 7/15/2001: A six member expedition from USA and Russia has already left for Masherbrum (7821m) under leadership of Mr. Lev Ioffe from Russia. The same expedition was successful on Spantik 7,027 meters. The Masherbrum Peak is thought to be a very difficult peak and it attracts very few climbers. The peak was attempted by James Waller and his party in 1938 from the Hushe and Shyok Valleys and set up camp V at 6858 meters. The peak was climb for the time in 1960 by an American-Pak expedition led by George Bell. The other members of the USA/Russia Masherbrum Expedition are Ms. Elena Lebedeva Russia, Mr. Dmitry Freitor Russia, Mr. Igor Khalatian America, Mr. Dmitry Berezin America, Ms. Irina Agarkova Russia. With Wishing them Good Luck for their expedition. Essar Karim

Update 7/12/2001: American Biantha Brakk (Ogre) expedition led by Hans Johnstone return back home unsuccessful. [Page down for earlier reports on Hans and Orge.]

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 7/9/2001: BRAZIL Conquers TRANGO TOWER

A six-climber team, led by Waldemar Niclevicz, first Brazilian that has climbed Everest and K2, has conquered Trango Tower, the tallest granite tower in the world.

On Jun 30th, after 29 days of expedition, facing storms and avalanches in the mountains in North of Pakistan, the Brazilian flag trembles on the hands of Waldemar Niclevicz, Marcelo Santos and Irivan Gustavo Burda on the heights of 6,251 m of altitude of Trango Tower,  the world’s  tallest granite tower .

            The tallest vertical rock tower in the world , with 1 thousand and 500 m high, practically 5 times  higher than Pใo de A็๚car   in Rio de Janeiro, was conquered by  just 72 climbers. The Brazilian finished their invincibility for the Latin Americans after 6 endless days hang on the space, taking advantage of the good weather, after 11 consecutive days in Karakorum, the same mountains chain where K2 is located, in the west part of Himalayas.

            Sponsored by TIM, O Boticแrio, TAM, and Net Virtua, the climbers team led by Waldemar Niclevicz, formed by Alexandre Portela and S้rgio Tartari from Rio de Janeiro, and Jos้ Luiz Hartmann, Marcelo Santos and Irivan Gustavo Burda from Paranแ arrived in Pakistan in the beginning of June and started to face the weather instability. Constant rains, lack of visibility, rocks avalanches and snow prevented the Brazilian  team from  progression and they were limited to shelter in the tents of the base-camp, situated at 4 thousand meters of altitude.

            But, on Jun 24th, the barometer indicated a  significant increase in the atmospheric pressure and the Brazilians attacked  Trango Tower’s  vertical wall definitively. The strong climbing rhythm brought serious consequences for all team. Alexandre Portela and S้rgio Tartari, two of the best rock climbers in Brazil, felt strong headaches, dizziness and vomiting, symptoms of the  mountains sickness provoked by the rarefied air. Jos้ Luiz Hartmann suffered from  cold, has got a strong throat inflammation, with no conditions to go on.

Facing a mix of anxiety and excitation, being afraid of the weather turn bad again, but seeing days of exceptional beauty, Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burda and Waldemar Niclevicz, having set a camping at 5,500m of altitude, on the heights of a big platform called “Shoulder” got higher every day. Breathing just 50% of the existent oxygen at the sea level, overcoming an amazing verticality, on Jun 29th they set a camp at 5,900 m of altitude, nothing more than a hanging stretcher in the emptiness, where the three climbers spent  the night very tight, at 1,200 m from the base climbing.

On the night of Jun 30th they restart the climb and faced the worst moments of the expedition. Each time higher, they suffered constant attacks of ice  that  detached from the glacier in a mushrooms way, Irivan hang on a piece of old rope that he found on the way, but it didn’t  support his weight. A 5 -meter fall frightened the group that redoubled the care.

At 6,100 m of altitude, Niclevicz faced a great snow spot, 60 degrees inclination, sinking in the unstable mass up to the waist, but he could pull the beginning of the rope again to the rock wall.

In the beginning of the last 29 parts of the climb on Trango Tower’s Southeast Pillar, in the called Sloven route, the summit appeared 20 m over the Brazilians and it seemed  intangible, a granite needle pronounced against the sky, embraced on the right by a giant ice mass. Marcelo Santos was gaining altitude step by step, taking the rope point, squeezing under the rock negative space and the glacier white mass. Unexpectedly the climbing  shoes slipped  on the wet rock, Marcelo  precipitated in the emptiness beating against the glacier that broke immediately provoking an avalanche. Fortunately, the “movable protections” previously canned in the  slot, supported the fall. Courage didn’t lack and Marcelo did a new lunge successfully. Soon after, Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda joined and  so   they could put together the Green and Yellow Brazilian flag on the heights of 6,251m of altitude of Trango Tower, 16h 50’ on Jun 30th 2001: Brazil turned the first country in Latin America to conquer the tallest granite tower in the world.

photo: Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burad and Waldemar Niclevicz, on the heights of 6,251 meters of Trango Tower, the world’s tallest granite tower.

More details about the Brazilian conquest of Trango Tower at www.niclevicz.com.br

Update 7/4/2001: Waldemar's wins again on Trango: Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz and his team successfully climb the Trango Tower on June 30 at 4:50 pm, they became the first Latin American to make the summit on Trango.  Further detail can be watch at www.niclevicz.com.br

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 7/3/2001: Hans Kammerlander's unsuccessful attempt on Ogro South Face.

Hanes Kammerlander's guide Mr. Riyaz and Hans' companion on Ogro are back in the Islamabad City and had their debriefing. Their stay at the base camp was about 21 days. As Lois Brugger Hans' companion at Ogre said it was impossible to climb the peak. He added that the weather was not favorable for all that our stay. They could manage only up to 6200 meters, establishing camp one at 4800 meters only. Because of shortage of time Hans moved to K-2 directly from Askole and will now attempt on K-2, this will be his 3rd attempt on the world's second highest peak. Hans is member of Focus International K-2 expedition led by Peter Guggemos from Germany. On his last attempt he had been up to shoulders but came back berceuse of heavy snowfall at the peak. The Ogre Expeditions was a part of his acclimatization plan. Hans is pursuing his dream for peak and has a strong third time, he has a strong feeling that ski descent from K-2 is possible and he wants to do it solo.  Hans has scaled several eight thousand meter peaks. Hans has made a number of extreme skiing records and most of notable one is skiing down from the Summit of Everest from the North. 

Hans' expedition had reached base camp on 4th June and the next day he had established camp one, but since then the weather was not favorable so he has to cancel his expedition on Ogre and move to K-2. The Ogre has attracted about 4 expeditions in 2001. At the Ogre Peak there are about 2 more expeditions from Germany and America on South Face. And one from Slovenia is on North Face. 

The Germans are there up to 15th August. And Americans have a short time. The German leader Thomas Robber had given chance to Americans because of their short time. He said, I have enough time so you should move. Both have managed up to camp one. Source: Essar Karim

Update 7/2/2001: Waldemar Niclevicz, leader of Focus Brazilian Trango Tower Expedition made the Summit at 16h50m, 30 June. Waldemar Niclevicz along with his partners will be back to Skardu on 7th or 8th July and will fly back to Islamabad as soon as possible. The seven men expedition was included, Waldemar Niclevicz leader, Irivan Gustavo Burda, Dalio Zippin Neto, Marcelo Santos,  Jose Luiz Hartmann, Alexander De Carvalho and Sergio Luiz Tartari. The total climbers who made the summit are Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burda and Waldemar Niclevicz. The other members of the expedition were not feeling well because high altitude. More details will be sent soon 

Waldemar Niclevicz was on K-2 last year and reached the summit after a three years continuous struggle. This is his fourth visit to Pakistan. As Waldemar Niclevicz says "Once more, we are very happy, after a great experience in the Karakorum mountains". We reached the Trango Tower summit at 16h50m, 30 June, Marcelo Santos, Irivan Gustavo Burda and me. The others were feeling bad because high altitude symptoms". Best Regards Essar Karim

Update 7/1/2001: Success on Minglig Sar 6200 meters. Hasil Shah a Pakistani from Shimshal village boarder with China and Simon Sanders made the summit of Mingling Sar.

Success on Trango Tower. Dr Glenn was the leader of the expedition. They are going to up date news about their expedition at www.baseclimb.com in two weeks time. Other members are David Vass and the film team was Adam Darragh, Mark Baker and Michael Dillon. Glenn has 100 base jumps to his credit. 

Kazakh GI and GII expedition leave for Skardu. Twelve member Kazakh team including two Russians and one Georgian will make their first Kazakh ascent on GII and second ascent on GI. Ervand Llinskiy is the leader of the expedition. Boris Sedousossov from Russia credit four 8000 meters peak. Serguey Bogomolov has six 8000 meters peak in his credit. Denis Urubko has two 8000 meters peak in his credit.  The other members are Alexy Raspopov , Maxut Zhumayev, Danir Molgachev, Vassiliy Pivtsov, Vassiliy Litvinov, Sergey Lavrov, Alexy Senin.

First Polish expedition has left Pindi for Nagar Valley to attempt Diran Peak. This is first ever Polish attempt on Diran Peak. The expedition leader is Gregory Murawicz and other members are Jarek Dutkiewics and Pawel Novak. The expedition website is www.diran-expedition.prv.pl

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/30/2001: A two member expedition from Poland to Amin Brakk is in Islamabad. The expedition is led by Krzysztof Belczynski will be departing to Skardu tomorrow. The other member of expedition is Mr. Marcin Tomaszewski. The both members are young and energetic but they don't have much experience, since Amin Brakk is a technical rock climb but they say their expedition will be successful. They will be at the Base Camp about 25 to 30 days. If they could climb earlier they will be back, if they could not then they will stay at the base camp and try their luck. 

Amin Brakk a 1200m wall and gigantic block of granite has got altitude, constant falling of rocks, snow and ice make a ideal Tower for adventure lover. It is harder than Trango Tower. Amin Brakk a a5 or more got attraction of rock climber back in 1997. The Spanish love this mountain and make several attempt until 1999, they climbed this virgin Tower and advertise their success on internet. Since then a huge number of rock lover come to Pakistan and now-a-days more then five to ten expedition each year try their skill. Amin Brakk is in a open area and below 6000 meters, you did not need to pay government for peak permit, it is so close to the road. Source: Essar Karim

Update 6/29/2001: Italian Ogre expedition returns: The expedition is led by Lois Brugger and accompanied by Hans Kammerlander return to Pindi unsuccessfully. They had tried to attempt this peak from the Pioneer Bonington Route. But they could not make it up to 6200 meters. They described the weather as too bad and the conditions as not good.

Hans is now his way to K2. Hans is trying this peak for the third time. He has a strong feeling that ski down from K2 is possible and he want to do it solo.

Five members Australian team return from Passu Sar unsuccessfully. It was not possible to go further than 4200 meters. It was too dangerous.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/26/2001: Below 6000 meters climbing in Pakistan.

Every year more and more adventure lovers are turning toward Pakistan to do small peak climbing. Why because some of them are in open zone NO permit required, NO peak fee, just pack your bag and ready for big adventure. These peaks are small but some of them are harder then Trango or any peak you name in the World. Some of the prominent names in below 6000 peak are Great Tower (Amin Brakk), Shipton Spire, Ogre Thom, Lukpilla Brakk, Lady Finger and dozens of peak did not have name. 
 
There are news about some the expedition attempting these kind of peaks two of the news follow;
 
Austrian Cats Ears Spire Expedition  led by Toni Neudorfer and two other members are Herbert Kobler and Norbert Reizelsdorfer.  It is a 800-1000 meters vertical spire, 200-300 meters thin blade on the top, neighboring to Shipton Spire in a restricted zone, one only need a trekking permit. They are planning to spend 15-20 days for climbing. 
 
Basque Spansar Brakk expedition led by Ingio Mutiloa. A four member team is also planning to climb a small peak below 6000 meters near K7.  They are planning to climb freely for a route of about 1000 meters on the South West Pillar. The team is here in Pakistan first time. The other members are Gerardo Tellextxea, Alberto Deblas, and Jose Mutiloa. This peak also need a trekking permit only

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/25/2001: Hans Johnstone, the American Ogre (Biantha Brakk) expedition leader, is now back in base camp again.

Update 6/23/2001: News from Ogre 7285 meters (Biantha Brakk) base camp...

There is a cat fight [sounds just like a minor negotiation] between the American Biantha Brakk Expedition, led by Hans Johnstone and the German Ogre Expedition, led by Thomas Huber. The argument started on who will climb first. Both the expeditions are basically attempting  the same route but the American reached the base camp one week before the Germans. To avoid any conflict Hans Kammerlander (Italian) who is also climbing  Ogre acted as a mediator. Finally both climbers agreed that the American will climb first and German will go after them.

Then Hans Johnstone was evacuated by helicopter due to an allergy problem. His face start's swelling, after a few days of rest in Skardu he will join again the expedition.

This daunting peak has a special place in mountaineering history. Doug Scott and Chris Bonington are the only two climbers to have reached the Summit in a climb where they almost died. Thomas Huber attempted the mountain in 1999 with his brother Alex. Hans Kammerlander is attempting to repeat the Scott/Bonington route. This is serious rock climbing.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/21/2001: British Great Trango Tower expedition led by Mr. Mike Turner leaves for Skardu. The strong 4 member strong team of all professional guides will attempt Great Trango from North East Face. This is Mike's third visit to Pakistan. He has been to Pakistan and successfully climbed below 6000 meters rock spires in open zone, named Beatrice East Face and Nawaz Brakk North East Face. There are dozens of rock spires in North, one can climb without permit. Some of them are harder than Trango such as Amin Brakk or Great Tower.

The expedition will find a new route close to Norwegian Pillar from the Dungee Glacier. The other members are Louise Thomas, Steve Long, Steve Mayers. They expedition has a website: www.sheertrango.co.uk.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/16/2001: Japanese Trango Tower expedition: A three members Japanese Trango Tower expedition will attempt a new route from the East Face. 25 year old Yoshie Hattori will try to be the first woman on the summit of Trango Tower. Mr. Shogo Kada is leading the expedition.  The third member is Hiromasa Ogawa. This is only one of several Trango Tower expeditions this year. 

Update 6/13/2001: The Chief Executive of Pakistan promises to give important attention in development on North Areas development (roads, etc.).  He was addressing the concluding ceremony of the three day festival in Shandur. The Chief Executive said, the country has great potential for tourism and the government wants to utilize it by opening Northern Areas to the tourists by developing infrastructure. This would lead to more tourism job opportunities for the local population.

He announced that Gilgit - Chitral road would be black-topped within two years. He further said Gilgit - Kaghan road and Gilgit - Astore road would also be constructed and the Kaghan - Astore road later would be extended to Skardu.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/10/2001: A five members Australian Passu Sar Peak 7478 meters (virgin) North East Face expedition led by Mr. Damien Gildea  leave for Gilgit. As the peak has no climbing record, it is considered to be virgin. As per Pakistani mountaineering law one can name any virgin peak after climbing it. This is a great attraction for people who want to climb unclimbed peaks in Pakistan. Last year a French expedition led by Mr. Nicolas Sieger climbed a unnamed peak in Shimshal area and named it La Rochelle Peak.

[Damien Gildea is a long time reader of EverestNews.com. We expect to hear from him a few times on his journey.]

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 6/7/2001: Waldemar Niclevicz is back again! This time he is leading a Brazilian Trango Tower expedition. Trango Tower is the hardest rock mountain and offers a great challenging route, They are planning to take Enternal Flame, it 1200 meters wall which offers difficult climbing. The other climbers are Alexandre Portela, Sergio Tartari, Irivan Burda, Marcelo Santos, Jose Hartmann. The thirty five year old Waldemar Summitted K2 last year. One can read more about them at www.niclevicz.com.br

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

For those who have been with us the last 4 years, you know we have covered Waldemar all three years on K2 !

Update 6/1/2001: Shandur Polo Festival 

Polo on the roof of the World will be held from 8 to 11 June at Shandur at an altitude of 4000 meters. Polo in Northern areas played in a very barbaric fashion and every thing is allowed once the ball starts rolling. There are about 7 members in each team, at Shandur normally Gilgit and Chitral team meet each other. The locals as well as foreigner visit from all over the World to witness this beautiful event happens once in a year.  The top level Pakistan official will witness this event. In past Banazir Bhoto, Nawaz Sharif and Gen. Perviaz Musharraf honor this event.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 5/30/2001: News conference by the Federal Minister of Tourism:

The government of Pakistan has set the target to earn 800 million dollars by the year 2005 from the tourism sector. Pakistan earned  385 million dollars last year. In 1999 400,000 tourists visited Pakistan and in 2000 this number increased to 550,000. There is possibility that 34 taxes the hospitality sectors pays will be reduced to six or seven. A motorcycle rally and an international car rally would be staged. The car rally being held in late September  from Lahore to Sust with China Boarder and will be participated by 100 cars.

World Tourism Conference on June 21-28 in Karimabad Hunza Valley. The aim of this conference is to promote Mountaineering and tourism potential in Pakistan. This conference will be attended by 120 tour operators around the world. Chief Executive Gen. Pervez Musharraf and Secretary General World Tourism Organization WTO are likely to grace the event.

Regards, Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 5/30/2001: 

The following expeditions has arrived in Pakistan and already leave Pindi to their base camps.

Serial # 1. Japan Meiji University Gasherbrum I and II expedition led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahasi

Serial # 14. German Amical Alpine Nanga Parbat expedition led by Mr. Ralf Dujmovits.

Serial # 19. USA K7 expedition led by Mr. James K. Chin

Serial # 30. USA Link Sar Expedition led by Mr. Steve Swenson

Serial #35. Italy Focus International Nanga Parbat expedition led by Mr. Christian Kuntner

Serial # 40. USA Ogre Expedition led by Mr. Silvo Karo.

Serial # 57.  Pak - China Friendship Broad Peak expedition led by Mr. Sangzhu.

Pak - China Friendship Broad Peak Expedition led by Mr. Sangzhu from Tibet Mountaineering Association is here in Pindi to set off for Skardu in few days. A team of Alpine Club of Pakistan is joining this expedition.

Serial # 65. Australian Single man Trango Tower Expedition led by Glen Bernard

A single man expedition to Trango Tower leave Rawalpindi. He is a Australian man ( Glen Bernard) His plans are to jump from the Trango Tower after climbing.

Serial # 55. Americna Biantha Brakk expedition led by Mr. Hans Johnstone. 

A Three member team led by Mr. Hans Johnstone, American Biantha Brakk (Ogre) Expedition 2001 leave Rawalpindi on 26 for Skardu and onward to Biantha Brakk. The will attempt the normal route. Mark Newcomb and Michael Fredrick a famous photographer are the members.

Until now 71 expedition got permit from Tourism office for climbing different peaks in Pakistan. Repeat news: Government of Pakistan is giving 30 days visa to tourist on arrival at all entries points in Pakistan.

Heli Rescue Policy for Expedition:  All the mountaineering expeditions either has to deposit US 6000 dollars with Askari Aviation or can bring insurance papers for heli rescue for their members or ask their embassy to give a guarantee for 6000 US for heli rescue if they needed. Most of the embassy in Pakistan does not give such services. This is an option bond. If the expedition did not want heli rescue service, they simply say NO and go without heli rescue facility to their respected mountain.

A one day tourism conference will be help in Karimabad Hunza in late June. This will be organize by Pakistan Tourism Development Cooperation.

Keep in touch for Mountain year 2002 Big News:  United Nation with the help of member nations is organizing Year 2002 as a Mountain Year. All the member nation are organizing conferences, especial events, discount, to attract tourists and benefit local mountain population.  There will be more news in coming months.

Regards, Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

A mountaineering expedition from USA consisting of six (06) members led by Mr. Steve Swenson has arrived in Pakistan to attempt the Link Sar 7041m Peak. After the completion of necessary formalities the team is proceeding to Link Sar Peak on May 18, 2001 for attempting the peak. 
 
Regards, Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Mountain Wilderness Italy is organizing a guide / porters / Sidar training
course in Chitral to promote the Chitral region among mountaineering and trekking. Details are as follows;

Course for mountain guides in Chitral being organised by Mountain Wilderness, Rome.

We have planned the following subjects to be taught during the theoretical part of the Course, both in Chitral Town and at Base Camp: - Introduction to the Course (Maqsood ul Mulk and C.A. Pinelli)
- History of Local Cultural Heritage (Dr. Inayatullah Faizi)
- History of Mountaineering in the Hindu Kush (Col. Manzoor Hussain)
- Elements of High Altitude and Tropical Medicine (Dr: Nick Mason)
- First Aid (Dr. N: Mason and Dr. Javid Sherazee)
- Geography and Geology of the Hindu Kush (Afzel Sherazee)
- Organization of environment-friendly expeditions (Ashraf Aman)
- Glaciers, snow, avalanches (C.A. Pinelli and Nasir Awan)
- Equipment and material (Carlo Barbolini and Afzel Sherazee)
- Mountain Wildlife (a IUCN expert)
- Forest cover, deforestation, flora (a IUCN expert)
- Psycology of foreign mountaineers and trekkers.  Hygiene and food habits of Europeans. The most interesting hiking itineraries of Chitral.
- In Chitral Town the Course will take place at the Mountain Inn Hotel.
 The mountaineering instructors (rock, ice, snow, rescue operations) are:
        Carlo BARBOLINI (Central Mountaineering School of the Italian
Alpine Club and member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club - CAAI)
-       Francesco CAPPELLARI (Central Mountaineering School of CAI and member  of CAAI) 

        Giorgio GREGORIO (National Mountaineering Instructor)         Claudio ROSSI (National Mountaineering Instructor and member of CAAI         Marco SCHENONE (member of CAAI). 

Isobel Shaw is also participanting on the request of Mountain Wilderness Italy. 

For more information contact: Regards, Asghar Ali Porik  JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com

A mountaineering expedition from JAPAN consisting of seven (07) members led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahashi has arrived in Pakistan to attempt the Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II Peaks.
 
After the completion of necessary formalities the team is proceeding to GI and GII on May 18, 2001 for attempting the peak.
 
Regards,
Asghar Ali Porik
JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333
 
24-Canning Road, Saddar, Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
Tel: 0092-51-586823 Fax: 0092-51-584566
E-mail: jtours@apollo.net.pk
Website: http://www.jasminetours.com
A mountaineering expedition from JAPAN consisting of seven (07) members led by Mr. Kazuhiro Takahashi has arrived in Pakistan to attempt the Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II Peaks.
 
After the completion of necessary formalities the team is proceeding to GI and GII on May 18, 2001 for attempting the peak.
 
Regards,
Asghar Ali Porik
JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333
 

Update 4/17/2001: In connection with year 2002 United Nation declared year of Mountain. Union of International Alpine Association UIAA, Union of Asian Alpine Association UAAA and Himalayan Nation Alpine Association meeting was held here in Pakistan from 15 to 16 April, hosted by Alpine Club of Pakistan. 

In the closing session lots of recommendation given to government of Pakistan. Some are:

50% discount for peak royalty for year 2002 only. 

No peak fee for peak less then 8000 meters for year 2002 only.

Trekking height raise from 6000 to 6500 meters.

Allow alpine club to collect about 30 peaks royalty. and many more.. 

If government approved these recommendation I will let you know. 

Expedition number increase now they are more then 60 coming this year to Pakistan. Still many are applying. I will send you latest list in few days time. 

Regards, Asghar Ali Porik  JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com

Updated 3/2/2001: I am communicating something very sad for us here in Chile.  Our friend and mountaineering companion Sergio Zerate Saez (Rambo) died this weekend in the San Gabriel's this weekend.  He fell together with a North American, who he was instructing who died also.  Right now, we are very sad along with everyone at the Rama de Andinismo and the University of Chile and all the friends at the ENAM in Chile.  A great friend and mountaineer has died.  We don't like sending such messages but consider it sent. 

Carlos Sanchez P. , Rama de Andinismo Universidad de Santiago de Chile

Update 3/1/2001: Pakistan Tourism Development Cooperation PTDC has decided to celebrate year 2002 as mountain year and coordinating with neighboring countries in promotion of this year all over the World. 

Regards, Asghar Ali Porik  JASMINE TOURS Department of Tourist Services License #333 2 Website: http://www.jasminetours.com

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